UKBouldering.com

Climbing Hangar Sheffield- thoughts? (Read 9899 times)

Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 753
  • Karma: +32/-10
    • Climberbiker.
Climbing Hangar Sheffield- thoughts?
July 03, 2022, 02:49:22 pm
Are there any people here how are regulars at the Hangar in Sheffield?
Had a look around yesterday, looks good. Appears to be loads of variation in the hold types and angles of problems.
Apparently they’re going to add a circuit board very soon.
Debating between here & the Climbing Depot.
After a bouldering gym with loads of variety & section with physical conditioning.

matt463

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 54
  • Karma: +0/-0
Just recently swapped to here instead of Depot. Much better in my opinion. Prefer the hold type variation on the same grades. Depot tend to have the same sort of holds for each different grade boundary.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4344
  • Karma: +351/-26
The Hangar apparently has a no tops off rule, which I have a visceral dislike to...

Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 753
  • Karma: +32/-10
    • Climberbiker.
My days of no top are long gone.

Very conscious of how unsightly I appear nowadays. 
I couldn’t put anyone through that sight.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3110
  • Karma: +151/-5
Pros:

Good setting and variety of surfaces/holds.

Friendly and professional staff. Feels very inclusive. No tops off policy.

Good campus board.

Good mid-grade up to 7a/7a+ Beastmaker board.

Good lower grade Kilter board.

Cafe separate from chalky climbing area. Pizza. Beer.

There are weights etc but I can’t really comment as I never used that area.

Cons:

Size. I got a bit bored eventually.

‘Atmosphere’. I rarely saw anyone there I knew and prefer the Works as a place to go.

No circuit board. Dunno what their plans are but the Depot circuit boards are hard to beat.

Not so good if you’re operating 7c and above.

Expensive cafe.

Conclusion. If location isn’t a factor I’d personally choose the Depot over the Hangar. I’d probably recommend the latter to a beginner and kids really like it. Or for short/lunch time sessions if you’re operating up to Font 7a and not so bothered about circuits.

Goat

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 22
  • Karma: +9/-0
I have bouldered at the gyms around sheffield, and the hangar surprised me with how good it is. Here's my summary

-Cheapest gym in Sheffield-monthly membership at £29 a month.
-Reset very, very often. New comp climbs seem to go up all the time and individual walls are reset very frequently. This is great.
-In my opinion, the best setting in Sheffield. (Controversial and may start a new thread.) It goes without saying that this is a personal preference. All gyms have their own unique quality that makes them good. The reason I like the Hangar best, on the whole, is that. 1) The problems are just fun. 2) They never seem to be unfair. If you can't do a move it most often will seem in some way doable- This is something many gyms struggle with when setting. 3) The slab setting is just excellent. 4) Large range of walls as well as 2 training boards (kilter and beastmaker.)
-Nice staff.
-Great range of holds crimps, pinches, slopers volumes etc.
-I'm pretty sure if you climbed without your top on no one would care, especially if it was hot.

Don't want to go into great detail about the other gyms in Sheffield. However, I am currently switching monthly membership between the hangar and another gym.

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1380
  • Karma: +73/-2
The tops off rule is enforced. The wall is good and the setting excellent but it feels like a destination wall where you go for funky, interesting problems every once in a while. Many of the problems are trick moves/funky moves so hard to know when you are going well. Whereas the depot feels like the problems are more basic so it feels like you make more measured progression.

Mostly_Inanimate_Beans

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 57
  • Karma: +3/-0
  • Colossal Punter
Fun as a one off every now and then, much prefer The Foundry.

Kilterboard is good for stroking the ego.

No tops off is irritating.


Carliios

  • Guest
I found a workaround for the no tops off rule. Where a dress shirt and unbutton it

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5073
  • Karma: +144/-13
I found a workaround for the no tops off rule. Where a dress shirt and unbutton it
Do you leave your Bow tie still tied or undone.

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1467
  • Karma: +84/-6
I get where they’re coming at with the no tops off rule, vests for the win.

matt463

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 54
  • Karma: +0/-0
Yea I don’t find the rule too distressing either. Just another public place where it’s expected that I stay fully clothed

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13693
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
It's good for the auto-boycott without visiting. Any place that inhibits training* and penalises people with hot-running metabolisms can  :icon_321:



(* oh but wait you have to wear a top at the gym OMG REALLY well guess fucking what you're not trying to keep cool enough to hold frictional slopers at the gym, WHATEVER dickwads)

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1594
  • Karma: +124/-11
It's pretty decent, but I'd go to the Works first and Depot second tbh

dr_botnik

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 150
  • Karma: +7/-1
  • Not actually a dr
I do think the setting is really high quality, even on the lower grades. As others have said, the depot has more board space and circuit boards (and more space for circuits) so it can get busy at peak times. It's walking distance from my house so I have membership, but I am strongly considering switching to the depot now that my work commute takes me down the parkway...

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3646
  • Karma: +200/-3
I found a workaround for the no tops off rule. Where a dress shirt and unbutton it

After Leeds (Pudsey) Depot attempted to enforce a similar ban years back, my intended workaround was a white t-shirt, printed with a photograph of my own torso, to see what would happen next.

Thankfully they saw sense and reversed the embargo!


Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • junky
  • Posts: 776
  • Karma: +43/-0
  • Stealth Punter
Went once, I thought the setting was good and the bar area looked nice...

Did feel a clear 20 years older than most of the other punters and a little out of place... They all look so young and fresh-faced with all their own hair and teeth!!
It's not that I like to see men in their 40's, 50's and 60's in their underpants getting changed in the middle of the wall but I've just come to expect it...

 ;D

Carliios

  • Guest
I found a workaround for the no tops off rule. Where a dress shirt and unbutton it

After Leeds (Pudsey) Depot attempted to enforce a similar ban years back, my intended workaround was a white t-shirt, printed with a photograph of my own torso, to see what would happen next.

Thankfully they saw sense and reversed the embargo!

I just don’t get it but also I run really hot when I’m bouldering usually because I don’t stop between attempts to rest so I find myself sweating buckets. I wish gyms would just get over it and let people go topless. I don’t see what the issue is personally. It’s just a body, who gives a shit?

People complain about it being unsanitary but no one stops the punters from going into the toilets with their tarantulaces?!?

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3889
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
Those who are complaining about not being able to take their tops off in a wall should definitely avoid going to anywhere with an Islamic government, it was definitely not allowed in Malaysia, and it's an awful lot hotter there than in Yorkshire!

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1380
  • Karma: +73/-2
I find it very funny seeing young fellas peacocking about the wall. I too used to peacock about the wall, then I got a hairy back.

I know fiend is a sweaty git, but surely most incidences of tops off at the wall are young lads wanting to show the world their bulging muscles?


Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9782
  • Karma: +269/-4
Wait until they install a foil blanket in the roof and turn on the heaters at any sign of someone wanting to stretch (I'm looking at you Liverpool).

danm

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 845
  • Karma: +112/-1
A friends teenage daughter loves the Hangar precisely because of the no tops embargo. Her and her mates find young guys strutting around shirts off really intimidating, to the extent that she'd been a very keen climber until she hit puberty then stopped going, but has now enthusiastically embraced the Hangar as her safe space to climb. In that case, fair play to them, as there are big societal issues with young women dropping out of physical activity aged around 14 and anything which helps reduce that is a good thing, both for climbing and society in general.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3646
  • Karma: +200/-3
I find it very funny seeing young fellas peacocking about the wall. I too used to peacock about the wall, then I got a hairy back.

I know fiend is a sweaty git, but surely most incidences of tops off at the wall are young lads wanting to show the world their bulging muscles?



As a Dad of 2 youngish kids, having just gone through the last couple of years of COVID / lockdowns / home schooling / working from home etc, if I climb topless there definitely aren't any bulging muscles on show...bulging Dad-bod / muffin top maybe, but muscles are a dim and distant memory!

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4344
  • Karma: +351/-26
Yann summed up my thoughts on no tops off rules in climbing very well back in about 2005 when Oxford Brookes tried to introduce that rule (IIRC we ignored them): "It's climbing, not golf". 

surely most incidences of tops off at the wall are young lads wanting to show the world their bulging muscles?
Given how many people are tops off at the School when on their own, this doesn't seem likely to me. Or people just see me coming and quickly rip their top off in order to impress me. Perhaps its different at some walls though.

Pros: No tops off policy.
Cons: ‘Atmosphere’
:-\ (yes, I know, correlation is not necessarily causation)

How do people who struggle with tops off cope at the crag, a sunny park, or a beach? If walls want to introduce it then that's their prerogative, but I'll always vote with my feet

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1467
  • Karma: +84/-6
I think to try and understand peoples logic on this you've really got to try and put yourself in their shoes. I run really hot when i'm climbing and used to much prefer to climb without a shirt on. Now that I'm so incredibly woke and sensitive I did pause to think about how other users of the wall were perceiving the environment that they were walking in to.

Imagine you're a young lass who's a bit self conscious walking into a wall for her first session and it was full of youths and old sweaty geezers with their shirts off. That's how it used to be back in the day, you can say yeah it's just a body and toughen up etc but the fact is that it puts some people right off and I personally want climbing to be as accessible and easy to get into for as many people who are motivated to give it a go as possible.

As far as you're beach analogy goes barrows it doesn't really compute for me, you can go places in a park or a beach that are out of the way but if you want a board session then you're forced into close proximity with people whether you like it or not.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal