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Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022 (Read 2740 times)

shark

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Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 10, 2022, 08:33:28 pm
11.5-7 average 160.5 up 0.3lbs

M. Home FB. Tor. 13.5 degrees and breezy. Did throw to falling off cross through then start to falling off throw. Huge effort required on both links. Tried cross thru to end as would have been good to do whole thing in 3 sections but too tired to even do cross thru in isolation and not up for X and Rubicon after.

T Eve Broke a tooth in half on a pomegranate seed

W Lunch Dentist. Half of tooth extracted. Remaining half bolstered. PM/Eve Delayed meet up with Ben S at Moat. Joined by Nige H. Not been for an age. Approached the old way which is now reflooded. Tried wading but mud surprisingly deep. Backtracked and approached the right way. Ben pointed me at a 6c ‘warm up’. Repeatedly fell off using his whack beta. Found a better way but didn’t redpoint. Went on Excalibur 7b+. Really good. Could’ve, would’ve, should’ve redpointed it but didn’t. Sussed out a static way on the last failed redpoint for the throw move that was causing me problems.

T

F AM Home FB warm up then Long Wall with Keith joined later by 8bMark. Warm with intermittent breeze. No decent warm ups so jumped on the highly rated Meterol 7b+. Holy shit - it’s desperate. Couldn’t see how to do the crux and it’s tricky getting into the crux and doesn’t let up for several moves after. Nearly stripped it after second go up and still flailing. Encouraged to keep at it. Unlocked the crux third go up but like on weds latching something I’m throwing for is still a weakness despite improvements in contact strength from recruitment pulls -feels like some mental block. Linked from end of crux to top at the end.

S

S AM Home warmup. Realised I wasn’t recovered enough

Gutted not to get to High Tor for a rematch with Supersonic (Simon bailed on me and no one I know remotely interested) Could do with finding some more trad partners who are available midweek.

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#1 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 10, 2022, 09:45:19 pm
Cheers Shark.
8bMark, what a great way to be known  :bow:

Rehab finger & knees continues.
Monday -

Low Pain Hang Stage 1
• Open Hand: 2x per week, 1 set of 4 reps, 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off, 3-minute rest between sets
• Half Crimp: 2x per week, 1 set of 4 reps, 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off, 3-minute rest between sets
• 3 Finger Pocket: 2x per week, 1 set of 4 reps, 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off, 3-minute rest between sets
Did these using the lattice edge in farmer lifts. I’ve not tried a proper hanger from a board yet.
Did a extended warm up. Squeeze ball, 3x 10 forearm extension & flexion curls with 7.5kg
No pain repeaters. 3×7 open hand. 3×7 half crimp.
Then did low pain hang stage 1 with 10kg. Then repeated it with 15kg. Mild pain in half crimp & 3finger grip.
For the right hand- good hand. I did low pain hang stage 1 with 15kg for warm up. Then did 5x10s isometric pulls on the lattice edge.
No pain after the session.

Tuesday
6 weeks post op today.
45min peloton ride

Wednesday -
Rest day

Thursday -
45 min peloton ride & knee rehab work. Low pain repeaters session

Friday -
45 min peloton ride

Saturday -
Met up with Gareth & Farad at Hidden Quarry at 2pm. It was really hot day. I noted the lines on the slab to the left of the main wall were published on UKC. One of them is a 6a and the start looked easy, ideal for getting back on the rope.
The slab was in the shade & it was much cooler than the main wall. I went up Alone With The Caretaker, 6a. This was a surprisingly nice technical climb. Happy with the Onsight.

Gareth went up, Quad-bike Terror Nightride, 6b. The rock looked & was poor down low but he managed to Onsight it. Farad followed on a top rope, I then Flashed it. I thought it was hard 6a.

I then went for an Onsight of the 6b+ to the right. Big Knife Cider Show-Off, 6b+. Got stumped at the top on the Onsight. Did it next go on a topper. Bouldery down low & technical for the finish. Good rests along the way. Should of led it…….. I think this is hard 6b. Better than the route to the left.
It was nearly 6pm so I headed home. A great afternoon session, both finger & knee went well.

Sunday.
The youngest participated in Selection Day at the Works.  What a brilliant concept & well run event.
Came home, it was Roasting hot Laid in the sun & did a 45min peloton ride in the evening

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#2 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 10, 2022, 09:47:00 pm
First power club!

M - Day out at Anston. Spent most of the session pointing out a pocket on a blind move for Carlos on Bullet. He fell off right at the end unforunately. I managed to bag a lesser known 7C called Chucklevision inbetween my pointing duties. Enjoying the process of learning how to climb better on limestone. Also had a go on Soul Crusher and did it from a move in.

Caught the bus to the Depot after this for a bit of training and conditioning! Density hangs, one armers and weight conditioning which I am very shit at.

T - New hardish set at the Depot. Treated it like a competitoon and tried to flash as many as possible. Making sure I read routes properly and executed well, felt like good training.

W - rest. Very lazy day

T - Back at anston. Carlos got Bullet, I tried a problem just to the left called Magnum. Its a two mover and I had to try very hard on it. After many many goes desperately slapping to the top on the last move in iso, I managed to stick it. Maybe the hardest single move I have ever done? I was out of power to do it from the ground so its one to come back for! Managed to get Soul Crusher done quickly on the way back so it was a quite productive session. The trick that unlucked the first crux stab on it was all to do with getting alot of tension on the right foot and clawing in hard. Learning.

F - Another rest day in preperation for a big session the next day. Once again spent it being a lazy bastard, not much to do these days when resting and with no uni work to do.

S - Very big volume day at Churnet. The main goal of the day was to give The Mentalist a very good flash go and to get lots of volume in elsewhere. On the flash go I managed to do the hardest move to a pocket which is fairly low percent, but then fell trying to get the heel on, partly because of how painful the right hand pocket was the way I held it. Dispatched it fully and handful of goes after. Very memorable climbing pulling on the pebbles, unlike any other climbing I have done in the Uk. Got a ton more volume after around the mid to highish 7's. It was a very nice nostalgic return to churnet after not being for quite a while.

S - Too hot to do much. Fingerboarded a bit, did some conditioning and floor core. Attempting to improve my diet a bit after living off oven chicken and chips recently!

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#3 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 10, 2022, 11:17:21 pm
Gutted not to get to High Tor for a rematch with Supersonic (Simon bailed on me and no one I know remotely interested) Could do with finding some more trad partners who are available midweek.

I'm up for this but can't do this Friday as other half is singing the Verdi Requiem for the first night of the Proms and I shall be in the Albert Hall.

M - Shuffled 1 mile. YYFY!
T - Shoulder conditioning (IsYsTs, handstands, side planks). Walked 9km. Family in Weston.
W - Family in Weston. Hip and knees conditioning (frog squats, pistol squats). Walked 7km. Drove to Pembroke.
T - Mowingword with L: the brilliant Heart of Darkness into Blowin’ in the Wind (HVS-ish). Was getting very hot so we moved to the east face and I led Charenton Crack (a beefy E2). Glad to do this as it’s often wet but was aware it would probably take an E3s worth of oomph out of me. L led Mental Block (steady E1).
F - Bosherston Head: Telekinesis (HVS) and High Life finishing up Wavelength (a great HVS this way, following a line of least resistance traversing above the Preposterous Tales cave on huge holds). Waited for the tide to go out but unfortunately, even at lowest ebb and a very calm sea, the base of the Monster face was awash. It needs lower than a neap tide. L did Cool for Cats (E1) finding it tough going wearing a pair of tight Magos in the heat.
S - Feeling tired. Had a vigorous disagreement over breakfast with a pair of full-on "it's like a bad cold" Covid-deniers. Several in the hut were very upset by their comments. Sample argument: “they don’t lock-down the country because thousands are dying of cancer.”  :furious: 

Headed to the west face of Space Buttress to escape the heat. Abseil rope got stuck under water, jumped-in but failed to disentangle it, failed to cut off the end of the rope, failed to solo out, sat on the ledge and thought for a bit, got back in the water by which time the swell must have loosened it and it came free quite easily. By this time the tide had come in and the start of the route we were aiming to do (Rising Damp...) was awash. Prusiked the first 20m of the abseil rope then top-roped the second pitch of Planet Waves (E2) carrying the rack, a 60m half rope, and 40m of damp abseil rope. Felt I’d had enough excitement for the day and went for a restorative pint at the St Govan’s Inn followed by excellent fish and chips at Rowlies.
S - Drove back to London. Scorchio! Walked 7km.

