UKBouldering.com

Ilkley area bouldering recommendations (Read 4040 times)

bolehillbilly

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 276
  • Karma: +31/-0
Ilkley area bouldering recommendations
August 07, 2022, 11:34:46 am
There's a chance I'll be on the bike support team on Mon/Tues and have a couple of hours to kill near Ilkley. Can anyone help with suggestions for a bouldering venue with the following list of essentials
Short drive from Ilkley
Shortish walk in, 10-15 mins
North facing aspect
Phone signal
Good circuit of 5s and 6s
A classic 7A/+ (soft touch holiday tick would be ideal)
Easy to navigate around, I haven't got a guide.
Decent landings, not too highball.
Have had a look at Swastika Stones which might fit the bill but any other suggestions welcome.




teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2796
  • Karma: +178/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
I’d be tempted to stay in the main area and do the circuit of 5’s and 6’s in the back quarries and Lost Boots then have Olicana Arête as your 7

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1541
  • Karma: +91/-7
A couple of other options.

Caley roadside. 15ish from Ilkley, walk in is short. May be a pain to navigate around without a guide though, might be stuff on 27 crags or whatever that grim site is called.

West chevin boulders (15 min drive, about 5min walk in) on unknown stones, which might be worth a look to see if it gets your juices going.

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2885
  • Karma: +138/-3
I’d be tempted to stay in the main area and do the circuit of 5’s and 6’s in the back quarries and Lost Boots then have Olicana Arête as your 7

Yep, this.

Caley isn't great in Summer. Gets very overgrown.

West Chevin is a good shout.

Swastika Stones is lovely and will involve less ogling from tourists, only downside being the steep uphill walk to reach it. Pogo Arete is a classic 7B and there are some brilliant 5s and 6s like Swastika Eyes and the arete to its left.

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
I'd probably lean towards Caley Roadside. There's plenty of boulders within seconds of each other and the road with various aspects. I recently went with the kids and its not that bad navigating the more well travelled boulders.

You could easily find and have a session on the classic New Jerusalem (very soft 7A unless its been officially downgraded now), the one to the left of it which is down as 7C on ukc but actually 7A+ and quite good, Forked Lightning Crack (6B), various lower 6's in the nearby area.

Edit: actually scratch that, just go to Almscliff!

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8177
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
Just putting out there that I think sub-7 bouldering at Ilkley is crap. And Olicana Arete is nails. I'd go to Caley or Almscliff.

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1731
  • Karma: +65/-1
Shipley Glen or Baildon? (Though unsure on the aspect…)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13695
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
Nuclear death heat suntraps at both.

bolehillbilly

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 276
  • Karma: +31/-0
Thanks all for the advice. I'll do a bit of research this morning but thinking Caley might be a good option to explore.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9996
  • Karma: +579/-10
Snowden might be a good bet. Ticks all your criteria I think. Has some nice high 6 low 7s with good landings.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2796
  • Karma: +178/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
Snowden might be a good bet. Ticks all your criteria I think. Has some nice high 6 low 7s with good landings.

Still currently covered in axle grease as far as I know

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3469
  • Karma: +530/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
Still currently covered in axle grease as far as I know

If anyone’s qualified to sort this out it’s BHB  ;)

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal