[Doylo]

Old Neil Carson interview about Big Bang from 1997.

[Wood FT]

The questioning is so much better than modern mags

[SA Chris]

http://www.climbing.co.za/2014/03/oceans-of-my-life/

Brief history of climbing on SA's Klein Winterhoek.

[slackline]

Old Neil Carson interview about Big Bang from 1997.

Is the second page to this available?

[Muenchener]

Dave Graham on music and fishing.

Back in the glory days of Spain, when I was rollin’ deep with my homies Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada, even though we were having a blast, the conversation would always circle back to them making fun of how small my biceps are. They also said I looked like a puppet when I fell off routes. I hated that shit!

Somebody should invite him to the UKB Summer Angling Match.

[moose]

Good stuff, anyone have a copy of the Jonathan Thesenga article he said upset him, “Why One of America’s Best Climbers Should be One of the Worst.”  Sounds interesting but googling didn't find it.

[SA Chris]

You could substitute "America's" for "the Worlds". If you had a lineup of the top 20 climbers in the world, I bet no no non-cliber would ever pick out Adam Ondra as the best.

[SA Chris]

More a trip report, but a pretty hard core climb.

http://www.climbing.co.za/2014/04/clinton-martinengo-wall-of-silence-solo/

[kelvin]

More a trip report, but a pretty hard core climb.

http://www.climbing.co.za/2014/04/clinton-martinengo-wall-of-silence-solo/

Yeah - the guy sounds quite a character. I've climbed with Joe who he mentions in the article and he says that Clinton basically lives on white bread and coca cola and still remains scrawny as a sparrow. I chuckled when I saw a Coke can in one of the pics.

There's a write up of the ascent of Art of Hearts somewhere that's very much in a similar vein. Doubt I'll ever be good enough but that Ampitheatre is the one place on the planet I'd love to climb.

Cheers for that Chris.

[Muenchener]

Topropes with Extraneous Gear on their harness.
You don’t need an ATC, belay gloves, nut tool and/or random single locker for toproping.

   

He's not wrong. Otoh I can state from direct personal experience (yesterday) that it can also be embarrassing to arrive at a single-bolt lower off that you intend to thread and clean, only to find you are armed with a grand total of one quickdraw.

Plays any of the following at camp or in the parking lot: ... Guitar.

   

There was a bloke playing guitar at Oma Eichler's at the weekend who was actually good. Admittedly that doesn't happen very often.

[Sasquatch]

Rock and Ice have re-published this article of Jonathan Thesenga's online (originally in the print mag about a year ago): "Climbing Deal Breakers". I feel it deserves an honourable mention in here just for the number of people he has wound up ... read the comments. Quite North American centric of course.

I scored a 8.5/50(gave myself a .5 for Teva's instead of chacos...) 

I can't decide if that's a good or bad thing 

[galpinos]

I scored a 8.5/50(gave myself a .5 for Teva's instead of chacos...) 

I can't decide if that's a good or bad thing 

If only you didn't take your cats to the crag on leashes you'd have been ok.....

[jwi]

3/50 but have only ever hollered allez/venga/ganba/davay/come on/etc ... to french/spanish/japanese/slavic/english climbers. Is that considered faux-pas?

[Sasquatch]

3?  Really....

Tevas - Check (.5pts)         Best approach shoe for wet tundra and talus
Rolled up pants - Check      Not always, but when the occasion demands-up they go
No Shirt/Beanie - Check      Not 100% why, but I know I've done it before, and will likely do it again
Chalk Ball - Check              Anyone doing developing in wet weather knows the value of a chalk ball over loose chalk
Stick Clip - Check               When in Rome....  Learned to stick clip at the Red and loved it 
Clipped to pack - Check      It varies, but there's always something that I forget to pack, then remember and can't be arsed to stuff inside
Fist bumps - Check             I climb w/ a bunch of kids, can't be helped. Never initiate, but figure it's polite to respond in kind rather than leave em hanging
Belay's w/ shoes on - Check My gym shoes for rope climbing are super comfy so why take em off
Chalkbag w/ biner - Check   Not sure, but I think I lost my chalk bag belt at some point and never got a new one

The only guilty one for me is #3, but it's pretty rare as I don't wear beanie's all that often.   

[jwi]

Kind of NA-centric list, so it's not strange that overaged old-world climbers score low.

Wears manpris. Check. When it's really warm and there might be knee bars on the route.

Hollers non-native language encouragements such as “Allez,” “Venga”, “Come one” or “Jiyo” to partners. Check. No one understands  my native language where I live.

Kneebars on a warm-up. Check. If there is a knee-bar on a route, and I have jeans I use it, whatever the grade. I also jam cracks, drop knees and use other new-fangled techniques on my warm ups.

[Sasquatch]

Kind of NA-centric list, so it's not strange that overaged old-world climbers score low.

and yoof-centric 

[Fiend]

Beanie/shirtless (cos my head gets cold while my body overheats)
Chalk-ball (cos loose chalk alone doesn't get enough on my hands, and blows out easily)
Sports wear (cos fuck spending £50 on fancy prana trousers)

[SA Chris]

Do fist bumps and foreign words in a satirical fashion count? Guilty of both.

Otherwise just the IKEA bag and a nut key hanging off harness for me.

I had to google 'tuque'.

[Muenchener]

a nut key hanging off harness

I have more than once regretted not having one of these when I take a set of "just in case" wires on runout semi-sport routes.

[slackline]

The Mentorship Gap : What Climbing Gyms Can't Teach You

[PipeSmoke]

Rock and Ice have re-published this article of Jonathan Thesenga's online (originally in the print mag about a year ago): "Climbing Deal Breakers". I feel it deserves an honourable mention in here just for the number of people he has wound up ... read the comments. Quite North American centric of course.

It's quite funny how offended the people in the comment section are

[petejh]

Has a pet named Denali, Lhotse, Makalu or Sharma.

At my younger son's school there are kids named Everest and Mckinley 

Defo a Canadian/US thing - the wife of one of my old climbing partners was called McKinley. Can't imagine it catching on in the UK - kids named Scafell? Although there are plenty called Ben...

Ref the Thesinga article - I'm massively CDB positive. Although the guy strikes me as a bit of a princess (is that me being faux american? deal breaker) - I remember watching him throwing a hissy fit and throwing his shoes down the crag in an epic sulk after not sending his goal route at Ceuse. The contrast between 'J-star', living the life in the apartment at the campsite, and Ondra, dossing in his van in the free parking lot, was stark. Ondra was throwing hissies too, whilst sending Jungle Boogie (9a+) and flashing Biographie/falling off the flash of realization.

[slackline]

Ref the Thesinga article - the guy strikes me as a bit of a princess (is that me being faux american? deal breaker) - I remember watching him throwing a hissy fit and throwing his shoes down the crag in an epic sulk after not sending his goal route at Ceuse. The contrast between 'J-star', living the life in the apartment at the campsite, and Ondra, dossing in his van in the free parking lot, was stark. Ondra was throwing hissies too, whilst sending Jungle Boogie (9a+) and flashing Biographie/falling off the flash of realization.

Isn't the "J-star (in orbit)" Jonathan Siegrest not Jonathan Thesinga (the author of the article) or does he use the same "name"?

[petejh]

Bollocks yes you're right. What a douche (I am).

[Teaboy]

less occasionally I definitely employ a stick-clip, though I don't actually own one.

This is a double transgression in my view, using a stick clip whilst trying to claim the moral high ground (I've been asked on more than one occasion if someone can borrow my 'cheat' stick).

I was guilty of several CDBs and had justification for each but then realised I should not try and justify my way out of them but just suck it up - anyone want to buy a clip stick?