How to build a woodie (Read 494252 times)

SEDur · July 13, 2015, 01:00:03 pm

They will be tied in the not too distant future

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rodma · July 13, 2015, 01:34:03 pm

Quote from: SEDur on July 13, 2015, 01:00:03 pm

They will be tied in the not too distant future

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make it your priority, that thing'll be quite heavy by now.

have had a near miss with a ply bouldering wall collapse in the past (due to some ignorant chump using drywall screws to hold the thing together) and i would have been badly injured and trapped.

looks like a lovely big training wall though

SEDur · July 13, 2015, 11:14:56 pm

Last night after that photo, I added the other two bits of ply.

Tonight I added the other two back legs, braced the mid legs at the bottom to the wall, and framed the 45 section ready for adding ply at the end of the month.

Tomorrow night I need to size up the kick board and screw the kicker into the frame (on the side facing in, away from the camera). Then I can tie the two sides of the A together. This will leave adding the final ply and the holds (when they arrive). Then I will find a solution for the top jugs, finger board + pulley setup, and uplighting. In the distant future I will probably sand and finish the boards properly, and find a way to incorporate a heater and fan.

The board that you can see from this picture is the 35, and I am adding an adjacent 45. Both 12ft by 8ft. Were meant to be 30 and 40, but height was not on my side.

https://instagram.com/p/5F7YqjLaRH/

All proper wood screws from the timber merchant!

SEDur · July 14, 2015, 10:15:26 pm

The bottom of the two parts and the kick board for the 45, are now all in place.
All I need now are more holds (waiting for some to arrive from crusher), and 3 sheets of ply.

SEDur · July 30, 2015, 09:32:07 pm

So I have got the last panels of my setup CNCd and home.
Has anyone got a suggestion as to a good finish to use, or should I just stick with au-natural?

erm, sam · July 31, 2015, 12:16:31 pm

au natural!

davej · October 10, 2015, 11:50:43 am

Anyone got any thoughts on 25/30 degree for a board 12ft by 14 ft ?? I have limited space and this is the max angle I can achieve I intend to cover it in small holds. Sector 3 at broughton was about this angle and was good training. I tend to climb on slightly overhanging limestone with small holds!

a dense loner · October 10, 2015, 01:38:06 pm

I think it'd be a good angle if you used some shocking holds on it, good size as well

davej · October 10, 2015, 01:53:16 pm

Quote from: a dense loner on October 10, 2015, 01:38:06 pm

I think it'd be a good angle if you used some shocking holds on it, good size as well

Yep thats the plan!

SA Chris · October 12, 2015, 10:40:13 am

Quote from: a dense loner on October 10, 2015, 01:38:06 pm

shocking holds

Connect them to a capacitor?

Oldmanmatt · April 27, 2016, 03:34:03 pm

So, we already had a 45* board, but I wanted something different. Something progressive and symmetrical, for a more regimented/repetitive routine.

The counter weights (on a 2:1) let the rig be moved with almost no effort. The only draw back at the mo, is you need to be quite tall to lift the locking bar when t's in the 20* position.

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standard · April 27, 2016, 03:43:09 pm

Matt,

Nice work on the angle changing. Very nice how it supports itself.

How high is that ceiling?
Looking at something similar for at home, but will be high restricted.

Oldmanmatt · April 27, 2016, 03:43:46 pm

Loads of Crusher holds and homemade blobs.
Delightfully hard.

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Oldmanmatt · April 27, 2016, 03:47:41 pm

Quote from: standard on April 27, 2016, 03:43:09 pm

Matt,

Nice work on the angle changing. Very nice how it supports itself.

How high is that ceiling?
Looking at something similar for at home, but will be high restricted.

It's 2.6 mtrs there. But those hinges are 300mm off the deck (so the top of the 2.44 mtr board just touches the ceiling before slipping into the 20* notch.

SEDur · April 27, 2016, 10:58:10 pm

Nice board! Is it fairly solid?

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Oldmanmatt · April 28, 2016, 12:24:33 am

Quote from: SEDur on April 27, 2016, 10:58:10 pm

Nice board! Is it fairly solid?

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Very. The notched bar tops any flexing or rattling and means it's just as resistant to pushing as it is to pulling (unlike chains).

Those are 6mm wrought steel gate hinges (as in Farm, not Garden).

Probes · April 29, 2016, 04:26:43 pm

Looks good that Matt,

Nibile · May 05, 2016, 02:25:26 pm

Nicely done.

Durbs · May 13, 2016, 02:09:06 pm

So for practical, time and money reasons - we're abandoning the garage wall (temporarily) and instead going for an outdoor wall.

The wall it's going against (not into) is 3m wide... in terms of panel width:
2x 1.2m panels (45 & 30) and 1x 0.6m vertical (for guests and bubba)
or 3x 1m panels?
(or 2x 1.5m panels - skipping the vertical...?)

SA Chris · May 13, 2016, 02:32:58 pm

No vert - I think 10 deg is least angle from which you will benefit, but punters can use.

Durbs · May 13, 2016, 04:32:42 pm

Cool - but is 60cm a pointless width?

Oldmanmatt · May 13, 2016, 04:35:03 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on May 13, 2016, 02:32:58 pm

No vert - I think 10 deg is least angle from which you will benefit, but punters can use.

+1

Unless it's a mirror with scratches...

SEDur · May 14, 2016, 12:02:09 am

Quote from: Durbs on May 13, 2016, 02:09:06 pm

So for practical, time and money reasons - we're abandoning the garage wall (temporarily) and instead going for an outdoor wall.

The wall it's going against (not into) is 3m wide... in terms of panel width:
2x 1.2m panels (45 & 30) and 1x 0.6m vertical (for guests and bubba)
or 3x 1m panels?
(or 2x 1.5m panels - skipping the vertical...?)

I think you don't really want to go for thinner than 2.4m (you could probably get away with 1.2 but its going to be very limiting) or shorter that 3.6m if you want to string more that 4 different moves together.
I would sack off the vert and either choose a 30 or 45 and do it properly, by having a 2.4*3.6m set-up.

My 45 is easier to climb on than my 35 due to hold choice, and retrospectively I would probably have benefited as much by building a double-wide wall of a single angle as opposed to two 2.4*3.6m walls at the different angles. If you were desperate, you could also build a campus board on the side of the board in this case.

Going for a few really thin boards at different angles is going to be detrimental, as simplicity is often the best thing to aim for.
Particularly when you are going to have to cover and weather proof the thing (and cost is a factor), and then make it in a way that you will actually want to use it.

chris j · May 14, 2016, 07:10:06 am

I agree with SEDur and would go with one panel of at least 2m wide and maybe a campus board at the side if you really want it. Mine is 2.2m wide and I wouldn't want it much narrower, you lose space for diagonal/sideways moves.

Durbs · May 16, 2016, 05:23:47 pm

Ah ok - thanks for the feedback.

Part of me is wondering whether to try and persuade the Mrs that a 60cm overlap past the wall wouldn't look that bad (i.e. a 2.4m + 1.2m against the 3m wall), but I suspect it will...

We've got scope to go higher, but don't want it to dominate the garden.

The shallow angle would also be for our littlun' to play on, but perhaps a separate traverse wall somewhere else would be better for her (she's currently 1...

)

I was approaching the "narrower, but more angles" style of board in that you could set more interesting problems. I appreciate a standard 40/45 degree wall is best for training, but in terms of motivation I wonder whether we'll use the original design more.
We're far-from-top-level climbers, and the main reason for building the wall is with the bambino we don't get to go to the wall anymore, so it's to keep us in form more than actually become crushing machines (though allowing for this possibility...)