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Hold tight, it's the holds thread (Read 51340 times)

Fultonius

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#150 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
November 15, 2022, 09:31:56 am
32.50 for a pair!

Teslas don't charge themselves...

Danny

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#151 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
November 15, 2022, 10:32:10 am
I've got these wooden euroholds ones on my board: https://euroholds.com/en/wooden-holds/1092-deep-bifinger-8435561579399.html

I also have the shallow bis and monos. They're all pretty ergonomic IMO, and a good bit cheaper than the BMs.



mattsparksy

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#152 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
December 23, 2023, 03:11:50 pm
Not sure if this threads still alive, but does anyone have any suggestions for volumes for a 45, these (https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p190/Board__Volume.html#/) where suggested but are now out of stock.

Cheers.

remus

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#153 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
December 23, 2023, 04:31:50 pm
Would be worth dropping probes on here a message, he makes holds and I'm sure he'd be able to whip up some volumes similar to the hardwoodholds ones.

kac

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#154 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
December 23, 2023, 05:07:48 pm
Beta blox also sell them. Don't know what the volumes are like but the holds are good

mattsparksy

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#155 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
December 24, 2023, 12:07:48 am
Cheers, Ill have a look into both.

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#156 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 16, 2024, 08:01:26 pm
I want to put more slopers on my 50 board and wood slopers have to be too positive such that they don't replicate the hand position (joint angles) of a hard sloper outside. Any plastic or textured wood recommendations?

remus

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#157 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 16, 2024, 09:18:41 pm
I find it quite hard to set sloper problems on my board that feel anything like sloper problems outside. I think the issue is that just putting slopey holds on the board gives you movements that are pretty dissimilar to stuff you find on rock: the wrist position usually feels off, and sloper problems outside often feel to me like there's a lot of heel hooks, toe dragging and foot compression stuff which you don't tend to get a lot of on the board.

Imo the best option would be to add some small volumes to the board to give some more variety in angles and allow some proper rubbish slopers that get your wrist in the right position and allow you some more funky footwork options.

Paul B

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#158 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 16, 2024, 09:32:44 pm
Agreed. My favourite slopers are the pusher font range but these would be useless on a board.

The old Foundry barrel had the pusher granite stuff and it was surprising just how challenging relatively large flat holds were. The font stuff was higher up so you'd often end up locked in on a granite heel slapping the slopes stuff.

Anyway, shouldn't you be burning your board right about now?

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#159 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 16, 2024, 09:46:49 pm
I intend to set them sideways so they work in compression (attempting to set a replica of something that is actually slightly steeper). I have long volumes running down either side of my board and have already set many problems with toe hooks, heel hooks, kneebars, etc so i'm not worried about getting that bit right.

On the topic of heel hooks on boards, I was recently inspired seeing a video of Drew Ruana heelhooking a very small edge on a steep board and have been trying to work towards something similar, heelhooking ever smaller holds. Now this feels like useful training!

Anyway, shouldn't you be burning your board right about now?

Not sure why I would do that but if this is a carryover from the other thread, i'm one of the "very weak for the grade" climbers according to Lattice data so I should probably use it even more if anything...

Yossarian

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#160 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 08:28:44 am
Could you put a picture up of your board Liam? Intrigued by the volume arrangement!

jshaw

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#161 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 09:25:48 am
On my 45 degree board I have a set of:

"Bleaustone Training Dual (15/30) Slopers" - which are a little too positively angled to be true slopers, but I like them.
I have some Volx slopers that I really like but I can't find the link to the exact ones at the moment. Maybe they don't make them anymore. I'll have a look later.



remus

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#162 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 10:03:33 am
Could you put a picture up of your board Liam? Intrigued by the volume arrangement!

Assume it'll be something like this https://www.instagram.com/p/C2FuKaHt-pG/ I've done something similar on my board recently, thought with slightly smaller volumes, and it's mint!

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#163 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 10:27:29 am
Could you put a picture up of your board Liam? Intrigued by the volume arrangement!

