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Climbing around evían - france (Read 1379 times)

haydn jones

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Climbing around evían - france
August 09, 2022, 10:10:32 pm
Calling on the ukb massif for location info for any shady sport or bouldering around here (within 1.5 hour drive)

Wood FT

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#1 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 09, 2022, 10:21:23 pm
Not sure but the water quality must be fantastic

haydn jones

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#2 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 09, 2022, 10:45:34 pm
Vionnaz I just found on ukc is only 17km away. Anyone got a rough guide for it?

jwi

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#3 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 09, 2022, 10:50:06 pm
Evian-les-Baines? Or somewhere else?

Isn’t there a lot of stuff around Aix-les-Baines? Otherwise there’s a lot of good multi pitch climbing around Annecy. Cf the books by Mussato

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 09, 2022, 10:50:52 pm
You can download the guide to the Haut Chablais region here;                                                                    http://www.chablais-grimpe.com/accueil/accueil_download.php?f=0

It's in French, but even if you don't speak much you should be able to figure out most of it with google translate.

A lot of it is easier multi pitch, but there are some harder sport crags too. No bouldering of any significance that i know of, but i think there is an erratic in a field somewhere that gets climbed on when not covered in graffiti.

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 09, 2022, 10:54:14 pm
Evian-les-Baines? Or somewhere else?

Isn’t there a lot of stuff around Aix-les-Baines

Evian-les Baines is not really near Aix-les-Baines?

jwi

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#6 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 10, 2022, 09:47:22 am
I know nothing about the Alps; it is the Pyrenees for the rich. But on a map it looks like there is less than 1.5 hours between the two?

SA Chris

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#7 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 10, 2022, 10:06:31 am
LOL.

Lots of climbing a lot closer!

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 10, 2022, 11:42:29 am
within an hour you could be downgrading Fred Rouhling routes with the best of them

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/france/chapelle-des-eveaux

haydn jones

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#9 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 10, 2022, 12:40:59 pm
You can download the guide to the Haut Chablais region here;                                                                    http://www.chablais-grimpe.com/accueil/accueil_download.php?f=0

It's in French, but even if you don't speak much you should be able to figure out most of it with google translate.

A lot of it is easier multi pitch, but there are some harder sport crags too. No bouldering of any significance that i know of, but i think there is an erratic in a field somewhere that gets climbed on when not covered in graffiti.

Cheers for the link. Downloaded it. Looks like.multi pitch sport in the sun mostly which I'll avoid but will have a closer look later.

Will have to check out the local book shop for a copy of the guide

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 10, 2022, 01:27:26 pm
I was browsing though it, there is some harder single pitch stuff too, don't know about shade.

What are you doing in Evian? there are some great swimming spots along that part of the lake, remember one with an excellent diving board.

haydn jones

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#11 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 10, 2022, 01:57:57 pm
I'll mostly be swimming and checking out some of the big walks/via feratas but if there's some shady single pitch stuff I'll definitely check it out. I'm actually staying in thollon-les-memises.

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 11, 2022, 07:19:41 pm
shame you're a month late for some smooth jazz. Great.

https://www.montreuxjazzfestival.com/en/

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#13 Re: Climbing around evían - france
August 11, 2022, 09:46:59 pm
I'll mostly be swimming and checking out some of the big walks/via feratas but if there's some shady single pitch stuff I'll definitely check it out. I'm actually staying in thollon-les-memises.

Looks like you're around an hour to the Morzine area - I've visited there a few times for biking/mountain bike but also done a bit of climbing.  In thread a few years ago I detailed a couple of crags which are decent for morning shade if you're willing to start early:

Climbing at Foron is great, steep (/very steep) and mainly on pockets - the 6c's are steep and the classic 7a overhangs about 5m in 18m, plenty of stuff up to low 8s.  Also bit runout in places, though safe given the clean fallout zone. In the shade until 2pm ish and often gets a breeze, bring a duvet if temps in Morzine are below 25.  Only downside (other than steepness factor, not my best style and definitely a new experience for Amy!) is that the crag base is not great, steep scree mixed with small ledges for the main sectors so not the most comfortable place to belay/hang out.   

Other place we climbed was Le Cruz, about 40 mins from Morzine back down past Taninges.  Smallish crag in terms of number of routes (about 40), but we really enjoyed it, though it is a little dusty in places even though main routes were all chalked.  2 main sectors, rh one in shade until 12:30 has routes up to about 20m between 6a to 7b, classic 7a up the middle is great, techy slopey start followed by steep finish. Lh sector is an impressive wall in shade until 2ish with routes between 25m to 30m, 7a to 8a+, mainly face climbing on gently overhanging smooth rock on mix of edges,  slopers and the odd pocket.  Great (hard) 7a on rhs with techy face to physical overhanging corner/crack, 7b to its left is excellent wall climbing with fingery crux early on and sharing the same final steep final moves (also has a 7b+ extension).   Didn't get on the harder routes but look good, particularly an excellent looking 7c in the middle.   Nice crag environment in the trees and the walk in (15 mins) takes you past a lovely picnic spot by the river.

 

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