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Re: benchmarks for the elderly (Read 994 times)

andy popp

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#150 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
November 11, 2019, 02:46:08 am
This is a great story! When I first started I got hold of a magazine, probably Mountain, with an article by or about Jones and Hudon that I read and reread obsessively, as you do as fourteen year old.

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/mark-hudon-63-climbs-freerider-99-7-free-as-can-be/?fbclid=IwAR0Y3BkUGKPSr4OCaFlbPVeneQAFgDnx2LpbM9wGjd_ax5TzomTHE4y6aMM

andy popp

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#151 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
November 11, 2019, 03:16:05 am
I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

Pretty certain Nick has extended this run another two years. I wouldn't bet against him stretching it to forty years.

duncan

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#152 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
November 17, 2019, 04:55:37 pm
48 year old grandfather Akira Waku has climbed Hydrangea (8C or C+, he thinks solid 8C+). Didnít start climbing til 35, I wonder if he had a background in a different sport before then?

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/48-year-old-akira-waku-of-japan-sends-v15-16-with-video/?cn-reloaded=1

Fiend

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#153 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
November 17, 2019, 05:57:20 pm
Gonna hazard a guess it wasn't a background in sodding toy soldier painting  :-\


Edit: Tattoos = ex-yakuza = hard as nails. Plus BMI in fractions not even whole numbers. Good fight / ascent!
« Last Edit: November 17, 2019, 06:12:12 pm by Fiend »

duncan

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#154 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
September 28, 2020, 09:41:27 pm
64 year old Chuck Odette climbs 8c.

I donít know anything about the route but have there been any other 60-somethings climbing this grade?

jwi

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#155 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
October 12, 2020, 06:51:31 am
Maple is well known for having variable difficulty as the the routes are usually getting easier over time as pebbles fall off and expose new pockets. I've been told that the trick is to climb the routes after they have gotten easier but before they are downgraded...

Fiend

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#156 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
February 16, 2021, 12:12:56 pm
44 - F9a+ - Iker Pou (FA of Great Guggenheim 9a+ in Mallorca , news on jens.nu)

tomtom

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#157 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
February 16, 2021, 12:21:19 pm
44 - F9a+ - Iker Pou (FA of Great Guggenheim 9a+ in Mallorca , news on jens.nu)

Since when is 44 elderly! Back around yoof.

Fiend

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#158 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
February 16, 2021, 12:41:56 pm
It's a bit of an outlier for 9a+ I think.....

DAVETHOMAS90

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#159 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
December 22, 2021, 09:32:43 pm
Looking for inspiration, I saw the title and thought "I'm sure she isn't quite that old.."  ;D

Strong OAP:


duncan

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#160 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
March 08, 2022, 05:55:58 pm
Yuji Hirayama again.

9a at 53 years old:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CawztQhl7Nr/

If confirmed I think this is a new benchmark.

jwi

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#161 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
March 08, 2022, 07:34:07 pm
Isn't this the second time he named a route hirayama (平山)? Then agin, he is Mr. Hirayama.

Note 平 carries both the connotations of flat/plain or peaceful, depending on context.

Edit: My bad, apparently he named a route フラットマウンテン (Flat mountain) which is a play on the reading of his family name.

SA Chris

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#162 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
May 02, 2022, 08:15:35 am
Not climbing, but skiing 96 days in a season at 96 years old is impressive. Great name too.

https://unofficialnetworks.com/2022/04/27/96-year-old-skier-snowbird/

Muenchener

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#163 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
May 02, 2022, 09:14:45 am
I bought myself my first set of touring skis for my 61st birthday, in anticipation of my body not being able to handle trying hard at sport climbing for much longer

Muenchener

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#164 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
May 02, 2022, 05:53:54 pm
Every winter there comes the point where I think xc skis would be handy around town, or at least in the suburbs where I live. For about a week.

mrjonathanr

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#165 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
May 02, 2022, 06:54:12 pm
I bought myself my first set of touring skis for my 61st birthday, in anticipation of my body not being able to handle trying hard at sport climbing for much longer

You should go trad climbing. Age presents no barrier to feeling scared.

SA Chris

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#166 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
May 02, 2022, 07:27:47 pm
Dunno, I've got much more feart as I've got older.

mrjonathanr

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#167 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
May 03, 2022, 09:26:10 am
Thatís what I said  ;)

SA Chris

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#168 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
May 03, 2022, 09:57:22 am
Sorry, misunderstood.

jwi

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#169 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
May 03, 2022, 10:07:48 am
This conversation about age and being cautious made me curious, so after some idle googling I found this newspaper article: Age influence perception of fear https://nocamels.com/2015/06/age-influences-perception-of-fear/

based on this paper: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352289515300217

The upshot is that young rats eliminate fear much quicker than old rats, since the fear extinction process in the prefrontal cortex works differently in young rats.

I was curious to see if there has been any experiments on humans, so I briefly checked papers that quoted the above paper, but I need to mark lots of hand-ins so I don't have time this week. For the future maybe.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2022, 10:16:42 am by jwi »

steveri

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#170 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
September 06, 2022, 10:40:21 am
Enjoyed this, Rob Matheson on a Nesscliffe E7 (72):


shark

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#171 Re: Re: benchmarks for the elderly
September 06, 2022, 10:58:38 am
Brilliant

seankenny

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#172 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
September 24, 2022, 01:13:44 pm
Alan Carne has done Crackaholic, an 8a trad route at Bohuslan. Sounds like quite a siege from his fb page (sorry I canít cut and paste the entry on my phone). Alan is 62 apparently, 8a at that age seems unusual but not groundbreaking, but how many people in their 60s are climbing that level on gear?


https://www.facebook.com/1246137439/posts/10228844252871558

remus

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#173 Re: benchmarks for the elderly
September 24, 2022, 04:34:58 pm
Quote
'Crackaholic' 8a Trad. (E8?) Bohuslan. Released but still in a state of shock processing the weeks of mental (and physical) battering this climb has been dealing out. A total war of attrition shared with  so many patient belayers. Success always so close yet so far, then an knee injury a couple weeks ago screamed 'Game Over' and almost exhausted the psych for this year. Glad I kept trying. Much thanks and gratitude to all my partners during the process. Jesper, Leo, Said Belhaj, Johan, Stefan ('The Wolfman'), and especially today Freja Shannon for the no stress encouragement and perfect catches.

 

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