[Doylo]

Don't be mean, she's only 13 

[J_duds]

The Guardian says 9a+

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/mar/22/rock-climbing-ashima-shiraishi-breaking-record-spain

"The route’s new grading, and therefore Ashima’s record, await consensus in a sport where top bragging rights are jealously guarded, closely scrutinised and often aggressively challenged, and routes’ grades of difficulty have an element of subjectivity.
But there seems little doubt that Open Your Mind Direct is now regarded as a 9a+ "

[205Chris]

The Guardian says 9a+

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/mar/22/rock-climbing-ashima-shiraishi-breaking-record-spain

"The route’s new grading, and therefore Ashima’s record, await consensus in a sport where top bragging rights are jealously guarded, closely scrutinised and often aggressively challenged, and routes’ grades of difficulty have an element of subjectivity.
But there seems little doubt that Open Your Mind Direct is now regarded as a 9a+ "

From the comments:

Why is it OK for a thirteen year old girl to climb a sheer rock face, but not OK for a thirteen year old to take heroin? If you fall off a rock face there is not much that can be done, if you overdose on heroin there is a good chance that prompt medical attention can save the situation.

[Jaspersharpe]

Interesting that the Dawn Wall stuff seems to have really increased MSM interest in climbing.

Edit - I didn't read the comments fortunately!

[J_duds]

"Ahhhhh!!!! I sent my 2nd project Ciudad de Dios 9a/9a+😍😍😍 This one took me 3 days to SEND! But my fingers are bleeding now😭"

https://instagram.com/p/0lCU1OLJTL/

she needs to try a harder route!

[kelvin]

At this rate, she'll end up stronger than Malc.

[gme]

I am genuinely impressed at what she is doing and my next point has nothing to do with her/her being a girl/sour grapes/Sheffield scene/old man (it was much harder in my day) etc etc

BUT

The impressiveness of the routes in this cave is reduced for me due to them just being links of the same half dozen routes. The description of the latest one does not seem to contain anything different than the ones she has already done.

I have never been to the crag nor seen a topo so i may be totally wrong.

[Doylo]

She's still doing them ridiculously quickly.

[bendavison]

IIRC Directa open your mind is (one of the) a direct start to Fabelita (8c). Ciudad de Dios is the same hard start, then does the harder, alternative finish to Fabilita, Fabela (8c+). I guess the next logical step is to do the same again with the extension to the top of the cave, though not sure if that adds a grade to Ciudad - it does add a grade to Fabela.

It's just logical to do it that way there I guess.

[abarro81]

Direct start to open your mind is, unsurprisingly, the direct start into open your mind, not fabelita 

[bendavison]

D'oh! But open your mind is like a direct finish of Fabelita, right?

[abarro81]

Kind of, they share the 8a start then all the hard stuff is different.

[slackline]

[gme]

Nordic Flower 8c second try. some still think 8c+.

Trying Thors Hammer 9a+which would be a very impressive tick, putting her pretty much up there with the men.

[SA Chris]

Impressive.

In a line up I'm not sure who if you had to guess from appearance would be least likely to be a top sport climber; Ashima or Ondra.

[Muenchener]

Nordic Flower 8c second try. some still think 8c+.

Trying Thors Hammer 9a+which would be a very impressive tick, putting her pretty much up there with the men.

Also rather scuppers the theory that she only performs at a top level on slightly overhanging face climbing on small holds. From the pictures I get the impression that these are not stereotypical "girls' routes"

[gme]

Its a 60m roof so your partly correct. However it is still very much an endurance route with lots and lots (and lots its massive) of easy moves so will have suited a small skinny kid who doesnt get pumped.

However Thors Hammer looks a different kettle of fish altogether, really hard boulder problems up a 45 degree wall for 20 meters then a nice little 40m 8b+ to finish up. Ondra does it in his film amd grades it 9a+, Midtbo didnt do it and thought it was 9b so i guess it is a tricky one.

If she does it it really will put her up with the top 10-15 climbers in the world. It sounds like its wet though unfortunately.

[lagerstarfish]

the rope drag on a 60m route must take quite a bit of effort for a skinny 13 year old kid

[Muenchener]

She can use one of those 6.5mm twin strings

[gme]

the rope drag on a 60m route must take quite a bit of effort for a skinny 13 year old kid

You pull the rope through from a knee bar at half height to make it easier.

[Nibile]

the rope drag on a 60m route must take quite a bit of effort for a skinny 13 year old kid

You pull the rope through from a knee bar at half height to make it easier.

You shouldn't teach kneebars to a young climber. They will ruin their career.
In case the young climber learns them by intuition, you should forbid their use.

[gme]

She probably didnt need them. Pretty sure she could climb into some of the holds on it.

[Nibile]

 

[tomtom]

:D

[remus]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70025

8A, 8A+ and 8B+ (second ascent) in a day. Not too shabby.