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Paradise found 8C - James Squire (Read 8113 times)

yetix

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Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 05:08:20 pm
New problem at Hartland by squire https://www.instagram.com/p/CfUIeQUjC5q/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= for more info

Edit. Just seen dumas post on the other thread

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#1 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 05:14:57 pm
TBF, should prob get its own thread! Looks really good from the pics he's put up over the past while, hopefully the pobbles won't smash anything before Solly KD gets a chance!

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#2 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 05:16:46 pm
It looks brilliant! Does he pull on off a ladder and kick it down or start lower in the roof do you know?

remus

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#3 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 06:52:47 pm
It looks brilliant! Does he pull on off a ladder and kick it down or start lower in the roof do you know?

Going off the vid it looks like he's starting off the ladder. You can see it wobbling a little in the background at the start.

Regardless it looks like ace climbing, 8C power scream at the end too!

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#4 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 06:57:07 pm
It depends on height of the pebbles on the beach as to whether you can pull on from the floor or need a bit more height.

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#5 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 07:38:20 pm
TBF, should prob get its own thread! Looks really good from the pics he's put up over the past while, hopefully the pobbles won't smash anything before Solly KD gets a chance!

Hopefully Its safe against the roof! I havent heard of any damage being done to The Kraken since it just got repeated.

On a seperate note to this, does anybody know if The Vault has seen any damage? Was keen to give that a punt

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#6 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 08:25:32 pm
Brutal stuff  :2thumbsup:

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#7 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 09:20:31 pm
Sick. Great effort!

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#8 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 09:28:46 pm
Amazing effort, looks savage. But am I right in taking from the comments above that it starts from a ladder? Is that a thing? If so I'm assuming it makes sense but it's a bit odd and isn't mentioned on insta.
Do any other problems or routes start off a ladder?

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#9 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 10:36:50 pm
Off The Ladder!

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#10 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 10:40:59 pm
Seems totally legit to me. What else would you do, sack off the project until a storm washes up a load of pebbles? I'm sure the puritans on the sit start thread who insisted short people should walk away from problems rather than stack the minimum pads needed to reach the start holds will be choking on their false teeth right now.

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#11 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 27, 2022, 11:12:26 pm
Amazing effort, looks savage. But am I right in taking from the comments above that it starts from a ladder? Is that a thing? If so I'm assuming it makes sense but it's a bit odd and isn't mentioned on insta.
Do any other problems or routes start off a ladder?

A few problems at Craig y Longridge start using a ladder (e.g Bend of the Rainbow).  Excavation below the crag revealed a load of new sit starts but the pre-existing stand starts then either needed a jump or a ladder.

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#12 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 06:37:29 am
I'm not questioning legitimacy, more trying to understand what's happening. A ladder isn't a regular part of my bouldering kit!
So the start holds can sometimes be reached from the ground when the beach level is high? And when its too low you reach them from a ladder? Seems fair, but probably worth mentioning before the Internet fills with pedants like me wondering what he's up to.

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#13 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 07:33:28 am

So the start holds can sometimes be reached from the ground when the beach level is high? And when its too low you reach them from a ladder?

Yes. Understandable, can be up to a metre difference. I also thought in Pete W's recent Kraken photos the beach seemed  higher than when Tom R did it.

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#14 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 08:54:28 am
The beach is high(ish) at the moment. It's been higher in there but yes it was lower when Tom did the Kraken. I guess if James had had enough pads he'd have just stacked them to start, or built a wobbly tower of pebbles! It's a pretty obvious starting point and I reckon any form of starting in that same place is legit, get a leg up from your spotter, if you have one :lol:

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#15 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 09:12:35 am
Seems totally legit to me. What else would you do, sack off the project until a storm washes up a load of pebbles? I'm sure the puritans on the sit start thread who insisted short people should walk away from problems rather than stack the minimum pads needed to reach the start holds will be choking on their false teeth right now.

  ;) Yep lost my false teeth watching that one. I think its an exemplar of a pure pursuit of difficulty within a bouldering context. However I have often tried to explain bouldering to non bouldering people and have usually resorted to arguments along the lines of aesthetics, a notion of a 'stripped down' type of climbing, free from artifice and low on equipment etc, specific and movement based. The little vid is either a kind of abstracted pure essence of climbing or heading off down the trail of mixed climbing, speed climbing, dry tooling, Himalayan mountaineering, ski touring and all the other genres I can't fathom out at all :( . After a second coffee I'll go with my first impression.

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#16 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 09:16:28 am
I think the pure pursuit of difficulty within a bouldering context is pretty cool myself. Maybe a layman couldn't appreciate how hard or impressive it is, but a layman can't appreciate how very, truly hard snatching 180 and cleaning 205 in a comp is for example, that doesn't make it any less so

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#17 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 09:17:53 am
It's a pretty obvious starting point
Guess that's the key bit. Plus opportunities to extend the start backwards!

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#18 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 09:41:14 am
I think pretty much all worthwhile sports become unfathomable to the layman as the internal logic of the pursuit eventually shapes progress away from a simple narrative starting point. Who'd want to do something so dull that a layman can grasp the finer details?

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#19 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 09:46:57 am
I think pretty much all worthwhile sports become unfathomable to the layman as the internal logic of the pursuit eventually shapes progress away from a simple narrative starting point. Who'd want to do something so dull that a layman can grasp the finer details?

I would think being able to explain the broader narrative might be possible for most human pursuits, I wasn't talking about the 'finer details'.

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#20 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 10:20:24 am
"Short climbs with pads instead of ropes" pretty much covers the broad narrative. Beyond that you're getting into the realms of finer detail and divergent motivations/subdisciplines I guess. I'm just thinking aloud really, not trying to critique your position.

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#21 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 10:21:57 am
"Short climbs with send train bellends instead of ropes"
:agree: :yes:

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#22 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 11:07:01 am
Climbers' capabilities to reason have been refined by the subtle disputes of ethics; so that even they become pernickety and regard trifles as important.

(I am, of course, paraphrasing Nietzsche, the greatest copywriter of all time.)

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#23 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 11:12:32 am
Climbers' capabilities to reason have been refined by the subtle disputes of ethics; so that even they become pernickety and regard trifles as important.

(I am, of course, paraphrasing Nietzsche, the greatest copywriter of all time.)

For Nietzsche active nihilism was the capacity to instill value, for to project meaning is the prime expression of the will to power, the sole underlying motive force of the world.

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#24 Re: Paradise found 8C - James Squire
June 28, 2022, 11:22:19 am
There's nothing Nietzsche couldn't teach 'ya 'bout the raising of the wrist.

 

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