[Schmiken]

Wanted to say thanks for all the advice and help on this thread. I started building 10 weeks ago and this is what it's turned into...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBOgh45Hv76/?igshid=188c0wrl12oce

[JamieG]

That looks amazing. Good work.

[gme]

Nice.

[SA Chris]

https://www.wooden-balls.co.uk/index.php/cPath/55

Anyone used these for making holds? Any problems?

[sdm]

I used the half domes to make footholds after seeing how much cheaper they were than getting them from any of the hold companies.

No regrets on quality and no issues with the seller.

On the downside:

1) I bought them without any holes. With my basic tools, I had drilled holes in about 2 holds before I began to regret the decision not to pay someone else to drill them. If you've got a decent countersunk drill and a decent way of clamping them, doing it yourself is worth the saving.

2) I decided the domes in combination with my handholds were too hard and led to a snatchy climbing style and pushed me towards the easier handholds. I ended up stripping them, cutting, sanding (thankfully was able to borrow someone's workshop this time) and putting them back up to make them easier. This made the board much more versatile and allowed me to get more out of the hardest holds. I can always turn them upside down if I want to make them harder again.

[Nutty]

https://www.wooden-balls.co.uk/index.php/cPath/55

Anyone used these for making holds? Any problems?

Bought some half-balls off ebay for making footholds. No issues with them. I drilled/countersunk and treated them (they're on an external board) before sticking them up. I have a mix of the wooden domes and small edges for footholds, tend to use the domes to make easier problems harder. Haven't used any balls for making handholds if that's what you're after.

[SA Chris]

Yeah, was thinking about some bigger ones to make dome / sphere shaped holds. I've not got a lot of big slopers, and not a lot of room to put many up (any that are available seem to be pretty big and expensive) and looking for skin friendly alternatives. I have access to a vice, decent drill, power plane. Will be used indoors.

I've got some old feet off a sofa that work fine, but get very slippery if at all humid (they are stained and polished).

[highrepute]

I've bought 6 of these in the 75mm diameter a few years ago. You can see the holds I made in this video



I sawed a bit off the ball so I had a flat bit to go against the wall. They're quite good. I've had them on the board (40 and 45 degrees) for a few years and use them regularly. However, I only ever made two holds from the six I bought. The reason for this is that when holding the hold the curve of them makes my fingers spread out (knuckles not touching - can see this in the video) and this felt a little bit injurious.

So i'd say go for it. 75 mm diameter usable but larger probably better.

[SA Chris]

cheers, I went for 120mm

[highrepute]

cheers, I went for 120mm

Let us know how they work out.

[SA Chris]

Will do. I ended up getting a mate who has some of those wooden domes on his campusboard to size his and they measure 12cm. I got 6, probably more than i need.

[SA Chris]

Got first one sawn in half and mounted. It's dead smooth and an absolute bastard to pull onto, I can barely get my arse of the ground with big footholds, just what I need i think! Tempted to roughen up surface a bit so i can actually move off them.

[James Malloch]

We're in the process of buying a house but it's going to be a bit of a drive to the nearest wall now. I'm used to a 10 minute walk to City Bloc / 15 mins drive to the Depot...

I think the attic would take a board but I'm unsure how we would go about estimating the strength of things.

In our old student house we basically just drilled into the roof beams (image number 108 on the beastmaker site: https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/your-setup) but this would be an older house (c.1900) and as it's ours I'm more reluctant to put stress in the roof.

Like our old one, the new house has real big horizontal beams, but seems to have thinner pieces of wood that make up the actual roof. It needs boarding out anyway so if we get a good enough space we might just be able to build something free-standing.

Any thoughts on this kind of thing would be appreciated!

[SA Chris]

Spread the load and you should be OK! The balance between steepness to maximise surface area and the corresponding extra load on the roof trusses needs to be right.

I think the "thinner pieces" are battens, and won't bear any load at all.

[wasbeen]

I would be less worried about the roof beams than the floor joists. Assuming you attach the board across a few roof beams you will be spreading the load over a pretty large area. The weight of the climbing wall and you will be pretty small compared to the weight of the roof and tiles. In addition, there will not be any significant dynamic forces. If you are still worried you can double up the roof timbers in the area of the climbing wall similar to what you might do when installing a Velux.

