[Wood FT]

Until a few months ago I was quite a fan of Enormocast and listened to all of them in full. But lately I am finding the guests boring and Kalous' style increasingly annoyingly. I get the impression, right now, that Black Diamond is picking his guests.

I found the last James Lucas one quite funny, have you listened to that one?

[abarro81]

My understanding was that EL compared MAW (Max. added weight) followed by MED (Min. edge depth) and the reverse i.e. MED followed by MAW, and compared the two. I didn't think she'd done MAW vs. MED (am I remembering this correctly?).

Indeed, I've seen people quote it as evidence that
- 10 second hangs are best
- Adding weight is better than reducing edge size
- 4 finger half crimp is the best
In reality it shows none of these, and doesn't even attempt to show any of these. I think a lot of people who aren't used to reading papers take things away from them that aren't necessarily there. It gave a little insight into something that may prove interesting but nothing more... (Plus, since the group size was 4-5 people and they were all undergoing different training outside of the exercises it means pretty much nothing)

[Tommy]

Until a few months ago I was quite a fan of Enormocast and listened to all of them in full. But lately I am finding the guests boring and Kalous' style increasingly annoyingly. I get the impression, right now, that Black Diamond is picking his guests.

I found the last James Lucas one quite funny, have you listened to that one?

Second that. James is really funny and reminds me a lot of Grimer. I wonder if they've ever met? It would be like Janet and Michael Jackson in the same room. Magic could happen...

[Wood FT]

It would be like Janet and Michael Jackson in the same room. Magic could happen...

Would need to be a video interview then, ideally.

[Muenchener]

Until a few months ago I was quite a fan of Enormocast and listened to all of them in full. But lately I am finding the guests boring and Kalous' style increasingly annoyingly. I get the impression, right now, that Black Diamond is picking his guests. Meanwhile, somehow, despite Neely Quinn being a terrible interviewer, the Trainingbeta podcast has scored several great interviewees, like Ondra and Bill Ramsay.

If you think Neely is a weak interviewer and the enormocast is becomng too advertising driven, well you ain't heard nothing until you've tried Jürgen Reis at powerquest.cc

Nevertheless, he gets some good guests. Here's Steve McClure on being weak but naturally light and not training systematically. The bit with Steve in English is from about 18:00 to 45:00

[duncan]

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/steve-bechtel-2/
The latest trainingbeta podcast with Steve Bechtel is a good one I think. It's quite wide-ranging but he has some thoughts on movement and behaviour change which are much more interesting than (yet) another fingerboard routine (sorry Nibs!).

Still not totally convinced by the interviewer but perhaps I can't hear past the accent. She certainly gets some good interviewees. Alex Barrows hasn't put her off Brits either: Tom Randall, Steve Maclure, and Dave Macleod coming up.

[joel182]

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/steve-bechtel-2/
The latest trainingbeta podcast with Steve Bechtel is a good one I think. It's quite wide-ranging but he has some thoughts on movement and behaviour change which are much more interesting than (yet) another fingerboard routine (sorry Nibs!).

Still not totally convinced by the interviewer but perhaps I can't hear past the accent. She certainly gets some good interviewees. Alex Barrows hasn't put her off Brits either: Tom Randall, Steve Maclure, and Dave Macleod coming up.

I feel like Neely struggles with interviewing people who aren't really focused trainers/coaches, seeming to get bogged down in details about training when often the interviewee basically 'just goes climbing'.

[petejh]

Until a few months ago I was quite a fan of Enormocast and listened to all of them in full. But lately I am finding the guests boring and Kalous' style increasingly annoyingly. I get the impression, right now, that Black Diamond is picking his guests. Meanwhile, somehow, despite Neely Quinn being a terrible interviewer, the Trainingbeta podcast has scored several great interviewees, like Ondra and Bill Ramsay.

If you think Neely is a weak interviewer and the enormocast is becomng too advertising driven, well you ain't heard nothing until you've tried Jürgen Reis at powerquest.cc

Nevertheless, he gets some good guests. Here's Steve McClure on being weak but naturally light and not training systematically. The bit with Steve in English is from about 18:00 to 45:00

Liked that. It's always really good listening to McClure talk about climbing and (not)training or dieting. He's the antithesis of a lot of what goes on in the 'diet and training' section on here. Although I'm naturally attracted to specific training for climbing, I like that there are people who are so internally motivated by something that they can become a master at it by more or less just following the clichéd approach of 'best training for climbing is climbing'.

[Paul B]

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/steve-bechtel-2/
The latest trainingbeta podcast with Steve Bechtel is a good one I think. It's quite wide-ranging but he has some thoughts on movement and behaviour change which are much more interesting than (yet) another fingerboard routine (sorry Nibs!).

Still not totally convinced by the interviewer but perhaps I can't hear past the accent. She certainly gets some good interviewees. Alex Barrows hasn't put her off Brits either: Tom Randall, Steve Maclure, and Dave Macleod coming up.

