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Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022 (Read 2728 times)

Duma

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Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 18, 2022, 08:10:18 pm
M - Still grumpy at not sport climbing. Ogmore bouldering as back up plan. despite good tides and forecast it was hot, humid, spotting with rain, and most of the trench was still wet from the sea. Spent half an hour failing on the only dry thing there, Oyster 6C, seemed nails. Gave up waiting for it to dry and got on the main event, Scoop Dragon 6C. Took a couple of goes, but it's as good as they say, and pretty terrifying, especially when damp. Low start (7A+) was excellent too. Bunch more unsuccessful attempts on Oyster. Did something on the other side of the arete at not too far off the right grade, but the description and line in the guide are clear it's the left side. Did the (damp) 7A  next to it Whelk as consolation, also really good. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. 12 hr night shift.
T - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. 12 hr night shift.
W - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. 12 hr night shift.
T - 12 hr night shift. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
F - am few hours sleep. Pm Cheddar, Remnant. Dogged up Everyday Lives of Ordinary People to warm up as I know the top well from the spring, and to get clips in for partner who was working it, then managed to OS Act of Vengeance 7b. Happy with this as not only been a while since I've tied in outdoors (2 months), but also was rapidly running out of gas in an awkward position but managed to reassess and find a better hold before the tank ran dry. Then took my first looks at Bristol Weed 8a+. First dog up was promising, did all but one hand movement, though mostly just individually, and plenty of footwork still to sort out. Second go was excellent, ground to 2 moves from the end of the crux sequence, also all the foot moves and repeated the last two moves of the crux straight away. Buzzing - this would be a big deal for me, it was one of the first hard routes I heard about as a new climber in the SW in the early nineties so holds a bit of an aura in my eyes.
S -
S - Cheddar, Freaky wall. Warmed up on the 6b+ (The Numb Ones), then a short-lived flash go on Scarred Mind 7c, took a while to work out a sequence through the crux bulge, and sat on the bolts a bit on the still techy upper groove. Second go completely messed up the beta, but pulled straight back on and linked the crux. 3rd go did it, really enjoyed chilling out at the balancy hands off rest, and then smooth through the top half. Then tried Shock Of The New 7b+, this was a bit of a gap in my Cheddar CV, although I'd done the top section via other routes a few times. Not close to flashing the crux moves, but worked them out pretty quick and went to the top, though got pretty pumped doing so. Others were working it then so tried an OS of Big Mac Regurgitator 7b. Dropped it low down, and still seemed tough extended sequence above that. Back on SotN as felt I had more chance of completing a hard 1 move crux than a longer set of moves. Managed crux fine but just scraped up the pumpy top by the skin of my teeth, really good fight. Last go on BMR, but no chance, tank was empty. Really fun day with good mates

70 kg
2022 plank total 260 min

Liamhutch89

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#1 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 18, 2022, 10:58:20 pm
Lost just under 2kg this week in an attempt to sneak my project over the line. Dieting is grim.

T - Limit board session. Ended up not being totally limit as I finally sent a longstanding unfinished problem. Felt like the hardest thing i've ever climbed but it's a bit anti-style so probably not that hard. 4x5 weighted ring muscle ups +15kg, full front lever holds 8x3s with perfect form. First time i;ve tried them in a while, absolutely desperate at 6'2 and miles harder than 1 armers!

W - 45 min mobility

T - fingerboard pickups. 6 sets in half crimp at 61.25kg. 4x3 strict standing military press 70kg.

F - 1 hour mobility

S - Jelly of the Beast, Odin's cave. Good conditions and felt confident. Warmed up doing small links then first go from the bottom, floated through it, did the last hard move from where it should be undroppable, then proceeded to drop it when my toe hook slipped out NNFN! For the next half an hour I seemed to forget how to use my feet, but finally got it together and had a few more decent goes powering out on the last hard move. Forearms and toe hooking shin muscle were dead so went into Castleton for 2 hours, came back and all I managed was to get a massive flapper. Was gutted, but in hindsight it was the closest i've gotten so far and I know that I can do it. It's just a race against for clock before the weather turns and it starts to seep. The crash diet continues.

James Malloch

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#2 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 10:26:07 am
Missed a few weeks on here.

29-4 Sept:

Last few days in Cornwall (inc. a day of surfing which was great fun, but not great conditions.
Went to Bristol on 2nd Sept. Easy climbing on the Saturday with some friends and their Kids. Then went to Burton Combe on Sunday for a few hours. Did the 7A traverse and some of the up problems up to about 6C.

5-11 Sept:

Dog training session on the Monday with a Gundog Trainer. Nice to have a few bits to work on and seeing a lot of change within the first 24 hours. Birthday on Tuesday pottering around Bristol. London on Thursday. Climb at Big Rock Bond on Saturday. Feeling pretty good bouldering which was nice. Drove back to Skipton on Sunday.

12 - 18 Sept:

M. Planing & Acro. Decided to take the easy option for Autumn/Winter and head to Spain & Portugal. Thought about the balkans/Italy/Greece but Spain will be fun, social and easy.

T.

W. Drove to friends in Kirkcaldy, Scotland. DOg walk and fish and chips.

T. Went to Erie up the coast. Nice walk around the coast and then fishing at sunset. Caught plenty of Mackerel and Pollack on Feathers. 3/4 at once multiple times. Ate well for days.

F. Drove to Pitlochry and did a nice local walk.

S. Another local walk (10 miles).

S. Bit of a meh day so drove up to Aviemore. Picked up some supplies and now parked up just below Cairn Gorm.  Beautiful place but a bit crappy weather. Washed in the Loch after 4 days without a shower. 14 degrees is cold! Though it was also surprisingly pleasant…




Planning to be in Scotland for a few weeks - probably just walking though may have a climb if the weather gets inspiring enough. Bit of a shame but it’s a lovely place to be and really enjoying a bit of a break from climbing. Plenty of time to get on a rope again with 3 months in Spain!
« Last Edit: September 19, 2022, 10:32:47 am by James Malloch »

AMorris

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#3 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 11:45:32 am
Thought I would drop into this thread again, first time in a while!

Finger status: pretty f***ed to be honest, but enjoying trying to climb using only a chisel on my left hand. If I can actually pull on a hold using this grip, it turns out I can pull relatively hard. Ratty vert might as well be 8C though.

Been boiling my training back to absolute basics recently, which involves just doing a lot of weighted pull ups and rollouts. No hangboarding outside of warming up for climbing. Climbing happens about 1-2x a week and consists of short (45-90 min) sessions on the 55, with plenty of rest. Been cycling more than climbing recently (I know, I know, I'm a traitor), and entered a Gran Fondo in Wales next summer, so lots of training over the winter.

M - Ramp test on Zwift to calculate pre-winter FTP. 10x10 explosive pull ups +10kg. 5x10 rollouts.

T - Short ride on Zwift. 10x10 explosive pull ups +10kg. 5x10 rollouts.

W - As above

T - Alpe D'Huez on Zwift. Felt hard, but managed just over an hour. Honestly surprised myself that I even got up it.

F - Session on the 55. Did the stand start to my hard pinch project. Core felt pretty taxed from the previous days exertions, so anything tensiony felt fairly unmanageable. Happy with my progress on my projects.

S - Day in the saddle. Started in Port Talbot, over Sardis Hill, up Neath Valley towards Glynneath, then up and Over Rhigos and the Bwlch. Back to Cardiff from here. 102km and just over 1400m climbed. Kept it low intensity on the hills to try and work out what my pacing will be for the big one in June.

S - Hour high-cadence recovery ride. 10x10 explosive pull ups +10kg. 5x10 rollouts.

