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How to build a woodie (Read 430943 times)

sdm

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#1350 Re: How to build a woodie
March 13, 2021, 12:42:42 pm
Likewise interested if you find any. All the resin holds now are in lovely ergonomic shapes and textures, where really I just want some ratty little horrible things.

Shame I'm so far away, I inherited holds from both Dave P, and another friend who took their wall down, some right ratty old school things among them.

Most rat like crimps i have are these https://www.outside.co.uk/bleaustone-training-range-symmetrics-set.html

the smallest of which i can can barely hold on my board - 26 deg, so for a wad should be ideal. The others are more incut

I have some of these on my 45 (not the full set).

The easiest ones are crimpy but very positive, can use them for biggish moves but have to pull hard. The more rounded ones (middle, second from bottom) make nice comfortable crimp/pinches. Some of them are quite positive but only for 2/3 fingers so have to hit them accurately or I'm off. The squarish ones (top left or middle right?) are properly ratty.

I'm not a fan of the 2 sided ones in the bottom right: they are awkward to use as handholds and too good for footholds. But the rest are good.

I also have these red crimps which are very ratty and basic.

I inherited them so don't know who made them but they could be just what you're after Bradders if anyone can identify them.

https://imgur.com/a/LmB8kjT

duncan

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#1351 Re: How to build a woodie
March 13, 2021, 12:47:57 pm
Discussion on holds for boards moved here.

RobK

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#1352 Re: How to build a woodie
March 18, 2021, 01:41:13 pm
I have a question about garage roofs. Exciting stuff!

We are looking at moving house and clearly the (OK, my) main priority is space for a bigger and better board. Found a few places with double garages that have a pitched roof. Most however seem to have horizontal joists that makes the space in the roof unusable in terms of building in a board. I presume these are preventing the roof trusses spreading and pushing the walls apart. My question is, does anyone know how big of a job it is to remove them so that the whole of the roof space is usable?

remus

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#1353 Re: How to build a woodie
March 18, 2021, 02:00:04 pm
I have a question about garage roofs. Exciting stuff!

We are looking at moving house and clearly the (OK, my) main priority is space for a bigger and better board. Found a few places with double garages that have a pitched roof. Most however seem to have horizontal joists that makes the space in the roof unusable in terms of building in a board. I presume these are preventing the roof trusses spreading and pushing the walls apart. My question is, does anyone know how big of a job it is to remove them so that the whole of the roof space is usable?

With the caveat that I've got no idea if it's sensible, we had a board in a double garage with a pitched roof that initially had steel roof trusses. We chopped out the horizontals on half of them, bolted 2x6s to the pitched sections and added some much smaller wooden horizontal braces close to the apex of the roof. That was 5 or so years ago and the garage hasn't fallen down yet. We only attached the board to the supporting wall so the load on (what remained of) the trusses probably wasn't too high.

My mate did most of it, think it took him a day or two? Didnt seem too much hassle, though he did hit himself in the face with the angle grinder and cut a good gash in his cheek so want to avoid doing that.

Paul B

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#1354 Re: How to build a woodie
March 18, 2021, 03:43:53 pm
Ideally Rob it sounds like you want a ridge beam installing. This isn't that expensive (in the scheme of house mods).

That was 5 or so years ago and the garage hasn't fallen down yet. We only attached the board to the supporting wall so the load on (what remained of) the trusses probably wasn't too high.

I see this mentality a lot at work. Perhaps your structure has acres of fat in it, but bear in mind the design of structures for things like wind loading look at return periods >>>5 years.

People like to bang on about over-design but they'd soon change their tune if everything suddenly went leaner than an 80s sport climber on diuretics.

RobK

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#1355 Re: How to build a woodie
March 18, 2021, 03:52:21 pm
Thanks Paul, had a quick Google and something like that looks just the ticket.

SA Chris

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#1356 Re: How to build a woodie
March 18, 2021, 03:55:30 pm
Paul, if you do something like remus will it need to be undone prior to home survey if you ever intend to sell?

Probes

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#1357 Re: How to build a woodie
March 19, 2021, 01:02:21 am
Hi Rob, I've just built a true ridge beam roof on a double garage. You'd be amazed how much(size) timber you need up compared to a standard trussed roof. As Paul says to convert an existing wouldn't be a huge expense, the roof would need ripping out and starting again, your probably looking at 3k materials plus labour. To try and mod an existing is asking for trouble. It only needs to smallest amount of movement onto the supporting walls to compromise them. Steel ridge is the way to go. I couldn't get one at the time, and big expense for the size and access so went for timber. Even after calcing and recalcing, and getting a second opinion, I decided to truss across the middle.for peace of mind.
Its made a cracking space in the loft for boards. Well worth the hassel. 
« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 01:32:41 am by Probes »

RobK

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#1358 Re: How to build a woodie
March 19, 2021, 09:23:57 am
Thanks Probes, great info. Sounds like that could be the way to go. Just need to find a house to go with the garage now!

