[shark]

11.8-9 average 163.3lbs

M

T. AM Weighing heavy. Home warm up. Tor. Hot. No one there. Like a pro took my fan. Like a punter forgot the battery. Again. Andy Harris swung by with kids and had a natter.Tried the hard moves on Bens then had an unsuccessful go at trying to do AnCap on THFML. Managed one set of 3 with a minute rest between goes then quickly went to shit when I tried a second set 5 mins later. Couldn’t even do it once when I tried a 3rd set. Went to station cafe with Poppy

W. AM was going to join Keith and Mark at X but felt wiped. Quick test on the pull-up bar confirmed zero snap.

T Still tired

F AM Did a home warm up but felt tired. Went back to bed instead of going to the Tor and slept till 1pm

S Gardening

S Eve Driving to Pembroke

Was hoping to do a decent amount of training this week but was too tired (presumably from previous week in Wales as can’t think what else) which was annoying as wanted to start doing some groundwork for RRG. In more positive news Poppy exceeded the required grades to do Human, Social and Political Sciences at St Catherine’s, Cambridge. She’d really set her heart on the course so massive relief all round that’s she’s got in. Also lined up some lodgers so house won’t be empty when her and Tommy leave (he’s starting a one year industrial placement at Glaxo in Stevenage as part of his Chemistry MSc).

Pembroke with Duncan this week. Aiming to get Duncan to push himself, try another E5 which I’ve not done before (Circus, Circus and/or John Wayne sound suitably amenable) and get on Stackpole although tide times are a bit shit.

[teestub]

Be interesting to see how that outdoor ancap action goes when you’re feeing fresher, may have identified something to work on there that would show quick returns.

[shark]

Be interesting to see how that outdoor ancap action goes when you’re feeing fresher, may have identified something to work on there that would show quick returns.

Hope so. Also added some edges to my board this week to do some foot on campusing too.

[Wood FT]

11.8-9 average 163.3lbs

M

T. AM Weighing heavy. Home warm up. Tor. Hot. No one there. Like a pro took my fan. Like a punter forgot the battery. Again. Andy Harris swung by with kids and had a natter.Tried the hard moves on Bens then had an unsuccessful go at trying to do AnCap on THFML. Managed one set of 3 with a minute rest between goes then quickly went to shit when I tried a second set 5 mins later. Couldn’t even do it once when I tried a 3rd set. Went to station cafe with Poppy

W. AM was going to join Keith and Mark at X but felt wiped. Quick test on the pull-up bar confirmed zero snap.

T Still tired

F AM Did a home warm up but felt tired. Went back to bed instead of going to the Tor and slept till 1pm

S Gardening

S Eve Driving to Pembroke

Was hoping to do a decent amount of training this week but was too tired (presumably from previous week in Wales as can’t think what else) which was annoying as wanted to start doing some groundwork for RRG. In more positive news Poppy exceeded the required grades to do Human, Social and Political Sciences at St Catherine’s, Cambridge. She’d really set her heart on the course so massive relief all round that’s she’s got in. Also lined up some lodgers so house won’t be empty when her and Tommy leave (he’s starting a one year industrial placement at Glaxo in Stevenage as part of his Chemistry MSc).

Pembroke with Duncan this week. Aiming to get Duncan to push himself, try another E5 which I’ve not done before (Circus, Circus and/or John Wayne sound suitably amenable) and get on Stackpole although tide times are a bit shit.

Think of the tides being great for DWS instead. Done perfect pitch?

[shark]

Duncan doesn’t do DWS. I’m wary of it too

[Wood FT]

Duncan doesn’t do DWS. I’m wary of it too

Fair enough. I don't do trad. All is balanced in the cosmos.