...now the floor is a different matter. The floor beams are designed for supporting the ceiling below and not you from above. The dynamic load of you falling will apply a high force over a relatively small area.

Ideally you need to install a sub-floor in the area of the climbing wall. If headroom permit you can install 6x2 (or better still 8x2) timbers perpendicular to the existing ceiling joists, spanning to structural walls. If headroom is tight then they could run the timbers alongside the existing ceiling timbers, again spanning to a structural wall. An alternative bodge job would be to screw a couple of layers of ply 18mm ply on top of the existing ceiling joists – this will spread the load over a greater number of joists.

[erm, sam]

I built an A frame from the perlings (or what ever they are called: very large bits on wood the roof rests on) up to the apex so it is sort of independent of the roof. The A frame joins at the roof beam at the top but doesn't put much load on it.. I would post an image but I can't be aresed with putting one on the internet and linking etc. If you wanted to PM your phone number I could text them. Shite though they are.

I did also reinforce the floor in order to board it out etc

[Lopez]

If anyone is interested, the Peterborough Climbing Wall is shutting down and selling everything ridiculously cheap.

UKC link https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/for_sale+wanted/climbing_wall_closing_down_sale_of_everything-723854

[James Malloch]

Thanks for the responses regarding the attic board. It sounds like the flooring will be the main obstacle to overcome so I’ll get that checked when we get in providing everything goes to plan.

I was planning to board it out somewhat with the potential to create an extra room in the future so getting a proper floor put in at the beginning is probably sensible anyway.

[James Malloch]

Nearly finished - bar the kicker, foot holds and some wooden holds on order.

It’s 50 lower 54 upper section. 3m board length 1.2m wide. Went for 20cm across and 40 cm vertical for Bolt on spacing for now (I’ve only 40 holds). Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions. Only been up once so far (screw on feet hopefully tomorrow) but climbs really well hard - but not impossible (with the big feet holds).

Feels great to be moving again rather than hanging.

I wondered what your approx footprint of the board is? I'm guessing approx 200x120cm based on the above?

We're due to get a house in November and I'm hoping to put a board in. Think we'd need to get the attic fully done (new purlins etc) to put it up in the attic so I'm wondering about the possibility of making a freestanding one in the room I intent to use as an office. I think I could just about fit a board of that size and desk in there. Happens to be the perfect size to put my big organic pad down for as well...

I wondered how you've got on with it too. Is it just okay for trying harder problems or have you found that you can link a decent number of moves together on it? I'll probably be starting to climb more again after an injury by November so probably want some easier problems to start with.

We're going to be an hour (at rush hour) drive from the nearest wall so I'm definitely going to want to put something up...

[tomtom]

I wondered what your approx footprint of the board is? I'm guessing approx 200x120cm based on the above?

We're due to get a house in November and I'm hoping to put a board in. Think we'd need to get the attic fully done (new purlins etc) to put it up in the attic so I'm wondering about the possibility of making a freestanding one in the room I intent to use as an office. I think I could just about fit a board of that size and desk in there. Happens to be the perfect size to put my big organic pad down for as well...

I wondered how you've got on with it too. Is it just okay for trying harder problems or have you found that you can link a decent number of moves together on it? I'll probably be starting to climb more again after an injury by November so probably want some easier problems to start with.

We're going to be an hour (at rush hour) drive from the nearest wall so I'm definitely going to want to put something up...

With some room either side - its width is about 140-160 (10-20cm gap either side) and about 200-210 cm. It ended up being 53-54 degrees for the main part, and 50 for the bottom third.

Its brutal - but superb. At first I had some bolt on resin holds that were very positive but a bit tweaky and narrow (designed for kids) that I climbed with jenga blocks for feet. Then I got a load of wooden holds (a mix from Pete W, Rick Ginns and Crusher) this changed how it climbed dramatically. Much harder - and I now use my resin bolt ons for feet and wood for hands. I warm up for 5-10 min on a fingerboard first - and then have some warm ups on large wooden blobs that I can now use as a circuit for as many moves as I like (good for core on 50+ degrees!).

