[Duma]

M - 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
T - TCA, 1hr. Mostly new blacks (6C to 7B), but two blues (7A to 7C) too. 7 blacks and 2 blues, incl one I tried on Sunday. Tired, felt like not fully recovered from weekend sessions so cut it short. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
W - Redpoint, indoor routes. 6b, 7a, 7b, all soft, all comfortably OS, then failed at last clip of another (tough) 7b. Decent go on (soft) 7c, failed at second last clip, pretty comfortable next go. Finished on OS of (fair) 7a+. Good session, nice to tie in again, but still feeling tired. Few days off due.
T - 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
F - still tired. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
S - 2 min plank (no variations or press ups as thought I'd try for a new record but no chance). Run, 6k, 30 min flat, pavement.
S - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Partner for planned climbing tomorrow (Mon) bailed at lunchtime. Pissed off, sulked rest of the day.

70 kg
2022 plank total 252 min

[shark]

Thanks Duma


11.4-7 Average 160.0lbs down 2.1lb. Year low - just. Target 158lbs

M. Lazy start after long weekend. Home warm up. PM Tor. Warm, deserted. Cross through at first attempt. Dozen goes trying alternative ways to do the throw more statically. Hot by now and uncertain whether I’d overdone it but had a go at AnCap triples on THFML and surprised myself doing 4 sets failing on final two reps so 10 repeats in total - a decent improvement. It’s the core tension that goes first. Ultimately aiming to do five completed sets.

T

W

T Simon bailed on me (again). Not psyched enough to find another partner for the Cornice. AM Home warm up. Tor. 15 degrees. Sunny intervals and rain. Got to work on the crux throw move again to attempt to do it statically - have been obsessing about this. In the end found same feet as before worked but needed to push off both feet my to get the extension to reach the crimp. Managed it twice in a row at the end albeit holding it with 3 fingers rather than the 4 I need to do the next move.
AnCap triples on THFML again and did 4 complete sets so 12 repeats. Tried a fifth set  but swung off the go-again move at first go.

F.

S.

S. PM Usual warm up then foot on campusing

Bit of micro progress on Ben’s this week (I hope). Going static feels like the way (higher %, not so sapping on my right hand latching the crimp) Power vs Strength.  Keen to see how it feels knitting the whole crux section together.

[Fiend]

Dog-sitting in Wales week.

M - Porth Ysgo. Too warm, too underfed, too injured. Was rubbish. Dog did a good mantle with a "close spot" which she snarled at me for. Did manage to do a good triple mat throw onto the landing of a lower boulder. The Ysgo landings make even that a challenge for getting good whumps.

T - Easy bouldering mileage at Beacon. Smaller mezzanine had excellent potential for mat throwing onto the main floor level, but got caught and told off when the staff heard the velcro ripping as I tried to detach a mat section.

W - Musclemorph gym. Quite fun and bustly but friendly people and some cute girls. Might move there. Did some "active rest mat throwing" with a yoga mat before stretching.

T - Easy auto-belays including some laps at Beacon. Leant against a propped up mat whilst stretching in between routes, thought about throwing it but realised it might land on me.

F - Sunbeach. A bit too warm, again too underfed, too weird pebble levels, too undercut starts for elbow. Did some easier stuff and sort of sulky mat throwing across the pebbles. Dog not impressed. Stamina laps in the evening throwing Terry's mats out of the car and throwing mine back in.

S - Bryn Castell for a mixture of trad new routing and heckling Ross. Fine mat throwing, good whumps and maybe a bit of bog splash.

S - Thought about mat throwing but was a bit tired so just visualised it.

[Wellsy]

Great to see you getting all the hard mat throwing performance in Fiend its all about staying recruited and keeping that work capacity imo

[Duma]

LOL

[User deactivated.]

M - Ridiculously hard limit board session. Managed to link a few moves i'd never been able to do in isolation before. Went a bit long and did 2 hours at limit intensity but power didn't seem to fade. Weighted muscle up transitions on the rings to finish.

