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How to equip a sport climb from the base to TR solo it? (Read 4809 times)

petejh

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It drives me crazy when partners start to equalise 12 mm bolts in bomber rock with a sling with a knot in it, making the belay overall about one third as strong as any of the individual parts.

 :lol:
This x 10.

Paul B

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Ah yeah this was more directed at op than you - I imagine you have your systems dialled

I'm with Duncan on this. Top stepping can also make things quite fast if used appropriately.

I (ab)used the alpine butterfly a lot when in the States for bigger stuff when hauling/cleaning; straight into one bolt with plenty of slack for me to be effective when hauling 2:1(at this point second can start stripping the belay) and AB into any remaining bolts to fix for the second. It's very fast and very adjustable; in that scenario I'm not looking for escapable as I was dragging my house with me.

andy moles

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I do not like to use the rope at all for the belay. All belays should have a central point, be easy to escape, already set for rappel if thunderstorms hit, and it should be quick to change leader if necessary.

+1 to this, I will continue to do some 'shit arrangement' with slings for these reasons (even if thunderstorms aren't usually a concern in the UK). Talking multi-pitch here obviously, it doesn't really matter a toss what you do at the top of a single pitch as long as it's safe and efficient.

I don't tend to have much issue with adjusting and untying overhands I must say, but I'll take on what JB and PH have said and try using butterflies more often.

andy moles

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+1 to this, I will continue to do some 'shit arrangement' with slings for these reasons

And a few other reasons as well - facility to belay direct from the anchor for all the reasons it might be preferable to do that, coping with any shenanigans like hoisting etc, giving partner a convenient equalised attachment point while swapping gear etc.

jwi

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I've been setting ropes up for rebolting work for years now and this is usually a solo effort when there is nobody around with awkward access around the top.
As mentioned above I used to just stick clip with a loop a gri gri and a Jumar but I have abandoned that approach years ago because after all I am rebolting a route with questionable bolts.
My method now is to tie a fig 8 and a quickdraw into each end of the rope and leap frog between the bolts. There is no rope tied into my harness. Just use a combination of gri gris and a shunt or device of your choice plus a jumar. This way you are always attached to a couple of bolts. It is also much easier to stick clip long distances with an end of rope not a loop.

To drag this back on topic, I am not sure I completely understand this method, but I like the idea of stick clipping a single rope, not doubled back, to the next bolt (if I understood correctly).

I think I will do this next time: lead solo as usual with a grigri and backup knots and the whole shebang on a regular lead rope while doing the aiding by stick clipping a short bit of rope with jumars attached to it. That way, even if the bolt high above me that I commit to blows I just take a normal (self-belayed) lead fall. This should be as quick as the normal method and substantially safer!

The only drawback I see is that I would have to bring 7-8 m of tat, and possibly a second jumar if the route is very steep and I want to ascend the rope using the grigri+jumar method.

MischaHY

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Edit: I wrote what was already written  :chair:

abarro81

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Kristian - to clarify, are you clip sticking 2 bolts ahead? So you sit on bolt 1 and stick 2 and 3, then unclip from 1 and move to 2 and stick 4 from there, move to 3 and stick 5 etc.. I like the idea of being able to take the gear out as you go like this

 

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