[Fiend]

The forecast is 11'c at Stanage this weekend, Shark has booked in for a lagerstarfish slab masterclass, and hopefully people are realising that limestone is pretty wank and there will be a Call in the next couple of months.

So what you really need in your life is some GRIT BLOCS.



Yup the new pleasingly slimline coffee table magnum opus by ex-UKB bantmaster AND lankmaster P Diddy is here (who notably did once slag off the term "bloc" and didn't like my idea of using "bloque" instead), and it's a great celebration of the diversity and exploration of grit bouldering all across the Pennines. I suspect even the most jaded scrittle botherer will see something they'd never heard of or never seen images of before, and likely at a grade you personally can climb too 

[petejh]

Those pads looks like they were thrown down. Just saying.

Also, obvious lamplight in outdoors photos.. am I the only person who finds this a bit meh aesthetically? I mean when it's obviously not natural light.

Apart from those moans, looks ace! 

[Duma]

This does look ace, but I remain pretty mystified at the choice of cover shot - its seems well below pretty much every other pic I've seen from inside.

Also - lower case letters in font grades...

[shark]

Are you on commission?

[remus]

This does look ace, but I remain pretty mystified at the choice of cover shot - its seems well below pretty much every other pic I've seen from inside.

The cover shot was decided by a vote on insta or twitter if I remember. Democracy in action.

[Fiend]

This does look ace, but I remain pretty mystified at the choice of cover shot - its seems well below pretty much every other pic I've seen from inside choice.

Also - lower case letters in font grades...

A disgrace on both counts. The latter is unforgiveable. The former, I agree with you, i could pick a dozen shots inside I'd prefer for the cover - the very last entry shot might be my favourite.

The one more serious if small complaint I have is the lack of grades for the otherwise nicely inserted alternative / nearby suggestions.


Shark: i'm on comission from Lagerstarfish Industries Smearfest 2022. Starting the event campaign early...

[Ross Barker]

I'm on comission from Lagerstarfish Industries Smearfest 2022. Starting the event campaign early...

Might possibly get more attendees if it had a slightly more appetising name than "Smearfest", but count me in!

[Bonjoy]

This does look ace, but I remain pretty mystified at the choice of cover shot - its seems well below pretty much every other pic I've seen from inside.

There was an online vote. Mine was for JB in a grey t shirt on a nameless arete at Grinah. Great shot, but a bit subtle to win a vote on insta.

Also - lower case letters in font grades...

#OldSkool

Some might say this was a great opportunity for UKB to eat humble pie, and invite Dave back on to sell his lovely new book. Just saying.

[Carliios]

Picked up a copy and spent a lazy Saturday afternoon reading the whole thing. I did indeed see a load of new blocs I’ve added to the wishlist. Serious lack of yarncliffe lowball choss content though I must say 

[cheque]

obvious lamplight in outdoors photos

Surely you’ve come across flash photography before?

[Johnny Brown]

Pete had best steer clear of the Northumberland guide!

To be fair to Dave there isn’t loads of flash work in the book and most of it is extremely well done, bringing the climber out without being obviously lit. There aren’t many climbing photographers who can do that, and I suspect most people won’t even notice.

[Fiend]

Okay. Temps have dropped, Shark is failing on Cross And Angry again, a call must be imminent, so lets get some grit psyche on. Presumably you've all got a copy now so how about a few opinions:


1. Personal favourite problems in the book??

2. Problems you think are most valid / valuable / worth including??

3. Problems you think shouldn't have been in??

4. Problems you've never heard of / seen before that you're now massively psyched for??

5. Preferred alternate cover photo given there's obviously Opinions about the current one??


For me:

1. Archery - obviously, but it's quite special to me ever since I first saw it.
Andesterone - I had such a great day up here and it was a pleasure to see Dave and Rob enjoy it too.
Needle Of Dreams - a rare moment of feeling like a proper highball, loved it.

2. Smiling Buttress - I really like this choice because it's an amazing looking problem, has history, and has no send-trainage so far whatsoever.

3. The Geminid Trail - my gut instinct that this comes into condition one day per year.
Westside Story - there's a few ultra-send-train picks and this is maybe the most honeypotty.

4. Lots for various reasons: Trust (okay I've recced this but it's a good reminder it could be LH Golfer's elbow safe), Aurora, Snaketongue Truffleclub, Mr Incredible, Appliance Friction (looks ace), Bigger Than A Bee...

5. Flying Arete - despite some qualms about toss like Almscliff being in at all, I really like the clear geometries and unusually effective muted colours in this shot.
Velvet Silence - no muted colours here. I like Nige's fruity style, but especially this capturing the pure essence of faith-in-friction grit so well.
Spike - maybe not the best climber position, but it's a strong lump of grit bloc.

[Wellsy]

I dont have the book yet, but I like that Appliance Friction is in there. One of the coolest things I've ever climbed, at my favourite grit crag.

