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Munich Euro Champs 2022 - Sport Climbing - How to Watch on Beeb (Read 7008 times)

Wil

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Top 8 based on ranking scores from the weekend.


[Edit] A bit small to read:

Women:
Garnbret, Meul, Pilz, Adamovska, Caulier, Moroni, Krampl, Kazbekova

Men:
Ondra, Gines Lopez, Potocar, Uznik, Schubert, Schenk, Avezou, Schalk
[/Edit]

Duma

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Thanks Wil.

Interesting, so if qualification for the combined is just based on sum of ranking points, how is the event itself going to be scored? Multiplication as inTokyo? Addition as in qualification? Or is the weird scoring system they were using in the boulder rounds going to come into it somehow?

Duma

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Also, and OT, but can we have a separate comps board please? Having all the threads (except this one) hidden 2 layers down under

places to visit > indoor walls > competitions

Might have made sense in 2003 or whenever the forum structure was set up, but feels ridiculous now.

mattbirddog

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Thanks Wil.

Interesting, so if qualification for the combined is just based on sum of ranking points, how is the event itself going to be scored? Multiplication as inTokyo? Addition as in qualification? Or is the weird scoring system they were using in the boulder rounds going to come into it somehow?

It is additional... so maximum of 100 points available in boulder (25 per boulder) and 100 points in Lead so the perfect score is 200 points in a combined round.

New things to remember in combined:

2 zones on offer - 3 points for zone 1 and 6 points for zone 2. 25 points for the top - minus 0.1 per additional goes. So 25 for a flash, 24.9 second go etc.

Lead - 100 points divided by number of holds so... say there are 50 holds it is 2 points per hold as you go.

Thoughts:

Having watched the new scoring in the individual events, you can see all the fun/suspense of the event being over by boulder. If Janja or Ondra is one boulder up on the others - it would be quite something to see them make a 25 point gap. If the competitor comes out last knowing the score then you could have quite an anticlimatic ending where they pull on for a bit then pop off and celebrate but here is hoping it doesnt. On the flip side, i can see it being very dramatic if you have a cricket style point chase at the end but not sure this field will lead for that to happen.

SA Chris

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Is this the first event where they've used this new scoring system, or just the first I've watched?

Wil

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Lead - 100 points divided by number of holds so... say there are 50 holds it is 2 points per hold as you go.

The lead isn't scored like this. The last 15 moves are worth 5 points each, the 10 before that are 2 points each, then 1 point each next 5, and nothing before that. So that extra top in bouldering is only 3 - 5 moves higher up the lead route, depending on Zones and attempts.

mattbirddog

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Sorry - I didn't read Annex 1 in the rules!  :(

This format has been tried once before in Spain for a test event with the Spanish federation but wasn't streamed anywhere.

Bradders

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Thought all the lead rounds were excellent, impressive wall and setting gave some great looking moves without it feeling too gimmicky.

Women's boulder finals good too

Spoilers:
NSFW  :
after W1, when everyone else got further, I thought we might even have an upset! Obvs she  then casually outclassed everyone on the other problems.
Thought Gibert was a bit unlucky to finish 6th after being the only one apart from JG to get the bonus on W2, and finding a great sequence on W4, but you can't afford to miss the "easy" problem, and messing up the start position on W4 twice is pretty slack.
Didn't affect the medals, but my favourite moment was Chloe beating the buzzer on W3, esp after that horrible fall.

When was the last time JG didn't top a finals boulder?!

The big shame with the setting for the men's is that the male field is, I think, far more competitive. I looked at the semi finals line up for both the men's lead and boulder and thought any one of them could make finals, whereas about half the women's field didn't look anywhere near. Shame therefore that the men's boulders didn't quite work out.

Duma

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Thanks both. So as I understand it attempts make no difference for bonuses? (That's how it was showing on screen at the weekend) Could be controversial if there's a hard set of problems? (8 bonuses beats a slow top)

Wil

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Thanks both. So as I understand it attempts make no difference for bonuses? (That's how it was showing on screen at the weekend) Could be controversial if there's a hard set of problems? (8 bonuses beats a slow top)

I'm not quite sure what you mean with "8 bonuses beats a slow top". For the boulder round you score either 3, 6 or 25, minus 0.1 for every unsuccessful attempt, so the 0.1 really just acts as a tie breaker.

