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How to build a woodie (Read 431022 times)

SA Chris

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#1325 Re: How to build a woodie
January 25, 2021, 09:53:21 pm
Take away from the board until there is nothing left to take, not even the board itself. If you can still climbing on it in your mind you have reached true enlightenment.

webbo

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#1326 Re: How to build a woodie
January 26, 2021, 07:59:33 am
No kicker then. However given how I feel this morning after spending most of yesterday getting the frame up, it might be some time before I can use it. ;D

tomtom

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#1327 Re: How to build a woodie
January 26, 2021, 08:09:39 am
No kicker then. However given how I feel this morning after spending most of yesterday getting the frame up, it might be some time before I can use it. ;D

Ha! Building my board was much more of a work out than any session I’ve had on t since!

mrjonathanr

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#1328 Re: How to build a woodie
January 26, 2021, 08:29:56 am
The kicker makes starts easier. It also reduces intensity on circuits. Whether that’s useful is up to you.

webbo

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#1329 Re: How to build a woodie
January 28, 2021, 12:12:12 pm
Board now finished. As the garage doubles as a laundry at times I need to cut down on my chalk use. What’s the best liquid stuff, I’ve got a couple of old bottles of Sids jizz but when I tried to squeeze some out. It was worse than jizz.

tomtom

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#1330 Re: How to build a woodie
January 28, 2021, 12:19:01 pm
Board now finished. As the garage doubles as a laundry at times I need to cut down on my chalk use. What’s the best liquid stuff, I’ve got a couple of old bottles of Sids jizz but when I tried to squeeze some out. It was worse than jizz.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30905.msg617926.html#msg617926

webbo

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#1331 Re: How to build a woodie
January 28, 2021, 02:44:43 pm
Thanks for that. I did give Sids a stir in the bottle and it looks better but I don’t remember it being brown when I bought it.  :sick:

Paul B

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#1332 Re: How to build a woodie
January 28, 2021, 03:02:47 pm
Board now finished. As the garage doubles as a laundry at times I need to cut down on my chalk use. What’s the best liquid stuff, I’ve got a couple of old bottles of Sids jizz but when I tried to squeeze some out. It was worse than jizz.

When Carlisle Slapper had his 'bed' board he had an Ikea (?) laundry basket that was material with a spring type structure and a slit in the top. The chalk bucket lived in that so you could chalk up in the basket without making clouds of dust.

Something like this:
https://www.flipkart.com/home-nilkamal-60-l-yellow-laundry-bag/p/itm1d5967353febf

Chairmen of the Board:

webbo

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#1333 Re: How to build a woodie
January 28, 2021, 07:32:45 pm
I fairly sure that it’s the brushing of holds that causes chalk to get everywhere. Two of my boards had the space above boarded out for storage and everything was covered in chalk. Also my boards were in storage for two months and been sat in the garage for a further 8 months and the back or none climbing side were white with chalk when I got them out to use. That isn’t going to get like that from rubbing your fingers in a bag.
So I’m thinking liquid chalk will not leave so much chalk on the holds so much so less brushing.
Actually the plan is just to leave a bottle of liquid chalk on the window ledge and claim that’s what I use and carry on as normal just remembering to blow off the surfaces with the fan when I’ve finished.

tomtom

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#1334 Re: How to build a woodie
January 28, 2021, 08:30:07 pm
You’re exactly right about LC not leaving much residue on the holds (wooden ones at least on mine) and thus making a mess. I hoovered the mats underneath every couple of weeks at first - but now every 6 weeks or so (its in the spare bedroom and home office - so if it was a problem dust / chalk would be noticed by MrsTT - its not yet). I’m a total convert for my board.. much less mess - and after the initial application, it only requires a drop smeared across the tips every few goes to keep it going.

Its been up 9 months now - used at least twice a week...

mr chaz

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#1335 Re: How to build a woodie
February 11, 2021, 10:56:32 am
Power shedTM owners - what sort of size shed am I looking at to get a decent woodie in, something like 45degree 3 - 5 moves?

Looking at buying our first house, ideally want a garage but if not the power shed seems like the way to go. Would need a bit of storage space in there for bouldering mats, lawn mower etc.

Stabbsy

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#1336 Re: How to build a woodie
February 11, 2021, 12:06:22 pm
Power shedTM owners - what sort of size shed am I looking at to get a decent woodie in, something like 45degree 3 - 5 moves?

Looking at buying our first house, ideally want a garage but if not the power shed seems like the way to go. Would need a bit of storage space in there for bouldering mats, lawn mower etc.

Mine's 12 foot by 8 foot and just short of 7 foot high (it's a pent shed rather than an apex if that means anything to you). Small kickboard, 45 degrees. There are some 2 move problems (3 if you include matching the top), but most things are 4 or 5 moves long. Still plenty of storage space for lawnmower, gardening stuff, etc. Fingerboard and TRX mount in the doorway.

Only issue I've found so far is damp/condensation, as roofing felt isn't great. I'm getting the roof replaced in spring with an EPDM membrane (same stuff as pond liners).

Bradders

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#1337 Re: How to build a woodie
February 11, 2021, 12:40:15 pm
Power shedTM owners - what sort of size shed am I looking at to get a decent woodie in, something like 45degree 3 - 5 moves?

Looking at buying our first house, ideally want a garage but if not the power shed seems like the way to go. Would need a bit of storage space in there for bouldering mats, lawn mower etc.

