[webbo]

That’s a work of art. However it looks a bit chalkless.

[SA Chris]

Looks far too fucking robust for my liking. Good job gme.

[Duma]

That looks great Gav, nice work. New holds looks so much better than old ones!

[gme]

That’s a work of art. However it looks a bit chalkless.

Photo was taken just after holds went on. The footholds are not even on if you look.

[dunnyg]

Cheers for the advice on outdoor woodies. I might save it for the winter and stick with the fingerboard for now. I'm likely to be unemployed in the very near future so it will have to go to the bottom of the list - I'll hopefully be out on rock again in the the next month or so, in which case a board will be redundant (ish).

[Paul B]

Photo was taken just after holds went on. The footholds are not even on if you look.

Any chance of another now it's finished? It's the first mini-Moon board I've seen.

I should probably say that I have no opinions of the mini Moon board, new holds etc.

[SA Chris]

The footholds are not even on if you look.

Was going to say, the holds lying on the ground look a bit dabby.

[galpinos]

Planning permission has been granted for a climbing wall in the "garden room" as part of it's renovation*. Looking at Gav's mini moonboard plus has got me salivating.

Has anyone used a mini moon bar Gav? Are they any good? Would I be better just building my own board?

*Space requirements for storage behind the board, lots of gym matts for the girls do play around and bike/garden equipment storage plus a combined mini wildflower meadow/veg patch on the roof. This will not be a small project!

[Will Hunt]

Personally, I would focus less on building a Moon or a Mini-Moon or whatever, and just build the biggest board that you can fit within the space (accounting for any other demands on the space like storage etc). It might be that it meets the dimensions of a Moon/Mini Moon, but if you can build bigger then do so. Arguably, Gav's thing could be wider, but then maybe he wouldn't fit in the bench pressing thing that appears to be there on the left.

[mrjonathanr]

Planning permission has been granted for a climbing wall in the "garden room" as part of it's renovation*. Looking at Gav's mini moonboard plus has got me salivating.

Has anyone used a mini moon bar Gav?

A mini Moon bar would indeed be a salivating prospect. I'll have a Jerry and Tonic and a Double Steve Mac to go please.

[gme]

Personally, I would focus less on building a Moon or a Mini-Moon or whatever, and just build the biggest board that you can fit within the space (accounting for any other demands on the space like storage etc). It might be that it meets the dimensions of a Moon/Mini Moon, but if you can build bigger then do so. Arguably, Gav's thing could be wider, but then maybe he wouldn't fit in the bench pressing thing that appears to be there on the left.

I could have build something wider but i dont think its necessary, unless you want a traverse/circuit board. Always easy to make things 8/12/16 ft due to plywood sizing and i dont think having it 12 ft wide, which would have fit, would be any better. If i had 16ft of space i would have built two 8 ft wide boards at different angles.

I went down the moonboard route due to the ability to share problems and the use ability of the App not because i think they are the best. I climb on my own up here and it will not get used by many others so nice to have other peoples problems to try, one the mini version gets going that is, i believe there are a good number ordered already though.

The minimoonboard bit is great to climb on but i must admit the extra 3 rows i have outside of the standard grid make it a lot better. As always extra height on a board is the most important thing.

[SA Chris]

Agree one "ply width" is a good size to work on for one angle, gives you enough width for up, sideways and up, diagonal or circuit problems.

If i ever expand mine I'll do the same again, but definitely a different angle, probably steeper, but unlikely to bother, as it took forever to get the first bit done.

[mrjonathanr]

Mine is 40* inclined, 7' wide by 9'4" high, but then has a 4" soffit (the 2x4 strut the top of the board rests on) and another 8" of board to provide a line of finishing holds. So effectively 7'x10' with a steepening on the last move. 10" kickboard.

Another foot or two would be great but that length allows for problems between 3-8 moves so it works well. The holds don't follow a pattern, just varied, mix of resin and wood, and I keep adjusting and tweaking so it gets better over time.

hopefully I'll be uninjured at some point...

[tomtom]

One thing I didn’t realise from mine - was that the steeper it is the wider it has to be to use sidepulls and presses.