[Duma]

M - poor sleep with the heat and illness. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Feeling ok, but still positive so not allowed into the office for my night shifts.
T - better temps, but coughing affected sleep. Still positive. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
W - better sleep. Just a bit of phlegm and slight chest tightness now. Still positive. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Eve one arm max hangs session from crimped app but on bm2000 middle edge : 6x10s @ 55kg on each arm. R just about completed every hang, L failed a couple towards the end.
T - sleep ok, symptoms maybe a touch milder. Test negative. 3 min plank. Pm TCA 90 min bouldering. Longer than normal warm up, but managed 3 blues from the new (to me) hard set too. 12 hr night shift.
F - sleep am. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Too much beer in eve.
S - am headache. Pm Bloc for a change of scene. Hot. Few each from the blue (V4-V5), yellow (V5-V6), and white (V6 and up) sets. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
S - TCA 90 min, whites (6B+ to 7A). Always a fun and ego boosting grade range, did 8, tried 3 more. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.

69.5 kg
2022 plank total 226 min

Not done much for a couple of weeks with hols, and first half of the week written off with illness, but a few sessions since then. Lost some weight, prob a combination of illness and not drinking due to illness. Will see if it stays off for the next few days..

[User deactivated.]

M - limit board session. Slow ring muscle ups, nordic hamstring curls.

T - 1 hour mobility work

W - max half crimp pickups 6 x 57.5kg. Double shoulder width pullups 4x6 +20kg, standing military press 4x6 60kg.

T - 6 hours of surfing at Cayton Bay! Felt completely wiped afterwards.

F - board session with pinch/compression focus. Rings IYT's nose to floor

S - 1 hour mobility

S - Kenzoku session 2. Slightly condensed but manageable with chalking/brushing before every attempt. Forgot fan but did bring a ladder and have now sorted all but 2 moves. Still having trouble with the moves from the kneebar and I'm not getting many attempts before damaging my thigh too much. Could be due to pad movement so next time I'm shaving my legs and going full Dave Graham with glue and tape.

30 min core session, 30 min mobility.

[SA Chris]

crap week climbing wise.

M- drove back from Perthshire in the rain, forget there is a wee bouldering gym in Dunkeld now, would have been good for a stop.
T - bit of weights.
W - run, Westhill. 11.5 km. tried to follow marked Orbital Trail, but markings are shit, luckily screenshotted pdf. Some weights. Was going to go to wall, but closing at 9 over summer now. So shit.
T - not much i can recall.
F - 5km run with Kyle. He wanted to try do 5km in half an hour and did it, I was surprised.
S - Outdoor pool. In spite of strange warm salt water and crowds, managed a few lengths. Ran home, hot 14km.
S - not much, sorting house out for back to school. Short local walk. Some weigths.

upside is now 50km ahead of running target for the year.

[Wellsy]

I've had a few weeks away from PC but I have been active, just trying to rebalance my life a bit to train more efficiently, climb for more enjoyable reasons and just ease off the pedal a bit

Of course I am still training but my indoor climbing these days is almost entirely on the board, and my outdoor climbing is almost entirely maglime bouldering.

Recently did The Big Dig 7A at Earth Quarry (jury is out as to whether I accidentally did the Big Eliminate 7A+ just by accident, either way its def soft) and just repeated loads of shit up to about 6C at Anston. Yet to do Samwise Left Hand, what a sandbag at 6C! Got a bit closer to Nazgul 7B and generally just fingerboarding twice a week, weighted pulls, Bench, ohp, board and a bit of biceps and core inside.

Anyway fun had etc

[duncan]

Duncan doesn’t do DWS. I’m wary of it too

Fair enough. I don't do trad. All is balanced in the cosmos.

I might be more tempted by DWS if the water was 28C like the Great Barrier Reef！

M - see previous week
T - Walked 10km. Proms: Prokofiev 5th Symphony, new to me but a belter.
W - Stanage with The Editor, her first outdoor climbing for a decade so we had a splendid day puntering around the Heather Wall area.
T - Squats (mainly) for hip flexibility. Brief fingerboard ‘warm-up’  to test/stress the wrist. 3s hangs on decreasing sized holds. Felt OK albeit not pain-free. Walked 10km.
F - Brief fingerboard as above. Walked 10km exploring Leytonstone: the old family home.
S - Brief fingerboard as above. Walked 10km.
S - Drove to Pembroke. Walked ~10km along the cliff top to The Cauldron and back. Familiar but lovely.

