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Power Club 651 27 June - 3 July 2022 (Read 2327 times)

shark

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Power Club 651 27 June - 3 July 2022
July 03, 2022, 10:55:43 am
11.5-7 average 160.2 down 2.1lbs

M.

T. AM Home warm up. High Tor with Simon. Thought I’d be ambitious and try Supersonic. Simon did Original Route so I could check that the finishing jug wasn’t full of mud and grass. Was ok but cleared it out a bit more. Got through the low crux ok but got tired placing gear and generally fucking about, overgripping and being inefficient. Felt spent physically and mentally by time I got to the Flaky Wall crux and reversed down to the gear and lowered off. Simon went up and finished up Flaky Wall. Expected be all over the place following as I felt so tired especially with some sun now on it but pissed up it seconding which highlighted my shortcomings when on the sharp end.

W. AM. Home warm up then back to High Tor to retrieve gear inadvertently left on Original Route belay. Ballache roadworks at Darley Dale. PM with Simon at Cornice. Full of local legends - was like being back there in the late 80’s. Felt really good doing Clarion Call. Then tried to retroflash Who’s Line Is it Anyway. Shut down on crux and dogged to top. First redpoint  shut down on the boulder problem crux again and started thinking it must be 7b+ but worked out a decent foot sequence - may have stretched in from high on the right in the past and Keith said holds have come off? Anyway it all came together nicely on the redpoint and I climbed fluidly and was pleasantly surprised I didn’t get pumped on the headwall.

T.

F. AM Home FB. Rainy forecast but turned out OK. With Seb at Central Buttress. Wore a helmet. Ticked C’est Plastique 6b+, Freedom is Insane 7a, La Route 7a and Fatal Attraction 7a+. Came unstuck on a weird 6c+ left of Fire on Water that I’d rather forget about. Spent a fortune on totem cams and a lightweight helmet at Outside on way home.

S.

S.

Despite making a hash of Supersonic I’m glad I had a go and got as far as I did. Planning to have another go later this week. Feel like my climbing is coming together and happy that weight is now down at a reasonable level.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2022, 11:42:41 am by shark »

Aussiegav

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Good post Shark.

Rehab Club

Monday -
Peloton ride  45min

Tuesday
5 weeks post op today. Rest day. Finger rehab

Wednesday -

After my ‘easy’ 4×4 bouldering at the school on Saturday morning and it’s taken 3 days for my finger to stop hurting. I made it worse on Saturday, it felt so painful the next 2 days. It very weak now and I can feel twinges at lesser loads than before Saturday. 
I found good A2 pulley rehab protocol on training beta and been following that since Monday.

With my finger & knee not being 100%, following a good suggestion from Duma last week,  I’m going to take a break from the School, my renewal was due on the 1 July.
I’ll probably join the Depot for 12months to have a change and restrengthen my injured parts.

Evening;  Finger rehab.
I did a session of single hand farmer lifts using a 7:3 repeater ratio. The weight was 7.5kg.
3 sets of 7 reps 7:3 ratio with 3 min rests. 3 sets in open hand – 3 sets in half crimp.
There was no pain during or afterwards.

Did a 45min peloton ride afterwards.

Thursday -
45 min peloton ride & knee rehab work

Friday -
Finger rehab
Followed the rehab protocol- No pain repeaters of single hand farmer lifts using a 7:3 repeater ratio. The weight was 7.5kg.
3 sets of 7 reps 7:3 ratio with 3 min rests. 3 sets in open hand – 3 sets in half crimp. Repeated this sequence with 12.7kg. No pain during or afterward, but did feel weak.
For my non injured hand in did single arm density hangs using a farmer lift on lattice edge attached to 12.7kg. 3 sets of 45s in open hand then repeated in half crimp. This was hard in half crimp.




Saturday -
Went to Awesome Walls in the evening after painting in the kitchen. Did easy climbs, 5a+, 5a, 5b+, 5c+, 6a, 6a, tried a 6a+, got the last sequence wrong, 5a. All routes were Onsight.

Conditioning
4×6 pull up. With 4min rest.
3×10 push ups 1.5min rests.

Finger & knee felt ok. No pain during the session.