A fun few days in Pembroke despite the heat and non-ideal tides. I didn't do an E3 but I’ve expended less effort on many than I did on Charenton Crack so I’m sure they will come soon.

Back to the power endurance this week.


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#4 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 11, 2022, 08:11:44 am
M - 12 hr shift. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Knee rehab.
T - TCA, 90 min, CBA to pull hard when I arrived so decided to do a timed attempt at all oranges (6A - 6B+) 32 problems, all flashed, 27:45. Pretty sure none of them were 6B+, and several were less than 6A, but still got a good sweat on. Did a few harder things after, two blacks and a blue, plus a few attempts at a tricky black. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
W -  8 hr shift. TCA, 1 hr, just fucking about really, but managed a blue I'd tried a bit before.
T - 8 hr shift. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
F -  2 min plank with variations and press ups. Bit of swimming with daughter.
S - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Fair bit of walking around for Pride.
S - TCA 1 hr, tried a few whites and managed two blues. No limit moves though. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.

71 kg
2022 plank total 191 min

James Malloch

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#5 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 11, 2022, 08:32:41 am
M. Drove back to the Frankenjura. Straight to our favourite crag Ankatalwand. Arrived late so just had one go on Virus 7c/+. Felt desperate. Zora climbed the wrong beta on her project - doh.

T. Back to Ankatalwand. I went up Virus again, find some nice beta to avoid some of the worst crimps. Dropped the last move on the first redpoint - stupidly used a sloping foot rather than the amazing one which I’d used before. Went smoothly on the next go. Hardest route I’ve done  :2thumbsup:

However more importantly, Zora toproped Computerspieler, her first 7a! And a very hard one at that! She nearly fell off shaking with excitement after climbing through the crux for the first time! Really nice process watching her work out the route as she doesn’t normally redpoint anything.

W. Quick hit too Marientaler Wand. Did a hard but great 6a+ called Schlaffsack. It shares the last 5m with a 7a called airbag. I tried the crux whilst lowering and it went smoothly from the ground. Drove to near Frankfurt.

T. Drove to near Calais.

F. Ferry back and then had a nice weekend in Brighton.

S. Brighton

S. Drove home to skipton.


Part one of the trip has ended VC and it’s been great so far. Really got into the flow with my climbing and been enjoying visiting different places. We had 88 days in the EU and managed:

28 days of sport climbing
12 days of bouldering
2 days inside
1 day where we used the fingerboard.

So basically one on one off.

I actually feel rested for a change too in terms of work stresses. Really makes you think what to do about work when we start looking again. I think the 9-5 slog will be a harder sell now!

Climbing wise I think I’ve not taken more than 2 redpoints on anything, but managed my second 7c and one given 7c/+. Quite enjoyed the quick ticks. Been keen to try some harder things but it’s hard to motivate yourself when there’s enough variety of easier things to go at!

Now to work out what to do with the U.K. part of the trip!
« Last Edit: July 11, 2022, 08:40:42 am by James Malloch »

Liamhutch89

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#6 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 11, 2022, 10:28:28 am
I stopped posting here earlier this year as I started getting some coaching, but I think this thread helps my psych for actually getting things done outside. I don't know whether that's ego fuelled or otherwise, but I suppose it doesn't matter!

M: Lunch time - density hangs 4 x 30s @ bodyweight (lattice edge, 3 mins rest)
Evening - 45 min board session - limit problems focusing on pinches (weakness) and 'Enter the Dragon Crux Simulator Harder Version'. Followed by 30 mins side split and pancake mobility work

T: Conditioning. weighted pull ups for 4 sets of 2 (85.2kg + 57.5kg), ridiculous bench press substitute doing ring pressups with feet elevated and a dipping belt around my chest for 4 sets of 6 (+20kg), forearm dumbell curls 4 sets of 8 (25kg flexors, 12.5kg extensors), 2 x core circuit: V-sits (+10kg), dish hold (+10kg, 45s), L-sit (30s) ab-wheel rollout (standing), side plank (+25kg, 45s)

W: 45 min mobility. Main focus on font and side splits

T: Lunch time - density hangs 4 x 30s (+1kg, lattice edge, 3 mins rest).
Evening - An cap board session. 14 move boulder problem x 12 reps with 3 min rest. Fucked up the intensity and only completed 3/12 reps. Poor. 4 x 6 pistol squats (+20kg)

F: explosive pullups, 4 sets of 3 at bodyweight. 45 min general mobility.

S: Bouldering. Didn't have many expectations for the day due to the heat, so I stayed localish and went to Lound Hill. Warmed up then repeated Colour of the Sky first try. Feels more 7B+/7C to me these days but I do have it fairly dialled! Set to work on Mind Echo. I'd never done the huge blind move from under the roof to the crimp slot but for some reason it clicked today and then I could do it 50:50 but it's still a very hard move! Tried from the bottom and powered out near the top, had 20 min rest then dispatched next try! This one is definitely more 7C+ for me. Finished by repeating the link up Synesthesia 7C+ which is still possibly my favourite of the 3. Good session considering I didn't expect to do anything.

evening: ring I's, Y's, T's. 30 min mobility

Vid below to promote this underappreciated crag. I've previously uploaded some of the other problems too:



S: 20 min mobility.




tommytwotone

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#7 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 11, 2022, 11:23:45 am
LTG: 4 limbs all working properly together

Keep forgetting I am actually doing stuff. I have actually started keeping a paper training diary for the first time in my 25 year climbing career as well!

Also - no booze since Father's Day, largely improved / tightened up diet as well.

Tues: LSD eve - shoulder stretches / nerve glides / warmup, then 4 sets of 5 on, 5 off repeaters. All 4 fingers, 2 sets on BM2000 big slots, 2 sets on BM1000 bottom outer slots. Bit of a potter round some sub-V2 problems that didn't trigger my knee off, and than I could safely reverse off.

Weds: Knee specialist appointment for post-MRI debrief. Definitely torn meniscus, so needs orthoscopy, most likely "cutting away the bad bit" apparently, though a repair is potentially an option.

Thurs: As per Tues but did manage to find a V3 I could do / get off safely!

Sat: Gym, usual circuit of shoulder / arm weights stuff I can do without needing my legs

Keeping ticking over. Operation is apparently provisionally booked in for July 25th (thank god for work-contract-included private healthcare).

Duncan Disorderly

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#8 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 11, 2022, 12:17:08 pm
Endurance Club...

M: 2 x 4's @ AW up to F6b+
T: 5 mile run over Owler Tor and Burbage - Lovely to be out, was well slow but ran the whole curcuit so fitness isn't too bad...
W: Lumping massive speakers around - Probably the hardest training I've done in ages... Sound system is now back in Sheffield YYFY!
T: Sheaf Bloc - Planned to do my PE circuit but couldn't do the crux so just bouldered and then had a pint.
F: Rest
S: Slow walk with dad in't Peak... He's 83 so included a few sit down's to pontificate and sort the world out... Nice
S: 4x4's @ AW - Hotter than the surface of the sun! Managed a full set of 16 routes up to F6b and a few warmups... Think I sweated out half my bodyweight! Earned my pint and burger dinner!

Finally feeling like I'm back on the horse - still had remnants of the last few weeks illness early on but back to normal by the end of the week... Think last weeks gains were a fluke of post illness (sure there's a thread about that  :coffee:) so am being systematic and working the endurance to ensure I'm back to where I was first... Still have to do my Lettuce assessment but have less than 12 weeks before Kaly now so willl probably just make it up for now and get the proper plan on't go in the Autmn/Winter... Maybe??

shark

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#9 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 11, 2022, 06:48:08 pm
Cheers Shark.
8bMark, what a great way to be known  :bow:

He’s better known by a more damning nickname

Wood FT

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#10 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 11, 2022, 06:52:45 pm


Vid below to promote this underappreciated crag. I've previously uploaded some of the other problems too:





Nicely done, somehow doesn't convey the drop as it actually is.

Wellsy

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#11 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 11, 2022, 08:36:23 pm
This week I started a new training block

Monday - Session with Karl at North Coaching. Really good, lots of great tips for how to structure my Sessions. Also noted my footwork has a lot of room to improve, which is EXACTLY what I wanted to hear, a concrete weakness I can work on! Big Session with a lot of climbing and trying hard. Shoulder rotations 3 x 12 with 4kgs to focus on the rear delts.