In a couple of threads, I've recently mentioned using my board / training space in a slightly different way, so I've put a few phone clips together. I'm quite good at front-on locky crimping, so I've been trying to limit that style in training even though it is relevant to the climbing I do outside (I just don't feel like crimp strength is limiting me on anything at the moment). The alternative style on a board usually means big moves and cutting loose on pinches, but that isn't relevant to any climbing I do outside, so I don't do much of that either. What I think are more common limiting factors on rock are things like body tension in weird positions, precision and timing, compression, slopey feet, hard heel hooks, and hard knee bars. Since I can only get outside 1-2 times per week and I rarely go to a wall, I'm try to work these things at home. It might seem like i'd be better off just going to the wall if I want to use heels and contorted positions, but I think having it at home allows for a more systematic approach to training, e.g. gradually making the heel worse, or the move bigger/more tensiony/weirder etc. 

My setup has changed quite a bit and I did once have volumes running the full length of the board on either side (like in Dan's video above), but I found that leaving enough room for heel hooks behind the volumes wasted quite a bit of real estate, so I chopped them in half and pushed them further out towards the walls and they are now mostly used for compression hand holds and the occasional toe hook, heel/toe cam against the wall, or bridging/drop knee foot holds on the inner face of the volume. To make sure I still get heel hooks lower down I've added plenty of flat or slopey holds, jugs and pinches for that purpose. For my purpose, I think this is better as there's more variety in the heel hook positions (i.e. not all out to the side). For an example of how trainable heel hooking is as a skill, a few weeks ago I could only heel hook jugs on the flat surface of my 50 board, but now I can heel hook on a 30mm edge quite reliably and sometimes on a 25mm edge. I'm pretty sure this will be more beneficial to my climbing than extra finger strength, for example.

Building an arete style volume on the sidewall was an experiment that I thought would probably be a bit crap, but it actually allows for some very hard and realistic compression moves between it and the board (particularly once left hand reaches the board volume - I have a project that feels like a circa 8A grit arete). The last clip shown below is the most elaborate setup working a replica of a roof project with pulley assistance and it works really well (recently did the crux move on the real thing after around 6 months of trying).




Fultonius

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#164 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 10:35:29 am
 Is your rope for assistance or fall arrest?

JamieG

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#165 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 10:41:20 am
Since I can only get outside 1-2 times per week

 :'( I so wish I had this problem. 1-2 times a month is good going. The home board has been such a huge boost to keeping me sane.

SA Chris

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#166 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 10:46:16 am
Likewise.  I think this time of year on real rock once a month is good for me. My board is incredibly basic by comparison (mostly due to space limitations and effort on my part) which is why I make the effort to get to the climbing wall every week / couple of weeks to do the things that are hard to do on my board.

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#167 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 10:59:40 am
Is your rope for assistance or fall arrest?

I'm using it for assistance. I've gradually reduced the assistance and was able to do the crux move in isolation on the real thing last weekend. This has been very valuable as it's nearly always wet. Still not sure if i'll ever do the problem.

1-2 times a month is good going. The home board has been such a huge boost to keeping me sane.

Well, I've averaged significantly less than 1-2x per week over the last few months due to the abysmal weather, but 2x is my aim when the weather is good.

Probes

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#168 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 17, 2024, 05:02:27 pm
Hi Liam, not sure if you're on my insta (crusher), but ironically I put a vid up the other day that may be useful. Small volumes/wedges on one of my 50s that's allowed me to get some pretty realistic sloper action. Sounds like you are trying to achieve the same as I have been. I've found the change in angle by only 10 or so degrees, and being able to 'twist' the 'volume' allows you tweak the position enough to get some sloper type holds to really work... when if you just slap them on the board are pretty useless.

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#169 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 19, 2024, 08:20:52 am
Volx Euphoria.

Have you ever experimented with covering wooden volumes in fine grain sandpaper?

SA Chris

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#170 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 19, 2024, 10:33:30 am
I've got some pine wood balls I cut in half and drilled out to take bolts. They are a complete pig on a 30ish board, would be a horror on anything steeper. I had to roughen the surface a bit with a file, but the friction is definitely better in some parts than others, depending on the grain.

 

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