Had a look at the Hangar on the way home. Looks good, only down sides, no circuit board or Moonboard. Everything else is good.

Sunday.
Painted in the kitchen again, did the usual weekend tip run. Laid in the sun & then did a 45min peloton ride.

Duma

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M - sleep off nights. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. TCA, 90 min, more time trying blues. Did one, but more satisfied with the attempts on stuff too hard tbh. Can
T - TCA, 90 min, mostly blacks but did a couple of whites and a blue too.
W -  8 hr shift. Run, 6k, flat, pavement, 30 min. Trying out how knee responds to the flat...
2 min plank with variations and press ups. Knee uncomfortable overnight, shit sleep.
T - 8 hr shift.
F -  bit of cycling around running errands and shopping, then TCA, 90 min attempting blues. One tick but it was the one that suited me most. Better, as Monday, was lots of trying hard on moves I couldn't do.
S - 12 hr shift.
S - 12 hr shift.

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 177 min
Poor sleep and knee not great this week, but at least got to the wall a bit

duncan

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Good to get on Supersonic Simon. Can you give the finishing jug a really thorough clean?!

M - Tired. 10km walk, 3 mins. shuffle.
T - Westway: ‘Aerobic power’: ~2 mins on / ~4 mins off x3 x3; followed by ‘Aerobic capacity’: ~8 mins on / ~8 mins off x2.
W - Shoulders conditioning: ITYs, handstands, lock-off on bar. 12km walk, 5 mins. shuffle.
T - ‘Aerobic capacity’: ~8 mins on / ~8 mins off x3.
F - Shoulders conditioning: ITYs, handstands, lock-off on bar. 13km walk, 8 mins. shuffle.
S - Shoulders conditioning as above. Glyndebourne (the Labour party’s opera house of choice) for a completely bonkers production of Handel’s Alcina.   
S - Westway: Fingerboard warm-up then ‘Aerobic power’: ~2 mins on / ~3 mins off x3 x3.


A decent training week. Overall fitness and capacity for training are increasing. I find PE tough and tweaky, so doing two sessions is an achievement. Breathlessness is somewhat better to the point where I even managed some very short shuffles. Off to Pembroke late this week. It has been dry and the forecast is good so I'm hoping to try something harder than E2.

tommytwotone

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Goal: all 4 limbs working together again, back to being able to give it 100% again will do me

Vague update as I can't recall specifically.

Since Father's Day I've been off the booze, generally been trying to eat a bit more sensibly (e.g. homemade granola for breakfast instead of toast, no cans of Coke with lunch, proper home-cooked dinners etc), and been getting to gym / wall 3 or 4 times a week.

Feeling much better for it, sleeping better for sure, and think physique is improving if not actual weight.

Appointment with knee specialist tomorrow to find out way forward.

Aussiegav

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Appointment with knee specialist tomorrow to find out way forward.

Best of luck

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - board climbing, finally. Static holds on project. 30,5°. Mental.
Tue - speed EMOM boxing.
Wed - very light weights.
Thu - EMOM boxing bag.
Fri - very light weights.
Sat - rest.
Sun EMOM boxing bag.
Hard week of little sleeping, little training and little eating. Tried to limit the damages.

Rocksteady

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Back in the habit
Goals: 7A+ boulder, 5 x 7a route onsights

Mon: Kettlebell swings on the minute

Tue: Rest

Wed: Max hangs. Built up to +22kg (two arms) for 7 seconds. This was a PB at +30% bodyweight added. Good progress here and it is making a noticeable difference on both routes and boulders.

Thu: Indoor routes at Westway. Planned to do easy endurance but got suckered into trying some harder routes so probably just had a trash wasted miles session. Quite enjoyed it though.

Fri: 45 minutes on the bike

Sat: Rest

Sun: Indoor limit bouldering at the Arch Acton. Mostly spent on the 50 degree board - created a sort of replica of a 7B I failed dismally on in Magic Wood and enjoyed working on that.

Duncan Disorderly

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Recovery Club...

