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Do we have to document everything?? (Read 22550 times)

Carliios

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#175 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 05:16:53 pm
I will point out that Singing in the Wind isn't actually an easier sequence, I sandbagged that one quite a lot on purpose.

Why? You seem to be get pretty upset that people have a different opinion of your problems to you but you admit to mis-grading and mis-attributing stars.
Regarding what constitutes a classic, there are no rules other than ‘it is not dictated by the first ascensionist’.

I tend to lower grades of all my climbs by 1-2 grades as usually it’s off by that much, to me it feels like sandbagging but usually that’s where the grading ends up anyways and since when is having a discussion “getting upset” - I got annoyed with people using the voting bug to bin vote my shit 400 times haha

andy moles

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#176 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 05:41:39 pm
I have not and will not be voting on any of these problems that I haven't climbed, but I'm finding the already amusing excess of the 400 Bin Votes is being amplified by the number of times it keeps being mentioned  :lol:

webbo

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#177 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 06:05:36 pm
When I started bouldering which would be around 1973, problems were all about the difficulty and considered rights of passage. No body considered quality, it was more about people would deem you worth talking to if you had done certain problems. :dance1:
This was mainly an Almscliff experience but other Yorkshire crags counted abit.

steveri

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#178 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 06:15:53 pm
What’s the rational for awarding stars ?
3* = "tried really hard on this and happy to get up it"?

Ross Barker

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#179 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 06:19:24 pm
I have not and will not be voting on any of these problems that I haven't climbed, but I'm finding the already amusing excess of the 400 Bin Votes is being amplified by the number of times it keeps being mentioned  :lol:

One of the many rules of the internet: if you mention something you don't like, people will go out of their way to do it more for a bit of a laugh.

chrisbrooke

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#180 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 06:31:52 pm
The Streisand effect.

Will Hunt

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#181 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 06:53:27 pm
I have not and will not be voting on any of these problems that I haven't climbed, but I'm finding the already amusing excess of the 400 Bin Votes is being amplified by the number of times it keeps being mentioned  :lol:

One of the many rules of the internet: if you mention something you don't like, people will go out of their way to do it more for a bit of a laugh.

Given how often it's been mentioned I'm amazed we're not passed the 1k milestone.

SA Chris

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#182 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 07:21:58 pm
Right succint yet incredibly vague

What, are you saying quality and grade are vague and subjective? Get out.

36chambers

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#183 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 07:56:53 pm
When I started bouldering which would be around 1973, problems were all about the difficulty and considered rights of passage. No body considered quality, it was more about people would deem you worth talking to if you had done certain problems. :dance1:
This was mainly an Almscliff experience but other Yorkshire crags counted abit.

I'm pretty sure Tim Palmer only really started talking to me after he saw me do Dialectics on DWR.

Bradders

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#184 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 09:08:35 pm
Still one of my favourite climbing videos


webbo

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#185 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 09:24:04 pm
Just watching that and seeing that bloke in the flo jacket reminded me of my first climbing experience in 1964 aged 9 doing that chimney on my special birthday outing to Almscliff.
If I only had known how it ended I would asked to go to Bridlington.

dropkneesnotbombs

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#186 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 10:58:13 pm
But I would vote 400 bins

And I would vote 400 more

moose

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#187 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 11:04:58 pm
When I started bouldering which would be around 1973, problems were all about the difficulty and considered rights of passage. No body considered quality, it was more about people would deem you worth talking to if you had done certain problems. :dance1:
This was mainly an Almscliff experience but other Yorkshire crags counted abit.

I'm pretty sure Tim Palmer only really started talking to me after he saw me do Dialectics on DWR.

I chose the easier option of bonding over conversations about tumours and pathology and the quality of the pork pies at the Spa in the garage shop in Threshfield, on the way to Kilnsey.

dunnyg

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#188 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 18, 2022, 11:57:29 pm
Best bit about climbing in upper Wharfedale

scragrock

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#189 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 19, 2022, 08:35:45 am
Browsing Latest pics on UKC early this morning{ i have tiny children :coffee: } i noticed a slab someone posted up from the wilds of Sanna on the far flung peninsula of Ardnamurchan, i dug a little deeper to find a climber had claimed a line as a trad route i climbed as a highball over 10 yrs ago on the same piece of rock.
i was initially disappointed not because someone had stolen my F.A but that i had mistakenly thought everyone knew the rules{ as stated in the Boulder Scotland guidebook } that the "Ring Cycle" of the caldera was a NON documented area where you took away the experience of the place above the need to top,tick,grade and move on.
I quickly realised i may have been guilty of this too if i had missed an important implied Rule or stated regulation, so no hard feeling to the folks who inadvertently stumble into this trap.
I do feel that there is definitely a place for documenting but i also love the idea of wild undocumented land where we can escape to climb, sit, reflect, swim in the ocean without the pressure of the send. Unfortunately i can find no easy suggestion to enforce that ideal. 