T -  1 hour mobility

W - half crimp fingerboard pickups. 6 sets at 60kg. 4x6 double shoulder width weighted pullups +25kg, 4x6 dumbell shoulder preeses.

T - Evening session on Jelly of the Beast at Castleton. Knew I needed to improve my beta so didn't have a proper try and instead just played around finding the best ways to do all the moves. Found a fingerlock near the end of the session which I thought might seal the deal when I return fresh.

F - 1 hour mobility

S - Returned fresh to Jelly of the Beast. A bit of seepage, but dried it the best I could, and had a proper go. Realised the fingerlock is so hard to get in on the link that it's more effort than it's worth, damn! Had a few more goes and got the worst flapper i've ever had on the cut loose, peeling back the skin all the way from the PIP to DIP joint, down to the blood. Carnage. Taped up and went back to refining beta. Found a new trick that allows the fingerlock on the link. Feels promising for next time.

S - I's, Y's and T's on the rings followed by core session

[Fiend]

Cheers Wellsy, I've been working on a pyramidical protocol for medium term mat throwing gains, keeping the volume high but cycling between more dramatic whumpy throw days and lighter casual tossing days to get a good throwing base level whilst maintaining recruitment. Once this period is comfortable I hope to increase to larger mats for more disruptive dust clouds.

[Wellsy]

As long as you stay uninjured you can probably be hitting your long term goal of going to Tor and chucking a series of full sized Organic pads right into the cave from next to the car!

Anyway climbing

Monday - big works session. Felt great. Fingerboarded up to 40kgs for 10 seconds on the 20mm edge. Weighted pullups, 3 sets of 5 with 27kgs added. 3 x 8 V-pullups.

Tuesday - Rested 

Wednesday - rained off outdoors so went to Depot, flashed a load of Purples, did a bunch of other ones.

Thursday - 3 sets of 5 really low ring dips, dumbbell bench press, dumbbell overhead press

Friday - rested

Saturday - went to Gardoms as Stanage seemed wet, nice session. Flashed a 6B+, got spat off by a morpho 6A, had some good burns on a 6C (so close!) Didn't do a 4+, did a 5+ that felt harder than the 6B+ that my mate (who is great at grit slabs, and did the 4+, couldn't do). Grit! It's fucking stupid. Great session though.

Sunday - 45 mins on the board to warm up, Anston stones. Repeated a couple of 6Bs and a 6B+, did a weird 6B+ eliminate, a 6C and a 7A+ which is really more like a softer 7A imo.

Great week. Knee feels good, loads of climbing, felt strong and happy. Definitely got some psyche back!

[Will Hunt]

September twelfth. I gotta get in shape. Too much sitting has ruined my body. Too much abuse has gone on for too long. From now on there will be 50 pushups each morning, 50 pullups. There will be no more pills, no more bad food, no more destroyers of my body. From now on will be total organization. Every muscle must be tight.


Tuesday - Depot bouldering.

Saturday - Enjoyable Malham session. Warmed up and did Tremelo 1st go after putting the clips in. Have been on this once before at end of July so it felt good to tick it off quickly and to feel good on it. Finished by doing Taking the Space putting the clips in - haven't done this link before but have done each of the parent routes and the climbing that links them is very steady.


This week I must not sit about on my arse playing my Switch in the evenings. I must do some sort of bouldering/board session, a repeaters session, and I must pay my respects to His Royal Highness Tony to get the best, most ripped abdominal area I've ever had in my life. I must start off gently as I really have been firmly on the couch for a few months.

Only concern is a finger niggle which I picked up while brushing something and pulling onto it in some fairly minging connies a few weeks ago. Some slight discomfort comes and goes while moving my ring finger - pain is in at the fingertip end of the A2 but on the "back" of the hand (opposite side to the palm side, what's that called?). Doesn't seem to hurt while climbing or be any better or worse after climbing.

