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GRIT BLOCS (Read 13285 times)

Bradders

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#25 Re: GRIT BLOCS
September 26, 2022, 07:26:31 pm
Well you're not wrong Will  ;)

Fiend

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#26 Re: GRIT BLOCS
October 05, 2022, 11:56:17 am
Whilst revising this coffee table book (if you don't drink coffee, don't use a table, and don't like books, then indeed it might not be for you) on the shitter this morning (topically the after-effects of the coffee), I amused myself by reading the intro quote:

Quote
They must be legitimate boulder problems rather than routes or solos masquerading as problems...

And then coming up with the list of which ones were original routes / had route grades in the beer towel solo format...

Jumping Jack Flash E1 5c
Steve's Wall E1 5b
Successor State E4 6b
Poetry In Motion E2 6a
Syrett's Roof E3 6b
Needle Of Dreams E4 6b
DIY E3 6a
Careless Torque E6 7a
Westside Story E4 7a
All Quiet On The Eastern Front E1 6a
The Art Of White Hat Wearing E5 6c
Superbloc E8 7a
Finger Of Fate E2 6a
Charlie's Overhang E2 5c
Tierdrop E5 6b
Velvet Silence E6 6c

(Yes I was bored for the 1 1/2 minutes it took me to remember / research this. I did JJF, Steve's Wall, Poetry, DIY, All Quiet and Finger Of Fate as normal solos, as well as 95% of Charlies Overhang before falling off, flipping over in mid-air - which saved me from neck-snapping paraplegia - and breaking my heel. Pre-pads BS huh  ::) ).

mrjonathanr

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#27 Re: GRIT BLOCS
October 05, 2022, 05:51:06 pm

Velvet Silence E6 6c


Not sure I'd fall off the upper arete of that and maintain it's just a little boulder problem.

Fiend

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#28 Re: GRIT BLOCS
October 05, 2022, 06:35:00 pm
You need more send-train-bellend pad-parties then! Or younger legs.....

moose

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#29 Re: GRIT BLOCS
October 05, 2022, 10:53:33 pm
Snaketongue Truffleclub isn't very good in my opinion. Cool feature, but climbing is a bit nasty and not actually anything special. You just pull up on sharp crimps... Literally over the road from High Crag is Rowantree Tor where you will find Gladiator: another mushroom type boulder but a much better problem.

Despite previous differences where Yorkshire scrittle fondling is concerned, I completely agree with Will here.  Snaketongue Truffleclub looks good but is at best a mediocre climb (possibly poor).  I did it last Sunday - a striking feature but the holds are simultaneously small, rough, sharp, sandy in places, and the top is lichenous.  Basically, it's an awkward sit start to get stood up (toe-hook), then just pain tolerance / ability to crimp and avoid cuts to gain higher holds and top-out on moss.

The forecast looks okay for the weekend, so hopefully I will get a session at Rowantree Tor to see how Gladiator compares.  I have had a bit of a shift in my expectations / hopes recently - it used to be all "big game hunting" - short sessions working stuff that I find really hard.  Now, I am  happier to tootle around easier circuits - just being outside is reward enough,

Alex-the-Alex

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#30 Re: GRIT BLOCS
October 06, 2022, 12:48:44 am


I liked both. Gladiator and truffleclub. The zero wall nearby is good too. But maybe not worth driving for.

Moose, if you're looking for good easy circuits, and you haven't been before, skip Rowantree and head over to Ash Head! You won't regret it!

Will Hunt

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#31 Re: GRIT BLOCS
October 06, 2022, 09:26:09 am
Hopefully I haven't oversold Rowantree now. There's a nice circuit there. Grades seemed pretty unforgiving. Some of the landings are a bit rocky so take good foam. This probably hasn't been repeated: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=30466.0

If you finish up there and still have energy then Pok-A-Tok is really good at Nought Bank if you haven't done it.

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#32 Re: GRIT BLOCS
October 06, 2022, 10:51:07 am
No not at all, I'm probably underselling it. I don't know if I'd drive miles just for G wall and Truffleclub, but with Rowantree, Far Crag, and all of Guisecliff within two minutes its a cracking day out!

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#33 Re: GRIT BLOCS
December 02, 2022, 07:28:02 pm
Okay better late than never but surely there's some opportunities to put this mighty "not a ticklist" tome into action at the moment?? Especially given the length and breadth of problems covered....

Bonus points for the first people to post about ticking something new to them that they only discovered in this book...

Fiend

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#34 Re: GRIT BLOCS
May 07, 2024, 09:27:14 am
Bonus points for the first people to post about ticking something new to them that they only discovered in this book...
:2thumbsup: Sure it's a bit warm now (although DPiddy does highlight a lot of shady and/or moorland grit options), but back in winter I had some good times exploring some new-to-me problems in Grit Bloques....Part 1 in Yorkshire....


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#35 Re: GRIT BLOCS
May 07, 2024, 10:05:49 am
Those look great, nice one Fiend.

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#36 Re: GRIT BLOCS
May 16, 2024, 08:33:25 am
And Part 2 in The Peak District....


 

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