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Paradise found 8C - James Squire (Read 8116 times)

BrutusTheBear

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#25 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 11:28:55 am
Just down the road for me, in fact I was in the roof last night trying something a little less taxing.  The starting hold is in a very obvious 'pod' in the roof. 

The level of the pebbles can vary by metres and therefore sometimes you would need a ladder or pad stack to reach the starting holds. The levels change regularly with tide and swell eg.the Cave traverse was buried last night as the pebbles have been pushed up into a lump near the back of the cave. 

That is just the nature of this cave in particular, I guess if you're not a regular visitor you would assume that things don't change.

I have mentioned elsewhere but why not again... Acheball is completely destroyed the original arete and starting holds have fallen off.

BrutusTheBear

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#26 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 11:35:32 am
TBF, should prob get its own thread! Looks really good from the pics he's put up over the past while, hopefully the pobbles won't smash anything before Solly KD gets a chance!

Hopefully Its safe against the roof! I havent heard of any damage being done to The Kraken since it just got repeated.

On a seperate note to this, does anybody know if The Vault has seen any damage? Was keen to give that a punt
The Vault is not damaged, the problems on Carnage wall are much less affected by pebble levels  and storm damage.  Any broken holds here have been done by big strong humans but nothing that has affected the problems significantly.

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#27 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 12:44:41 pm
TBF, should prob get its own thread! Looks really good from the pics he's put up over the past while, hopefully the pobbles won't smash anything before Solly KD gets a chance!

Hopefully Its safe against the roof! I havent heard of any damage being done to The Kraken since it just got repeated.

On a seperate note to this, does anybody know if The Vault has seen any damage? Was keen to give that a punt
The Vault is not damaged, the problems on Carnage wall are much less affected by pebble levels  and storm damage.  Any broken holds here have been done by big strong humans but nothing that has affected the problems significantly.

Cheers but I got The Waterman and The Vault confused fo each other! Being right next to Ache Ball, The Waterman will be succeptable to damage.
« Last Edit: June 28, 2022, 12:54:13 pm by CapitalistPunter »

BrutusTheBear

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#28 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 12:53:39 pm
Nothing is damaged on The Waterman.  Start not possible at the moment because beach level is so high under it, would expect this to change fairly soon though..

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#29 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 29, 2022, 08:26:35 am
Who'd want to do something so dull that a layman can grasp the finer details?

Every runner in the house scratches chin..

Bradders

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#30 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 29, 2022, 08:46:34 pm
Great interview on the other channel:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/paradise_found_8c_first_ascent_at_hartland_quay_by_james_squire-73087

Couple of particular gems:
- 15 weekends in a row on a 5hr round trip! Pretty amazing commitment.
- Gained 8kg, presumably in muscle from training in the gym to better withstand the stresses of the problem. Not sure I've ever heard of anyone gaining weight in order to do a climb! Would love to know if he did anything in particular to get used to climbing at a higher body weight, as my personal experience is that an extra 8kg knocks a few grades off...

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#31 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 29, 2022, 09:22:46 pm
Great interview on the other channel:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/paradise_found_8c_first_ascent_at_hartland_quay_by_james_squire-73087

Couple of particular gems:
- 15 weekends in a row on a 5hr round trip! Pretty amazing commitment.
- Gained 8kg, presumably in muscle from training in the gym to better withstand the stresses of the problem. Not sure I've ever heard of anyone gaining weight in order to do a climb! Would love to know if he did anything in particular to get used to climbing at a higher body weight, as my personal experience is that an extra 8kg knocks a few grades off...

Wasn’t he starting from the point of being a bit of string bean?

If it were me, an extra 8kg would leave me bed ridden…

teestub

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#32 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 30, 2022, 07:32:50 am
8kg of what looks to be largely muscle is very impressive gainz in a year or so!

Wellsy

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#33 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 30, 2022, 08:51:12 am
Yeah that's a solid effort!

Incidentally I'm heavier than I've even been before right now and I'm also stronger than ever before, my fingers are also in better shape than they've ever been... so I dunno how much weight makes a difference for some but for steep bouldering for me a bit more beef was really good

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#34 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 30, 2022, 08:53:30 am
That said I ain't doing 8C mind you

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#35 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 30, 2022, 09:18:35 am
, as my personal experience is that an extra 8kg knocks a few grades off...
If it were me, an extra 8kg would leave me bed ridden…
No fucking shit. Or 10-15kg.  >:( :sick:

But obviously he's put it on to specifically climbing relevant muscles around arms back shoulders etc

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#36 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 01, 2022, 07:12:00 pm
Repeated by Solly Kemball-Dorey. Some good photos and video in the IG post:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CfeoO0HMP90/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

There is plenty of space to extend it further into the cave and there are holds. Small child for scale.


« Last Edit: July 01, 2022, 07:32:27 pm by duncan »

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#37 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 01, 2022, 09:01:48 pm
Great repeat. Fuck me insta is so fucking awful as a social medium. Video looks great, good angle and so clear, and there's no easy way to watch it full screen. Fucking shambles. Love the finish on it regardless.

monkey boy

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#38 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 01, 2022, 09:05:35 pm
Solly has put a fair bit of weight (muscle) on over the past year. It's good to see these guys trying getting stronger and more robust and rather than light.

Nice work James and Solly.

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#39 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 01, 2022, 09:10:35 pm
Bet there’s some decent back slapper falls footage, matching into the undercuts looks so tenuous.

duncan

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#40 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 03, 2022, 09:27:32 pm
Fuck me insta is so fucking awful as a social medium. Video looks great, good angle and so clear, and there's no easy way to watch it full screen. Fucking shambles.

Now on YouTube:


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#41 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 04, 2022, 10:33:09 pm
Fuck me insta is so fucking awful as a social medium. Video looks great, good angle and so clear, and there's no easy way to watch it full screen. Fucking shambles.

Now on YouTube:



Fuck me, that feet first finish looks pretty spicy!

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#42 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 05, 2022, 10:15:06 am
Cheers Duncan. Video comes with a free MUTE ASAP warning  :ohmy:

That finish is still brilliant, what a way to gain the jugs.

Solly has put a fair bit of weight (muscle) on over the past year. It's good to see these guys trying getting stronger and more robust and rather than light.
JFC really. 1:10 he's a rake with shoulders and lats. As usual it's a showcase of how important being light is.

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#43 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 05, 2022, 12:23:18 pm
Thick and juicy is the way and the light

monkey boy

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#44 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 05, 2022, 12:40:11 pm
Cheers Duncan. Video comes with a free MUTE ASAP warning  :ohmy:

That finish is still brilliant, what a way to gain the jugs.

Solly has put a fair bit of weight (muscle) on over the past year. It's good to see these guys trying getting stronger and more robust and rather than light.
JFC really. 1:10 he's a rake with shoulders and lats. As usual it's a showcase of how important being light is.

I didn't say he wasn't still light, he's young and also that is his build but he has put on a reasonable amount of weight/muscle to make him stronger, rather than going down the line of trying to lose weight. Climbing is always going to be weight dependent sport but what I was saying with James and Solly is that it is good to see they recognised they needed to be stronger and more injury resistant and so put on muscle bulk and weight to climb harder, rather than trying to eek out marginal gains by losing weight.

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#45 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
July 05, 2022, 04:39:38 pm
Fair point yes, he looks lean / very slim, rather than too skinny, and your general point of going down the safer path of bigger guns rather than bigger eating disorders is a good one.

 

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