[jwi]

Darth Grader, the most exacting philosopher of the French grading scales for bouldering and rock climber give you the "grade calculator". A new revolutionary tool to calculate the grade of any route based on its brake down in parts.

https://darth-grader.net/Console

For instance, an 8a+ route to a (G)ood rest, followed by a 7B+ boulder to a (M)edium rest to a 7A boulder is .... 8c!



I have a strong suspicion who is hiding behind the nom de plume, but will investigate further.

[Fiend]

Well the theory behind it: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GR5O_9V3yJFU-nn295y0ImuoTl8lJazX/view will be some good bedtime reading 

[abarro81]

I played with a few examples... it seems to be right or +/- 1 with those that leapt to mind

[jwi]

Usually I find it harder to estimate the boulder grade of the crux, or the route grade of a part of a route than the grade of the entire route anyway...

But I find the calculator fascinating for edge cases. I tried it on stuff like boulder grades on 4x4s vs route grades and laps on easy routes vs route fitness, and it correlates pretty strongly with my experiences. (A 4x4 on 6B+s is 8a, 8 laps on a 7c is 8b, etc)

[Ru]

Seems basically right for the examples I used, bearing in mind that every small tweak to a grade or rest affects the outcome - so if you have a long string you can easily get a very wonky outcome by under/over estimating the difficulty of the sections or how
 good/bad the rests are.

Will - I thought the green trav was 7A - what did you enter to get 8a/+?

[Stu Littlefair]

I don’t like it. Rainshadow comes out as 8c+.

[User deactivated.]

I've done 4x4s on a 7B on my board. Does this mean I can take 9a for it?


Edit: my training notes say I failed on the 4th rep. 8c it is!

[petejh]

I don’t like it. Rainshadow comes out as 8c+.

What breakdown did you enter to get 8c+?

[jwi]

I've done 4x4s on a 7B on my board. Does this mean I can take 9a for it?


Edit: my training notes say I failed on the 4th rep. 8c it is!

No, but it indicates that you should be able to do 8c+ (5-7 s complete rest ≈ Medium rest). If you can't you are likely weak or have bad endurance? I never managed 4 different 7As in a row with 5s rest between, which would be ≈ 8b+

[duncan]

This is great.

Road Rage: 7a N 6B = 7b+
Empire: 6b+ B 6A+ N 6c = 7b
Clashing Socks: 6c G 6B = 7a+\7b


Also works for trad. routes!
Supersonic: E3h G E3h M E3 = E5s.

[edshakey]

you should be able to do 8c+. If you can't you are likely weak or have bad endurance

Motivational

[jwi]

you should be able to do 8c+. If you can't you are likely weak or have bad endurance

Motivational

:D

I was considering to tag on "... compared to your strength endurance" to the end of the sentence, but I changed my mind.

[User deactivated.]

you should be able to do 8c+. If you can't you are likely weak or have bad endurance

Motivational

:D

I was considering to tag on "... compared to your strength endurance" to the end of the sentence, but I changed my mind.

I am both weak (unless I can crimp at a high angle and lock off) and have atrocious endurance, hence I cannot climb anywhere near 8c+

[Stu Littlefair]

I don’t like it. Rainshadow comes out as 8c+.

8a M 8A B 8a/+

What breakdown did you enter to get 8c+?

[abarro81]

8a M 8A B 8a/+

That boulder - from rest to rest - would be 8A+ IMO. And add a plus for the start... And you get hard 9a... Bet you like it now!

[haydn jones]

mutation is 9b :D

[remus]

It's upgrading my hardest ascents so gets a thumbs up from me 

[jwi]

It's upgrading my hardest ascents so gets a thumbs up from me 

I tried the same trick on fb, but one of the guys who is responsible for the list of "benchmarks" they calibrated the model on brutally downgraded the boulder grades on the parts, and I ended up worse then before...

[edshakey]

Dawn Wall is 9b+ if you link it in one, good rest at each belay. Surprisingly low grade estimate imo. Now to find a 1000m rope and a tonne of quickdraws.

[jwi]

Dawn Wall is 9b+ if you link it in one, good rest at each belay. Surprisingly low grade estimate imo. Now to find a 1000m rope and a tonne of quickdraws.

Haha! Reminds me of a certain infamous onsight claim some ten years ago.

[remus]

Hot Fun Closing confirmed as a total sandbag at 8a.

[haydn jones]

More like 7B G 6C/6C+ bang on 8a! It works!

[Will Hunt]

I'm surprised it's able to be accurate when the rest elements are so subject. One man's medium rest is another's bad rest.
I keenly await jwi's sensitivity analysis on this parameter.

[petejh]

Slash grades for rests, obvs.
B/M

[remus]

More like 7B G 6C/6C+ bang on 8a! It works!

This is you on the top half