It was nice to hear him not misquote the Eva Lopez stuff too, in fact his review of the paper is one of the better efforts I've seen. /rant

I listened to both the above and the Sonnie Trotter Enormocast on a recent flight and I'd favour listing to Neely every time atm, 8:30 of intro / adverts on the latter!

There are a lot of trainers / coaches out there these days (as the TB cast discusses) and I'm still not sure there'd be many I'd be willing to use, even more so after hearing them discuss certain things on social media and podcasts.

However, I'm psyched to hear Tommy.

[joel182]

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/steve-bechtel-2/
The latest trainingbeta podcast with Steve Bechtel is a good one I think. It's quite wide-ranging but he has some thoughts on movement and behaviour change which are much more interesting than (yet) another fingerboard routine (sorry Nibs!).

Still not totally convinced by the interviewer but perhaps I can't hear past the accent. She certainly gets some good interviewees. Alex Barrows hasn't put her off Brits either: Tom Randall, Steve Maclure, and Dave Macleod coming up.

I feel like Neely struggles with interviewing people who aren't really focused trainers/coaches, seeming to get bogged down in details about training when often the interviewee basically 'just goes climbing'.

Yeah, or put more generally: she does better with bright articulate people who have their ideas sorted. That said, it can be quite entertaining listening to her struggle. The Isabelle Faus one is a classic in that genre.

Seems like a good way to put it - will add the Faus podcast to the queue to listen to!

[Mumrik]

I quite like the Enormocast, and the relaxed style of Chris. It's funny and keeps the psyched level sufficient for boring training or when other obligations keep me away from the gym.
I've tried listening to the TB podcast, but it didn't really stick with me. The interviewer bored me and seemed rather ill prepared. Guess I'll have to give it another go at some point though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cheque]

Jamcrack 1. 

[chillax]

Just finished listening to Tommy's spin on Training Beta. Very good episode. Neely isn't the greatest interviewer in the world, but with the right interviewee some good info gets thrown up.

I was particularly interested in the bit on aerobic capacity being trained at split intensities and the concept of the "wasted miles" of moderate intensity endurance training. I'm just back climbing after 2 years of frustration with ankle injury, and 9 months off post ankle surgery. Trying to develop some endurance (which I've never had) for trad next year, but it sounds like my tactics have fallen squarely in the "wasted miles" camp. Will try the split low and high intensity aerobic capacity stuff and see how that goes. Thanks for the steer Tommy!

Ep available here

[Pewtle]

Jamcrack 1. 

Quite enjoyed first Jam Crack episode - got the episode with Tommy C in my queue but what I've heard so far is good.

[Muenchener]

+1

Just listened to Michaela on the way to work: excellent.

Off to look for a random Grimer post to wad.

[duncan]

That was great. Funny and serious in about equal measure.

Strong sport climber/boulderer takes to trad. climbing is almost a trope now but this is one of the best: "You put an elephant in the elephant-shaped hole"!

[Wood FT]

Very funny that bit

[Duncan campbell]

Guy, don't start carrying elephants on cord please!

[Muenchener]

That was great. Funny and serious in about equal measure.

Yes, seems like a very smart and self aware lady.

M jnr & I were well impressed as live spectators of her performance in the World Champs in Munich 2014

[Bencil]

Just came across this: https://soundcloud.com/dan-goodwin-638476911/

Recent interview with Tom Randall is good.

Also found the Ethan Pringle one interesting too. His advice: no before hard climbs!

[cowboyhat]

Back on Grimer: That Tommy Caldwell one is really great.

I didn't know anything about him but he comes across well, clearly put at ease by Grimer and the rapport benefits the interview. Compared to how dry some of the training podcasts are these are a treat.

[slackline]

Not listened to either of these but they are in my Soundcloud stream and I figured others might be interseted...

The Ledge - Jimmy Web

Conversation with Boone Speed although it sounds as though its primarily about photography.

[Ged]

Is Chris kalous the enormocast guy? He does my head in. It seems to be more about his opinions and stories than the interviewees. The one with Hayden Kennedy was ridiculous. He was just interrupting him constantly to keep on banging on about his point. I'm fairly sure they would be better in a half hour version edited by somebody else

[bigironhorse]

Boone Speed

Great name.

[duncan]

I just stumbled over the now ended "Basecamp" series of podcasts from the Banff Centre. Many of the usual suspects interviewed on there: Caldwell, Honsolo, etc. The interviewer is very low key, almost to the point where he just seems to be reading out a list of pre-prepared questions without any effort at logical segues. But I think I prefer that to Chris Kalous' lengthy pre-ambles. Two stand-outs for me, neither climbing stars in the normal sense:

Ed Douglas

Katie Ives (editor of Alpinist)

Thanks. The Ed Douglas one is particularly good.