Slash grades for rests, obvs.B+/M
Quote from: haydn jones on July 04, 2022, 08:55:19 amMore like 7B G 6C/6C+ bang on 8a! It works!No it's not! It was my first 8a and at my limit at the time!This is you on the top half
More like 7B G 6C/6C+ bang on 8a! It works!
Apparently, I'm massively underachieving and should be able to climb 8a+ sport based on what I can do during 4x4s.
Quote from: crimpinainteasy on July 05, 2022, 02:09:00 pmApparently, I'm massively underachieving and should be able to climb 8a+ sport based on what I can do during 4x4s.Just checking, I do not think you can use the grade calculator if you repeat the same boulder problem in the 4 x 4. If you can do 4 different 6B+ with 5s rest between, and they are sufficiently long (6-7 moves) I give you 7c+ or 8a or whatever, at least if you stop to clip a few times. If they are the same, and short, I give you 7a+....
That said, the sport routes at Tunnel Wall used to all get E6 and they are all either F7b, or F7c+..........
Quote from: Fultonius on July 20, 2022, 01:21:46 pmThat said, the sport routes at Tunnel Wall used to all get E6 and they are all either F7b, or F7c+..........Yeah, I suspect there are other oldschool limestone ones as well, possibly peg or partially bolt protected, which are 7c or even 7c+. I dunno if that was grade compression or overcompensating for the fixed gear or what, but I'd guess they'd be regarded as sandbags now?I bet there are quite a few such E6s out there that are realistically quite a bit harder to on-sight than some popular boldish E7s. Which doesn't really help me
Pivoting to UK trad grades...do those with more experience than I reckon that safe* 7c should be E7, or could it be hard E6?*albeit with some slightly tricky gear for an on-sight attempt
I haven't done many E6s, but for me the gear would need to be totally straightforward for it to be 7c and E6. Something like Bold as Love in Avon is 7b+/c and the hard bit is protected by bolts and pegs.A38 at trym valley is perhaps another good example. Given E6 and probably 7b+ and protected by straightforward cams in a crack most of the way.If the gear is at all fiddly I'd say E7 is fair.
Quote from: remus on July 20, 2022, 03:14:44 pmI haven't done many E6s, but for me the gear would need to be totally straightforward for it to be 7c and E6. Something like Bold as Love in Avon is 7b+/c and the hard bit is protected by bolts and pegs.A38 at trym valley is perhaps another good example. Given E6 and probably 7b+ and protected by straightforward cams in a crack most of the way.If the gear is at all fiddly I'd say E7 is fair.These French grades seem a little high, unless they've both broken?I think its conceivable that a safe 7c could be E6, but most won't be.