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Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022 (Read 3812 times)

duncan

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Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 28, 2022, 05:21:07 pm
M - A damp day and a late start at a familiar crag. Tried Blucher as it was non-tidal, likely to be dry, and a route I didn’t mind blowing the onsight on. My attempt didn’t get far. I’m a bit out of practice on steeper territory and didn’t feel I had the beans to commit. Simon gave it a rather more respectable go. Escaped up the gruesomely greasy groove of Tactician.
T - Chapel Point. Ultravox, Green Peace, and Blockhead. Good routes, dry rock, fine weather, and I got a good splashing. Only lacked a bird attack to be the complete sea-cliff experience. The tackle bag on the abseil rope tech. tip worked well.
W - Scheduled rest day, though the weather turned out to be better than forecast. Handstands, side planks, single-leg squats, frog squats, clifftop walk for 10km.
T - Huntsman’s Leap. Mint conditions: dry crag, low humidity, a low-ish low tide early afternoon. Lots of teams on the usual landward E2s-E5s. Simon gave Darkness at Noon a good go but no cigar. Looks amazing. Escaped up Honey Monster, great fun, as the tide approached. This gives a very good view of DoN and some might consider doing it as a reconnaissance. On the other hand, getting good tides, dry conditions and a suitable partner for the routes at the seaward end of The Leap doesn’t happen every week so if the stars align perhaps best to just get on with it. Relocated to The Castle so I could try something a bit hard (for me). My attempt at Under The Influence wasn’t much more effective than the one on Blucher. Both too steep and powerful for my current fitness.
F - Mowingword, pointed Simon at Sealhunt to warm-up. Excellent of course, although it seems to have polished-up considerably over the last 10 years. When I did it in 1998 and 2012, the crag was bird-banned much of the time, now it’s very much on people’s radar. After the tide had gone far enough out we transferred operations to Stackpole Head. Led Silver Shadow, one of the best single pitch E2s I’ve ever done. Improbably line, great climbing, and it keeps coming til the very end. Felt pretty worn out after this and we both had long drives ahead so called it a day. Drove to Weston.
S - Weston with Mum. Walked to Uphill Quarry and back: 5km which is a big deal for her at 87. I added another 5km. Drove back to London.
S - Proms with The Editor. Preparation for a long drive tomorrow.

Very enjoyable few days in Pembroke with Simon and a good social scene in the hut. Tides and weather didn’t always align but no such excuses on two of the days which is probably about par. Managed to avoid any DWS which is always a bonus  ;).


Plan: try harder things in Pembroke with coach Lee.

Gave this a reasonable try, though route choices were probably not the cleverest on reflection. I have done plenty of slabby trad. recently but no bouldering or sport climbing and a TFCC tweak is limiting the ancillary training I can do. I feel I’m low on what little power I had in the first place.


Plan: off to Scotland tomorrow for what will probably be the last hurrah of the summer.



« Last Edit: August 28, 2022, 05:36:49 pm by duncan »

shark

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#1 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 28, 2022, 08:42:36 pm
Thanks Duncan

M. Arrived May Cottage on the Sunday night and we waited for the drizzle to abate all day before going for a quick evening hit at St Govan’s. It was a bit humid and greasy. Duncan had identified a slightly eliminate “throw away E5” called the Blucher taking the cracks and prow left of Tactician. As the bottom section wasn’t too hard we could warm up en route so jumped straight on that. Duncan had a go but bailed just below the prow. I managed to get to the prow which is decorated with two threads and then trying to engage sport climbing mode climbed past them but ran out of ideas and strength at sloping edge above and took a 25 foot fall into free space. Tried again a couple of times with the same outcome but was good to get some falling practice in. Lowered off and Duncan escaped up Tactician HVS and whilst seconding I was able to retrieve all our gear from the Blucher.

Tues AM Chapel Head which didn’t start well when we both assumed that the other had the ropes. 🤦‍♂️ I led Ultravox E2 which I think is very serious if you take the described line (I didn’t!). Duncan led Green Peace E2 which I thought was poor and don’t think deserved it’s 2 stars and then I did the burly Blockheads E3 which in contrast had one star but deserved three.

