[mr chaz]

Power club:
S. Spent the night at a local campsite, first time having the little one (8 months now  ) sleep in the campervan, slightly stressful but everyone survived! Yay!

Good effort. Found this desperate trying to manage noise etc

We put him down at 7, spent an hour getting him to stop crying and go to sleep (technical crux), then sat outside drank a bottle of wine and successfully snook into the van at 10 without waking him (redpoint crux), only to erupt into screaming at about 10:15 (fell clipping the chains). Then did 3 hour sleep cycles with a screaming match in between for the rest of the night! (few laps of the crux for training) Type 2 fun.

[SA Chris]

Well done for trying, we just couldn't be bothered.

[James Malloch]

M. Relaxed day

T. Drive back to Portland

W. Tried some horrible 7a at the new cuttings, way too warm.

T. Went up mindmeld 7a+ and then it started raining. Managed it on top rope to get the draws out.

F. Led mindmeld to put the draws back in for Zora. Also did some adjacent 6’s.

S. Day in Weymouth

S. Went bolt to bolt on The Mouth Waters 7a+. Thought it would be hard to link so just went up on top rope. Turned out it was fine and I should have led it.

Nice week in Portland again, this time with Zora. Didn’t manage to get to any other crags - combination on laziness and lack of psyche. But the temperatures were much better than the previous week.

On the way to Cornwall now. Might try and fit a Boulder in but it’s mainly to visit a friend.

[James Malloch]

To all those surfing…

If I had a lesson whilst in Cornwall, are you likely to get much done in 90 mins? It’s something I’ve always wanted to try.

Don’t want to get into it properly but if, by the end of 90 mins, you might be able to actually do some tiny waves I might try to organise it.

[User deactivated.]

To all those surfing…

If I had a lesson whilst in Cornwall, are you likely to get much done in 90 mins? It’s something I’ve always wanted to try.

Don’t want to get into it properly but if, by the end of 90 mins, you might be able to actually do some tiny waves I might try to organise it.

As you are athletic (a good climber) I think you could expect to be standing up on whitewater (waves that have already broken) within an hour if you're on a big foam board.

For your first time i think you'd actually be better off without a lesson so that you have more time to figure it out and practice. Just watch a few youtube lessons beforehand and practice popping up on the floor. A lesson would probably be more useful when you want to progress to unbroken waves.

Treat it like projecting and be perceptive to what's happening. Nose dives while paddling in? Position yourself further back on the board. Etc.

[SA Chris]

This ^ choose a relatively safe beginner's beach where you won't get into too much trouble (preferably lifeguarded) and give it a go the first few times. Plenty pushups / pop-up practice before and a bit of swimming beforehand would help. First time I rented a foamie I was up and standing after a few tries, but I had been bodyboarding for a long time beforehand, so able to read water and select waves reasonably well.

This should probably be in the "one for the surfers thread".

[Wood FT]

Power club:
S. Spent the night at a local campsite, first time having the little one (8 months now  ) sleep in the campervan, slightly stressful but everyone survived! Yay!

Good effort. Found this desperate trying to manage noise etc

We put him down at 7, spent an hour getting him to stop crying and go to sleep (technical crux), then sat outside drank a bottle of wine and successfully snook into the van at 10 without waking him (redpoint crux), only to erupt into screaming at about 10:15 (fell clipping the chains). Then did 3 hour sleep cycles with a screaming match in between for the rest of the night! (few laps of the crux for training) Type 2 fun.

  Ah, life.

[Aussiegav]

Late post.
Monday -
Did peloton ride and mobility.


Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday -
Light bouldering session


Thursday -

Quad block lift repeaters
Warm up1 repeater lifts (10kg) on quad block
Warm Up2 repeater lifts (17.5kg) on quad block. Open/half crimp/3finger open.
5x 6sec hangs on lattice edge. 
Body weight repeaters
Dead Hang: 20mm Edge. 4 sets x 3 reps x 00:07 per rep. Rest 00:03 between reps & 01:00 between sets
Did last set with 5 kg assistance
Only taped finger for repeaters.

Friday -

The goal of the day – Gypsy Kings. Spent the last session trying it and worked out a sequence at the end of the day.

We then went to College Buttress and I Onsighted 39 & a half steps, 6a. Frantic Manoeuvres, 6b. This was a really good route and I was very pleased with the Onsight.
I then got on Gypsy Kings. I worked the sequences again, making a few changes here and there. Made the start a lot easier & less balancing.

We had lunch before the Redpoint. It went first go, very steadily. I was really happy. The hardest route I’ve done in a year.
I wanted to do another 6b on the main wall, it’s such good rock. The climb, Prefect Day looked good. Thin slab to an overhanging roof.
I was tired, but still was keen to climb more. Another climber said the route was good but more like 6b+. I managed to get to the final section but ran out of energy pulling around the roof. I climbed it too slow and didn’t think to clip the last bolt down climb to the great rest. Guess that’s the tiredness of the mind & body.
We then went to the lower tier sector and did two grade 4’s for Asa & Ethan to climb.
A great day out. Done loads at College Buttress now. Such a great area for climbing. Need a change now and climb somewhere new.

Saturday -

Rest day


Sunday.
Worked