UKBouldering.com

Power Club 656 1-7 Aug 2022 (Read 3063 times)

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#25 Re: Power Club 656 1-7 Aug 2022
August 11, 2022, 01:41:44 am
T: Lincoln Lake after work. Warmed up and worked Tangerine Man V8. Very long - 22 moves in total. Fell at the end twice before sending it in classic sloppy style


W: 65 press-ups

T: Guanella Pass. Dark Horse boulder. Sent High Horse V5 and worked Dark Horse for a bit. Humid


S: Lincoln Lake. Not a great sesh but a good tour for the lads. Pulled on Rebellion, Bull Run, Kryptonite, Red Herring…

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1687
  • Karma: +62/-1
#26 Re: Power Club 656 1-7 Aug 2022
August 11, 2022, 10:59:40 am
Thanks for all the Portland recommendations! I’ve plenty of routes I want to try based on the crag recommendations, but since then it’s been so hot we’ve mainly been swimming and going to the Cuttings Bouldering in the evening. Hopefully it cools down in the next few days - failing that I think I’ll be back here next week when the forecast is for a temperature drop…

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1687
  • Karma: +62/-1
#27 Re: Power Club 656 1-7 Aug 2022
August 11, 2022, 11:03:54 am
James, just remembered you asked a while back about tunnel wall. It's great! Despite being only 1.5 hours away I'd overlooked the fact it's such a reliable summer crag.

You should come up some time in September!


Cheers! We were planning to go up to the Scotland for the summer and have a few days there (it’s all a bit hard for Zora).

I think we will end up in the south for a bit longer, maybe go up to the lakes for a week and then Scotland in September (though need to make a proper plan). I’ll drop you a message when we know when we will be there.

Have a great trip to Canada!

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1687
  • Karma: +62/-1
#28 Re: Power Club 656 1-7 Aug 2022
August 11, 2022, 11:08:44 am
I think I’m destined to never make it to the knee bar on Bens, despite being as strong as I’ve been - that move baffles me!

Most people use a high right toe scum to get the pocket and swing around into the kneebar but I find a low toe hook for your right foot on a small positive sticking out white flake and left foot in the small pocket then pull your hips up so weight is on left foot and cross right foot onto the large edge makes it all static getting the kneebar in. Also worth experimenting with how you hold the pinch too. Front 3 seems to work well on the incut on the right side of it though I just use it as a fat pinch with thumb in a tunnel on the underside now. Be easier to show you in person.

Good  :fishing: James!

Bait taken 😉

Cheers, Simon! Next time I’m around I’ll try to give it a go or see if you’re free for a session.

I did the move once (years ago) with the high toe beta but haven’t come close since. Roofs are my anti-style!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal