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How to build a woodie (Read 430958 times)

mark20

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#700 Re: How to build a woodie
April 04, 2020, 12:24:38 am
My board (freestanding) was wobbly as fuck until the ply went on - in which case I'd recommend 2x8
But if you've got a solid structure straight into the joists in the cellar 4x4 will be fine I'd expect

tomtom

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#701 Re: How to build a woodie
April 05, 2020, 06:04:32 pm
What’s people’s thoughts on hold hole spacing? 20cm about right?

Will Hunt

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#702 Re: How to build a woodie
April 05, 2020, 06:23:22 pm
20 is fine. Depending on your circumstances you may be able to do narrower. Have a look at how many holds you've got (I think I saw a photo on Facebook) and check whether 20 spacing will give you enough holes to put all your holds on. Consider whether you might buy more holds. I've got one set of moon bolt ins and some mini jugs and everything else is screw ins. Having 20cm spacing gives you room between bolted holds to add screw ins. So if you're not getting any more holds you don't have to consider that.

But. Don't underestimate how many holds you need and how varied they need to be to achieve a good set up. And you will always want to add more and more holds.

tomtom

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#703 Re: How to build a woodie
April 05, 2020, 06:33:47 pm
You misunderstand Will -  I’ll easily have fewer holds than holes... glad 20 seems sensible...

I don’t want to cheeseboard the thing - but don’t want to have too few.

Diagonal offset or regular grid....  hmm...

Will Hunt

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#704 Re: How to build a woodie
April 05, 2020, 06:37:06 pm
I wondered about that for a while and then decided it didn't matter. I think in hindsight I'd go for diamond. It will make the climbing a bit more varied. If it's all in a square grid then it reduces the scope for how long you'll make moves a bit.

Davo

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#705 Re: How to build a woodie
April 05, 2020, 06:47:24 pm
Think mine are about 20cm spacing. Went for diagonal offset. Seems to work, not sure it matters to be honest. Am in agreement with having lots of potential for adding more holds, as this keeps things varied and motivating. Main thing for me was to build it quickly before my dislike of diy got the better of me.

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#706 Re: How to build a woodie
April 05, 2020, 09:04:05 pm
I take you guys are all just planning on making holds? I'm considering a woodie setup soon, if I get all the other DIY jobs done first.

Nutty

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#707 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 08:19:24 am
20cm regular grid on mine, with some screw-ons filling in the gaps.

SA Chris

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#708 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 09:51:39 am
I was going to go for diamond offset, but was given boards with square and it works fine.

Fultonius, yes. My favourite set of holds are the 4 round feet off an old sofa. Skin friendly, tendon friendly, but a pig to hold. Once I get the hang of using them I'll reverse so they are a tad harder.

remus

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#709 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 11:03:43 am
Depends how often you plan on resetting and how precious you are about your holds but personally I wouldn't bother with t nuts. I just screw the holds on, either with a washer + screw through the bolt hole and a pin screw, or if you're feeling a bit dirty then by smashing 2 screws through the bolt hole.

Saves the effort of drilling holes and installing t nuts, plus there's no risk of spinning t nuts. If you're resetting a lot then you'll put more holes in the ply but personally I can't be bothered resetting that often.

JJP

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#710 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 11:13:59 am
I have a mix of T-nuts and screw ons but board is now majority screw ons.  Found the T-nuts a bit limiting but have a larger hold circuit round the outside using T-nuts and symmetrical central bit that is all screw ons.  If you are putting in T-nuts other decision is whether to have them symmetrical or not - likely depends on holds.   

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#711 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 11:19:42 am
I got my board second hand with about 55 bolt on Bleaustone holds and a bunch of screw ons. There are also a bunch of unused t-nut holes. I've since added a lot (~150) more screw ons and have drilled 2 extra t-nut holes to move bolt on holds.

The bolt on holds are useful for warmups, circuits and easier problems (wooden jugs would be just as good for this). But very few of my hard problems use any bolt ons and resin holds are so much worse on the skin so most of my problems are all on the wooden screw ons. Screw ons are also much more versatile for positioning.

If you've already got some bolt on holds, go ahead with the t-nutting but if I was starting from scratch, there is no way I would be bothering with bolt ons and t-nuts.

Paul B

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#712 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 12:18:12 pm
Saves the effort of drilling holes and installing t nuts, plus there's no risk of spinning t nuts. If you're resetting a lot then you'll put more holes in the ply but personally I can't be bothered resetting that often.

Just buy the type that pin with small dia. screws (from CORE) or staple across two of the spurs?

Personally I wouldn't be comfortable with larger holds pinned dirty-euro. The likes of BUK have drilled out their old-skool EP holds to take many screws which itself seems like a lot of effort (obviously less so when compared with t-nutting an entire wall).

Plywood has a 'correct' orientation and that's usually face grain parallel to the span. When you're using it for concrete shuttering it generally spans between horizontal rails, which themselves span between vertical 'soldiers' (i.e. 1-way spanning). With typical boards you've got noggins usually rather than rails, so personally, I'd be orientating it 'strongways' in the direction where the span is the greatest (i.e. C/C of the noggins vs. the C/C of your Vt aligned timbers). It's unlikely to be critical when building a home board but it will deflect less (again, I wouldn't want to have everything fixed dirty-euro with constant large deflections).

I have to say I'm seeing some pretty dodgy home setups being thrown up. People should really consider what might happen on a windy day; recent storms absolutely trashed many construction sites' hoardings and it's incredibly common for site agents to think hoardings are over-designed!

SA Chris

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#713 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 12:34:08 pm

Plywood has a 'correct' orientation and that's usually face grain parallel to the span. When you're using it for concrete shuttering it generally spans between horizontal rails, which themselves span between vertical 'soldiers' (i.e. 1-way spanning). With typical boards you've got noggins usually rather than rails, so personally, I'd be orientating it 'strongways' in the direction where the span is the greatest (i.e. C/C of the noggins vs. the C/C of your Vt aligned timbers). It's unlikely to be critical when building a home board but it will deflect less (again, I wouldn't want to have everything fixed dirty-euro with constant large deflections).

Terminology overload!!!

tomtom

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#714 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 12:38:28 pm
Thanks. All good advice. Waiting for some big screws to properly screw it to the rafters. But at the moment my hold plans are:

Board area 1.2 by 3m. 53-55 degrees.

I’ve got 40 resin bolt ons (no jugs in them). All positive but smallish (largest 3-4 fingers).

Make/buy 10-12 large wooden holds - some jugs couple of pinches etc..

Got some jenga bricks for feet - but these may be too small except for kickboard - so May use the resin bolt ons for feet etc..

Symmetrical or not... probably not is my thinking. Esp with the limited width.

Just musing over it now. Was hoping to do some drilling - but the toddler is more interested in Lego than dads power tools... 

Paul B

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#715 Re: How to build a woodie
April 06, 2020, 12:58:45 pm
Terminology overload!!!

Summary: deflects less if put in the 'correct' way. 'Correct' way is dependent on the ply but usually parallel to the span. Do this on the largest spanning direction.

Walls which have plywood aligned at 45 deg. are form over function even if it does look VERY pretty.

jwills

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#716 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 10:50:58 am
What's everyone's thoughts on symmetrical hold setup vs the spray wall? Considering the symmetrical setup for my woodie. 

Nutty

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#717 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 11:22:17 am
I went with symmetrical on mine. Pros are that when you make up a problem you get 2-for-1 and work both sides of the body equally if you're strict on always doing both versions of a problem. Downsides are that there's a narrower choice of holds available if buying and increased difficulty of making symmetrical holds if not sticking to basic shapes.

SA Chris

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#718 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 11:25:45 am
Could do a bit of both? I've got some symmetrical and a some not, depending on hold availability.

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#719 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 01:28:24 pm
What's everyone's thoughts on symmetrical hold setup vs the spray wall? Considering the symmetrical setup for my woodie.

I've done both over the years and found a mix of the two seems best for me as it gives you the option for mirrored problems. i found the creativity of a problems om a symmetrical board hard but they do look perdy.

Liamhutch89

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#720 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 01:43:46 pm
Assuming a splatter board has an adequate selection of holds, then with a bit of careful setting you'd expect the usage of limbs to average out over time? I think being compelled to complete every problem on both sides would become tedious for me. I've never used a symmetrical board in earnest however.

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#721 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 02:19:20 pm
Personally I go for a splatter. Maybe Im missing something, but I'm not convinced that aiming to be symmetrically strong is particularly beneficial (barring serious asymmetry e.g. while rehabbing an injury).

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#722 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 04:04:27 pm
Personally I quite like the symmetrical set up but do now have a mix (spray round outside).

I didn`t have any experience setting and initially had holds sprayed on but found the setting pretty difficult/ slow.  So I switched to symmetrical and found it easier to set (can get images of other boards online and emulate).  I don`t necessarily feel compelled to do problems both sides as left hand is consistently weaker on certain holds but it is a good bench marker when manage it. 

Either way there are a couple of useful you tube videos with tips - they main tip I found useful was chalking on a grid pattern to help with hold placement (either symmetrical or not).  Here is a good video :

   

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#723 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 04:06:15 pm
Who's that punter???

Adam Lincoln

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#724 Re: How to build a woodie
April 07, 2020, 04:39:58 pm
Who's that punter???

Dont know but he has great hair!

 

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