Thanks Wil.Interesting, so if qualification for the combined is just based on sum of ranking points, how is the event itself going to be scored? Multiplication as inTokyo? Addition as in qualification? Or is the weird scoring system they were using in the boulder rounds going to come into it somehow?
Lead - 100 points divided by number of holds so... say there are 50 holds it is 2 points per hold as you go.
Thought all the lead rounds were excellent, impressive wall and setting gave some great looking moves without it feeling too gimmicky.Women's boulder finals good tooSpoilers:NSFW : after W1, when everyone else got further, I thought we might even have an upset! Obvs she then casually outclassed everyone on the other problems.Thought Gibert was a bit unlucky to finish 6th after being the only one apart from JG to get the bonus on W2, and finding a great sequence on W4, but you can't afford to miss the "easy" problem, and messing up the start position on W4 twice is pretty slack.Didn't affect the medals, but my favourite moment was Chloe beating the buzzer on W3, esp after that horrible fall.
Thanks both. So as I understand it attempts make no difference for bonuses? (That's how it was showing on screen at the weekend) Could be controversial if there's a hard set of problems? (8 bonuses beats a slow top)
second bonus on every problem is surely a better performance than topping 1 plus no other bonuses?
The score awarded to a competitor will be the relevant Base Score decremented by 0.1 foreach attempt made prior to that on which the relevant scoring hold was Controlled.
A1 z1 Z1 T1 25.0 A1 z1 Z1 T0 6.0 A1 z1 Z0 T0 3.0A4 z1 Z1 T4 24.7 A2 z1 Z2 T0 5.9 A2 z1 Z0 T0 3.0A4 z0 Z0 T4 24.7 A4 z1 Z2 T0 5.9 A2 z2 Z0 T0 2.9A4 z2 Z2 T0 5.9
From the rules:QuoteThe score awarded to a competitor will be the relevant Base Score decremented by 0.1 foreach attempt made prior to that on which the relevant scoring hold was Controlled.Which implies that you lose 0.1 for every unsuccessful attempt prior to your highpoint, so it would count for zones too. This wasn't happening for the live scores shown last weekend.Example scores from the IFSC:QuoteA1 z1 Z1 T1 25.0 A1 z1 Z1 T0 6.0 A1 z1 Z0 T0 3.0A4 z1 Z1 T4 24.7 A2 z1 Z2 T0 5.9 A2 z1 Z0 T0 3.0A4 z0 Z0 T4 24.7 A4 z1 Z2 T0 5.9 A2 z2 Z0 T0 2.9A4 z2 Z2 T0 5.9
The last 15 moves are worth 5 points each, the 10 before that are 2 points each, then 1 point each next 5, and nothing before that. So that extra top in bouldering is only 3 - 5 moves higher up the lead route, depending on Zones and attempts.
A climber flashing several problems and falling one move lower on the lead should beat another who took multiple attempts to do those boulders IMO.