[Will Hunt]

Gemenid Trail is not as hard to find in condition as you might think. It's had loads of ascents this year so people are getting there and keeping it in nick. It's really very good.

Snaketongue Truffleclub isn't very good in my opinion. Cool feature, but climbing is a bit nasty and not actually anything special. You just pull up on sharp crimps. Nidderdale is full of little pinnacles like that so there's lots of better things to choose from. Literally over the road from High Crag is Rowantree Tor where you will find Gladiator: another mushroom type boulder but a much better problem. AND when you've done Snaketongue at High Crag you'll just pack up your pads and go elsewhere, whereas Rowantree has a decent circuit of similarly graded problems.

Snaketongue:
https://vimeo.com/215552409#t=59

Gladiator:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8oojRFD1sg/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[User deactivated.]

I'm not surprised Geminid Trail has been dry during this summers drought, but I've been to the Satellite Boulder 3 times during dry winter spells and never found that problem dry! Other problems on the boulder seem to fare a little better but are significantly harder. I haven't done it but surely Under a Full Moon is THE problem on that bloc? 

[Will Hunt]

Just realised that my post reads like doing a bit shit on the book which wasn't my intention. Obviously loads of graft has gone in and it looks great, but these things are fun to argue about.

[Bradders]

Presumably you've all got a copy now so how about a few opinions:

Controversial opinion time....I haven't bought a copy. I'm sure it's lovely and everything, lots of pretty pictures and that, but I bought the Font one, flicked through it once or twice, and haven't touched it since. For some reason I just don't find still images very inspiring, and it's not a guidebook, or in any way comprehensive, so is otherwise a bit useless.

No offence meant to anyone involved, and Dave is clearly a very talented photographer, just trying to articulate why I haven't jumped on it despite being very much a lover of all things gritstone. I do feel a bit dirty not having bought it, maybe shame will encourage me to put my hand in my pocket or at least ask for it for Christmas.

Looking at the problem list, the one that jumped out to me was including Jason's Roof at Crookrise, when just up the hill a bit sits Yorkshire's best line in Sole Fusion and that's not in 

[teestub]

Looking at the problem list, the one that jumped out to me was including Jason's Roof at Crookrise, when just up the hill a bit sits Yorkshire's best line in Sole Fusion and that's not in 

I assume this is the controversial bit? 😂 I can provide a short form essay as to why I disagree with you here, but taste is a personal thing after all.

Lovely book, am psyched for that prow in Calderdale, and it reminded me of a few other bits I should try too that I’ve overlooked or forgotten about.

[Bradders]

Haha essay away 

Red Rooster is dead good. It's on my list for Out on a Limb 2; it's one of those venues with just the one perfect problem and nothing else.

[36chambers]

Controversial opinion time....I haven't bought a copy. I'm sure it's lovely and everything, lots of pretty pictures and that, but I bought the Font one, flicked through it once or twice, and haven't touched it since. For some reason I just don't find still images very inspiring, and it's not a guidebook, or in any way comprehensive, so is otherwise a bit useless.

I bought the Font one after getting Grit Blocs and was mildly disappointed by it in comparison. There's a lot more text in GB and Dave does an excellent job in building up the psyche for all the climbs and areas, whereas the Font book feels surprisingly soulless and textbook like in comparison.

I did think the same about having Sole Fusion rather than Jason's Roof (or maybe just having both). Imagine turning the page and seeing someone on the cut loose of Sole Fusion having never heard of the climb before

[36chambers]

Haha essay away 

Red Rooster is dead good. It's on my list for Out on a Limb 2; it's one of those venues with just the one perfect problem and nothing else.

the 7A+ on the other side is just as good

[Will Hunt]

Haha essay away 

Red Rooster is dead good. It's on my list for Out on a Limb 2; it's one of those venues with just the one perfect problem and nothing else.

the 7A+ on the other side is just as good

Pffft. Please. Everybody knows that climbing below 7C doesn't count.

[Bradders]

Controversial opinion time....I haven't bought a copy. I'm sure it's lovely and everything, lots of pretty pictures and that, but I bought the Font one, flicked through it once or twice, and haven't touched it since. For some reason I just don't find still images very inspiring, and it's not a guidebook, or in any way comprehensive, so is otherwise a bit useless.

I bought the Font one after getting Grit Blocs and was mildly disappointed by it in comparison. There's a lot more text in GB and Dave does an excellent job in building up the psyche for all the climbs and areas, whereas the Font book feels surprisingly soulless and textbook like in comparison.

I did think the same about having Sole Fusion rather than Jason's Roof (or maybe just having both). Imagine turning the page and seeing someone on the cut loose of Sole Fusion having never heard of the climb before

Ah that's interesting. Hopefully someone will oblige me for Christmas!

Haha essay away 

Red Rooster is dead good. It's on my list for Out on a Limb 2; it's one of those venues with just the one perfect problem and nothing else.

the 7A+ on the other side is just as good

Would you drive for 2 hours to go and do it? I wouldn't personally, but I know at least one person who has to go and do Red Rooster.