For the main climbing - its typically 3-4 moves to the top ranging from crimp ladder to high foot rockovers, sidepulls and gaston/press moves. Its mirrored (ish - some of the holds are different but similar) which on a small board is quite good for isolating some weaknesses. I still find the first 'easier' problems I did on it hard and quite regularly fail on them (especially if a little tired) which means I've got the board set up right for me. Hand holds are pinches, incut rat crimps (great on a 50) and flat one pad edges - that are not really incut enough for the board so they are like generous 1 pad slopers!! That really works your half crimp!! If it gets too easy - I can just make the footholds smaller/less grippy and it will climb very differently. I'm normally done in after 45-60 min on it tbh... its quite intense.

I don't find the lack of climbing distance (its more out than height at 50+!) an issue for me and there is plenty of scope to add another move at the bottom (lower sit) or move at the top (move to another crimp for example instead of the thank god jugs). But - at that angle, if you use a sidepull (and less so gaston) then you have to use it in a - er compression style and flick up from it - rather than stick out a wide foot and yard off it. And thats because its just not wide enough. Think I'd need at least 2m wide to make that kind of move work. 6 months (ish) on and I still use it at least twice a week (maybe a teeny bit less if I can get outside) and I'm far from bored/exhausted of it.

[James Malloch]

Cheers Tom - that's really useful. I hadn't factored in the space either side which could cause it to be very tight.. I guess that it would only need it on the wall side though which could work. Failing that something which can be pulled out from the wall a little when in use. Good to hear you can do some kinds of circuits too. I guess they might be a little more boring than a bigger board but useful nonetheless.

Really psyched to get one - I just hope that the house goes through!

[bolehillbilly]

Okay, so I've had a read through the thread but need a bit of shed specific knowledge that I didn't spot on my breeze through the 45 pages.
I've bought a 12×8 shed for £120. Needs a bit of general tlc, door moving into gable end, new opening window(s) fitting also going to raise the height to the 8ft max on planning rules.
Going to build a board, also want to have the option to use for bike rollers, weights and potentially a bit of occasional workspace.
All seems manageable but getting conflicting views on insulation.
Have seen plenty online about lining inside with a breathable membrane, then a fibre or board insulation layer followed by a skin of ply or cheaper board.
Have also heard folk say this traps damp against the ship lap and causes damp/rot issues.
The timber is treated but I've treated it myself inside and out with wood preserver since I picked it up.
Ideally I want to insulate it, as much for heat in summer as winter cold. I'm getting a mains power supply so a fan and or door and windows open should be okay for the board if its warm?
Anyone got any experience or advice on insulation?
Cheers.

[Fultonius]

No point insulating if you're not heating, and if you're heating it might still not be worth insulating if you're just going to heat while climbing if it's cold. I.e. Insulation just slows the rate of cooling between the interior and exterior, so if you're not heating, or infrequently heating, it's pretty pointless.

[galpinos]

Finished my board over a week ago and am loving it. The ability to just get a quick hour session on it at any time is a game changer. Had 6 sessions in it already. Can’t believe I have put off doing it for years.
Dave mc was right about having everything on your doorstep makes it so much easier to train.
New moon holds are superb and I always liked the yellows. Top rows are now all filled with beautiful hard wood holds thanks to Will Smith.
Having built dozens of these things in the 80s and 90s I enjoyed every minute.
Took about 25 hours on my own and cost 1200 all in. Storage was worth the extra work.
Bring on the autumn.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAQOkMDDk97/?igshid=13x7031tj29um

gme, what's your opinion of the "Mini Moon Extra" that you've built? Still enjoying it? I am torn between a mini moon with a couple of extras row as per your set up or just that size board with my own setting.

[kac]

I'm looking to add an attachment to the top of my woodie so I can add some rings. I'm guessing the easiest way is to get a couple of bolt hangers in which case any suggestions for what I need to attach them to the ply. Also is eBay the best place to get a couple of cheap hangers?