Weds

Thurs Weather was glorious. Sunny, blue skies and no humidity. We went down into Huntsmans Leap with a low tide. It’s such a spooky place with the lapping water echoing around. Darkness at Noon was irresistible. The tide was low. The rock wasn’t greasy. I had a partner up for it. It was even chalked up. I’d done a few of the popular E5’s back in the day but they are single pitches, less tidal and not weird looking. Darkness has strange scoops and chimneys and with the walls at their closest an oppressive vibe. I was nervous but keen and despite finding it harrowing got to the top scoop of the first pitch. I did a lot of upping and downing above the gear to a point that would have been irreversible but ultimately found it too blind and steep to commit to with the prospect of a big nasty fall so backed down a final time and lowered off. I top roped back up to the highpoint to remove most of the gear and was surprised how hard some of the moves felt having just led them.

We then escaped up Honey Monster E2 on the opposite wall which was brilliant. It also gave us a great view of Darkness but it still wasn’t obvious how hard the moves were above my high point or whether I’d have been able to get any gear in before the traverse left. If anyone can let me know the score I’d be grateful.
Retrieving the gear after was a bit epic. The tide was in and reaching the gear in the scoop required climbing into it with the rope pulling me backwards. Things also got complicated when a tensioned Prussic jammed against a jumar and required some problem solving in a scary position.

After we went to the Castle for Duncan to try the suitably named 😉 Over the Hill. Walking back afterwards the evening light was stunning and took me back to past trips.

Fri Stackpole. Overcast, humid and still.  The logic was that the low tide was by then in the afternoon giving the grease a chance to burn off but that was looking iffy with the unforecasted poor weather so was regretting the choice on the lengthy walk in. Duncan encouraged me to do the excellent Seal Hunt E1 on Mowing Word first which cheered me up during which time the sun came out and a drying onshore wind started up so by the time we abbed into Stackpole it was bone dry. Duncan led us out up the stellar Silver Shadow E2 which takes in some amazing territory and features. Four stars from me. I sensed Duncan was quite tired after that and I was quite happy to end early on a high note especially with such a long drive back.

S.

S. PM Some foot on campusing

Shame not to get up Darkness at Noon but it felt too serious for my current state of mind but at least I gave it a decent go and maybe the experience has desensitised me for the next E5 onsight attempt. 

Need to put in some graft in the run up to RRG.

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#2 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 02:09:02 am
AWOL a few weeks. Final week of lads being over crushing and family -> Wedding -> Honeymoon.

Only one real climb of note in that time:
Equitas V7


S(today): G1. First time indoors since 28-Jul and first climbing for over two weeks. Climbing up to V5 on Kilter board. Just did a load (c. 10) of V4s at 40deg. Some shoulder press and elbow rehab for a niggle

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#3 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 11:06:14 am
Earlier this week I did some good training and hard board stuff and then on Friday I went to an industrial festival with a load of goths and I have just about pulled myself together today. Gonna go and do some gentle stuff this evening. Sob.

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#4 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 01:59:27 pm
Another good week for me. Quite pleased with progress following injuries/rehab.

Monday -
Did peloton ride and mobility.


Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday -
Light bouldering session


Thursday -

Quad block lift repeaters
Warm up1 repeater lifts (10kg) on quad block
Warm Up2 repeater lifts (17.5kg) on quad block. Open/half crimp/3finger open.
5x 6sec hangs on lattice edge. 
Body weight repeaters
Dead Hang: 20mm Edge. 4 sets x 3 reps x 00:07 per rep. Rest 00:03 between reps & 01:00 between sets
Did last set with 5 kg assistance
Only taped finger for repeaters.

Friday -
Peloton FTP test. Have improved my fitness quite a bit.

Saturday -

Bouldered at the depot. 20problem warm up then 3 hard problems. Did two of the 3.