Tuesday - More chilled climbing Session followed by fingerboarding (1 arm, 10kgs taken off, 20mm edge, can do around 5 seconds left arm side 7-10 right), 6 sets. Then assisted one armers, 10kgs taken off, 5 sets of 2 per arm. 75kgs bench 5x5. Strict press for sets of 5 at 40kgs, 42.5kgs, 45kgs, 47.5kgs and 50kgs (personal best!). 3 x 5 one armed shrugs per arm.


Wednesday - Burbage North to try my mates new problem Mantle Health Awareness, 6B+ felt about right for the grade. Struggled on a 6C slab for I am shit at slabs. Did the worst 6Aish in the world around the back of it. Did some laps on easy (5+ ish) stuff and pissed around eliminating, doing it barefoot etc.

Thursday - rest, sorting out a new kitchen

Friday - rest, went to Manchester

Saturday - board session, too hot really but managed to get it done, very fingery time. Painful on the skin. Made progress on a long running project.

Sunday - Anston in the morning to try Screaming Dream, which is a sandbag at 6C+, even with painful skin, bad connies and tired from the last day's sesh. Figured out all the moves though so it'll go. Seems like a bit of a hidden gem actually. Assisted one armers, 10kgs taken off, 5 sets of 2 per arm. Back off bench set at 65kgs 5x5 and OHP 3x5 at 40kgs. Went to Barbrook for a wild swim. Lovely active day.

Most importantly, full week completely dry and planning to stay that way until at least October 1st. Feels like the right decision for me for various reasons, looking forward to keeping it up :)

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#12 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 12, 2022, 12:55:57 am
Went smoothly on the next go. Hardest route I’ve done  :2thumbsup:

Nice work!   :clap2:
Quote

However more importantly, Zora toproped Computerspieler, her first 7a!
Double Nice work!  :2thumbsup:
Quote
I actually feel rested for a change too in terms of work stresses. Really makes you think what to do about work when we start looking again. I think the 9-5 slog will be a harder sell now!

I'm 4 months into a less exciting but similar work break, and it really does need something like this to properly let go and start thinking about what you really do want to do with your life eh?  Still figuring that one out.... ha

Missed a week, not a lot to write home about.

Last week:

Monday. Very low expectation day out after a weekend of revelry at Kelburn. Piss wet, but went up with a crew to Tunnel Wall at Glencoe. Got on The Third Eye (f7c) which I'd been on 7 years ago and remembered nothing. Had a bolt to bolt, then one more burn on a TR and felt like I should really just bang out some attempts. 1st RP got me to the crux, but just a bit powered out so came up short. Next go I was just tired and running out of skin and the rain was finally actually blowing into the crag.
Tue-Wed. Nowt.
Thursday: Brin Rock with Andy. Onsighted a great new 6c to warm up, then the classic "The One and Only" 7a. Quite rare for me to o/s 7a in Scotland due to the style. (pretty common in Spain / indoors etc.). Then Andy had put the climbs in Pink Wall, a hard but really fun 7b. I managed to flash right up to the crux, but came up short. I then had 2 RPs which all resulted in the same outcome!  Same damn move!  Tweaked my left shoulder a bit.
Friday: Back to Brin, bolt to bolt then fell off again next RP on the same move. Figured out new beta with a heel hook and fired it off next go. The got embroiled in Whinging Consultants, a bouldery and tenuous 7b+. Good progress and go all the moves, but struggled to hold it together.
Sat. Fam gathering in amazing sun!  Tactical 0.5% beers and a drive home...
Sun: Back to tunnel with Andy. Amazing connies, but loads of folks at the crag meant Andy couldn't get on his route. I put the clips in the third eye. Friction felt great and I was finding the moves ok on the b2b go so was feeling hopeful.

On 1st rp of the day I was a bit over-stimulated (high heart rate) and I mainly just needed to chill out at the first rest as I wasn't pumped just heart pumping! Got going in the crux section and it went suuuuuuper well. So well I had some unhelpful thoughts running through my head "I'm rinsing this" "This move feels piss easy" etc. Almost enough to lose focus!  But it all came good and it was done. Pleased it didn't take too long. Then changed crags so Andy could do some easy trad to save energy for Monday at Tunnel Wall.

James Malloch

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#13 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 12, 2022, 01:28:01 pm
Went smoothly on the next go. Hardest route I’ve done  :2thumbsup:

Nice work!   :clap2:
Quote

However more importantly, Zora toproped Computerspieler, her first 7a!
Double Nice work!  :2thumbsup:
Quote
I actually feel rested for a change too in terms of work stresses. Really makes you think what to do about work when we start looking again. I think the 9-5 slog will be a harder sell now!