Not sure what to do with myself now. I love Malham and wouldn't mind looking at something like An Uneasy Peace or Mescalito. I felt reasonably close to Vorsprung when I tried it a couple of months ago. I also wouldn't mind doing some more trad as I had an absolute ball at Wilton 1 a few weeks ago. Kilnsey psyche has completely evaporated for the year.

[James Malloch]

September twelfth. I gotta get in shape. Too much sitting has ruined my body. Too much abuse has gone on for too long. From now on there will be 50 pushups each morning, 50 pullups. There will be no more pills, no more bad food, no more destroyers of my body. From now on will be total organization. Every muscle must be tight.


Tuesday - Depot bouldering.

Saturday - Enjoyable Malham session. Warmed up and did Tremelo 1st go after putting the clips in. Have been on this once before at end of July so it felt good to tick it off quickly and to feel good on it. Finished by doing Taking the Space putting the clips in - haven't done this link before but have done each of the parent routes and the climbing that links them is very steady.


This week I must not sit about on my arse playing my Switch in the evenings. I must do some sort of bouldering/board session, a repeaters session, and I must pay my respects to His Royal Highness Tony to get the best, most ripped abdominal area I've ever had in my life.

Only concern is a finger niggle which I picked up while brushing something and pulling onto it in some fairly minging connies a few weeks ago. Some slight discomfort comes and goes while moving my ring finger - pain is in at the fingertip end of the A2 but on the "back" of the hand (opposite side to the palm side, what's that called?). Doesn't seem to hurt while climbing or be any better or worse after climbing.

Not sure what to do with myself now. I love Malham and wouldn't mind looking at something like An Uneasy Peace or Mescalito. I felt reasonably close to Vorsprung when I tried it a couple of months ago. I also wouldn't mind doing some more trad as I had an absolute ball at Wilton 1 a few weeks ago. Kilnsey psyche has completely evaporated for the year.

Highly recommend process physiotherapy (video sessions) if you wanted a diagnosis and a good plan for keeping climbing during rehab.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M. Max hangs - 1 arm with 8kg assistance, 23 mm edge. Followed by some short hard problems on the board.
T.
W. Limit bouldering on the board, did a project requiring a lot of body tension and pushing on feet with flat or slopey crimps, was a surprise to do it. Eyed up some other projects.
T.
F.
S. Manic day of DIY-ing to install fireplace and wallpapering.
S. Limit bouldering on the board. Felt a bit low on energy but it's clear to me the (re)gainz I've made over the past few months, still being able to pull off moves that I could only dream of 6 months ago. That and the prospect of outdoor climbing next weekend has given me some fresh psyche.

[duncan]

Not sure what to do with myself now...I also wouldn't mind doing some more trad as I had an absolute ball at Wilton 1 a few weeks ago.

A good choice if a finger is a bit tweaky? And it's so time consuming there is less opportunity to sit around and snack.



M - Still knackered. Walked 9km.
T - Fingerboard: 3s sharp pulls with left hand (95% RPE) and slower with the right (50% RPE) in various grips.
W - Fingerboard as above.
T - Walked 7km.
F - Fingerboard as above, increasing reps. Shuffled a tiny distance.
S - Fingerboard as above. Walked 11km.
S - Gilet Jaune for a local street party (not exactly celebrating recent events but we were not going to cancel for them). Walked 10km selling raffle tickets, carried a lot of trestle tables, danced to Ray Gelato, and drank a bit too much... 

Easy week, part by choice to allow the wrist to settle a bit and partly as I've resumed being a dad. Plan: more of the same.

[Nutty]

Skipped reporting a couple of weeks after returning from holiday - had a massive crash in psyche when back home, then parents visited for a few days which limited training opportunities. Managed to fit in three runs and some physio sessions and a board session across the two weeks. Last week was better:

Monday - Yoga, hip adductor and abdominal physio exercises.

Tuesday - Rest.

Wednesday - Wall session. Warmup and quick play on the new board (couldn't resist), then routes.

Thursday - Fair amount of walking, 24k steps in total.

Friday - Wall session. Warmup, worked some problems on the new board, finished with pullups and physio exercises once power was waning.

Saturday - Rest

Sunday - Yoga and physio.

No runs this week which was a bit slack, should get some in this week. Need to keep plugging away with the physio as even though I feel that my hip issues are mostly resolved I do get the occasional twinge, and the physio exercises targeting the hip adductor still elicit some discomfort to remind me that I'm not 100% there.

[Coops_13]

M: Guanella Pass, Ice Knife area. First day out since before wedding and honeymoon. Heavy. Warmed up and eventually got this soft V5, Over the Rainbow. Moved up to the Hammerfall boulder and tried the moves of Bloodbound V9. Very cool but very sharp. Managed a number of the moves, perhaps one for next season


T: Upper body mobility. G1. Volume session. 8 boulders up to V5 then too busy. Kilterboard 30deg 10 V4s

T: G1. 20mm hangs 10s up to +50lb. Kilterboard 45deg. 2 V4, 7 V5, 4 V6. Shoulder press, lateral and front raise

S: Swissco. First time up here and first time >9kft for a month - def felt the altitude a bit. Amazing boullders in a high alpine meadow. Warmed up and worked Scattered Lines V6++, falling off the end multiple times. Skin and fitness letting me down. Moved onto try Sea of the Beast V6++ but no cigar on the top

S: Density pickups up to 40lb. Walk by Standley Lake

[Duncan Disorderly]

No Pub Club...

M: Bouldering @ The Depot - Wasted from Surfing the previous day but did manage to flash most of the red circuit and do a couple of yellows.. Felt hard and like there was lots of throwing for the left arm... Concluded that I really don't like the style of climbing down there (not that I like indoor bouldering much anywhere tbh)... Lots of v basic pulling down, throw moves and/or heel shenanigans... Shoulder hasn't bothered me for months but definitely felt it after that!
T: Destroyed after previous session but still on with the stamina work, 12 x routes up to F6c (couple of 4x's and some warmup and cooldowns).
W: Rest
T: Rest again - Shoulder definitely feeling worked... Hopfully just DOMS.
F: Planned to drive to Wales - GF not well... Planks and pop up work.
S: GF still not well- dragged her to Darlton, did one route (good F6a..) - Walk and check some shit out!
S: Onsighting @ AW - GF still not great but was up for a sesh, wasn't keen on me hanging on a rope so decided to just go for slightly tricky onsights that I shouldn't () fall off - 8 routes up to F6c+ no lobs. Good session.

Strange week - Started tired and was worried I'd hurt meself, glad it turned out to just be over egging it a bit, think the rest did me some good. Failed on the no drinking as had a couple of glasses of vino tinto on Fri and Sat to make up for not being in The Wales but generally my booze consumption is down (as is the weight)... Made the decision to extend my upcoming Kalymnos trip and stay another week as it was only £16 to change the flights (+ £35 booking fee but what the hell) and got us a cheap stay for the following week YYFY!

[SA Chris]

M - 11.5 km run. Tried to get under 5 mins per km pace, but buckled on last nasty hill.
T - some weights
W - 11.75 km run, faster pace on loop than last time, some weights
T - not much - packed
F - drive up to the Broch for weekend away, up too late drinking bourbon and setting the world to rights.
S - late start to beach, did a bit of paddleboarding and proning on choppy waves, good fun. more whisky.
S - late start, walk after lunch, barbeque, drive home.

Uneventful week, too much booze and food, back on the wagon today.

[andy popp]

5 x cycle/swim routine, 4 x cycle commute to work. Desperate to hang onto the swimming for as long as I can but am hatching winter plan to start going to the wall with 15 year old daughter . She's been outside once, and enjoyed it, but hasn't been indoors. I think she'll take to it.

