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Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022 (Read 3081 times)

Duma

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Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 04, 2022, 07:23:06 pm
M - drive back from festival, collapse on sofa.
T - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. TCA 90 min, still feeling pretty broken so just did the new orange set (6A to 6B+) 32 problems, 30 flashes. Did the 2 oranges on the comp wall too for completeness, but these aren't part of the circuit and were a little harder (high font 6's)
W - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. TCA 2 hrs (lots of resting in that time though), feeling more recovered from the weekend and need to start trying harder so attempting blues (7A to 7C). Three flashes (very much easier end and vertish though), one did all the moves but couldn't hold the penultimate move from the floor, two did all but last move, and linked from start to last move on both, one couldn't get off the floor, and one did a few moves but no links. Good session.
T - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. TCA, 1 hr, circuits, 6 x 41 move 7a+ ish with 10 min between. Failed on penultimate move of last 4 reps. Tired, poor session.
F - 12 hr shift
S - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Tried and failed to find partner to get out. Pissed off. Pm TCA, knackered and unmotivated when arrived but perked up once started climbing. 90 min on blues (7A to 7C), flashed 3, did 3 others, few tries on 4 more. Also the remaining white (6B+ to 7A) I'd not done had been tweaked so finished that off.
S - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. TCA 2.5 hrs, blues (7A to 7C). Finished 3 I tried yesterday, flashed one more, did another quickly, and tries on several more. Good session, lots of mates there, tried hard and prob stayed 30 min longer than I should have.

69.5 kg
2022 plank total 240 min

Wood FT

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#1 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 04, 2022, 08:05:09 pm
Are you seeing any return on your planks? Do you feel toighter on the wall etc...

Duma

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#2 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 04, 2022, 08:15:51 pm
Not really tbh, but I do have bet with my gf which makes it all worthwhile...

Really it's just nice to do something quick that still feels like a challenge. My shoulders seem to like the regular press ups too.

shark

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#3 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 04, 2022, 08:23:38 pm
Thanks Duma


11.7-10 average 162.2lb target 158lb

M. AM Weighed heavy. Home warm up. Tor. 15 degrees but a bit glassy. THFML x 2. Cross thru at first attempt. 4 failed attempts at throw. Pinch and pocket to kick but shut down for cross thru. 3 sets of AnCap triples on THFML failing on final rep - a significant improvement compared to when I tried this 3 weeks ago. Few locks to finish.

T.

W. AM. Home warm up. Cornice with Alastair R with a view of doing a mileage session. Failed to dog the warm up (Clarion Call) so just belayed. Clearly not recovered from Monday’s session.

T.

F. PM Foot on campusing. Eve Drove to Devon

S

S. PM Drove back from Devon

Hoped to do more endurance/PE work this week but not up to it which was frustrating. Hopefully won’t take so long to recover from laps on THFML tomorrow. Started to cut down on carbs in last couple of day - my weight has been running a few pounds higher than normal all year.

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#4 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 04, 2022, 08:38:39 pm
Monday - Attempted to climb. Was pathetic

Tuesday - Rested more

Wednesday - Big session indoors, trying hard on limit stuff (not that I did anything new) and the board. Weighted pullups

Thursday - Fingerboarded (6 sets of 10 seconds up to 40kgs added on the 20mm), three sets of 5 weighted pullups, 25, 27 and 30kgs added. Three sets of 8 V-pullups. OHP, Dumbell Bench

Friday - rested

Saturday - Was supposed to go outside but failed to do so due to other situations. Went to works, did entire new black circuit in about am hour ten / fifteen which was cool, maybe I'll try it again and go for under an hour? I wasn't rushing but it was nice to do em at that pace. Probably the most fun I've had indoors in months; didn't feel constantly shit, scared, unable to commit etc. Somewhat psyche inducing!!!

Three sets of 5 weighted pullups, 25kgs. Dumbell Bench. Fingerboarded.

Saturday - was gonna rest but did a mild session where I repeated like 20 problems in the easier blacks and yellows, tried a couple of harder problems, did three sets of 5 deep ring dips.

