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Grade calculator (Read 8306 times)

remus

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#25 Re: Grade calculator
July 04, 2022, 09:31:07 am
Slash grades for rests, obvs.
B+/M

haydn jones

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#26 Re: Grade calculator
July 04, 2022, 05:23:30 pm
More like 7B G 6C/6C+ bang on 8a! It works!

No it's not! It was my first 8a and at my limit at the time!

This is you on the top half  :lol:



crimpinainteasy

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#27 Re: Grade calculator
July 05, 2022, 02:09:00 pm
Apparently, I'm massively underachieving and should be able to climb 8a+ sport based on what I can do during 4x4s.

jwi

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#28 Re: Grade calculator
July 05, 2022, 02:52:12 pm
Apparently, I'm massively underachieving and should be able to climb 8a+ sport based on what I can do during 4x4s.

Just checking, I do not think you can use the grade calculator if you repeat the same boulder problem in the 4 x 4. If you can do 4 different 6B+ with 5s rest between, and they are sufficiently long (6-7 moves) I give you 7c+ or 8a or whatever, at least if you stop to clip a few times. If they are the same, and short, I give you 7a+....

crimpinainteasy

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#29 Re: Grade calculator
July 05, 2022, 11:42:27 pm
Apparently, I'm massively underachieving and should be able to climb 8a+ sport based on what I can do during 4x4s.

Just checking, I do not think you can use the grade calculator if you repeat the same boulder problem in the 4 x 4. If you can do 4 different 6B+ with 5s rest between, and they are sufficiently long (6-7 moves) I give you 7c+ or 8a or whatever, at least if you stop to clip a few times. If they are the same, and short, I give you 7a+....

yeah I can do 4 different 6B/+ boulders in a row

andy moles

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#30 Re: Grade calculator
July 20, 2022, 12:19:24 pm
Pivoting to UK trad grades...do those with more experience than I reckon that safe* 7c should be E7, or could it be hard E6?

*albeit with some slightly tricky gear for an on-sight attempt

Fultonius

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#31 Re: Grade calculator
July 20, 2022, 01:21:46 pm
I've always felt the "safe" end of the standard rockfax grade table potentially pushes too far up the sport grade range.



Examples of what I consider "safe" in the E4-E6 range and their sport grade:

(when I say safe, I mean the gear is regular and solid - even if strenuous to place)

Big Country Dreams, Cambusbarron E4: Fr 6c
Unleash the Beast, Ardmair, E4.5 6c/+?
Spirit Air, Loch Maree: (slightly bold at start but easier...so) E5: 7a
Chemin de Fer, Dumby E5.5 :7a+
Contortionism, Cambusbarron E6: 7a+/b (but just very techy)

I would put all of those is the "as safe as a sport route" category and all end up being being a full French lower than their "safe" ratings.

That said, the sport routes at Tunnel Wall used to all get E6 and they are all either F7b, or F7c+..........


andy moles

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#32 Re: Grade calculator
July 20, 2022, 01:40:08 pm
That said, the sport routes at Tunnel Wall used to all get E6 and they are all either F7b, or F7c+..........

Yeah, I suspect there are other oldschool limestone ones as well, possibly peg or partially bolt protected, which are 7c or even 7c+. I dunno if that was grade compression or overcompensating for the fixed gear or what, but I'd guess they'd be regarded as sandbags now?

I bet there are quite a few such E6s out there that are realistically quite a bit harder to on-sight than some popular boldish E7s. Which doesn't really help me  :-\
« Last Edit: July 20, 2022, 01:45:22 pm by andy moles »

rjtrials

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#33 Re: Grade calculator
July 20, 2022, 01:48:19 pm
Apparently, I'm massively underachieving and should be able to climb 8a+ sport based on what I can do during 4x4s.

Just checking, I do not think you can use the grade calculator if you repeat the same boulder problem in the 4 x 4. If you can do 4 different 6B+ with 5s rest between, and they are sufficiently long (6-7 moves) I give you 7c+ or 8a or whatever, at least if you stop to clip a few times. If they are the same, and short, I give you 7a+....

I have found doing different boulders in a 4x4 or similar to be vastly easier then doing the same boulder.  My hypothesis is that because my hands are very weak for the grade(s) i climb, that grabbing the same holds repeatedly is more difficult than using slightly different hand shapes and grips.

Fultonius

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#34 Re: Grade calculator
July 20, 2022, 02:03:24 pm
That said, the sport routes at Tunnel Wall used to all get E6 and they are all either F7b, or F7c+..........

Yeah, I suspect there are other oldschool limestone ones as well, possibly peg or partially bolt protected, which are 7c or even 7c+. I dunno if that was grade compression or overcompensating for the fixed gear or what, but I'd guess they'd be regarded as sandbags now?

I bet there are quite a few such E6s out there that are realistically quite a bit harder to on-sight than some popular boldish E7s. Which doesn't really help me  :-\

I'd err on E7 but it's all a nudge above my paygrade to realistically opine.  All depends on how obvious the gear is, how sustained the route is (although that would probably come into the "7c" bit) and how "theoretically onsightable" it was. I could see a pure 7c crack getting E6 (just, maybe?).

duncan

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#35 Re: Grade calculator
July 20, 2022, 02:25:11 pm
Keeping things warm for those actually qualified to answer, the Pembroke select guidebook usefully proposes sport grades alongside trad. I had a quick look.

Of 30 or so E6s, all were 7a-7b+ except for a sole 7c. This tricky number has had no recorded onsights and required innovative tactics for the first ascentionist. It is in Caff’s list of good E6s but obviously that’s no guarantee of anything.  Sounds like 7c is likely to be a nails E6 at minimum, which will make it harder than some E7s…

What would Mat Wright say?



 

remus

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#36 Re: Grade calculator
July 20, 2022, 03:14:44 pm
Pivoting to UK trad grades...do those with more experience than I reckon that safe* 7c should be E7, or could it be hard E6?

*albeit with some slightly tricky gear for an on-sight attempt

I haven't done many E6s, but for me the gear would need to be totally straightforward for it to be 7c and E6. Something like Bold as Love in Avon is 7b+/c and the hard bit is protected by bolts and pegs.

A38 at trym valley is perhaps another good example. Given E6 and probably 7b+ and protected by straightforward cams in a crack most of the way.

If the gear is at all fiddly I'd say E7 is fair.

andy popp

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#37 Re: Grade calculator
July 21, 2022, 03:45:23 pm
I haven't done many E6s, but for me the gear would need to be totally straightforward for it to be 7c and E6. Something like Bold as Love in Avon is 7b+/c and the hard bit is protected by bolts and pegs.

A38 at trym valley is perhaps another good example. Given E6 and probably 7b+ and protected by straightforward cams in a crack most of the way.

If the gear is at all fiddly I'd say E7 is fair.

These French grades seem a little high, unless they've both broken?

I think its conceivable that a safe 7c could be E6, but most won't be.

remus

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#38 Re: Grade calculator
July 21, 2022, 04:03:29 pm
I haven't done many E6s, but for me the gear would need to be totally straightforward for it to be 7c and E6. Something like Bold as Love in Avon is 7b+/c and the hard bit is protected by bolts and pegs.

A38 at trym valley is perhaps another good example. Given E6 and probably 7b+ and protected by straightforward cams in a crack most of the way.

If the gear is at all fiddly I'd say E7 is fair.

These French grades seem a little high, unless they've both broken?

I think its conceivable that a safe 7c could be E6, but most won't be.

Fair cop, it's a while since I did them and I was trying to think of examples that might qualify so was probably being a bit generous with the french grades.

 

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