Sunday.
Horseshoe Quarry for a half day session
Warmed up on Rotund Rooley/Schools Out combo, then went for a Redpoint of Lost Monolith, 6b+. Tried to flash it in March. This time took a whip from the 2nd last move on the crux. Rested 30mins then did it.
Neil tried Bruce’s Bonus, 6b. Couldn’t get past the 3rd bolt. I had a go and did sent it. Some kind of flash/Onsight combo. Really sustained route which was hard to read where to go. Had to fight really hard in places. But stoked to get it done first go.
I was knackered after this and it was time to bail.

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#5 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 02:32:59 pm
Currently feeling Wellsys post festival vibe...
M -
T - TCA, 2 hrs, more whites (6B+ to 7A). Did 18, incl 12 flashes. Several attempts on 3 others, 2 I think was mostly tiredness, but one seems really hard, not sure I can do it. 6 left on this set, 2 I've not tried yet. Knackered after, big session. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Knee tweaky in eve, prob down to some overenthusiastic hooking at the wall earlier (though no pain at the time).
W - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Pm TCA, 1hr, whites (6B+ to 7A). Quick hit to fill the hump before a long weekend of debauchery. Did 5 of the 6 I had left. The last is way out of grade and not a pleasant move, I got close to it in isolation, but not psyched to put any more time in. Knee still tweaky. Knackered after, again, despite a short session and reasonable sleep. Might still be feeling effects of covid last week.
T - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Travel to festival, party
F - party
S - party
S - party

69.5 kg
2022 plank total 230 min

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 03:29:46 pm
M - not much, work meal, at a pile of taps. No booze though.
T - some dumbells
W - finally managed to work out Westhill Orbital Path. 13km at 5:30 pace with a fair bit of vert. Hard going in Carnie Wood (should be Carnage Wood) loads of branches on the ground as there is very little left after Arwen. Actually did a BM session , first in ages.
T - evening outdoor climbing, finally managed to get tides and weather to visit a spot i found a year ago. Rock a bit snappy, but cleaned up well and did a few good new probs, and cleaned a few projects.
F - 5 km run with Kyle, 26:40,. Tough route, but boy did well and pbed by a good few mins.
S - climbing at TE. Bouldered a bit, but skin still sore from Thursday.
S - running out of easy local Munros and decent weather, headed to Clova for Tolmount and Tom Buidhe. Nice walk at the start on Jock's Road, amazing boulders there in need of an e-bike approach - about 5 km. walk. Started to rain as we approached the emergency bothy, but didn't last, then midges out. route back from Tom Buidhe follows no clear path, just a bog bash. Could have gone wrong but luckily kids thought it funny to be squelching through peat hags and falling into hidden burns. 22km walking total, long day, and no tables left at the Hotel (sadly not really a walker's / climber's place anymore, gone upmarket), ended up at chipper in Brechin.

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#7 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 04:02:10 pm
Power Club

Mon - AM swimming, PM light weights.
Tue - ab wheel, push ups, weights, pull ups.
Wed - AM swimming, PM shadow boxing.
Thu - ab wheel, shadow boxing with weights.
Fri - weights.
Sat - EMOM boxing bag, core.
Sun - 20' EMOM thruster + high pulls.







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#8 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 07:51:51 pm
Thanks Duncan

M. Arrived May Cottage on the Sunday night and we waited for the drizzle to abate all day before going for a quick evening hit at St Govan’s. It was a bit humid and greasy. Duncan had identified a slightly eliminate “throw away E5” called the Blucher taking the cracks and prow left of Tactician. As the bottom section wasn’t too hard we could warm up en route so jumped straight on that. Duncan had a go but bailed just below the prow. I managed to get to the prow which is decorated with two threads and then trying to engage sport climbing mode climbed past them but ran out of ideas and strength at sloping edge above and took a 25 foot fall into free space. Tried again a couple of times with the same outcome but was good to get some falling practice in. Lowered off and Duncan escaped up Tactician HVS and whilst seconding I was able to retrieve all our gear from the Blucher.

Tues AM Chapel Head which didn’t start well when we both assumed that the other had the ropes. 🤦‍♂️ I led Ultravox E2 which I think is very serious if you take the described line (I didn’t!). Duncan led Green Peace E2 which I thought was poor and don’t think deserved it’s 2 stars and then I did the burly Blockheads E3 which in contrast had one star but deserved three.