Overall: rollercoaster in terms of how much I actually give two shits about climbing from day to day but had fun and determined to get at least calisthenically strong in the next few months. Not inspired by grit at all right now but we shall see.

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#5 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 04, 2022, 11:20:02 pm
Missed last week. Deload this week and family holiday in Snowdonia

M - 30 min mobility

T - checked out Roof Of A Baby Buddha in the evening. Did the individual moves except for the heel toe swap, but realised I wasn't going to do it in a session and called it quits as the last thing I need is another project. Did Buddha Belly then went to Crafnant for loads of nice easy problems.

W - 30 min mobility

T - Fingerboard pickups. Fortunately the hotel gym had some decent kettlebells. 6 sets of 5s pulls at 60kg

F - 4x6 double shoulder width pullups +25kg, 4x6 dumbel shoulder presses 32.5kg. 30 min mobility.

S - Back home. Aimed to get on my main target Kenzoku, but it was condensed. Drove over to Odins Cave at Castleton to try Jelly of the Beast, which crosses the entire cave (longest roof problem in the peak and further?). Figured out the beta (including 6 toe hooks!) and managed it in two halves. I think it will take around 1 min 15 seconds to complete, there's no real rest points or knees, and it has a powerful move near the end, so it will be hard to link. Great moves, potentially rainproof, and roadside - psyched.

Currently weighing over 84kg so have decided to drop 2-3kg over the next few weeks before my next base training phase begins.

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#6 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 06:13:11 am
Hoped to do more endurance/PE work this week but not up to it which was frustrating. Hopefully won’t take so long to recover from laps on THFML tomorrow. Started to cut down on carbs in last couple of day

This could help explain your lack of recovery...carbs are really important for PE work as far as I understand it.

longest roof problem in the peak and further?

No I reckon Mortal Immortal/Sean's Roof Sit and Tamora are both quite a lot longer. Oh and King Cannibal is a similar sort of thing and maybe twice the length?

Oh plus Belly of the Beast at the Tor! Or Weeding the Lip maybe. The stuff at Windy Knoll is all roof based too and very long.

Basically, there's actually quite a lot of horizontal climbing in the Peak haha
« Last Edit: September 05, 2022, 06:22:36 am by Bradders »

andy popp

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#7 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 07:21:21 am
Cycle/swim x 6, cycle to work x 3. The second half of the week has been windy and the sea constantly choppy (and starting to get a bit colder). I was completely beat last night and fast asleep before 9pm and still feeling tired this morning. 

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 08:21:05 am
M - run with mate, 8.5km. Shorter than i would have liked (the run not the mate) but legs a bit tired after long walk the day before.
T - weights, dumbell flys I think.
W - second try on WHOP. 5:20 pace for the nearly 14.5 km. Fingerboard session in evening.
T - first intervals 4 x 3 min with 1 min rest. Tried second set, but felt bust.
F - climbing. Conditions crap, but the 6 holds i needed to focus on were dry. After an hour or so of tinkering, managed to come up with a useable sequence for crux of problem that has eluded me for 2 sessions. Delighted. Now need to return with pads, spotters and good conditions to seal the deal. Given the weather this may be March.
S - wall session. Given lack of skin and how warm it was, actually had a decent session.
S - very little. Weather pish, house a mess.

shark

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#9 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 08:32:30 am
Hoped to do more endurance/PE work this week but not up to it which was frustrating. Hopefully won’t take so long to recover from laps on THFML tomorrow. Started to cut down on carbs in last couple of day
This could help explain your lack of recovery...carbs are really important for PE work as far as I understand it.

I didn’t start cutting down on carbs till Thursday

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#10 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 08:32:49 am
M - roof of baby Buddha, gave it some goes and then bumbled about, did Buddha belly, the stand and then a stand start to Dharma

T - rest day

W - went to burbage Brook and added a new mantel to the circuit called The Bean

T-  went to stanage to try a case of mistaken identity but was far too warm so bumbled on cornflake and did the hatchet, then went and repeated Mossatrocity stand and relearned the sit moves in preparation for grit season next month

F - went chossineering with Chris and we put up some new lines at Carl Wark and The Sheepfold

S - rest day, got a deep tissue massage

S - went to white edge, did diamond white left hand and put up some new lines with Chris

All in all more of a deload week and chill, casual bouldering and FAing. Back onto training this week!
« Last Edit: September 05, 2022, 08:51:41 am by Carliios »

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#11 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 08:44:00 am

T - checked out Roof Of A Baby Buddha in the evening. Did the individual moves except for the heel toe swap,

Thought you’d be plenty tall enough to reach the good flatty off the heel? I’ve only seen shorter people need to swap out of the heel.

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#12 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 08:55:34 am
M - Drive to Scotland to visit sister and climb. Early start and all very smooth except my sister discovered she had Covid around when I was passing the Lake District  :o Mutually decided not to stay with her but Wil stepped in and offered his spare room.
T - Low cloud so we chose Creag Dubh Newtonmore. Led The Hill: intimidating, steep but straightforward climbing, very good. Wil lead Wet Dreams, a burly E2. The mizzle arrived in time to remove any temptation to do more routes before the big day next day. Enjoyed the style of climbing here and will have to come back for the Extreme Rock ticks.
W - Alpine start, 7.30 at the Ben Nevis N Face car park, a brisk hike to Carn Dearg, and climbing Torro by around 9.30. Great route, glorious scenery, ideal conditions, in the sun for most of the climbing, and excellent company. Finished with plenty of time for another - Titan’s Wall looks brilliant - but I was tired and the midges had started to make their presence felt.
T - Tired and a somewhat later start. Drove to Glen Coe aiming for Carnivore on Creag a' Bhancair as I had specified no long walk-ins. Unfortunately the gentle southerly wasn't keeping the midges off. Decided the south face of Central Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor could work as it would be catching the breeze and was only 60 minutes further up the hill (according to the ever reliable Garry Latter). Scrambled up Curving Ridge and thrashed around grassy ledges looking for this for some time and failing to find it (thank you again Gary for your ambiguous approach description). Continued scrambling up Curved Ridge heading for the East Face of North Buttress. More thrashing across gullies until we were nearly there. By this time I had run out of gas and I didn't feel safe on my feet. I requested we bail.
F - Drove back to London via family gardens in Edinburgh and Manchester. Battered and tired.
S - Not much physical activity but listened to the Berliner Philharmoniker and Kirill Petrenko playing a magnificent Mahler's seventh at The Proms.
S - Collected the lad from Heathrow at early o’clock. Not much else.

A lot of driving for three routes but Scotland was generally glorious and we had one amazing day. First time rock climbing on Ben Nevis (new crag 13 for the year) despite having first walked under the N Face in 1976. I hope it’s not the last. I was sorry not to be able to take advantage of day 3 of good weather (one plan had been to do something easy like Ardverikie Wall which, on reflection, might have been a better idea). Clearly need an easy day after two on with my current fitness although this was mostly my legs protesting. I do some basic leg conditioning but it's challenging maintaining proper hill fitness in London when it only gets used once or twice a year. Putting the superb new Wired guide to Scotland on my Christmas list as inspiration and for better approach information!

Back to single parent mode which means I won't be doing much outside for the next few weeks. Time to rehab. the wrist and then get some training done so I can push my sport climbing in the last three months of the year. 




 

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#13 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 09:18:36 am

T - checked out Roof Of A Baby Buddha in the evening. Did the individual moves except for the heel toe swap,

Thought you’d be plenty tall enough to reach the good flatty off the heel? I’ve only seen shorter people need to swap out of the heel.

I realised that if I could swap the heel to a toe right at the top of the start jug then I could get the good right hand 3 finger flatty, left hand to the gaston then go high left heel while keeping the right toe on, basically in the splits, to avoid the cut. It was a highly speculative visit as 7C+ in a session would be new for me. Perhaps I gave in too soon, but I did have a really nice time at Crafnant afterwards.   

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#14 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 09:24:50 am
longest roof problem in the peak and further?

No I reckon Mortal Immortal/Sean's Roof Sit and Tamora are both quite a lot longer. Oh and King Cannibal is a similar sort of thing and maybe twice the length?

Oh plus Belly of the Beast at the Tor! Or Weeding the Lip maybe. The stuff at Windy Knoll is all roof based too and very long.

Basically, there's actually quite a lot of horizontal climbing in the Peak haha

Everyone just ignore me  ;D

King Cannibal I wouldn't count as you're not really climbing under the roof.

Andronicus / Tamora look very up my street.

teestub

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#15 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 10:02:42 am


I realised that if I could swap the heel to a toe right at the top of the start jug then I could get the good right hand 3 finger flatty, left hand to the gaston then go high left heel while keeping the right toe on, basically in the splits, to avoid the cut. It was a highly speculative visit as 7C+ in a session would be new for me. Perhaps I gave in too soon, but I did have a really nice time at Crafnant afterwards.

Ah cool yeah I just cut in those holds. Crafnant is such a beautiful spot eh.

SA Chris

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#16 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 10:22:36 am
Creag Dubh ...... Extreme Rock ticks.

Speaking of which, check yourself thoroughly for the biting ones. CD has the worst I have ever encountered, due to the feral goats. We did Tree Hee and walked off, I had dozens making their way through the hair on my legs by the time we got to the bottom.

I'm swithering about the new Wired Guide, not sure I need another book, I have most of the SMC set, both Latters, The SMC Best of Guide, and the old Kev Howett one. I'll probably cave in eventually, but like a proper look at it first.

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#17 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 10:34:06 am
Power Club:

M. 1 arm max hangs, 8kg assistance on a pulley (was sticking a bit so WD40'd and woopah, they suddenly felt a lot harder...). Few tries at various board projects to finish.
T.
W. Normal warmup with therabands and fingerboard, then limit bouldering on the board. Not the best, feeling a bit sluggish and heavy but tried hard.
T. Folks arrived to stay with us for a few days.
F.
S.
S.

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#18 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 11:09:56 am
Mon:

Tue: Bit of stretching.

Wed: Aeropow session 2. 18 boulder EMOTM, then foot on campussing. Best set 102 seconds which was worse than the last one which was a bit depressing.

Thu: Rest, stretching.

Fri: Weights. 3 sets 10. Got up to 60kg on row which was good.

Sat: Walking with family.

Sun: Aeropow 3. 22 boulder EMOTM. Still not sure I am getting intensity of this right, getting hot and puffed out but not pumped. Challenge is I am only doing boulders at or above my flash level. Could just be not steep enough or boulders are too short (6-8 moves)?
Foot on campussing. Best set 131 seconds which was a big improvement and I am pleased with. Will be interesting to measure how far I can get this in 3 more weeks.

A good week, although have tweaky feeling left hand (particularly an odd thumb injury) it is not affecting me climbing or in gym.

SA Chris

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#19 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 11:34:03 am

T. Folks arrived to stay with us for a few days.
F.
S.
S.

This made me laugh, i know how this goes.

Duncan Disorderly

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#20 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 12:04:21 pm
M: DIY
T: Routes @ AW - Felt pretty spritely... warmup went well then walked up some F6b's and F6c's so decided to try summat harder. Got spat off just by the last bolt on a F7b onsight... Had misread the final sequence but was well chuffed to get that far, dogged the rest, worked the sequences and then called it as was wasted.
W: Pop and stretch work... Both hips feeling stiffer than a rusty gate!
T: Routes @ AW with daughter - Sweaty crap, fell off a F6c on the autobelays, had a brief rest then did another one, had to fight though! Called it early as could tell I just didn't have the beans...
F: Walk in the Peak and scramble around Stanage with daughter.
S: Drive to Scarbados...
S: Surf @ Cayton - Ace session, 3.5 hrs in the water... Pop training is definitely working, caught loads and definitely making progress.. 2 hrs @ Scarborough skatepark, took it easy as don't wanna end up on hospital (again)... Do love skateboarding tho!

Ace to get in the water - probably the last time before Kaly now tho. Great to skate again and even better to not hurt myself! All focus on the main event now (fly out on the 23rd). Knocked the booze on the head til we get there (so that first ice-cold mythos and espresso martini taste extra good ;-)... Great!

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#21 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 12:14:21 pm
Nice work Duncan - sounds like you are primed for the trip

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#22 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 01:27:52 pm
Power Club

Mon - board climbing, climbed current project. Still a bit puzzled by that.
Tue - board climbing, tired.
Wed - weights.
Thu - loaded carries.
Fri - EMOM boxing bag.
Sat - barbell good mornings, bentover rows, bar work.
Sun - boxing bag, back training.




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#23 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 02:18:56 pm
Deload week

Monday -
Rest


Tuesday

I walked to the park & did pull ups & core work on the monkey bars. Lovely evening.

Wednesday -

Shrugs 5×5 on lattice rung
Quad block lift repeaters
Warm up1 repeater lifts (15kg) on quad block
Warm Up2 repeater lifts (20kg) on quad block. Open/half crimp/3finger open.

5x 6sec hangs on lattice edge. Body weight

Repeaters
Dead Hang: 20mm Edge. 4 sets x 3 reps x 00:07 per rep. Rest 00:03 between reps & 01:00 between sets
7.5 kg assistance
No finger taped this session no pain during or after


Thursday -
Rest day.

Friday -

Had the day off work. Went to Awesome Walls with Asa & met Neil for a few hours. Everyone climbed well. Asa did amazing,
He did 5a Onsight, 5b ground up, 5a flash on top rope. 5b Onsight on auto belay

I did 5b, 6a, 6b. All Onsight
Then tried a 6c on the speed wall had two hangs. Then tried to Redpoint. Had 1 hang. Really pleased with the session. I could of done it next try but we had to get back home. One for next time.

Saturday -

Bouldered at the depot. 20problem in 20 mins warm up V2 to V4.

Then 3 hard problems. Did two of the 3.
V5 to v7 range. 



Sunday.
45 min peloton ride

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#24 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 03:00:35 pm
(according to the ever reliable Garry Latter). Scrambled up Curving Ridge and thrashed around grassy ledges looking for this for some time and failing to find it (thank you again Gary for your ambiguous approach description). Continued scrambling up Curved Ridge heading for the East Face of North Buttress. More thrashing across gullies until we were nearly there. By this time I had run out of gas and I didn't feel safe on my feet. I requested we bail.

It's reassuring to learn I'm not the only one to fall foul of a Gary Latter approach description (albeit on the approach to a different crag)! Are the approach descriptions more accurate in the new Wired guide? If so, it's probably worth me getting it for that reason alone.

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#25 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 04:22:57 pm
Creag Dubh ...... Extreme Rock ticks.

Speaking of which, check yourself thoroughly for the biting ones. CD has the worst I have ever encountered, due to the feral goats. We did Tree Hee and walked off, I had dozens making their way through the hair on my legs by the time we got to the bottom.

It occurred to me at the time it was probably tick-prone. I did have a check that evening and hopefully survived.


It's reassuring to learn I'm not the only one to fall foul of a Gary Latter approach description (albeit on the approach to a different crag)! Are the approach descriptions more accurate in the new Wired guide? If so, it's probably worth me getting it for that reason alone.

Second time on a different part of this crag and there have been others. A side-effect of an author very familiar with the territory? I've emailed feedback to him only for the errors to be uncorrected in the next edition so I'm less inclined to be polite about it now.

I've only had a close compare and contrast for the Carn Dearg route descriptions (not challenging to write a clear description for the approach) and the Wired seemed a little more precise and detailed.


SA Chris

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#26 Re: Power Club 660 29 Aug - 4 Sep 2022
September 05, 2022, 04:38:55 pm
A side-effect of an author very familiar with the territory?

This, no doubt. And I think in some cases the path shown by a vaguely drawn dotted white line that may have been clear a few years ago is now not as clear as it was following a couple of years of light use.

 

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