I'm 4 months into a less exciting but similar work break, and it really does need something like this to properly let go and start thinking about what you really do want to do with your life eh?  Still figuring that one out.... ha

Missed a week, not a lot to write home about.

Last week:

Monday. Very low expectation day out after a weekend of revelry at Kelburn. Piss wet, but went up with a crew to Tunnel Wall at Glencoe. Got on The Third Eye (f7c) which I'd been on 7 years ago and remembered nothing. Had a bolt to bolt, then one more burn on a TR and felt like I should really just bang out some attempts. 1st RP got me to the crux, but just a bit powered out so came up short. Next go I was just tired and running out of skin and the rain was finally actually blowing into the crag.
Tue-Wed. Nowt.
Thursday: Brin Rock with Andy. Onsighted a great new 6c to warm up, then the classic "The One and Only" 7a. Quite rare for me to o/s 7a in Scotland due to the style. (pretty common in Spain / indoors etc.). Then Andy had put the climbs in Pink Wall, a hard but really fun 7b. I managed to flash right up to the crux, but came up short. I then had 2 RPs which all resulted in the same outcome!  Same damn move!  Tweaked my left shoulder a bit.
Friday: Back to Brin, bolt to bolt then fell off again next RP on the same move. Figured out new beta with a heel hook and fired it off next go. The got embroiled in Whinging Consultants, a bouldery and tenuous 7b+. Good progress and go all the moves, but struggled to hold it together.
Sat. Fam gathering in amazing sun!  Tactical 0.5% beers and a drive home...
Sun: Back to tunnel with Andy. Amazing connies, but loads of folks at the crag meant Andy couldn't get on his route. I put the clips in the third eye. Friction felt great and I was finding the moves ok on the b2b go so was feeling hopeful.

On 1st rp of the day I was a bit over-stimulated (high heart rate) and I mainly just needed to chill out at the first rest as I wasn't pumped just heart pumping! Got going in the crux section and it went suuuuuuper well. So well I had some unhelpful thoughts running through my head "I'm rinsing this" "This move feels piss easy" etc. Almost enough to lose focus!  But it all came good and it was done. Pleased it didn't take too long. Then changed crags so Andy could do some easy trad to save energy for Monday at Tunnel Wall.

Thanks! And it definitely does need a proper break to clear your head. Realistically I will go back into the same line of work, but either part time on a perm contract, or full time on contract work but actually take breaks between jobs. I think both offer good balances for me.

What’s The Tunnel like? I’ve been keen to go but don’t really know much about it - just remember being told it’s an amazing wall for 7c and up…

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#14 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 12, 2022, 01:43:28 pm
M: Mt. Evans. Second session on Bierstadt V10, made some minor progress but overall felt weaker and still couldn't do any more moves. Tried Ludder's Pinch V6++ for a while, trying the dyno beta. Almost sent but then it came into the sun. Went to finish off Ben's Arete V6 which took some figuring out


T: G1. Legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. RDLs 60lb X2 X5 *3sets. 10 mins Stairmaster, level 9

W: Texas Rock Gym, Houston. Not a great gym but a good session. Heavy weightbelt, maybe 10lb would mean 20mm hangs up to 80lb added. Campus up to 1-4-6.5. Board climbing up to V6/7. Some light weighted pull-ups to finish

F: Wild Basin. Straight from the airport into the mountains - sick session. Warmed up then onto Bankhead V7 (lots of people say V8). Was maybe half a cm off flashing it, sent second go. The Open Road V5 sent quickly so put up a potential FA linkup called The North Circular V6. Finished the day flashing a classic highball Immortal Technique V5. So good topping out with storms in the background.


S: Lincoln Lake. Headed to Chalk on Rock, in the sun and just as grim as I remembered. Went to The Idiot V5 which was a really good basic boulder. Briefly tried Unshackled V10, flashed the first move but the rest not my style. Finished flailing with bad beta on Fragile Tension V8. Short session as I had to get back to Denver for wine tasting

Duma

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#15 Re: Power Club 652 4-10 July 2022
July 12, 2022, 10:15:17 pm
Short session as I had to get back to Denver for wine tasting

Oh my heart bleeds! ;-)

 

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