[SA Chris]

if you are weak that's true..

[CrimpyMcCrimpface]

Managed to build a mini woodie in my basement using only scrap wood found in skips, plus some footholds I bought about 7 years ago. Likely to be the least attractive board you'll ever see. Always wanted to have a board but never wanted to spend so much on all the wood and holds when the local walls have so much more space. Seems like everyone wanted to throw out 18mm ply and 2m 2x3 during the lockdown. One mans rubbish is another mans treasure...


Grubbiest basement in Sheffield award.. Planning to extend this leftward once I've installed a light in front of the board and have build more holds. For now I set it in system board fashion just because I always liked the idea of not claiming any board problem unless you can climb it both ways. Blue wood at the top and holds are from the For Sale sign of the house.


Set at the angle of whatever the wood I had would fit between the roof and the floor. Cut some of the scrap door casing to stabilise the seams in the gaps. I wanted to drill into the floor but the old DeWalt couldn't take it so all force is going into the joists. Decided not to add a kicker just for the reason I thought the angle was sufficient.


Thanks to this thread for the inspiration on holds



More hold photos here https://imgur.com/gallery/psapxPn and some pics of the scrap used. Pretty happy with how it turned out considering it cost only screws and whatever I paid for the footholds. Just takes a bit of time to make holds but its not so bad if you make a set before a session. Some of the holds are actually too positive so next on the list is to make some really diabolical ones

[tomtom]

Excellent!

[Nibile]

Well done. With age and experience I've found that the smallest of boards is still an excellent tool for the dedicated. In fact, I plan to build a micro portable one to be put in the garage at a less steep angle than the other one, to train for my other board circuit. Yes, you've read it right.
On a side and pedant note, I feel compelled to specify that system boards and symmetric boards are different.
Crimpy's one is a symmetric but not a system one.
 
Get in!

[mrjonathanr]

looks like you could extend it a bit by fixing some slopey finishing holds onto the blue top beam the board is fixed to?

[JamieG]

Love the ghetto board. Definitely for the hardcore enthusiast only. 

Just to reassure you a lot of the load will still be onto the floor even if you couldn't drill into it, rather than just the joists. Especially the vertical load. Your only issue might be if the horizontal load is quite large and cause the base to slip, but i'd imagine the friction between the wood of the concrete(?) floor is pretty large, especially one you are actually on the board. However, to avoid this you could put some brace pieces of wood between the back wall and the horizontal piece on the floor which will stop it sliding backwards. Doesn't even need to be screwed in as long as they are a snug fit.

[SA Chris]

Looks good. If you want to get a load of holds on quick, worth getting a broom handle to screw on. I've used an old curtain rod that was lying about and it works well.

[CrimpyMcCrimpface]

Thanks! Yeah definitely very ghetto, no chance of getting mrs crimpy on this one haha.

I was thinking to add a roof section and run it up the stairs like Alain Robert's bedroom one day. In the meantime the sloping holds idea probably way better for the joints that grabbing for that edge as I do currently.

Thanks for the suggestions for the base of the frame. Overall its been really sturdy but it has 'jumped' a couple of times so a couple of planks between the wall will definitely help. You'll see the floor isn't flat and I had to put an extra piece of scrap under it too.

On a side and pedant note, I feel compelled to specify that system boards and symmetric boards are different.
Crimpy's one is a symmetric but not a system one.
 

Oh nice, what's the difference?

[Bradders]

That's really impressive all from scrap. Nice one.

[Nibile]

Oh nice, what's the difference?

Hey!
A system board (or part of a board) is made to replicate the same move or prehension. I think it was developed first by the Huber brothers (they had some kind of weird board in their bedroom, I believe; I read it somewhere ages ago, it might be an old Desnivel issue, mid nineties or so).
For instance, a series of underclings or gastons, etc.
A symmetric board is a board with symmetric (random) holds on, so that every problem has a mirror-like twin.
I'd say that in general system boards are also symmetric, because you want to replicate the move or prehension for both sides.
 

[gme]

A system board was invented to suck every ounce of enjoyment out of board climbing whilst a symmetric board is designed to double the fun.