Weds

Thurs Weather was glorious. Sunny, blue skies and no humidity. We went down into Huntsmans Leap with a low tide. It’s such a spooky place with the lapping water echoing around. Darkness at Noon was irresistible. The tide was low. The rock wasn’t greasy. I had a partner up for it. It was even chalked up. I’d done a few of the popular E5’s back in the day but they are single pitches, less tidal and not weird looking. Darkness has strange scoops and chimneys and with the walls at their closest an oppressive vibe. I was nervous but keen and despite finding it harrowing got to the top scoop of the first pitch. I did a lot of upping and downing above the gear to a point that would have been irreversible but ultimately found it too blind and steep to commit to with the prospect of a big nasty fall so backed down a final time and lowered off. I top roped back up to the highpoint to remove most of the gear and was surprised how hard some of the moves felt having just led them.

We then escaped up Honey Monster E2 on the opposite wall which was brilliant. It also gave us a great view of Darkness but it still wasn’t obvious how hard the moves were above my high point or whether I’d have been able to get any gear in before the traverse left. If anyone can let me know the score I’d be grateful.
Retrieving the gear after was a bit epic. The tide was in and reaching the gear in the scoop required climbing into it with the rope pulling me backwards. Things also got complicated when a tensioned Prussic jammed against a jumar and required some problem solving in a scary position.

After we went to the Castle for Duncan to try the suitably named 😉 Over the Hill. Walking back afterwards the evening light was stunning and took me back to past trips.

Fri Stackpole. Overcast, humid and still.  The logic was that the low tide was by then in the afternoon giving the grease a chance to burn off but that was looking iffy with the unforecasted poor weather so was regretting the choice on the lengthy walk in. Duncan encouraged me to do the excellent Seal Hunt E1 on Mowing Word first which cheered me up during which time the sun came out and a drying onshore wind started up so by the time we abbed into Stackpole it was bone dry. Duncan led us out up the stellar Silver Shadow E2 which takes in some amazing territory and features. Four stars from me. I sensed Duncan was quite tired after that and I was quite happy to end early on a high note especially with such a long drive back.

S.

S. PM Some foot on campusing

Shame not to get up Darkness at Noon but it felt too serious for my current state of mind but at least I gave it a decent go and maybe the experience has desensitised me for the next E5 onsight attempt. 

Need to put in some graft in the run up to RRG.

I would like a refund on this Power Club entry as it looks suspiciously plagarised from a Facebook post by "Simon Lee"  :???:

remus

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#9 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 07:54:42 pm
T - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Travel to festival, party
F - party
S - party
S - party

69.5 kg

Is that a pre- or post-party weigh in?

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#10 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 08:54:25 pm
Ha! It's an approx average. Was actually under 69 today, lots of walking and dancing...

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#11 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 29, 2022, 10:21:29 pm
My session was shit and I felt awful although I did a cool move with a high toe-hook so ups and downs really.

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#12 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 09:56:31 am
Power Club:

M.
T.
W. 1 arm max hangs, 8kg on the pulley.
T.
F.
S.
S. Evening board session. Usual warm up and 3 x max hangs, then worked on a handful of projects. Finished by testing out my front levers, which are coming back!

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#13 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 10:02:51 am
Not much for me this week. Visiting a friend in Cornwall so we’ve had stops in Totnes, St Ives, Falmouth and lots of little places around there. Really nice and chilled, lots of beaches and swimming. No surfing though unfortunately - dogs are banned most places you can hire boards which has restricted us quite a lot.

Heading Bristol way this week so hoping to get out Saturday, Sunday and Tuesday. Probably going to Boulder at Sally in The Woods and maybe Biblins.

Unless anyone is local and fancies some (dog friendly) sport?

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#14 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 10:42:44 am
My session was shit and I felt awful although I did a cool move with a high toe-hook so ups and downs really.

I need to know more about these industrial / goth festivals?? Got a link?