Having recently been in the same position, I'd say a shed is perhaps even better than a garage; means you can be more flexible with the house you're actually buying and can tailor the space to your needs.

Anyway, for a 45 if you max out the height you're allowed without getting planning permission you want the shed to be at least 3m long x as wide as you can go to get max width of the board.

My shed footprint is 4.3m x 3.3m but it's only longer so I could get an extra 25 degree board in opposite the 45.

45 dimensions are 3m wide, 2.4m high, 2.4m deep with 3.3m of climbing surface. No kicker or finishing vert section so you're on the steep the whole time. Problems going straight up tend to be 3 moves as a minimum, but more usually 4-6 if on small holds etc. Then due to the width there are lots going side to side, think longest I've made so far is 10 moves but could definitely go longer.

Bradders

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#1338 Re: How to build a woodie
February 11, 2021, 12:41:23 pm
And on condensation, get it insulated from the start. Retro fitting it is a right faff. Plus some decent ventilation.

Bradders

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#1339 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 11:48:58 am
People with screw on holds; do you reset / move things often, or at all? And if you do, do the extra holes in the ply cause any issues?

Saw on Insta Louis Parkinson seems to reset his non-T-nutted wall about once a month or something and the ply is now riddled with screw holes. Just wondering if there were any issues with doing it on a more limited basis.

I definitely don't have the time to reset the whole thing! Nor would I want to for that matter. But might be nice to tweak things on occasion.

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#1340 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 11:52:04 am
I try not to, I don't like the look of screw hole-riddled ply. If I do move some and tweak the arrangement, then something will usually go in the same place to cover it. I have more holds than I have space on the board though, so I can usually find or make a hold to occupy a space.

tomtom

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#1341 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 12:03:57 pm
Nope. Barely moved mine. Still looks clean and fine. (It’s nearly a year old!!!)

But (a) I’m not LP (b) my board isn’t anything like as densely spaced.

It does get used 3 or 4 times a week though...

JJP

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#1342 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 12:34:15 pm
People with screw on holds; do you reset / move things often, or at all? And if you do, do the extra holes in the ply cause any issues?

Saw on Insta Louis Parkinson seems to reset his non-T-nutted wall about once a month or something and the ply is now riddled with screw holes. Just wondering if there were any issues with doing it on a more limited basis.

I definitely don't have the time to reset the whole thing! Nor would I want to for that matter. But might be nice to tweak things on occasion.

Hey Bradders

I have had my board for around 5 years now and have reset it 2 or 3 times as well as more minor moving around of things.  Mainly as I have improved/ expanded hold set and gained a bit more experience of how to set it to allow variety in moves/ holds etc.  Obviously it does leave holes in the wood but I have not had any issues from that and always assumed that compared to the level of resetting at commercial walls (eg the fixing screws they use in addition to main T-nut) that my changes would be fairly minor.  Might also depend on which ply you have. 


remus

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#1343 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 12:48:27 pm
I didn't reset mine in the ~10 months it was up as I never felt the need. Might want to if you find yourself in a bit of a rut in terms of coming up with problems (or you get a load of new holds as JJP said).

I suspect you can probably get away with a lot of screw holes in your ply before it becomes an issue. The works certainly looks pretty swiss cheese in places and doesn't seem like it's about to fall over.

SA Chris

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#1344 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 12:53:11 pm
Have a look at some commercial walls? (when they open again) Parts of our local one are about 12 plus years old, and have probably been reset at very least 6 times a year. I know it's T nutted, but still a lot of setting screws and screw ons used too. You only notice the screw holes if you look closely, and it certainly hasn't done the structure any harm.

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#1345 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 01:17:24 pm
People with screw on holds; do you reset / move things often, or at all? And if you do, do the extra holes in the ply cause any issues?

Saw on Insta Louis Parkinson seems to reset his non-T-nutted wall about once a month or something and the ply is now riddled with screw holes. Just wondering if there were any issues with doing it on a more limited basis.

I definitely don't have the time to reset the whole thing! Nor would I want to for that matter. But might be nice to tweak things on occasion.
You'd have to make a lot of screw holes on a non-T-nut wall to remove as much material as all the 12-13mm holes in a T-nutted wall on a standard 20cm grid. Obviously the T-nut reinforces the hole, but the T-nut hole is probably 7-15 times bigger than a screw hole.

Paul B

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#1346 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 03:36:26 pm
You only notice the screw holes if you look closely, and it certainly hasn't done the structure any harm.

Or when your mate goes running backwards across the mats holding a large jug replete with T-nut and plywood still attached?

Damp conditions, laminated plywood (to achieve a curve) and pinning screws on similar sized holds were likely the cause.

SA Chris

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#1347 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 03:40:08 pm
You only notice the screw holes if you look closely, and it certainly hasn't done the structure any harm.

Or when your mate goes running backwards across the mats holding a large jug replete with T-nut and plywood still attached?

Damp conditions, laminated plywood (to achieve a curve) and pinning screws on similar sized holds were likely the cause.

Don't remember that happening at our local.

Bradders

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#1348 Re: How to build a woodie
February 26, 2021, 06:45:10 pm
Thanks all, time to move some things around!

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#1349 Re: How to build a woodie
March 08, 2021, 01:13:09 pm

Taken down my board as needed the room so built this little foot on campus thing in the cellar. Better than nowt

 

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