Scatter in a few house viewings (HATE :furious:) and being v busy at work, and I have had quite a tiring week. I am going to need to include some full rest days so I don't end up burning out over the winter. Still, actually quite good all round, which is nice. Apologies for the mention of cycling, hopefully there will be at least 1 person here who isn't utterly repulsed by the mention of it!

duncan

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#4 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 11:46:56 am
Also remember the reporting of the FA of Bristol Weed, when 8a+s were news!

M - Fingerboard: sharp pulls with left hand (3s, 95% RPE) and moderate load with the right (50% RPE) on a small edge with various grips. Gingerly hung off both arms on a 40mm edge.
T - 11km walk including a very short shuffle.
W - Fingerboard. As above, speed pulls on small edge with L hand, cautious loading on small edge with R. Cautious hangs with both on 40mm edge.
T - 10km walk including a short shuffle. Shoulder conditioning avoiding anything too wristy: side planks on elbows, bar hangs.
F - Fingerboard as above. 10km walk,
S - Fingerboard, 35mm edge: this was a bit too much for now so binned this fairly quickly. 10km walk and short shuffle.
S - Walked 9km.

Easy / wrist rehab. week. Plan: more of the same.


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#5 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 02:36:57 pm
M: Lower body stretching. Press-ups and shoulder press. Hollow body holds. 2 mile walk

T: Upper body mobility. G1. Fingerboard test 20mm 7s up to +75lb. 6 in 6 workout on V5s on 45deg kilter + 1 V4, 1 V5, 6 V6.

W: Lower body stretching. G1. Core. Shoulder press and press-ups

T: Forearm mobility. G1. Max hangs 85% 7s 20mm +37.5lb *6. Limit boulders on Kilter 45deg, V8 X5*3. Managed to flash one V8 and send another 4th go. Good amount of failures / progress on others. Linked boulders at V4-6 range c.12 moves X4 *3

F: Floor Core

S: Wild Basin. Sword boulders. Had very poor directions to find these no often-done boulders. 20 mins approach took an hour. Boulders were well worth the hike though. Warmed up sending Sword Swallower V4 second go and flashing Queen of Swords V5. Took a bit to work out the top then even more for the bottom of Live by the Sword, Die by the Sword V8 but eventually put it down. First V8 since honeymoon, psyched.

shark

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#6 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 03:44:03 pm
Thanks Duma


11.6-7 average 161.2 +1.2lb
 
M.

T. Tor. AM Home warm up. Beautiful autumnal morning driving out. Tor. Bens. Cross thru at first attempt. A couple of goes to do the setup and kick. Took a few goes to do the throw move and did it twice but looking at video I’m still dynamic on it. (Can post vid if anyone interested) Did the set up and throw. Was short of time so left it at that.
Eve Foot on campussing. Bit compromised by morning tor session

W



F Early AM Home warm up. Stunning light driving out. Tor for 8am. 7 degrees. Mint . Two tie ins reacquainting myself with Cross N’Angry 8a+. First tie mainly reworked headwall section. Second tie in did pretty well linking 9 moves from the Prow hole to tickling the sharp sidehold pinch on the headwall (2 hand moves and 4 foot moves from there to the break) but could only aid to break and above crucifixion roof though was surprisingly good on Crucifixion crux with moves quickly coming back together. 
Nick ticked Half Decent 7c.

S

S.

M. Early AM Home warm up up. Tor. 8am. Overcast. Nick looking glum - he’d tweaked a tendon in his wrist so was just on belay duty. Two tie ins on CN’A. Worked headwall and then linked from third move out of Prow hole to break comfortably on top rope - 9 moves. Second go up whole route in sections. Foot too low on Push Up and fell off crux so pulled past. Linked from there to Prow hole and clipped in. Then linked Prow hole to grabbing QuickDraw in middle of headwall - 6 moves. Couple of goes from bolt but ended up pulling past. Linked from the rest on the Prow to Crucifixion crux. Few dogging goes on crux then linked from middle of crux section to belay. Stripped it . Was still only mid morning. Good session.

