[andy popp]

Feel like we should have this here (apologies if its been posted before):

[andy popp]

I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

[Muenchener]

That's one hell of a plateau 

[kelvin]

Good effort is that - the same one every year might not have the same resonance. (wadded BTW Munch)

I was thinking perhaps a 'Benchmarks for the broken' thread might a good idea, something along the lines of Deliverance with a broken left wrist or 3 Pebble Slab with only two toes.

[petejh]

Devil's Slide with no hands..

[lagerstarfish]

I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

I'm not trying to belittle practice, but is that E8 onsight every year?

[shark]

Steve Crowe has set a new uk benchmark having just redpointed an 8b+ at 60 years young.

Logged on 8a.nu : Mundo Feliz at Villanueva del Rosario

[jwi]

  PB grade-wise as well, I take it?

[remus]

I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

I'm not trying to belittle practice, but is that E8 onsight every year?

I'd be surprised if it was onsight, Nick's always been a headpoint wad in my mind.

[shark]

PB grade-wise as well, I take it?

Yes. A PB too. Which gives hope to us all

[andy popp]

I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

I'm not trying to belittle practice, but is that E8 onsight every year?

I'd be surprised if it was onsight, Nick's always been a headpoint wad in my mind.

I thought Lagers' comment was a little off to be honest. Even now, onsights of E8 and E9 are quite rare and tend to be concentrated in relatively hard and relatively safe routes (e.g. in Pembroke) that aren't necessarily Nick's forte. Even if none of Nick's ascents were onsight/ground up (though I'd be surprised if there weren't some in there somewhere) I doubt anyone can match such a level of performance over such a long, unbroken period of time.

[T_B]

I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

I'm not trying to belittle practice, but is that E8 onsight every year?

I'd be surprised if it was onsight, Nick's always been a headpoint wad in my mind.

I thought Lagers' comment was a little off to be honest. Even now, onsights of E8 and E9 are quite rare and tend to be concentrated in relatively hard and relatively safe routes (e.g. in Pembroke) that aren't necessarily Nick's forte. Even if none of Nick's ascents were onsight/ground up (though I'd be surprised if there weren't some in there somewhere) I doubt anyone can match such a level of performance over such a long, unbroken period of time.

Agreed. It's phenomenal to maintain that level of psyche for so many years. I think I led E5 every year for 22 years until five years ago. Most people at least seem to have a break at some point (job/kids etc).

[andy popp]

To your last point Tom, Nick has probably worked continuously throughout that period and has had four children (and one grandchild now).

[Luke Owens]

Impressive that Nick has maintained that standard for so long but it really doesn't surprise me as he is one of the most psyched people I've ever met!

I used to spend quite a bit of time at Nesscliffe and he'd nearly always appear at some point, running up to the crag in a pair of leggings, do a lap or two on the 7B Berlin Wall traverse, run up to the Terrace and do laps on the 7C trav up there. All while having a chat and just being super positive. I'm pretty sure this was part of his school run!

He's a keen runner and cyclist as well, all this with plenty of kids like Andy said. He really is an inspiration.

Those who have him on Facebook have probably seen he's still up at Nesscliffe all the time, does laps on the 8A version of the terrace trav now and has been trying a hard route project there which Caff has been trying to, something up around vert 8c I think, crazy!

[lagerstarfish]

I hesitate to imply that Nick Dixon is old, but I learnt today he's climbed E8 (or E9) every year since 1986 - that's 31 years.

I'm not trying to belittle practice, but is that E8 onsight every year?

I'd be surprised if it was onsight, Nick's always been a headpoint wad in my mind.

I thought Lagers' comment was a little off to be honest. Even now, onsights of E8 and E9 are quite rare and tend to be concentrated in relatively hard and relatively safe routes (e.g. in Pembroke) that aren't necessarily Nick's forte. Even if none of Nick's ascents were onsight/ground up (though I'd be surprised if there weren't some in there somewhere) I doubt anyone can match such a level of performance over such a long, unbroken period of time.

yes, I didn't write that very well
 

I have no idea about ground up standards

[shark]

Steve Crowe has set a new uk benchmark having just redpointed an 8b+ at 60 years young.

Logged on 8a.nu : Mundo Feliz at Villanueva del Rosario

.

More on Steve's achievement: https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/karin-magog-and-steve-crowe-redpoint-mundo-felix-f8b.html

[andy popp]

When Angus Kille did Indian Face the other day, Johnny Dawes and Nick Dixon also happened to be at the crag. Johnny established a new E7 (Island, right of the Drainpipe Crack) and Nick did the second ascent. Over the last couple of weeks Nick has also done Authentic Desire and Fecundity Ridge, both E7. Nothing spectacular but its nice to see these two still climbing together some 35 years after it all began.

[gme]

I am constantly impressed with what the 50 year olds are doing, can’t wait to get there.

[andy popp]

Since Johnny did the E7 right of the Drainpipe, Nick has done what he's describing as the true direct on Curving Arete, another E7, Johnny has done the wall left of November, E6, and just today Nick a line breaking left out of Troach; haven't seen a grade for this one yet but Nick describes it as gnarly and dangerous so I would guess its at least another E7.

[SA Chris]

2 old men transforming the profile of the crag over the space of a couple of days. Awesome.

[Neil F]

2 old men transforming the profile of the crag over the space of a couple of days. Awesome.

Fixed that for you Chris.

 

[mark20]

Any photos of these latest Cloggy routes about?

[andy popp]

There are plenty on Nick's FB page,  haven't seen any elsewhere.

[mark20]

Mick Lovatt has made the 3rd ascent of the steep and loose Requiem for a Vampire (E8 6b) 

https://www.facebook.com/dmmclimbing/photos/a.191468200900971.48257.120904307957361/1788430127871429/?type=3&theater

[andy popp]

Phil Davidson has been ticking E7 and E8 this year, after what I think has been a pretty long lay off.