M: Routes @ AW - Did a fair bit up to F6b
T: Wiped out - Two days on was pushing it methinks.
W-F: Nowt - Did drive to Newcastle to see The Book of Mormon though which was ace!
S: Routes @ Bollihope Quarry - Nice spot. Dodged showers and ticked the majority of the Jopla crag inc. a pretty soft F6c+, best in a while! Met some mates @ Rof 59 and OS'd a few looooong F6c's and narrowly missed out on a F7a+ flash... Surprising!
S: Routes @ Houghton Graveyard - Again dodging showers, warmed up on some F5s and 6's and thought I'd chance a F7b that looked pretty good, did all the moves on the dog then went down first RP... Pretty chuffed!

Very strange week... Been feeling like crap pretty much since getting back from Verdon and not even trying owt tricky... When I have (Sheaf bloc traverse) I've felt like I couldn't even imagine being able to do the hard moves, let alone do them!
At the start of the week, I was fully prepared for a long slog back to fitness, didn't try owt harder than F6b and was fully wiped out the next day... Saturday and Sunday, however, I felt pretty much fine... Didn't expect much at all and came away with way more than I bargained for...  :shrug: Feel pretty pooped today tbh so gonna have a day or two off and then see what this actual training lark is all about - 12 weeks to Kalymnos!

gollum

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Ran quite a long way.

Duma

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Good to have you back gollum

SA Chris

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Ran quite a long way.

Guessing Endure 24? How did you get on? I though you had an ankle injury?

Fiend

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 :punk:

JohnM

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M - rest

T - Mobility and stretching

W - Trail run 10km +397m

T - Trail run 18.56km +944m

F - Mobility and stretching. Shoulders and core + a basic 2 handed finger board session. Finally found the motivation to do a bit of climbing training!

S - Trail run 50km +3110m. Last big training run before the Eiger Ultra in 2 weeks. I struggled for most of the day. Think I got dehydrated in the first 20km and then we volunteered to carry 10 litres of water up 200 meters to a mountain hut at 3000 metres altitude because their water pump broke. I think this finished me off. Could barely walk for most of the second half although I managed to feel better in the end. Amazing tour but sad to see the glaciers are pretty much gone. They still crown some amazing scenery but are clinging on to the last bit of rock and don't extend into the valleys anymore. They will collapse and be pretty much completely gone within the decade. 

S - Climbing in Zillertal. Felt pretty motivated to climb for the first time in a while. Did an amazing 7c wall climb on perfect granite holds. It took me a couple of tries but I was happy to have an enjoyable climbing session and get away from this performance mindset that has plagued me for quite a few years. Finished on an equally good 7a+ with cool moves. 

A nice week but I have been pretty fatigued of late combined with poor sleep and work stress so trying to take it easy and build up some energy reserved again!

Coops_13

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T: G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s up to 75lb. Tensionboard 40deg 1V4, 5V5. Kilterboard 45deg, Tried hard on some V8s but send 1V5, 2 V7. Shoulder press 45lb, bicep curl 40lb, chest press 50lb X6 *3sets. Stairmaster 10 mins setting 9

S: Lincoln Lake. Bouldering at 12,000ft after four days at sea level was tough. Got on Kryptonite V8, fingery roof climb next to all the V12 - V16 cave boulders. Made good progress, falling after being powered out in the fingers. Briefly tried a couple of other boulders before doing some scrambling. Saw some mega boulders for the future

S: Hike up Herman Gulch. 7 miles, 1700ft ascent

James Malloch

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M. Went to the Kosmos bouldering walk in Leipzig. 30+ degrees but nice to climb again after a week off. Didn’t do anything hard really but lots of trying. Discovered I could one arm hang the beastmaker middle slot, though only for a very short time. Trying harder things is helping!

T. Family dinner in Dresden

W. Walk around some on the sandstone towers on the Czech border. Looks terrifying!

T. Vineyard tour - walking between tiny producers near Dresden. Lovely day

F. Back to Leipzig Boulder wall. Much cooler and managed some harder things. Good session.

S. Family stuff

S. Family stuff


Nice to climb a few times this week. Interested to see what the rest has done when we get back on rock, and what all the food and drink has done!

Realised that I forgot to put on 13th June power club that I climbed my second 7c! Worked out a good sequence bolt to bolt and it went without any drama on my second tie-in. Really pleased with that. It was at my new favourite crag, Ankatalwand.

 

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