Paul B

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#1359 Re: How to build a woodie
March 19, 2021, 11:14:57 am
Paul, if you do something like remus will it need to be undone prior to home survey if you ever intend to sell?

It's not really my area of expertise. Common sense would say yes, absolutely.

MischaHY

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#1360 Re: How to build a woodie
April 19, 2021, 02:33:42 pm
Having had a good read through the various threads on here in the weeks before doing my home build, I thought I'd post a picture of the result  :great: It's freestanding with a 45 degree overhang on the left and 30 degree on the right. The 45 is 3.2m*3m and the 30 is 2.6m*3.3m, not including kickboards.

All in all the build took around 7 days and cost just over €1k (not including holds). Managed to score the mats for free from a gym that was replacing them. Getting the 5m lengths of lumbar onto the third floor was possibly the most ridiculous part - we set up a haul rig and pulled them straight from the street through the second floor window and up through the attic entry  :weakbench:

Built it with a mate who had some carpentry experience on a smaller scale, whilst I had next to nothing. We did a fair bit of planning on paper and in CAD which helped immensely when finding a suitable concept - although it all changed a bit in the construction process!

Hope this provides suitable inspiration to anyone about to embark on the journey  ;D



Paul B

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#1361 Re: How to build a woodie
April 19, 2021, 03:58:06 pm
I don't think your photo works (both in terms of in your post, or just trying to access using the address):
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eeXInBua3g7BX7nFq2IXgAF4bcYw8oledxsIKZEU-sE6FJCMFpaLGEyi3HGAVD7j6TmyaH5clal6QPzGFD0k=w1920-h937-rw

MischaHY

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#1362 Re: How to build a woodie
April 20, 2021, 08:21:01 am
Ah, I think I hosted it on the work cloud so possibly not available publically. This should work:

tomtom

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#1363 Re: How to build a woodie
April 20, 2021, 08:35:45 am
Nice board mischa - and love the grain/pattern in the ply. Please don’t paint it!

dunnyg

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#1364 Re: How to build a woodie
April 20, 2021, 08:38:22 am
Are you going to put spotlights in the ceiling?

tomtom

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#1365 Re: How to build a woodie
April 20, 2021, 08:48:15 am
Are you going to put spotlights in the ceiling?

Possibly a worse infringement than using heels... 😂

SA Chris

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#1366 Re: How to build a woodie
April 20, 2021, 09:24:49 am
Ace looking board. Work on falling off accurately..

MischaHY

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#1367 Re: How to build a woodie
April 20, 2021, 09:41:30 am
Nice board mischa - and love the grain/pattern in the ply. Please don’t paint it!

Definitely not gonna be painting it! I love the grain.

Are you going to put spotlights in the ceiling?

Nah, I want the ceiling for holds (and hopefully cracks if it works out as planned) so doing two lights either side of the frame and then potentially running LED strips along the outside edges.

Ace looking board. Work on falling off accurately..

Yep! Slightly annoying to have to push the pads into position but free is free and it makes it easy to make space for core training/stretching etc.

dunnyg

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#1368 Re: How to build a woodie
April 20, 2021, 10:11:54 am
Good plan, looks great!

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#1369 Re: How to build a woodie
April 20, 2021, 10:50:53 am
Looks great - I move a mat around a bit as well and it is no hassle once you get used it.  Along with brushing holds etc it often helps force a bit of a rest between goes.  Looks a quality mat for free!

MischaHY

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#1370 Re: How to build a woodie
April 21, 2021, 10:24:50 am
Looks great - I move a mat around a bit as well and it is no hassle once you get used it.  Along with brushing holds etc it often helps force a bit of a rest between goes.  Looks a quality mat for free!

I was really lucky! My mate is a gym owner and got hold of it from another gym for me. Couldn't believe it when I saw it  ;D

SA Chris

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#1371 Re: How to build a woodie
April 21, 2021, 10:50:42 am
Anything is better than nothing. I've got old sofa cushions

tommytwotone

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#1372 Re: How to build a woodie
April 21, 2021, 10:59:37 am
Good potential for board to board jumps!

MischaHY

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#1373 Re: How to build a woodie
April 21, 2021, 12:27:37 pm
Good potential for board to board jumps!

Absolutely and also transitions from either side at a steep body angle.

Paul B

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#1374 Re: How to build a woodie
May 26, 2021, 04:51:35 pm
For all of you lot that like chopping holes in your roof joists etc.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-dorset-57253965

 

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