[Moo]

Hi just in font with a friend they were dragging on a shallow pocket with mid two and heard a twang in their hand.

No pain in the ring finger itself and could half crimp without pain immediately afterwards. Woken up this morning with a swollen palm and more pain / numbness subsided after a bit of movement.

Moving the fingers hurts in the palm where they have early onset Dupuytren.

Sounds to me like they’ve just aggravated that and hopefully it’ll settle down pretty quick. I don’t know what a partial tendon rupture look and feel like.

I’ve no experience with this type of injury so any knowledge would be gratefully received.

[36chambers]

could be a lumbrical injury?



I've knackered mine several times in the past, once resulting in a faint bruise in my palm. They should be some obvious pain in the palm when doing an open hand front 3 and the pinky is dropped and bent.

It might be possible to continue cranking fine with 4 finger grips, just be very careful the pinky doesn't suddenly drop off as this will obviously make it way worse.

[Moo]

Yup seems promising cheers. What was the rehab like ?

[36chambers]

Completely fine compared to other hand/finger injuries.

After a week, or so, of avoiding dropping my pinky whatsoever, I started doing very low intensity 3 finger drags at the start of my climbing sessions, either with feet on the ground still, or doing pick ups with 3-10 kg, and slowly built it up from there.

It didn't really affect my general climbing too much as it was fairly easy to continue climbing on "safe" holds and just being a bit more reserved.

edit: if it is a lumbrical sprain, once it is healed up, I'd recommend your friend does some proper open handed fingerboarding to prevent this happening again. Shamefully, it took me 3 separate injuries to finally get the message that I needed to dedicate some serious effort towards training it.

[Moo]

Nice one chief I’ll let him know

[Paul B]

My experience of an injury that sounds similar was from Rattle and Hump. I'd been planning on going to the Frankenjura so had been deadhanging in all sorts of combinations to try and get ready for the pockets; I hit one of the crimps badly and only two fingers latched on but instead of adjusting sensibly I thought I was now an openhand hero and proceeded to pull. Something went bang (others at the crag heard it from a fair distance) and my hand was like a claw (opening it out wasn't pleasant).

My experience onwards was that crimping I was totally fine with BUT if I went for a hold and my fingers opened out or I accidentally dropped my pinkie it was extremely painful. I've still got a large lump in my hand from this that's degenerated into the typical climber's Dupuytrens. I'm not sure which came first. The 'jura trip was predictably painful and not overly successful.

[mrjonathanr]

Yes but did you tick Rattle and Hump?