[remus]

What's the knowledge on DWS around North Wales? Particularly interested in anything near Llandudno as that's where I'll be this weekend but also more generally interested in what's on offer.

There's the stuff in Vivian Quarry (dodgy access at the mo?) and I remember hearing about a Pete Robins ~8a traverse thing somewhere around llandudno, and electric blue of course, but other than that I've got no idea what's available. Surely with all that sea and all those cliffs the two must combine for some DWS somewhere?

[Ross Barker]

From my knowledge there are some bits at The Diamond (inc. Robins' 8a), Pigeons Cave and Lighthouse Crags. Low tide this weekend is smack bang in the middle of the day, though, so I'm assuming that rules a few things out unless you're keen for early mornings or evening dips.

[remus]

Good spot on the tides. Think I'd struggle to get a morning hit in so it'll be an evening if at all.

Stumbled on this handy list on UKC that's got the bits you mentioned plus a few others https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=5197 Not as much as I expected 

[andy moles]

I compiled that list as the sum of everything I'm aware of, I'm sure there's more but even some of those things are pretty isolated and obscure.

Nant Gwytheyrn on the near side of the Lleyn is class if you catch it with an evening high tide. Earlier in the day it tends to be very greasy and looks totally improbable until there's some chalk on it, but is positive enough still to be really good. The least safe part is the approach. Good place to have an inflatable and paddle around from the beach.

The limited amount I've done around the Orme I've not been blown away by, the water is often pretty murky and jellyfishy, but besides Electric Blue that's the most popular area. Gateau Zawn is the most convenient. I watched Hickish do Primeval but didn't fancy it myself as it sounded like most of the jugs were full of muck, it's very slow to dry. The Heel Hook Look at the Diamond, which I think is the 8a you're on about, does look very cool.

Vivian is indeed still out of bounds (and it's not your standard fun DWS either!)

All those Jules Lines things around North Stack are very high, I've not heard of anyone else doing them.

[Wood FT]

Isn’t there a new venue up past Caernarfon that you’ve been to Mike?

I’ve seen pics of some nice looking wall with Pete Robbins on it.

There you go, clear directions.

Edit: Venue has been mentioned above and I called Andy ‘Mike’ for some reason.

[Ross Barker]

Nant Gwrtheyrn is a good shout, looks like a pleasant venue. Could potter around Porth Howel while the tide is out, then get above the water once it comes in!

[chickencurry60]

Any route descriptions (Topo sounds overly optimistic) for Nant Gwrtheyrn? Do you need high tides for it to be safe Andy? Thinking about checking it out next weekend, sounds cool

[andy moles]

I think I might have a photo somewhere that could be made into a topo, or at least showing the lines when they're chalked, but can't find it just now. Will have a better look over the next few days.

This is Dan McManus's video from the first ascents:



It doesn't need to be high tide, in fact you can do the traverse in a slightly easier way at mid-tide. I'm not certain whether it would still be fine at a really low tide, you can see the bottom when the sun shines in as the water's nice and clear, and it looks reassuringly deep when the water's up. I'd say all the lines are S0 apart from the leftmost one (not in the video), where the opposing wall of the zawn feels a little close, but high enough that they're probably on the cusp of S1, i.e. exciting, given the cruxes are near the top. You could certainly do the traverse at any tide, it's good in both directions striding across the back of the zawn to start/finish. Like I say the sketchiest part is the approach scramble around the headland from the beach, it's like soloing a slightly loose Diff.

[Hoseyb]

Simple approach (it's £2 for the parking now)park at the centre, down to the beach and turn right. There's a slanty break to scramble onto the spur as mentioned above.
Gets a bit hectic with a southerly breeze.
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2015/08/an-ill-wind.html?m=1
Vid of a choppy day here.
Also an example of why you walk out along beach rather than bushwhack.

There's another venue in Trefor, but it's not been tried yet, needs an escape rope as top is loose, although belay is bomber.
More info here
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2015/08/birthday-antics.html?m=1

[chickencurry60]

Cheers for the info guys 

[remus]

Good knowledge, thanks for all the links and vids. Psyched to check out Nant Gwythern next time Im in the area, does look a mint spot for a bit of evening action.