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Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022 (Read 2162 times)

shark

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Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 15, 2022, 09:51:32 am
M. Eve Drove to North Wales

T. Slog up to Cyrn Las with Rory in blistering heat. Was thinking we should do the Grooves to warm up but felt warm enough! and figured it might be confidence sapping. Led up first two pitches of Main Wall to access start of the Skull E4 which was the main objective. Rory combined next two pitches. Fucked off to fall off the crux seconding marginally lower than when I came off leading in 1986 when a hold broke!. However, got to lead the amazing new-to-me last pitch which went without mishap. Screwed up the descent off the crag and the walk down hurt my knees (think I’ll get some poles). Sweated buckets and completely battered at the end of the day.

W. Still knackered. Went to Hidden Wall and belayed and followed Rory on El Guide Direct and belayed him on Rimsky Korsakov E5 but he backed off halfway up unhappy with a nut placement. Spotted a potential new line.

T. Back to Hidden Wall. Went on the new line thinking it would be a good HVS/E1 warm up. Turned out to be harder and bolder than that and I  bottled it on the headwall as a key hold was grubby and a foothold snapped so reversed to gear and lowered off. Karl kindly abbed down and gave it a quick clean for me and then I did it. Karl followed and then Geoff Goddard and Tim Lowe both led on my gear. Quite tough for E2 we thought but moves not hard enough to warrant E3. Moved round the corner to Rembrandt Pussypants E3 6a. Karl had a go but backed off. I’d had a torrid time on this 6 years ago but went smoothly today. Moved on to Cwm Blas Bach. Upped and downed on Weasels Ripped my Flesh E4 without weighting the gear but didn’t feel up for it so took gear out and reversed down. Duncan and Hugo turned up.

F. Partnerless. Was too hot and I felt too lazy to go exploring or do easy soloing so loafed in around the hut in the shade and tried to find out about the gear on Rimsky Korsikov.

S. Leisurely start. Duncan was having a rest day and kindly offered to belay which freed Karl to head up to Skye earlier. Was apprehensive about getting on Rimsky. On the walk in I was almost hoping someone would be on it so I’d have an adequate excuse not to do it but no such luck. To warm up climbed up and placed some gear and reversed down then had a proper go.

The gear was better than I thought it would be but found myself above gear at the base of the top crack and facing what looked like a thrutchy move not realising I could have placed a large cam from where I was 🤦‍♂️ and bottled it and reversed to the last piece and lowered off.

We sat around chatting for an hour then I pulled the ropes and although tired from the first attempt led it clean. Disappointed that I didn’t get it first go but it did feel like a stretch getting on it at all. Good patient support from Duncan and Hugo
Eve. Headed back to Sheffield

S.

Great trip. The Skull top pitch was amazing. Then doing a classic E5 and the first ascent of a decent E2 was the icing on the cake. All confidence boosting stuff that hopefully I can keep building on.

Bit of footage of me near the top of Rimsky here: https://www.instagram.com/reel/ChM7YrmjEs9/

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#1 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 15, 2022, 10:10:40 am
Good read there Shark. Thanks.



Monday -
Did peloton ride and mobility. Started my Crimpd+ Base fitness 5 week programme


Tuesday
Awesome Walls after work. Did back to back lap session on new routes as I could get a belay. Warmed up on easy Autos then did 3 sets on feet on Campus pulls. Then Onsight a 6b for final warmup.
Back to back session
Set 1. 6a+/6a set 2. 6a/6a. Set 3. 6a+/6a+. Set 4. 6a/6a. Set 5. Failed Onsight attempt on a 6b+.

Wednesday -
Mobility & rest day

Thursday -

Finger rehab followed by Body weight repeaters
Managed to warm up fingers without taping. Only taped for the repeaters.
Body weight repeaters is 4sets of 3 with a 7:3 ratio. 1min rest between sets.
Doing repeaters was max effort. Needed a 90s rest for the last set.
Used Lattice Quad block for the first time. The edge feels bigger than the wooden one.
Did Mobility, stretching & core afterwards.

Friday -
45min peloton ride & stretching

Saturday -
Two session day.
(AM)
Did finger board session early in the morning.
Warm up1 repeater lifts (10kg) on quad block
Warm Up2 repeater lifts (15kg on quad block. Open/half crimp/3finger open.
5x 6sec hangs on lattice edge.

Body weight repeaters
Dead Hang: 20mm Edge. 4 sets x 3 reps x 00:07 per rep. Rest 00:03 between reps & 01:00 between sets. Max efforts on these. Didn’t need to extend the rest period on the last set. 

(PM)

I went to Awesome Walls at 5pm for an hour of boulder Mileage session. I did a V1-V3 bouldering circuit and then flashed 3 problems on the 2019 Moonboard at 25degrees.
Finished with a 6min core session.
Had to tape my finger for the Moonboard. First time on the Moonboard since 24 May.



Sunday.

Went back to College Buttress with Neil & Asa. It was another 30+ degree day. Got there at 11:30 & it’s was very sunny.

Warmed up on Stepping Off 5b. I thought Asa could do it, but the start seemed a bit too reachy for him.
The next route was Merry Pheasant 6a+. This was right of Profitless. Another good route on this wall. Managed to Onsight it.
I went to Onsight Meshrug a My Shoulders, 6b. This was quite technical on the slab. I messed my foot sequence & didn’t do it. I worked the right sequence and did it next go.

I then led No Farewell 5b on Long Wall section & set up a top rope for Asa. He climbed it really well & did it first try. He was really happy with the climb when he came down. Very impressive.

I had two tie ins on, The Gypsy King’s 6c. This is very technical & bouldery route up a slabby/ overhung arête( Hard to describe it). I managed to do all the moves for the crux sequence by the end of my 2nd session on it at the very end of the day.

Liamhutch89

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#2 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 15, 2022, 10:21:24 am
Deload

T - 6 x max hangs, lattice edge +32kg.

W - 1 hour board session. 30 mins focused on dynamic moves, 30 mins limit moves. 30 mins mobility.

T - core session, 30 min mobility

F - 6 x max hangs, lattice edge +38kg

S - 1 hour board session

S - 1 hour mobility

James Malloch

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#3 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 15, 2022, 10:48:06 am
Sounds like a great week, Simon!

Thanks to everyone for the crag recommendations in last week’s PC. Though In the end we just went bouldering to the Cuttings each evening due to the heat, but I’m really keen to go back to Portland soon. Going to make a plan today on where to go next.


M. Rest day. Chilling on the beach and trying to avoid the sun.

T. Bouldering at the Cuttings. Did the Terminator 7A and Acid House 7A+. The latter was really cool. Spoiled a bit by the side block but climbs nicely despite it being there. Got close on Workshy 7B but couldn’t hold the swing on the big dyno. Pretty tired by that point.

W. Such a hot day. Lots of sun avoidance and some swimming.

T. Tried to go to a Different sector but got there too late for shade. Back to the Cuttings instead late in the evening. Tried Ope in Hell 7B. Basically 2-3 moves and really hard. But went from not being able to pull on, to pulling on, to generating momentum to managing the first move once. Not tried anything hard like that for a while so it was nice to do. Such hot awful conditions though… tried another dynamic 7A on the Jungle Boulder later on. Managed all the moves but was spent by then.

F. Last day and back to cuttings. Did years around the sun 7A+ first try (did the early exit a few days before). Then did The Lizard King 7B which was a really nice line. Finished up with a flash of Dickhead Plumber 7A (more like 6B+?). And the direct version with the same start.

S. Drove back to my friends.

S. Forest Rock. First time here - had a great day. Flashed a warm up, got Sourcier 7A in 3/4 goes and same for Sourceress 7A+. Both really cool styles. Got very close on Cracked Up 7B but didn’t have anything left in my arms by the end. Keen to go back!

A full week of bouldering. Not something I’ve done for ages. Felt pretty strong which was nice and it’s probably done a lot of good trying hard. Though need a few rest days as I’m feeling pretty beat up now - biceps are especially worked. But I don’t feel injured for a change which is often the case after bouldering.

Think I managed 11 7A-B boulders which is quite a lot for me, especially with quite a few flashes in there. Definitely getting stronger despite all the sport climbing!

Hoping to get back to Portland soon and do some of the sport. Though we might head up to Scotland. Too many options!

