[gme]

I know what the dictionary definition is but reading the rest of this topic it would appear that most people were looking at hardest.

Without the addition of what are we benchmarking such as "high level performance bench marking" or "beginner, intermediate and expert benchmarks" surely we can only assume that we are looking at the highest grade.

[slackline]

I didn't misname the thread. 


I think a much larger data set regardless of beginner/intermediate/expert/high level performance would be more interesting than cherry picking, but as I wrote don't have the inclination to gather that.

If you want to remove some you don't think should be in there and add in others you think should be and redraw the graphs you're free to do so (the main reason I've posted up the data, and code and some simple instructions for others to play with).

[gme]

I wasnt questioning your graph really, i was questioning the suggestions put forward that were included, especially the 8c at 40 ones which appear to be well below the benchmarks already suggested.

If benchmarks are to be the highest level climbed in certain age groups 8a? <10 ;9b <20; 9b+20s and 30s ;9a/9a+ 40s and 50s. Pretty simple really.

[slackline]

I've understood your question.  I included Eneko Pou ages ago before this thread was resurrected, probably because there had been a news item at the time and I'd not head of many other 40 year olds climbing 8c.  Beat Kammerlander's 8b+ at 50 falls outside the confidence interval for the fitted LOESS curve too, but....pull data points out and you change the fitted curve!!

I don't like grouping data into age bands myself, removes the fine resolution of the variation within.

I think the thread needs renaming as its very misleading.

If its to become highest level climbed at a given age then you'll only get one or two entries at each age.  I also still think it would be useful to have more data on more peoples hardest ascents at each age as it would then go some way to demonstrating how exceptional the hardest ascents at each age are because outliers of extreme performance are only interesting when placed in context of the variation that exists.



The code is quite flexible though so anyone could make their own personalised data set and plot their hardest climbs over against their age, for example if someone downloaded the script and made their own climbers_age.csv similar to this it would then plot it...

Code: [Select]

name,age,grade,gender
"me",21,6a,"male"
"me",22,6b,"male"
"me",23,6b,"male"
"me",24,6b,"male"
"me",25,6b,"male"
"me",26,6b,"male"
"me",27,6b,"male"
"me",28,6b+,"male"
"me",29,6b+,"male"
"me",30,6b+,"male"
"me",31,6b+,"male"
"me",32,6b+,"male"
"me",33,6b+,"male"
"me",34,6c,"male"
"me",35,6c,"male"
"me",36,6c+,"male"
"me",37,6c+,"male"


[rodma]

i think the name is fitting and your analysis of the data too. benchmarking is gooood 

[slackline]

Older Athletes Have a Strikingly Young Fitness Age

[Duma]

"The senior Olympics" yup, that's a national USA thing...

[tomtom]

I notice that the 'older persons' category at many climbing wall comps in the UK is 40 and above...

Obviously wanting to feel better about my own age - doesn't this seem a little low??

[petejh]

Older Athletes Have a Strikingly Young Fitness Age

Took that test (could only estimate max heart rate, it might be higher) and in cardiovascular terms I'm the age of an average 24 year-old woohoo! Though it did make me question whether the 'average 24 year-old' isn't as good a level of cardiovascular fitness as it might have been 24 years ago...

[Hoseyb]

I notice that the 'older persons' category at many climbing wall comps in the UK is 40 and above...

Obviously wanting to feel better about my own age - doesn't this seem a little low??

We tend to use 45 at the Beacon. Even then the 59's and 60's tend to win, too many legends residing in North Wales.

One of our Regulars; Ginger Cain, is leading 6a indoors, and has a back like Lou Ferrino, due to getting an annual pass to while away his retirement, Seem to remember he's 83+. Joe Brown says Ginger is the fittest/strongest he's ever been since he's known him.

Sheila Maskrey was still getting up F6a+s recently and shes late 70's.

The Rock and Ice crowd tend to congregate at the wall on Fridays, and the average age rises to about 65 or so...

[SA Chris]

I notice that the 'older persons' category at many climbing wall comps in the UK is 40 and above...

Obviously wanting to feel better about my own age - doesn't this seem a little low??

Ours used to be 45, until the year I turned 45 they moved it to 40. Now I have to compete with these young early 40s whippersnappers. Not as bad as when I used to compete with 20 year olds when I was in my early 40s I guess.

[fatneck]

The Climbing Hangar have a policy of increasing the age annually to stop Andy Farnell entering... Entertaining!

*This may not be strictly true but I'm sure there was some controversy involving said Farnell and a kick off about the age range...

[SA Chris]

Apparently the 45 at ours was introduced a while back to wind up one particular strong individual (not me I hasten to add).

[tomtom]

I notice that the 'older persons' category at many climbing wall comps in the UK is 40 and above...

Obviously wanting to feel better about my own age - doesn't this seem a little low??

Ours used to be 45, until the year I turned 45 they moved it to 40. Now I have to compete with these young early 40s whippersnappers. Not as bad as when I used to compete with 20 year olds when I was in my early 40s I guess.

That's my problem and I'm shit at indoor climbing. *other climbing types may be similar.

[shark]

The only comp I've ever done was a couple of years ago at Rockover and came second in the vets catergory to someone who'd only turned 40 that week.

[SA Chris]

Look at you.

[tomtom]

Down ever since eh?

[shark]

Where's my fucking medal ?

[shark]

Oh yes and I beat Hank Pasquil which basically means I'm better than Ryan..

[tomtom]

Where's my fucking medal ?

Xx

[lagerstarfish]

some inspiration for the young folk

http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/get-inspired/34665818

[nik at work]

Forgot about this thread. A couple weeks ago Doug (60) did a new spicy trad route. About french 8a/+ he hasn't given me a trad grade yet but I'd imagine top end E8/E9 7a. He's getting close to his harder project also...

[Grubes]

Still going bloody strong. Guess he might slow down a bit now strictly is back on

[davej]

awesome Dougie Hall?

[nik at work]

Still going bloody strong. Guess he might slow down a bit now strictly is back on

Yes Dougie Hall