Weight back up a bit though feeling leaner.
Enjoying being on Cross N Angry particularly in good conditions. Was shocked looking at my diary to see I had 31 sessions on it last year from June through to November. A lot were in poor conditions and burnt myself out. This year deliberately avoided getting sucked into it over the summer in and happier for it. Should be able to get 4 sessions on it before going to the US which won’t be nearly enough though it could potentially be dry when I’m back in November. Feels good to be a bit stronger on it. Be interesting to see how close I get.

For reference the whole route breaks down into a short gnarly 10m wall Push Up 7b+ which replaces climbing the tree that was cut down. Then the old first pitch of the Prow at about 7b to a good rest at a hole in a break then the headwall above which is a 12 move steep bouldery section on small holds to a poor break where you rejoin the Prow just above at a not great shakeout on jugs but hanging out on steep ground. From there you finish up the pumpy pillar of Crucifixion at about 7c. 
« Last Edit: September 19, 2022, 04:03:31 pm by shark »

Will Hunt

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#7 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 04:56:05 pm
M : light repeaters
T: Glen potter. Did a recently added 7A that's probably a bit easier than that. Went for a 720 no scope pad whump but thwarted by oak tree. Project. Will return.



F : went to try trad proj after work. Got to the parking and realised I'd left chalk bag at home because I'm a stupid twat. Not enough daylight to go back and get it so went in to try without it. Think I stuck the first hard move and figured out some new holds for the top bit but holds turned to mooge after a few touches. Have done two halves but linking those halves probably involves something hard.

Su: Eavestone. Cleaned and headpunted Dragonslayer then made Andy endure a belay on Eavestone Crack. It had looked clean enough from below and almost was. Dogged and brushed and figured out a reachy and beefy sequence avoiding most of the jamming. May return. Then belayer Andy on The Alamo which is better and bolder then I remember.

Nibile

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#8 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 05:27:52 pm
Power Club

Mon - front levers 6"x10. Bar work. Squat.
Tue - barbell good mornings, bentover rows, high pulls. One armers.
Wed - BM, press, TBDL static holds.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - front levers, bar work.
Sat - weights.
Sun - pull ups.


Duma

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#9 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 07:16:53 pm
Well done Nick for belay duty when injured!

Thanks for the breakdown shark, can follow a bit more now. Is there any significant rest between Push Up and the the first pitch of The Prow?

shark

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#10 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 09:47:50 pm
Well done Nick for belay duty when injured!

Thanks for the breakdown shark, can follow a bit more now. Is there any significant rest between Push Up and the the first pitch of The Prow?

Yep. Stoic support from Nick. Yes decent shake at the end but your tips are throbbing by the time you get there as the holds are so small and sharp. The whole thing is a fantastic route but the history of it means it’s been cobbled together from different routes even though it’s a cool line in its own right. Feels amazing up there on it even now. 

SA Chris

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#11 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 19, 2022, 10:32:38 pm


Picked up some supplies and now parked up just below Cairn Gorm.  Beautiful place but a bit crappy weather. Washed in the Loch after 4 days without a shower. 14 degrees is cold! Though it was also surprisingly pleasant…


http://boulderingnearaviemore.blogspot.com/2011/04/link-road-boulder.html

link road boulder is just up the hill. lovely scenic outlook.

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 20, 2022, 08:31:52 am
Apologies for the mention of cycling, hopefully there will be at least 1 person here who isn't utterly repulsed by the mention of it!

Good for me, Zwift on the other hand..

Best thing I found for doing the etapes was hill reps. Brutally hard, but very effective, especially when time limited. I'd never done a training ride over 70km before the day of the event. Sure webbo can give more advice.

webbo

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#13 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 20, 2022, 09:48:43 am
Apologies for the mention of cycling, hopefully there will be at least 1 person here who isn't utterly repulsed by the mention of it!

Good for me, Zwift on the other hand..

Best thing I found for doing the etapes was hill reps. Brutally hard, but very effective, especially when time limited. I'd never done a training ride over 70km before the day of the event. Sure webbo can give more advice.
What you are doing seems fine to me. One thing you might try is on your shorter long rides, the ones around 100K ;)Try going hard for the last 20K I find this helps me to sustain a decent pace on a longer ride. I’m pretty sure I read there was some science behind his as well.
Also learn to sit on someone’s wheel.

SA Chris

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#14 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 20, 2022, 10:18:05 am
Also learn to sit on someone’s wheel.

This. Learn to chain (or strategically jump on the back of passing ones!).

Duncan Disorderly

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#15 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 21, 2022, 11:42:38 am
Stamina Club

M: 4x4 @ AW - F6b'ish
T: Redpoint Session @ AW - 3rd day on, GF not feeling it... Got on a F7a+ and rinsed the moves but ended up having to go for an early bath or risk sleeping on the sofa.
W: Rest, stretching and planks
T: Sheaf Boulder - Planned to use this as a PE session but really just wanted to see how I was going as the last time I tried the full traverse (graded 6C+ but really more like F7b [or harder], especially with my whack pinch beta)... Fucking crushed it! Considering I couldn't actually touch the crux moves the last time I was on it this is a real win (had a little YYFY moment requiring an apology to kids and parents in the adjacent park...). Wasn't sure what to do with myself afterwards so I decided to have another go after a rest... Only bloody did it again... Great!
F: Rest
S: Rest - Coming down with a cold.
S: DJ in a field - Full blown cold.

Good week - Kaly on Friday so resting up (re. surfing and stretching) and getting over this bloody cold that's just hit me - hoping for post-illness gains! Surprised myself on the Sheaf bloc, super psyched for 3 weeks in paradise!! Ace!

mr chaz

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#16 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 22, 2022, 12:04:32 pm
Late entry...

M. Max hangs, 1 arm, 8kg assistance.
T.
W.
T. Board session - nothing remarkable.
F.
S.
S. Had planned to meet brother in the Peak. Showers forecast, so binned it off and went indoor climbing for first time in around 6 months. Total leap into the unknown in terms of performance, having only trained on my current home setup post injury (1 yr) and basically doing no indoor climbing for the last 2 years. Flashed a load of purples and climbed a couple of yellows at the Depot so was pretty happy with that! Faded very quickly and finger pulp was screaming after 2.5 hrs.

Added bonus, slipped easily this morning into a pair of trousers that I haven't been able to wear for the last year, YYFY!

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#17 Re: Power Club 662 12 - 18 Sep 2022
September 23, 2022, 12:12:20 pm
Apologies for the mention of cycling, hopefully there will be at least 1 person here who isn't utterly repulsed by the mention of it!

Good for me, Zwift on the other hand..

Best thing I found for doing the etapes was hill reps. Brutally hard, but very effective, especially when time limited. I'd never done a training ride over 70km before the day of the event. Sure webbo can give more advice.


What you are doing seems fine to me. One thing you might try is on your shorter long rides, the ones around 100K ;)Try going hard for the last 20K I find this helps me to sustain a decent pace on a longer ride. I’m pretty sure I read there was some science behind his as well.
Also learn to sit on someone’s wheel.

Cheers both! I often intend to do hill reps, but then end up just continuing to the next hill instead :lol: not like they are in short supply round here! For whatever reason, the idea of cycling back down a hill and doing it again is less appealing than just stringing a load of different hills together. I am loving zwift at the moment for its structured training blocks and can absolutely see it taking the place of things like hill reps for structured training. It's just so convenient when the weather is bad, and you don't have to contend with traffic and lights.

Also, I would love to sit on someone's wheel, but I never cycle with anyone!

 

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