[Wellsy]

I know a few people who went to Shambala! Looked ace

That festival has being going since like, 2001 or something? It's just a niche event for a niche subculture who I happen to have loads of friends in. (Sort of like bouldering but with more latex and eyeliner I guess). Was a great weekend tbh :D

[Carliios]

First Power Club! I need to get better at logging my weekly training so here goes:

M - rest day to begin healing split tip from sport climbing that weekend

T - session at TCH, around 3 hours trying the lines in the cave, taped the split tip which has started to heal nicely

W - rest day, light stretching and tending to split tip

T - second rest day to help heal split tip, looking good for weekend trip to a north Wales

F - arrive in North Wales, went straight to cromlech with the aim to try Jerrys but got distracted and ended up doing volume on roadside face and then went up to wavelength to try the lines there

S - went to try Lizard King today. Felt very hard and sweaty so maybe one for better connies! Did Emyrs Arête which was nice but super sharp, then tried eliminate but didn’t fancy the quartzite crimps

S - supposed to be the rest day but we went up to Crafnant and wow, what a beautiful crag, a hillside boulderfield. We got on candyfloss sheep then checked out a few of the classic lines there like Ratt Roof and Special K but were a bit wiped out at that point. Put up 2 new lines (one of which no one could even pull on including a guy who’s flashed multiple 7Cs so felt pretty smug ) and scoped out a bunch more for next trip, amazing amount of development potential there. All in all I loved North Wales and can’t wait to go back!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Great write ups guys 

F6b Club

M: Routes @ AW - Up to F6c
T: Routes @ Horseshit with GF - Up to F6b
W: Rest
T: Ikea shit
F: Routes @ Coudy Rock - Great little crag, got there too late tho as was dark by time we finished warming up - Nowt above F6b
S: Lakes Multipitch with GF - Her first multipitch experience... Upper Scout crag, classic VDiff and White Ghyll classic Severe - Great day out!
S: Bramm Crag - Few routes up to F6b before bailing (GF wasn't feeling it...)

Lovely week... Ace to get back to the Lakes and take Katie out on some bigger routes. Good to actually get it right & pick ones that were easy enough for her to enjoy while still being exposed and a challenge that left her buzzing at the end (rather than calling me a twat and not speaking to me for a month  ) Feel like I'm not pushing hard enough but still getting the miles in so it's all good... This week - try harder things!

[Eddies]

First Power Club! I need to get better at logging my weekly training so here goes:

M - rest day to begin healing split tip from sport climbing that weekend

T - session at TCH, around 3 hours trying the lines in the cave, taped the split tip which has started to heal nicely

W - rest day, light stretching and tending to split tip

T - second rest day to help heal split tip, looking good for weekend trip to a north Wales

F - arrive in North Wales, went straight to cromlech with the aim to try Jerrys but got distracted and ended up doing volume on roadside face and then went up to wavelength to try the lines there

S - went to try Lizard King today. Felt very hard and sweaty so maybe one for better connies! Did Emyrs Arête which was nice but super sharp, then tried eliminate but didn’t fancy the quartzite crimps

S - supposed to be the rest day but we went up to Crafnant and wow, what a beautiful crag, a hillside boulderfield. We got on candyfloss sheep then checked out a few of the classic lines there like Ratt Roof and Special K but were a bit wiped out at that point. Put up 2 new lines (one of which no one could even pull on including a guy who’s flashed multiple 7Cs so felt pretty smug ) and scoped out a bunch more for next trip, amazing amount of development potential there. All in all I loved North Wales and can’t wait to go back!

Which 7C's did you flash?

[Carliios]

First Power Club! I need to get better at logging my weekly training so here goes:

M - rest day to begin healing split tip from sport climbing that weekend

T - session at TCH, around 3 hours trying the lines in the cave, taped the split tip which has started to heal nicely

W - rest day, light stretching and tending to split tip

T - second rest day to help heal split tip, looking good for weekend trip to a north Wales

F - arrive in North Wales, went straight to cromlech with the aim to try Jerrys but got distracted and ended up doing volume on roadside face and then went up to wavelength to try the lines there

S - went to try Lizard King today. Felt very hard and sweaty so maybe one for better connies! Did Emyrs Arête which was nice but super sharp, then tried eliminate but didn’t fancy the quartzite crimps

S - supposed to be the rest day but we went up to Crafnant and wow, what a beautiful crag, a hillside boulderfield. We got on candyfloss sheep then checked out a few of the classic lines there like Ratt Roof and Special K but were a bit wiped out at that point. Put up 2 new lines (one of which no one could even pull on including a guy who’s flashed multiple 7Cs so felt pretty smug ) and scoped out a bunch more for next trip, amazing amount of development potential there. All in all I loved North Wales and can’t wait to go back!

Which 7C's did you flash?

Aha if you re-read my post I said a guy who’s flashed multiple 7Cs couldn’t pull on to one of my new lines

[Jerry Morefat]

It also gave us a great view of Darkness but it still wasn’t obvious how hard the moves were above my high point or whether I’d have been able to get any gear in before the traverse left. If anyone can let me know the score I’d be grateful.

My memory of the moves out of the runnel are a little hazy. I slipped off downclmbing the runnel for a rest and in a fit of rage pulled through using a sequence I had spied about 20 mins previously. I remember it being hard. Probably the crux, for me at least. My memory of the gear is better. There is a weird keyhole slot on the right at the top of the runnel which takes a bomber wire (~ size 5 I think) which you can rotate 90 degrees. I think the placement is hard to spot. I didn't see it from below. Only from above when I was looking down at my feet. There is also a wire placement before the short traverse left before you get to the belay if you're strong enough to place it. I wasn't.