A hard set of boulders certainly unbalances it, or even just one impossible problem. My rough and ready analysis from previous comps (obviously designed under different rules, limited data etc) is that lead scores will, on average, be higher than boulder.

Duma

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Climber 1 gets to the second bonus on every problem but no tops : 8x3=24

Climber 2 tops one problem in 11 attempts, but gets no other bonuses : 25-(11x0.1)=23.9

Climber 1 wins, despite no tops.

There's other variations, admittedly all unlikely, but possible.

SA Chris

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second bonus on every problem is surely a better performance than topping 1 plus no other bonuses?

Duma

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More likely to have an impact is not taking account of attempts to bonuses. Seems very strange to me, why not simply make the deductions from the total score for that boulder?? It's so obviously wrong I feel like it must have been a fuck up in the on screen scoring of the individual event

Duma

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second bonus on every problem is surely a better performance than topping 1 plus no other bonuses?

Absolutely not.

Wil

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From the rules:
Quote
The score awarded to a competitor will be the relevant Base Score decremented by 0.1 for
each attempt made prior to that on which the relevant scoring hold was Controlled.

Which implies that you lose 0.1 for every unsuccessful attempt prior to your highpoint, so it would count for zones too. This wasn't happening for the live scores shown last weekend.

Example scores from the IFSC:
Quote
A1 z1 Z1 T1 25.0
A1 z1 Z1 T0 6.0
A1 z1 Z0 T0 3.0
A4 z1 Z1 T4 24.7
A2 z1 Z2 T0 5.9
A2 z1 Z0 T0 3.0
A4 z0 Z0 T4 24.7
A4 z1 Z2 T0 5.9
A2 z2 Z0 T0 2.9
A4 z2 Z2 T0 5.9


Duma

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From the rules:
Quote
The score awarded to a competitor will be the relevant Base Score decremented by 0.1 for
each attempt made prior to that on which the relevant scoring hold was Controlled.

Which implies that you lose 0.1 for every unsuccessful attempt prior to your highpoint, so it would count for zones too. This wasn't happening for the live scores shown last weekend.

Example scores from the IFSC:
Quote
A1 z1 Z1 T1 25.0
A1 z1 Z1 T0 6.0
A1 z1 Z0 T0 3.0
A4 z1 Z1 T4 24.7
A2 z1 Z2 T0 5.9
A2 z1 Z0 T0 3.0
A4 z0 Z0 T4 24.7
A4 z1 Z2 T0 5.9
A2 z2 Z0 T0 2.9
A4 z2 Z2 T0 5.9
Thanks Wil! That makes sense, just the in screen scoring wrong then. Hopefully that's sorted out for today!

This also makes my example above much less likely, as climber 1 would need to flash to all the bonuses.

sherlock

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For those who haven't watched yet, Women's Combined Boulder livestream had technical issues but it does eventually improve around half way through.

Duma

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The last 15 moves are worth 5 points each, the 10 before that are 2 points each, then 1 point each next 5, and nothing before that. So that extra top in bouldering is only 3 - 5 moves higher up the lead route, depending on Zones and attempts.

Just said on the telly 10 pts for a top? 13 holds before worth 5, then as you said

Duma

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Although someone just scored 90 and only got to two holds before the top, so who knows...

Bradders

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Is the combined final on iPlayer somewhere? I can't find it.

webbo

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It was on the BBC 2 feed I think it’s about 45 minutes in. After the diving.

Duma

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I watched on iPlayer this afternoon, assume it's still available somewhere

Duma

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So I've now realised attempts only matter in case of ties, as even one move on the lead wall is almost certainly worth more than any difference in attempts. Not sure I agree with this. A climber flashing several problems and falling one move lower on the lead should beat another who took multiple attempts to do those boulders IMO.

Wil

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A climber flashing several problems and falling one move lower on the lead should beat another who took multiple attempts to do those boulders IMO.

I think the -0.1 for attempts and +0.1 for a + in lead certainly needs to be looked at e.g. a + higher on the lead route could be worth more, or attempts could be scored with increasing consequence. As you say it is purely a tie breaker at the moment.

mattbirddog

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ah man that final for the men's was so cool! Big up to the setters...delivered the whole way through in this round.

 

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