Have you tried any of the unparallel shoes? I was under the impression that the up was pretty much a Anasazi old pink or white. Haven’t tried them myself.
It's not so much "hard edging" in the "putting a tonne of force through small holds" that I'm looking for, it's weird balance of stiffness (but not too stiff, old Magos were rubbish on Sufferance), grip and precision.
Have you tried any of the unparallel shoes?
I know you said Scarpa but you're basically describing the Miura VS. For context these fit very differently to Otaki (much wider at the front) and are absolute weapons on an edge but also sensitive enough when necessary. For vert to moderate overhang they are a very strong contender. I'd agree the closest comparison from Scarpa would be Boostic or Instinct Lace.
Quote from: MischaHY on June 30, 2022, 09:50:53 amI know you said Scarpa but you're basically describing the Miura VS. For context these fit very differently to Otaki (much wider at the front) and are absolute weapons on an edge but also sensitive enough when necessary. For vert to moderate overhang they are a very strong contender. I'd agree the closest comparison from Scarpa would be Boostic or Instinct Lace. I don't know if I'm just missing something in the fit, but with Scarpa I pull them out the box, slip them on and they fit like a glove. With La Sportiva they have multiple contact points and dead spots, feel super clunky and oddly shaped. Does this change with use? I've only ever persevered with a pair of TC Pros and they took a good 1000m+ of granite to start feeling useable.Unparallel - yet to try them on (as Chris says, hard to find in Scotland) I never got on well with the 5.10 shape, and only just got the whites to work though perseverance. Dragons, pinks, VCS never worked for me. I did have greens once iirc, but like the whites they just bagged out and became floppy really quickly (probably because they didn't actually really fit me, so I was just relying on the "new shoe stiffness" to make them work.Suns out, so might actually get climbing today!
What is it about the mythical whites that everyone loves? Judging by how they are described, they don't seem very good overall! Is it just ultimate stiffness in the toe for edging? Someone needs to come up with a retrofit carbon fibre insert for any shoe.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on July 01, 2022, 10:35:01 amWhat is it about the mythical whites that everyone loves? Judging by how they are described, they don't seem very good overall! Is it just ultimate stiffness in the toe for edging? Someone needs to come up with a retrofit carbon fibre insert for any shoe.One of my climbing partners does exactly this - he makes his own carbon-fibre inserts for his climbing shoes. He got frostbitten big toes and needs the extra support.
The magos are pretty soft I think, instinct lace is the best for edging I think
Quote from: petejh on July 01, 2022, 12:07:56 pmOne of my climbing partners does exactly this - he makes his own carbon-fibre inserts for his climbing shoes. He got frostbitten big toes and needs the extra support.How does he make these inserts Pete?Guess they must be thin..
One of my climbing partners does exactly this - he makes his own carbon-fibre inserts for his climbing shoes. He got frostbitten big toes and needs the extra support.
I need a replacement for the old yellow Booster S as I'm running out of resoled ones and haven't found anything equivalent yet but haven't tried the new Mago...
Quote from: Nike Air on July 01, 2022, 10:45:33 pmQuote from: petejh on July 01, 2022, 12:07:56 pmOne of my climbing partners does exactly this - he makes his own carbon-fibre inserts for his climbing shoes. He got frostbitten big toes and needs the extra support.How does he make these inserts Pete?Guess they must be thin..I asked him and he relied: ''I bought a factory made piece of carbon fibre and cut out a piece to go under the front section of the shoes, leaving about 25mm around the edge for the rubber sole to fix, then sent them to a re-soler to fix the sole over the top. If you want really stiff get 2mm, or for a bit more feel get 1.5mm. Got the carbon fibre piece from Easy Composites. The pieces are 2mm thickness''