As for grading...
When asked by friends who come North to visit for a climbing tour i tailor that experience for that person or group, as in - "Oh Nate loves crimps so he will love that line" or " I love that 3* thug fest but Susi would hate it for that very reason" or " The young team would love Queen's wave as its a board climbers wet dream and they are all about that" etc.

My idea of a 3 star problem and the next climbers is wildly different for a myriad of reasons, only consensus over time can help, but not always. 
 

andy moles

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#190 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 19, 2022, 09:08:20 am
the rules{ as stated in the Boulder Scotland guidebook }  that the "Ring Cycle" of the caldera was a NON documented area where you took away the experience of the place above the need to top,tick,grade and move on

While I'm sympathetic to the sentiment, and it's nice to think of some fringe places being left undocumented, I doubt the provenance and authority of such a 'rule', which I suspect is nothing more than the guidebook author's (or a very small cadre of people's) whim. I mean, you could claim anywhere should be a non-documented area, it's funny how being printed in one man's book gives an opinion more sway than if it was, say, a post on this forum.

To be fair, in my copy of Bouldering in Scotland it isn't made to sound like a 'rule', it rather gives the impression that no one has bothered to write it up (which is understandable given how dispersed the bouldering there must be).

Like you say, it's hard to imagine how to enforce such an ideal (if enforcing is what you really want to do?), because it only takes one person to break from it and the genie's out.

SA Chris

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#191 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 19, 2022, 09:16:21 am
You would need to carefully and widely document why to not document it.

OT, but I still need to get there for some climbing, only ever sea kayaked around there and it rained, so no climbing.

scragrock

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#192 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 19, 2022, 10:05:26 am
the rules{ as stated in the Boulder Scotland guidebook }  that the "Ring Cycle" of the caldera was a NON documented area where you took away the experience of the place above the need to top,tick,grade and move on

While I'm sympathetic to the sentiment, and it's nice to think of some fringe places being left undocumented, I doubt the provenance and authority of such a 'rule', which I suspect is nothing more than the guidebook author's (or a very small cadre of people's) whim. I mean, you could claim anywhere should be a non-documented area, it's funny how being printed in one man's book gives an opinion more sway than if it was, say, a post on this forum.

To be fair, in my copy of Bouldering in Scotland it isn't made to sound like a 'rule', it rather gives the impression that no one has bothered to write it up (which is understandable given how dispersed the bouldering there must be).

Like you say, it's hard to imagine how to enforce such an ideal (if enforcing is what you really want to do?), because it only takes one person to break from it and the genie's out.

Maybe a lot more thought goes into what is put down in a book than on a forum?

Fair point, its more implied but i think i took it as Law :shrug:

scragrock

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#193 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 19, 2022, 10:09:55 am
You would need to carefully and widely document why to not document it.

OT, but I still need to get there for some climbing, only ever sea kayaked around there and it rained, so no climbing.

Yeah, it's a logistical nightmare plus it's a minority view.

Paddled, snorkelled and climbed around this area for years, fabulous on a sunny day and truly wild on a stormy one.

SA Chris

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#194 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 19, 2022, 10:30:44 am
Long old haul from here. Was truly wild getting back across Loch Sunart in a storm on the kayaks, especially after a drunken wild camp on Carna.

Will Hunt

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#195 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 19, 2022, 09:42:48 pm
In anticipation of the film that will no doubt follow this thread, I have taken the liberty of mocking up a poster.


Carliios

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#196 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 19, 2022, 10:11:52 pm
In anticipation of the film that will no doubt follow this thread, I have taken the liberty of mocking up a poster.



Actually brilliant  :lol:

steveri

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#197 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 30, 2022, 02:58:30 pm
I was reminded of this thread seeing 3 new eliminates going up at Manley Knoll:
1. Traverse half of an existing problem but footless
2. Some traverse done facing out
3. Same traverse facing out, then in, then out again - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/manley_knoll-18277/mans_traverse-667629

Thinking I might add another, as for 3 above but shaking it all about.


SA Chris

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#198 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 30, 2022, 02:59:35 pm
Surely you need to do it using only your left leg, then only your right?

mr chaz

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#199 Re: Do we have to document everything??
August 30, 2022, 04:48:33 pm
Woah hold on, these could be worthwhile. The spinny one has 2 stars, FFS.

 

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