[tomtom]

And no pockets.

[JamieG]

Had my first session on the my new woodie. The pysche is out of control! So nice to do some moves again. Feel like a kid on Christmas eve. 

[Duma]

Nice! I'm so pleased with mine - trying to hold myself to every other day...

[rginns]

Don't use a kick board Rick. Do you know anyone to make you some holds?

 

[SA Chris]

Nice! I'm so pleased with mine - trying to hold myself to every other day...

Likewise! And stop by 11:15..

[Simon W]

Late to the lockdown party now the Lime has been called I know but planning to put a board in my cellar.

Pretty standard Sheffield terrace, only got 1.8m of cellar height to play with.

Rough dimensions
Length 3m
Width 2.3m
Kickboard 20cms
Angle 55ish

At the early planning stages of clearing out the cellar and getting some more air in right now. Reeve how did you get on with this, is yours looking any drier? Mine not too bad so hoping a clear out and a couple of additional air bricks will sort it.

This will be my first board and I'm not particulalry DIY savvy so reading through all of these pages has been very helpful.

Due to tight access on the cellar steps I'm going to have to get my ply cut in two so that it fits, timber shouldn't need cutting. Probably won't be at the buying ply stage for a few more weeks and by then hoping more places will be open. Can anyone recommend somewhere in Sheffield that sells good ply and will cut it to order? Hoping to manage this whole process without buying too many power tools myself.

Planning on using 2x4 for the frame, on its side for strength and stability as mentioned somewhere on here. As each length of ply will be in two pieces I'll be screwing both sheets into the the same piece of timber in the middle. Is it likely that trying fit so many screws into one length of 2x4 is going to split it? Was thinking I could double up on timber in the middle to avoid this if likely to be an issue.

The other question I have is around anchoring. I can attach it to brick at the base. The top of the board will be parallel to the floor joists above so hoping to jam it in there and attach somehow. Any pointers on the best way to be attaching into brick at bottom and wood at top. I have a decent power drill.

Finally, if the frame is solid will only attaching at either end be sufficient or is it likely I'll need to put further support in between the frame and other floor joists above? Thinking this might be a good call anyway so that one floor joist isn't taking too much weight. If so again an advice on how to do this?

Any input much appreciated.

[SA Chris]

I attached mine to joists above using 2 L brackets with a load of long screws up into the joists, and a coach bolt through the uprights. I got the longest screws I could find, which werre actually too long, and wouldn't go all the way in, so don't overdo it.

What is the floor made of? I attached L brackets to the wall for the other supports, but i think breezeblock is a bit better for rawlsbolts than clay brick.

[tomtom]

Mine are those dimensions - but only 1.2m wide.

I'd say at that angle make it as wide as you can... I know mine is narrow - but the steeper it is the more width you need if you want to use any sidepulls/feet out wide. Otherwise everything is very front on.

Also at that angle - even with a few large holds, I still have to use the fingerboard to warm up before I can do the warm ups on the board :D

[Simon W]

I attached mine to joists above using 2 L brackets with a load of long screws up into the joists, and a coach bolt through the uprights. I got the longest screws I could find, which werre actually too long, and wouldn't go all the way in, so don't overdo it.

Was that just at the end of the board Chris or did you also support from other sections of the frame up into other joists? Sorry my non DIY mind is struggle to picture how you did the coach bolts, was this through the end of the upright where it meets the joist and then all the way through the joist?

What is the floor made of? I attached L brackets to the wall for the other supports, but i think breezeblock is a bit better for rawlsbolts than clay brick.

Think floor is made of concrete but wasn't planing to anchor to it in anyway. Was to make a 2x4 frame for the kick board, rest this on the floor and then attach to brick wall then rest the bottom of the board on top of this and also anchor that into bricks somehow.

[Simon W]

Mine are those dimensions - but only 1.2m wide.

I'd say at that angle make it as wide as you can... I know mine is narrow - but the steeper it is the more width you need if you want to use any sidepulls/feet out wide. Otherwise everything is very front on.

Also at that angle - even with a few large holds, I still have to use the fingerboard to warm up before I can do the warm ups on the board :D

Can't really make it any wider, maybe stretch another 10cms but that would be the max. Another option is to lessen the angle and attach to the next joist in but at the expense of length so prob keep it as planned.

Yeah, expecting my warm ups to be longer than my sessions at that angle. Might ask next door if i can knock through for the warm up board 

[Simon W]

Thanks for the replies btw 

[JamieG]

Planning on using 2x4 for the frame, on its side for strength and stability as mentioned somewhere on here. As each length of ply will be in two pieces I'll be screwing both sheets into the the same piece of timber in the middle. Is it likely that trying fit so many screws into one length of 2x4 is going to split it? Was thinking I could double up on timber in the middle to avoid this if likely to be an issue.

I turned the piece where the plywood joined through 90 degrees so that screws had more room. I.e. normally you want the narrow side of the struts towards the plywood since this is stronger/stiffer, but on that one piece I made an exception so that I had more room for the plywood screws. I don't think you want screws too close to the edge of the plywood since they might split or delaminate the ply, so more space is helpful.

But two timbers close together would also work.

[tomtom]

The ply seems tough as... I thought I'd need more screws holding it to the 'joists' - but I've one every 40cm or so and it seems rock solid... (waits for Paul B to quote some engineering figures at me :D )

[JamieG]

That sounds similar to me. My screws are about every foot around the outside of the plywood and a bit less in the middle. Well I think they're still about a foot apart horizontally but every 2ft vertically. I used pretty meaty m6 screws too and it feels absolutely solid.

[Simon W]

Thanks, that all sounds promising, hoping to build something sturdy

[dunnyg]

I've perused this thread a few times, along with various other web sources.

I'm trying to work out the cheapest way I can build a decent sized all weather board in the garden. I've looked into getting a shed to stick it in, but it ends up costing upwards of 2k for the shed (at best) before you even start forking out for the all the wall stuff.

Has anyone built an all-weather outdoor wall and got any tips? Is it a pipe dream?
I'm also curious if wooden holds are holding up on these outdoor walls, I imagine they disintegrate after a winter or 2?

[Duma]

Dan23584 on here has one in his garden, think he boxed in the back and felted it:
https://instagram.com/danstep_55?igshid=1sv8508n01z70

Not sure it's all weather but he certainly seems to use it in light rain

[mrjonathanr]

Thanks to Rick Ginns whose beautifully crafted oak crimps arrived today.

Still undecided whether to put them on the board where I can use them some of the time, or arrange them on the mantelpiece where I admire them all the time...

[Bradders]

Has anyone built an all-weather outdoor wall and got any tips? Is it a pipe dream?

No definitely not. Mine's outside and has held up fine over the last two months. Have climbed on it during a downpour and in strong winds. I just have a big tarpaulin which I've attached to the top and then I tie it to a fence in front of the board to act as a roof, then an extra tarp cut to size which goes on the sides. Keeps the rain and wind out fine, even if it's heavy (although admittedly it's not been tested by a proper stretch of bad weather yet of course). In the wind it's a bit like climbing in a tent but doesn't bother me (and tarp keeps the wind off too).

Can't answer your hold question other than to say I hope not! I think the key is just keeping them dry and out of the sun to avoid weathering/rot. My tarp doubles as a cover over the front of the board when not in use so keeps everything nice and sheltered. Time will tell though.

[Steve R]

Has anyone built an all-weather outdoor wall and got any tips? Is it a pipe dream?
I'm also curious if wooden holds are holding up on these outdoor walls, I imagine they disintegrate after a winter or 2?

Built a very cheap (sub £100) outdoor 8'x8' board in a day a few weeks ago - more 'how not to be build a woody' but it'll last a fair while and have successfully had a session on it in the rain.  As Bradders said, as long as the holds aren't getting wet or blasted with sun no reason they'll deteriorate any more quickly than indoor setting.  The structure of the one I built is integrated with a tree but whilst making it, it occurred to me that if the wall was going to be freestanding, then a sort of tunnel design might work quite well.  eg steep 40/45 degree one side, short (just off) horizontal roof at the top and less steep 25 ish or whatever on the opposite side.  Quite easy to make it solid and you have a structure which is easy to weather proof with roofing sheets or felt.  Would need 'curtains' of some sort down the sides to stop rain getting blown in.  Or possibly more substantial doors down the side that you'd usually fold out of the way when you wanted to use it - could then be relatively secure too so could potentially store pads, bikes, etc. in there. just one idea.

[SA Chris]

Have a look on Home Climbing Wall Forum on Facebook. Loads of ideas like that on there.

[tomtom]

Steve - Love how your design goes from a 100 tree mounted board to a freestanding climbing tunnel with bifolds 😂

[JamieG]

Complete with all the holds on. Well all the holds so far. More room for additions. Can see how squint the ceiling is!

[reeve]

At the early planning stages of clearing out the cellar and getting some more air in right now. Reeve how did you get on with this, is yours looking any drier? Mine not too bad so hoping a clear out and a couple of additional air bricks will sort it.

Sorry Simon only just spotted this. With the dearth of rain we've had it's quite hard to say really. The cellar is certainly a much nicer environment now we've cleaned all the damp coal dust off floor, but I think the biggest change is from some polythene sheeting covering every inch of the floor. I would only have considered the brick floor to be slightly moist previously, but with the amount of condensation forming under the polythene I guess it was actually quite damp! Not bothered with a dehumidifier yet. In six months time when we are at the end of autumn I might change my mind 🙂

If your cellar brick work is damp you might want to avoid anchoring it to them though. Ours is completely free standing. I can send pictures (is it isn't too late!)

[gme]

Finished my board over a week ago and am loving it. The ability to just get a quick hour session on it at any time is a game changer. Had 6 sessions in it already. Can’t believe I have put off doing it for years.
Dave mc was right about having everything on your doorstep makes it so much easier to train.
New moon holds are superb and I always liked the yellows. Top rows are now all filled with beautiful hard wood holds thanks to Will Smith.
Having built dozens of these things in the 80s and 90s I enjoyed every minute.
Took about 25 hours on my own and cost 1200 all in. Storage was worth the extra work.
Bring on the autumn.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAQOkMDDk97/?igshid=13x7031tj29um