Quiet week after exertions in Wales but probably good for the wrist.

Plan: try harder things in Pembroke with coach Lee.

[User deactivated.]

Recently did The Big Dig 7A at Earth Quarry (jury is out as to whether I accidentally did the Big Eliminate 7A+ just by accident, either way its def soft)

Did you have a look at Midnight Caller? It's very workable for 7C and really not that bad if you can get the positions right. Great problem too!

[Wellsy]

7C! A skip of 7B and 7B+ for me, but if I ever go back I'll look at the moves. Diamond White 7B seemed like the line of the crag, terrifying though

[Will Hunt]

I might be more tempted by DWS if the water was 28C like the Great Barrier Reef!

Barrel Zawn is an incredibly friendly beginner's DWS spot. More like deep water bouldering. You can go down to the bottom and have a quick dip which will then make falling in seem less uninviting (not that either of you would fall in at Barrel Zawn as there isn't really anything difficult there except the S3 nonsense). I think you'd be surprised how warm the water is (I do NOT like getting into cold water).

[spidermonkey09]

Second that, Barrel Zawn is amazing and really fun. I'm a complete DWS wuss and found it fine.

[Nutty]

Two weeks for me:

Monday - Hip adductor and abdominal physio exercises

Tuesday - 3.3km run @4:08/km pace. Intended on running further but nearly went over on my ankle stepping on a tree root in the gloom and decided to curtail things.

Wednesday - Wall session. Easy routes.

Thursday - Hip adductor and abdominal physio exercises

Friday - Rest.

Saturday - Rest: packing for family holiday.

Sunday - Travel to Corsica.

Monday - Yoga, hip adductor and abdominal physio exercises.

Tuesday - Short walk.

Wednesday - Set off pre-dawn to run/walk up the local hill (Capu di a Veta, 703m). 12km and 761m ascent. Total time 2hrs 34mins. Very pleased with how this went as I ran a decent amount of it. Couple of navigation issues slowed things up (took a while to find the descent route off the summit, took a wrong turn on one of the roads to the start of the trail and had to back track etc.) The hip/groin/abdominals held up to it well, especially when running the trickier downhill sections.

Thursday - Yoga first thing. Storm then hit, knocking out power and water for most the day.

Friday - Yoga. Short walk.

Saturday - Short walk.

Sunday - Travel back home.

Generally easy couple of weeks. Probably ate and drank too much on holiday. Think the hip/groin issue is pretty much fixed from a running point of view as I didn't really feel it on the descent from Capu di a Veta and I expected that I might.

[SA Chris]

I think you'd be surprised how warm the water is

Compared to here, it's like a bath, should have done a DWS at Craig Stirling when you had a chance to compare. Also, a warm sunny day can make a huge difference in the water and out, and also makes the water look a lot more inviting.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - weights.
Tue - board climbing. 29°, 60% humidity. Terrible.
Wed - very light weights.
Thu - board climbing.
Fri - loaded carries.
Sat - ab wheel, push ups, shoulders.
Sun - AM swimming; PM weights.

[andy popp]

Cycle/swim routine six days. This week is a bit of crunch week as I see if I can find some replacement activities now that it's going to harder to go swimming regularly.

[Duncan Disorderly]

M: Surf pop training, yoga and planks...
T: Routes @ AW - Short session up to F6c
W: Nowt - Drive to Cayton Bay as MSW says there's swell...
T: AM: Surf @ Cayton - Set alarm for 6 am but get woken by the sun at 5ish... Decide to not try and get more sleep and am rewarded by a magical sunrise, an uncrowded lineup and some mint waves! Bigger than I was expecting too...Really struggled to get out the back, managed to catch a few with one being way larger than expected (swell was supposed to be 4-5ft but this bad boy was more like 8!! Would have bailed but once I realised it was that big I was already committed), ballsed my takeoff meaning I stood up way too late and slightly off-balance so got completely flipped by some chop as the wave broke... Knocked the wind out of myself and took two on the head (not quite a hold down but close!)... Had to have a bit of time out after that and spent the rest of the session working on my pop in the white water... Totally trashed but back in Sheff and at work by lunchtime... Great!
PM: Routes @ AW - Felt like a sack of spanners but did a load up to F6b+ - Big day!!
F: Rest
S-S: London...

Put the hours in - not necessarily all climbing but feels good to mix it up a bit and was ace to prove to myself that I can do a dawn raid on the East Coast when it's working... Good to know! Enjoying surfing a bit too much right now and while I'm still utterly shit I'm learning summat every time I go in the water - addictive stuff!
This week: More climbing - Kalymnos is looming!

[User deactivated.]

T: AM: Surf @ Cayton - Set alarm for 6 am but get woken by the sun at 5ish... Decide to not try and get more sleep and am rewarded by a magical sunrise, an uncrowded lineup and some mint waves! Bigger than I was expecting too...Really struggled to get out the back, managed to catch a few with one being way larger than expected (swell was supposed to be 4-5ft but this bad boy was more like 8!! Would have bailed but once I realised it was that big I was already committed), ballsed my takeoff meaning I stood up way too late and slightly off-balance so got completely flipped by some chop as the wave broke... Knocked the wind out of myself and took two on the head (not quite a hold down but close!)... Had to have a bit of time out after that and spent the rest of the session working on my pop in the white water... Totally trashed but back in Sheff and at work by lunchtime... Great!

Seems like you were probably walking out while I was walking in! I concur, the waves were big, especially for me since I can barely surf

[mr chaz]

Power club:

M. 1 arm max hangs then some board mileage.
T.
W.
T. Warmup hangs and then decent limit board session. Managing a few new problems only using Probes’ desperate wooden footholds, mega!
F.
S. Spent the night at a local campsite, first time having the little one (8 months now  ) sleep in the campervan, slightly stressful but everyone survived! Yay!
S.

[Wood FT]

Power club:
S. Spent the night at a local campsite, first time having the little one (8 months now  ) sleep in the campervan, slightly stressful but everyone survived! Yay!

Good effort. Found this desperate trying to manage noise etc

[Duncan Disorderly]

Seems like you were probably walking out while I was walking in! I concur, the waves were big, especially for me since I can barely surf

Glad it wasn't just me that thought it was big... Great spot tho, hadn't been before (and I can barely surf either btw...) Psyched to go back, got me a 5/4 suit so gonna try and brave the winter months... Hopefully see you out there

[SA Chris]

decent hood, boots and gloves are way more important than a thick suit. I've got an EXCEL Polypro hooded rashvest, great for warmth. The 5mm 3 finger mitts (I have the XCEL Drylock) are indispensable. Mittens might be warmer, but you lose too much dexterity. I've got Alder Plasma 7mm boots and love them.

Coming to the time of year when it's traditionally best for surfing, but East Coast hasn't been great the last few years. Northumberland is great for mixing surf with climbing weekend.

[mr chaz]

Power club:
S. Spent the night at a local campsite, first time having the little one (8 months now  ) sleep in the campervan, slightly stressful but everyone survived! Yay!

Good effort. Found this desperate trying to manage noise etc

We put him down at 7, spent an hour getting him to stop crying and go to sleep (technical crux), then sat outside drank a bottle of wine and successfully snook into the van at 10 without waking him (redpoint crux), only to erupt into screaming at about 10:15 (fell clipping the chains). Then did 3 hour sleep cycles with a screaming match in between for the rest of the night! (few laps of the crux for training) Type 2 fun.

[SA Chris]

Well done for trying, we just couldn't be bothered.

[James Malloch]

M. Relaxed day

T. Drive back to Portland

W. Tried some horrible 7a at the new cuttings, way too warm.

T. Went up mindmeld 7a+ and then it started raining. Managed it on top rope to get the draws out.

F. Led mindmeld to put the draws back in for Zora. Also did some adjacent 6’s.

S. Day in Weymouth

S. Went bolt to bolt on The Mouth Waters 7a+. Thought it would be hard to link so just went up on top rope. Turned out it was fine and I should have led it.

