[Grubes]

not sure if this has been posted before but following the Ben moon article on the interview thread. Not knowing who Fred Rouhling was I did some googling and found this:
http://www.climbing.com/climber/fred-rouhling/
Its an interesting article that starts as a witch hunt but ends completely differently.
I really enjoyed it.

[Jaspersharpe]

Read that a while ago but it's well worth rereading. A classic.

[moose]

If that's the Fred film I am thinking of, filmed at his home crag with the mattress stashed in a cave, it's some of my favourite climbing footage ever.  It's just so joyous: the sheer uncomplicated pleasure he shows, merrily swinging off hideous monos with child-like glee. 

[webbo]

A Yosemite legend, partial inspiration for the film Cliffhanger - John Long wrote an early version of the screenplay and - allegedly, of course - responsible for funding many European climbing vacations in the late 1970s!

One visiting Australian made enough money to take a weekend trip back to Aus for a family celebration.

[Muenchener]

This is from July but doesn't seem to have been linked before. Daniel Woods, Alex Honnold and friends take a boat trip down the Green River during which Mr Woods learns how to do trad climbing.

Woah, leading is way different despite difficulty. I had never fallen on gear before, so the picture of potential ground fall entered my mind. I quickly learned to block those thoughts out and focus on the present situation.

... by making the third ascent of a 5.13R on his second day

I felt nauseous before my first lead attempt. "I could fall on the intro boulder and hit the ground or fall in the crux and potentially hit the deck." These were not positive sending thoughts.

[Wood FT]

That first picture on the link makes it looks like woods had the hardest paper round going! Glad to see he's checking out the other pews in this grand church though

[cheque]

The film with him and Yuri Hirayama that's part of Reel Rock 8 explains the new craggy Woods look- he basically turns up for a high-altitude trip in his jeans and trainers and gets fucked up everyday going out without sunglasses or sunscreen.   

[slackline]

The film with him and Yuri Hirayama that's part of Reel Rock 8 explains the new craggy Woods look- he basically turns up for a high-altitude trip in his jeans and trainers and gets fucked up everyday going out without sunglasses or sunscreen.   

It was in Borneo on Mount Kinabalu National Park (~4000m) and he got a "little" sunburnt...

[slackline]

This is a good read...

Mesca-Dawn: A Remembrance of Bill Denz by David Austin

[SA Chris]

http://eveningsends.com/2013/10/maxing-beta/

Biggest Beta Bitch nominations please.

[kelvin]

This is a good read...

Mesca-Dawn: A Remembrance of Bill Denz by David Austin

Cheers for that Slackers.

[jwi]

http://eveningsends.com/2013/10/maxing-beta/

Biggest Beta Bitch nominations please.

I totally fail to see the problem with asking for help.

Is it just me, or does someone else find that author to be the most whiny writer in climbing?

[erm, sam]

I think he is one of the most interesting writers in climbing (that I have come across) at the moment..

[SA Chris]

I totally fail to see the problem with asking for help.

I think you totally failed to read the whole article if you think that's the main point.

[jwi]

Allen's quip about speed reading ("I took a speed-reading course and read War and Peace in twenty minutes. It involves Russia.") sadly applies to me. But this reads exceedingly whiny to me, even on a second read:

You see this a lot in Rifle, which is one of the more beta-intensive places to climb. Strong rope guns who are passing through don’t want to flail or put in their dues to learn the style of movement here; so they soak up all the beta they can, which is sometimes information that literally equates to 20-plus years of other climbers’ efforts and refinements. They get the redpoint second try and record as many points as they can get away with on their 8a.nu scorecards. (Strangely, these same climbers think that these routes, many of which were first climbed without kneepads, are sandbagged despite the fact that every single hold and sequence is handed to them on a platter. There’s no question that the 1,000th ascent should technically be easier than the first ascent, though grading trends seem to suggest otherwise, likely because people nowadays think they’re stronger than they actually are.)

[SA Chris]

I think it's an even veiw on beta in general. Saying in small measures it's a good thing, but too much is a bad thing.

I don't think that paragraph is overly whiny, more like fair comment.

[slackline]

Perfect Play

[Muenchener]

I like that, thanks.

There's such a strong tradition of good writing about mountaineering and trad climbing, but very few people seem to be making any effort to write anything thoughtful and halfway articulate about what sport climbing is and why it is interesting and worthwhile. Bisharat is one of those people, and although I find the quality of his writing patchy I admire him for trying. I find this one of his better efforts.

[cheque]

I like that, thanks.

There's such a strong tradition of good writing about mountaineering and trad climbing, but very few people seem to be making any effort to write anything thoughtful and halfway articulate about what sport climbing is and why it is interesting and worthwhile. Bisharat is one of those people, and although I find the quality of his writing patchy I admire him for trying. I find this one of his better efforts.

 

[slackline]

The psychology of redpointing is really interesting but rarely written about well.

Maybe one of the erudite denizens of this chapel could write something?

Could even be a new feature of UKB... "Articles"

[Fiend]

  Sharma,  Ondra, inspiring stuff.

[r-man]

An interview with Ramon

http://www.restjug.com/2013/11/all-about-ramon-julian-puigblanque/

[Muenchener]

Interview with Mark Twight from 2000, just after the single-push ascent of the Czech Direct on Denali.

Very detailed and fascinating on the logistics/tactics/psychology of such a thing, even for someone like me who has no aspiration to anything of that sort.

[Muenchener]

Oxford Climbers Find Mishaps, Tomfoolery and New Routes in Greenland


Bloody hell, kids these days etc.

[Wood FT]

You sail half way around the word to climb original route on high tor



very jealous, and bitter.