Anyway, here's why I get on my bike at 6.30 most mornings.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, reclimbed current project. Must be soft.
Tue - garage session 3 after a while. Not bad.
Wed - light weights.
Thu - board climbing 27° 67% humidity, are you kidding. One foot bouldering +2 kg on PE 1 and 2. Usual lower back training.
Fri - EMOM boxing bag.
Sat - loaded carries.
Sun - loaded carries.

[Duma]

Looks fantastic Andy!

[SA Chris]

Looks like the view out my window this time of year, when it doesn't rise too far north and before I'm awake (and when it's not foggy, or cloudy and tipping down)

[Rocksteady]

Good progress on the power endurance this week.

Tue: Gym, 5-8 reps. Good consolidation on dumbbell shoulder press at 18kg.

Thu: Aerocap/aeropow. Did 50:50 mixed intensity circuits, 15 moves easier into 15 moves hard x 4 (120 moves). 10 minutes rest in between. Got this from Crimpd. Definitely the high end of aerocap, got pretty pumped at the end. Then did feet on campussing and saw a big degradation in performance from previous session.

Sat: All day at the Oval eating and drinking and watching England smash South Africa.

Sun: Went down to Buckingham palace early in the morning to show the kids. Was already quite crowded at 9am but got very close, saw the flowers, saw changing of the guard etc. Then did a nice walk back through Hyde Park back to Paddington.
Later did Boulder EMOTM at about V2-4 x 20 reps. Focused on multiple repetitions of the harder problems but still didn't really get pumped. More hot and out of breath. Wonder if this is working aerocap too vs aeropow. Some of these problems at at my flash level and one or two I had to work so don't know how to find the right intensity for this session.
Then did feet on campussing. Got 157 seconds on my first set which is my best ever I think. Looking forward to testing the transferability of this onto routes, previously it has worked very well for me.

[Aussiegav]

Power Club

Monday -
Did finger strength assessment on open hand grip. First finger strength assessment since March?? Pre finger & knee injury.
Body weight 87.1kg. Dressed with harness.
Managed 20kg for 7 sec. Just. Very warm & humid conditions

45min Peloton ride & stretching



Tuesday

Went to Awesome Walls after work
Warmed up doing 12 boulder problems in 12mins. Then flashed a 6a route.
RP attempt on a 6c I tried last Friday. I fell on the first go then had a long rest and did it comfortably next go.
I rested 5 mins then tried to Onsight a steep 6c on the right side of the comp wall. Had two hangs.
Finished with pull ups on the minute, core & stretching


Wednesday -
Rest day

Thursday -

Half crimp assessment. Dropped 10kg since last assessment back in Feb/ pre finger & knee injuries.

Friday -

60min Peloton ride, core and stretching

Saturday -

Went to the Depot while Asa has kids club & I did the mileage & project session again.
6 blues, 5 blacks a couple reds and tried a pink for the warm up. Then did 2 sets of repeaters with 1 min rest.
Project session were 3 problems. Max of 5 tries per problem. Times 3min rests between attempts. 5mins between problems. I like this session on Crimpd.
Pink from warm up, did 3rd try.
Purple on steep wall with 2 finger pockets. Linked from 2nd to 2nd last move by 5th try. Purple which I did in 2 goes.


Sunday.
45 min peloton ride
Walk around Burbage with wife & child. Lovely relaxing afternoon

[CapitalistPunter]

I plan to climb V10 with bare hands

No lies.

     I practice bouldering for 6 years now, calisthenics in parallel for 3 years, I can.

     As well as hangboarding for 4 years, 1m62 for 63 kg

     I have crazy speed, and reflexes identical to my speed. I just have to wait for it to be in good conditions, put in some big tries and pull hard on the good crimps in the mantle. I won't let go at the slightest mistake, the V10 is over. You'll always have virgins here to think it's impossible. Nothing is impossible with the will already friends, and 2) it's not with your cowardly body that you're going to do anything.

     Any man with a minimum of training can top a V10 with a rope already. With bare hands, it's not necessarily more complicated, it just requires technique.