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Achieving perfection in climbing (Read 4360 times)

Offwidth

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#25 Re: Achieving perfection in climbing
August 25, 2022, 08:31:43 am
This long buried gem has some old school pondering on related themes (thanks due to Uncle Derek for the spot)

https://bbcrewind.co.uk/asset/600eb7b53a53aa002791fbac?q=climbing

jwi

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#26 Re: Achieving perfection in climbing
August 25, 2022, 10:53:36 am
I am very sceptical that perfect movement can be achieved in climbing, even on stuff that is relatively easy to climb.

Even on musical instruments perfection is extremely hard to achieve—even for professionals who can practice insane hours per day as they don't fatigue much playing their instruments. There is almost no studio recording of a longer musical piece that is not a mixture of several different performances of the same piece, and in the case of non-fretted instruments like the violin you can be pretty sure that pitch correcting software has been applied to the signal, even on the performances by the greatest musicians alive.

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#27 Re: Achieving perfection in climbing
August 25, 2022, 11:57:59 am
You need to come soloing with me at Stanage sometime jwi.

But seriously, if we define perfection as unattainable then I think that maybe isn't a very useful definition. An analogy: if you watch Ronnie complete the fastest ever 147 you could find the odd point where shots dould have been executed better. But you could argue those mistakes force harder shots which actually raise the overall level of performance, which is the greatest there's ever been. Is that not therefore perfection? And, crucially, he never runs out of position, which is not a pinpoint thing but continually putting yourself in a position you can work with. I think these ideas transfer to climbing quite well.

Personally I find onsight performances the most satisfying because they involve creativity which adds a dimension. So rather than nit-picking  precision on a redpoint, for which the music analogy above is appropriate (jazz aside obvs), you can take a broader view that consistently hitting the sequences right first time and never running out of position or even climbing yourself out of an error is a thing close to perfection, by which I mean like Ronnie it may not have been bettered.

I'd also add that an important dimension was missed from the OP, which was that Varian did not simply find a problem that tested him to the utmost, it was a new problem at a crag he has largely developed himself, in his extended backyard. In the interview I think it's clear those are as important to his idea of perfection as the technical challenge.

SA Chris

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#28 Re: Achieving perfection in climbing
August 25, 2022, 12:39:19 pm
here's perfection on a par with Ronnie.


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#29 Re: Achieving perfection in climbing
August 26, 2022, 07:54:12 pm
That's a beauty!

You need to come soloing with me at Stanage sometime jwi.
I was chatting to someone the other day and the conclusion was that you are basically an almost pure board climber, the only difference being your "board" is slabbier and made of out gritstone  :P

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#30 Re: Achieving perfection in climbing
August 29, 2022, 09:16:29 am
You need to come soloing with me at Stanage sometime jwi.


I'd love to. Seriously.

 

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