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#15 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 11:43:09 am
dogs are banned most places you can hire boards which has restricted us quite a lot.

I forgot that beaches in the SW have this sort of BS in place in the summer. Don't want to risk tainting the sewerage outflows with a tiny bit of dog poo.

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#16 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 11:51:08 am
Managed to keep the swimming up, 5x11km cycle + 20 min swim plus 3x6.5km round trip to work. Two of the swims were windy and choppy - I felt much more worked after one of them.

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#17 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 11:56:19 am
dogs are banned most places you can hire boards which has restricted us quite a lot.

I forgot that beaches in the SW have this sort of BS in place in the summer. Don't want to risk tainting the sewerage outflows with a tiny bit of dog poo.

I’ve found a few potential options for tomorrow a bit further north. Going to call a few places to see if it’s worth stopping 👍🏻

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#18 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 01:07:27 pm
Trying to get back in the habit of Power Club.

Mon:
Tue: Gym - 3 sets 5-10 various. Keep reps low and weight high on legs and chest with idea that I don't want to build muscle, just strength. Back up to 3 sets 10 pull ups which felt fine. Need to get a dipping belt to do weighted pulls.
Wed:
Thu: First Aeropow workout. Did Boulder EMOTM for 20 min at about V2-4. Not sure I got the intensity quite right as didn't get very pumped. Then did foot on campussing which did get me very pumped. 105s>62s>48s>39s>44s>36s. Clearly had one set where I gave up too early. I was fairly pleased with this as a first session/baseline for improving on. Idea is to get fit for about a month/six weeks and try to get some sport climbing in for Sept/Oct.
Fri:
Sat: Gym again. 3 sets 5-8. Got up to 18kg on db shoulder press, 60kg on row which felt quite easy and bench which felt hard. My goal on bench is to get back to a set of 10 at bodyweight which I did aged 20, 21. That will need an additional 10kg and 5 reps. Don't know if this is achievable 20 years later but let's see where I am in 3 months. Don't know what my goal should be on db shoulder press, I feel like a novice at this lift. Feel like this is one of the most important for me for injury proofing. Main goal not get injured doing it!
Sun:

Overall - felt like quite a good week, goals at the moment are to build strength in the gym and fitness on the wall. As I up the aeropow I will have to drop the gym sessions I guess or I will be too knackered.

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#19 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 03:08:44 pm
On the dog beach surf theme, Saunton sands (baggy point ish) has surf hire and dogs I think. Between Bristol and Cornwall, so might be worth a. Look forecast depending.

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#20 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 03:48:40 pm
Yeah Saunton def does, I think putsborough is ok with dogs in summer too, and might have board hire?

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#21 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 05:12:08 pm
dogs are banned most places you can hire boards which has restricted us quite a lot.

I forgot that beaches in the SW have this sort of BS in place in the summer. Don't want to risk tainting the sewerage outflows with a tiny bit of dog poo.

looks a bit insipid in forecast, but worth sussing out for future reference.

I’ve found a few potential options for tomorrow a bit further north. Going to call a few places to see if it’s worth stopping 👍🏻

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#22 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 08:23:24 pm
My session was shit and I felt awful although I did a cool move with a high toe-hook so ups and downs really.

I need to know more about these industrial / goth festivals?? Got a link?

This was the festival. They'll probably post some pics of the event at some point!

https://infestuk.com/2022/05/04/infest-2022-is-on/

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#23 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 08:33:24 pm
I take it back, that sounds like a VERY different vibe from my weekend! (Although I did meet some lovely goths at Shambala)

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#24 Re: Power Club 659 22-28 August 2022
August 30, 2022, 08:43:34 pm
When I opened that page I got a Proustian rush from my student days of the odour of denim soaked with cider and piss!  Is it my imagination is there a revival of these "boutique" festivals?  Maybe a post-Covid thing due to more people staying in the UK.  I remember a trend of them in the late 90's - early 2000s - the big one was the yearly All Tomorrow's Parties at a Pontins in Camber Sands - I think the first few were curated by Belle and Sebastian and Mogwai.

 

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