[Wellsy]

Haha essay away 

Red Rooster is dead good. It's on my list for Out on a Limb 2; it's one of those venues with just the one perfect problem and nothing else.

the 7A+ on the other side is just as good

Pffft. Please. Everybody knows that climbing below 7C doesn't count.

 

[Will Hunt]

Haha essay away 

Red Rooster is dead good. It's on my list for Out on a Limb 2; it's one of those venues with just the one perfect problem and nothing else.

the 7A+ on the other side is just as good

Pffft. Please. Everybody knows that climbing below 7C doesn't count.

 

To clarify, I was sarcastically implying that this is what Bradders was asserting. Obviously if all climbing <7C was actually shit then I'd have had to jack it in a long time ago!

[Bradders]

Well you're not wrong Will 

[Fiend]

Whilst revising this coffee table book (if you don't drink coffee, don't use a table, and don't like books, then indeed it might not be for you) on the shitter this morning (topically the after-effects of the coffee), I amused myself by reading the intro quote:

They must be legitimate boulder problems rather than routes or solos masquerading as problems...

And then coming up with the list of which ones were original routes / had route grades in the beer towel solo format...

Jumping Jack Flash E1 5c
Steve's Wall E1 5b
Successor State E4 6b
Poetry In Motion E2 6a
Syrett's Roof E3 6b
Needle Of Dreams E4 6b
DIY E3 6a
Careless Torque E6 7a
Westside Story E4 7a
All Quiet On The Eastern Front E1 6a
The Art Of White Hat Wearing E5 6c
Superbloc E8 7a
Finger Of Fate E2 6a
Charlie's Overhang E2 5c
Tierdrop E5 6b
Velvet Silence E6 6c

(Yes I was bored for the 1 1/2 minutes it took me to remember / research this. I did JJF, Steve's Wall, Poetry, DIY, All Quiet and Finger Of Fate as normal solos, as well as 95% of Charlies Overhang before falling off, flipping over in mid-air - which saved me from neck-snapping paraplegia - and breaking my heel. Pre-pads BS huh  ).

[mrjonathanr]

Velvet Silence E6 6c

Not sure I'd fall off the upper arete of that and maintain it's just a little boulder problem.

[Fiend]

You need more send-train-bellend pad-parties then! Or younger legs.....

[moose]

Snaketongue Truffleclub isn't very good in my opinion. Cool feature, but climbing is a bit nasty and not actually anything special. You just pull up on sharp crimps... Literally over the road from High Crag is Rowantree Tor where you will find Gladiator: another mushroom type boulder but a much better problem.

Despite previous differences where Yorkshire scrittle fondling is concerned, I completely agree with Will here.  Snaketongue Truffleclub looks good but is at best a mediocre climb (possibly poor).  I did it last Sunday - a striking feature but the holds are simultaneously small, rough, sharp, sandy in places, and the top is lichenous.  Basically, it's an awkward sit start to get stood up (toe-hook), then just pain tolerance / ability to crimp and avoid cuts to gain higher holds and top-out on moss.

The forecast looks okay for the weekend, so hopefully I will get a session at Rowantree Tor to see how Gladiator compares.  I have had a bit of a shift in my expectations / hopes recently - it used to be all "big game hunting" - short sessions working stuff that I find really hard.  Now, I am  happier to tootle around easier circuits - just being outside is reward enough,

[Alex-the-Alex]

I liked both. Gladiator and truffleclub. The zero wall nearby is good too. But maybe not worth driving for.

Moose, if you're looking for good easy circuits, and you haven't been before, skip Rowantree and head over to Ash Head! You won't regret it!

[Will Hunt]

Hopefully I haven't oversold Rowantree now. There's a nice circuit there. Grades seemed pretty unforgiving. Some of the landings are a bit rocky so take good foam. This probably hasn't been repeated: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=30466.0

If you finish up there and still have energy then Pok-A-Tok is really good at Nought Bank if you haven't done it.

[Alex-the-Alex]

No not at all, I'm probably underselling it. I don't know if I'd drive miles just for G wall and Truffleclub, but with Rowantree, Far Crag, and all of Guisecliff within two minutes its a cracking day out!

[Fiend]

Okay better late than never but surely there's some opportunities to put this mighty "not a ticklist" tome into action at the moment?? Especially given the length and breadth of problems covered....

Bonus points for the first people to post about ticking something new to them that they only discovered in this book...

[Fiend]

Bonus points for the first people to post about ticking something new to them that they only discovered in this book...

Sure it's a bit warm now (although DPiddy does highlight a lot of shady and/or moorland grit options), but back in winter I had some good times exploring some new-to-me problems in Grit Bloques....Part 1 in Yorkshire....

[Duma]

Those look great, nice one Fiend.

[Fiend]

And Part 2 in The Peak District....