Duma

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#4 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 15, 2022, 04:10:20 pm
Good week Shark

M - pack, drive to Cornwall (non climbing)
T - lots of swimming and snorkeling.
W - bit of a walk, brief dip.
T - afternoon in the lido, lots of swimming and attempting the inflatable obstacle course
F - more swimming, drive home.
S - am run, 7k, walked most of the last k as so hot. Took it easy in the heat. Much hotter in Bristol than Cornwall. Mild sore throat in eve - test +ve (second time, had it already in January this year) arse.
S - not a great night sleep wise, but feeling ok, stayed mostly in bed to speed recovery.

70.5 kg
2022 plank total 211 min

Nibile

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#5 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 09:12:03 am
Power Club

Mon - bar work, farmer's.
Tue - board climbing.
Wed - pull ups.
Thu - barbell good mornings 100 kg. Static holds 120 kg. Press + overhead carry x4.
Fri - garage session 3. Clean 2 singles at 78 kg.
Sat - weights.
Sun - light weights, very short on time.







mr chaz

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#6 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 09:42:48 am
Power Club:

M. Evening in the shed - did a proper one arm max hangs session (30 mins) using the old CWP method and an 8kg pulley. Not done this properly for a few years. Looking to rebuild some strength in my lock-off and and shoulders/back and this has done wonders for me previously. Finished off blasting myself on a few not-so-hard board problems, but was surprised at how spent I felt!

Rest of the week: Way too frickin hot for that shit.

duncan

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#7 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 09:56:24 am
M - W: Wrist still tweaky so no shoulder or finger work. Walked 10km every day. Squats for flexibility. Breathing exercises.
T: Met up with Hugo and drove to Wales. Unbelievably hot in The Pass, I don’t know what the temperature was but I’ve never experienced anything like it here before. Once it had cooled down a bit we climbed Ten Degrees North on Dinas Mot. Great fun. Met Simon and Karl in Cwm Glas Mawr.
F: Slogged up to Cloggy in the sun. Led Troach. This is great, in the style of harder routes on Cloggy but with bigger holds. Like Shibboleth, an indication the Rock and Ice didn’t have a monopoly on climbing talent in the 1950s. Then did Vember, also great of course. Most of the crag was bone dry but we still had the authentic Drainpipe Crack experience.
S: Battered. Rest day (though I still managed to walk 7km). Belayed Simon on Rimsky Korsakov, see above. Good work! Pottered around Ogwen in the afternoon. Almost felt like joining the wild swimming hordes but didn't of course!
S: Earlier start for Cloggy. Cliff was pleasantly occupied with 12-15 parties. Various grey power teams doing impressive stuff. We started out on Lithrig, another classic, then The Boulder. This has a great main pitch but then lets itself down with another 200’ of choss and grassy scrambling. It’s obviously sacrilegious to bail half way up a Joe Brown classic on Cloggy but the abseil station should have been the clue. Avoiding the Eastern Terrace descent on a busy day is not a bad idea either.
M - Bonus day. Showery and finally cooler so nipped up to The Cromlech and followed Hugo up The Foil. The holds seem to be bigger than they were last summer so perhaps the training is working! Drove back to London.

Great long weekend in North Wales. Excellent climbing and socialising. Wrist is not pain-free but, with lots of strapping, survived a fair amount of climbing. Probably should have tried something harder but was nervous about wrist and Cloggy is not over-endowed with good E3s I’ve haven't done already. November was the obvious choice but we'd already done the drainpipe crack and sustained jamming isn't the ideal for a tweaky wrist.

A week of relative rest but lots of social and family stuff coming up. 


« Last Edit: August 16, 2022, 10:16:05 am by duncan »

Duncan campbell

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#8 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 10:04:53 am
If you find yourself back up there you should definitely do November, Duncan.

It’s really good, felt very similar to the strand in style, and potentially difficulty, you might have just not had quite the same amount of gear placement potential.

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#9 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 10:09:33 am
I absolutely loved The Troach, what a route!

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 10:24:44 am
M - 9km run - attempted to go up Cheyne Hill via Cheyne Wood which i hoped would be shady, but still so may trees down from Arwen, ended up running through dry wheat field, which was pretty grim, but fine run back down.
T- fingerboarding and some weights
W - 10km run Westhill. Roasting hot, car temp said 29. Struggle.
T - packing
F - drive to Kinloch Rannoch. Late decision to get up Scheihallion. Nice path, but boulderfield at the top was grim, and hatching flying ants even grimmer. started at 4, still roasting back at car at 8. Kids did well again. A few folk walking up to see full moon rise.
S - chill morning, easy walk. Into the loch for the afternoon, SUP, kayak, swim. Never been so warm in the water in Scotland, blissful. Managed to get the SUP moving well, esp on flat calm water.
S - another roaster. Did  Meall nan Tarmachan as family Munro 19. Considered Lawers, but too late, too hot and forecast was for weather to deteriorate. Great walk,  especially taking in Meall Garbh, would have been nice to include Beinn nan Eachan but party flagging in the heat. Next time.
M - Drove home in rain. Some weights.

andy popp

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#11 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 11:49:33 am
Great week Shark. Hidden Wall looking splendid in that video. I can still remember "discovering" it back in whatever year it was in the 80s  (not just me and obviously not a discovery at all, but it was untouched at the time), watching it come into view as we approached and the excitement of realizing it had nothing on it.

And great to read a report from Cloggy Duncan - can't remember the last time we saw that in Power Club - and a fine quartet of routes. Troach was my first route on the crag and it made a fine impression.

I had to go to the UK for a few days last week and only managed the cycle/swim routine four times. I'm really only keeping this up (posting) because doing so might force me to find replacement activities as swimming gets phased out. 

shark

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#12 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 04:11:14 pm
Great week Shark. Hidden Wall looking splendid in that video. I can still remember "discovering" it back in whatever year it was in the 80s  (not just me and obviously not a discovery at all, but it was untouched at the time), watching it come into view as we approached and the excitement of realizing it had nothing on it.

It’s well named. Did you bag any of the first ascents?

andy popp

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#13 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 16, 2022, 04:32:53 pm
El Guide Direct and seconded Wagner's Ring, belayed Rimsky. Other FAs all over that hillside.

Duncan Disorderly

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#14 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 17, 2022, 05:24:14 pm
Great reports there guys - proper psych inducing stuff  :clap2:

M: Surfing @ Gwynver - Small but good fun, caught a fair few. Drove back to Sheff.
T: Rest
W: 20+ miles on the bike - was super hot but a fair breeze made it pretty nice cycling weather tbh.
T: Pop up training, flexibility and planks - Decided need to do this weekly.
F: AW with daughter... Bouldered V5ish and some autobelays up to F6c.
S-S: Nowt - too bloody hot!

Meh... Must try harder!

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#15 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 19, 2022, 02:07:56 pm
Right first entry for me here so a bit overawed by you lot.

Mon 30min stretch session, 10mjn fingerboard then session at LSD in Leeds mostly sending stuff jn the v5/v6 arena

Tues walk with toddler, mini bouldering for him. 30min stretch sesh

Weds gym, core and pull workout via ELIOS training

Thursday Knipe Scar, first 6c sport lead though not clean nipped up tr clean and looking forward to getting back

Friday 90min loaded stretch and mobility session via ELIOS

Sat trad at Wharncliffe first trad for years so just a load of easy stuff in the heat. Cooked fresh pizza for 20 odd people ...?

Sun sport at Horsethief crap sesh but got out with hangover and did something.

Duma

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#16 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 19, 2022, 03:11:39 pm
Welcome to PC Polnedrane!

What's ELIOS?
If you're climbing V5/6 (that's font 7A in real money, we're East of the Atlantic you know ;-) ) then surely 6c sport should be a warm up? Or are you new to leading?

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#17 Re: Power Club 657 8-14 Aug 2022
August 19, 2022, 10:02:10 pm
Welcome to PC Polnedrane!

What's ELIOS?
If you're climbing V5/6 (that's font 7A in real money, we're East of the Atlantic you know ;-) ) then surely 6c sport should be a warm up? Or are you new to leading?

I max out at around V5/6 during my visits to LSD and I've climbed routes a fair bit harder than 6c (and can boulder outdoors a bit harder than that, if suitably enthused) - I suspect there is untapped potential there (unless he's a specialist in blob hugging, and running and jumping parkour!).

 

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