Nice week in Portland again, this time with Zora. Didn’t manage to get to any other crags - combination on laziness and lack of psyche. But the temperatures were much better than the previous week.

On the way to Cornwall now. Might try and fit a Boulder in but it’s mainly to visit a friend.

[James Malloch]

To all those surfing…

If I had a lesson whilst in Cornwall, are you likely to get much done in 90 mins? It’s something I’ve always wanted to try.

Don’t want to get into it properly but if, by the end of 90 mins, you might be able to actually do some tiny waves I might try to organise it.

[User deactivated.]

To all those surfing…

If I had a lesson whilst in Cornwall, are you likely to get much done in 90 mins? It’s something I’ve always wanted to try.

Don’t want to get into it properly but if, by the end of 90 mins, you might be able to actually do some tiny waves I might try to organise it.

As you are athletic (a good climber) I think you could expect to be standing up on whitewater (waves that have already broken) within an hour if you're on a big foam board.

For your first time i think you'd actually be better off without a lesson so that you have more time to figure it out and practice. Just watch a few youtube lessons beforehand and practice popping up on the floor. A lesson would probably be more useful when you want to progress to unbroken waves.

Treat it like projecting and be perceptive to what's happening. Nose dives while paddling in? Position yourself further back on the board. Etc.

[SA Chris]

This ^ choose a relatively safe beginner's beach where you won't get into too much trouble (preferably lifeguarded) and give it a go the first few times. Plenty pushups / pop-up practice before and a bit of swimming beforehand would help. First time I rented a foamie I was up and standing after a few tries, but I had been bodyboarding for a long time beforehand, so able to read water and select waves reasonably well.

This should probably be in the "one for the surfers thread".

[Wood FT]

Power club:
S. Spent the night at a local campsite, first time having the little one (8 months now  ) sleep in the campervan, slightly stressful but everyone survived! Yay!

Good effort. Found this desperate trying to manage noise etc

We put him down at 7, spent an hour getting him to stop crying and go to sleep (technical crux), then sat outside drank a bottle of wine and successfully snook into the van at 10 without waking him (redpoint crux), only to erupt into screaming at about 10:15 (fell clipping the chains). Then did 3 hour sleep cycles with a screaming match in between for the rest of the night! (few laps of the crux for training) Type 2 fun.

  Ah, life.

[Aussiegav]

Late post.
Monday -
Did peloton ride and mobility.


Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday -
Light bouldering session


Thursday -

Quad block lift repeaters
Warm up1 repeater lifts (10kg) on quad block
Warm Up2 repeater lifts (17.5kg) on quad block. Open/half crimp/3finger open.
5x 6sec hangs on lattice edge. 
Body weight repeaters
Dead Hang: 20mm Edge. 4 sets x 3 reps x 00:07 per rep. Rest 00:03 between reps & 01:00 between sets
Did last set with 5 kg assistance
Only taped finger for repeaters.

Friday -

The goal of the day – Gypsy Kings. Spent the last session trying it and worked out a sequence at the end of the day.

We then went to College Buttress and I Onsighted 39 & a half steps, 6a. Frantic Manoeuvres, 6b. This was a really good route and I was very pleased with the Onsight.
I then got on Gypsy Kings. I worked the sequences again, making a few changes here and there. Made the start a lot easier & less balancing.

We had lunch before the Redpoint. It went first go, very steadily. I was really happy. The hardest route I’ve done in a year.
I wanted to do another 6b on the main wall, it’s such good rock. The climb, Prefect Day looked good. Thin slab to an overhanging roof.
I was tired, but still was keen to climb more. Another climber said the route was good but more like 6b+. I managed to get to the final section but ran out of energy pulling around the roof. I climbed it too slow and didn’t think to clip the last bolt down climb to the great rest. Guess that’s the tiredness of the mind & body.
We then went to the lower tier sector and did two grade 4’s for Asa & Ethan to climb.
A great day out. Done loads at College Buttress now. Such a great area for climbing. Need a change now and climb somewhere new.

Saturday -

Rest day


Sunday.
Worked