[jwi]

I always put money in the collection box in the climber's bar, or similar, when I climb somewhere. If not I buy the last edition of the guidebook if the proceeds goes towards bolting. I would not if I thought that the money would go towards fixed draws. They have no place in climbing, except sometimes a single one if it's impossible to clean the route without.

[Ged]

Couldn't agree more. I wa really shocked in the states at how common they are. Ranging from old normal draws which are sharp and dangerous, through to fixed stainless cable draws which are just downright ugly. And on crags which weren't even steep. Those 40 metre face routes at Smith rock. Just no need.

[Hyomin]

Yeah I have to agree with this. Its nice that they are doing it, but at the end of the day they are the people who will principally benefit from the re-equipping of the routes. Asking for money from the public isn`t a great look when only 0.0001% of climbers worldwide will actually benefit. Considering some of the people doing the re-equipping are also sponsored athletes who I presume will then start projecting their routes once the bolts are back in, is pretty amusing. They should really pay out of their own pocket if they want to re-bolt the routes, or ask their sponsors for some money. The whole "Oliana is s special to the climbing world" argument is also lost on me. Most climbers will never go there or try any of the routes. I also doubt most climbers have even heard of Oliana, and I genuinely think this is the case given so many climbers these days never set foot outside a bouldering gym (my faith in climbers having a general grasp of famous crag names is low). I just find it amusing when pro-climbers throw themselves a pity party and expect everyone else to take part.

[jwi]

Update. (Distorting facts spoken at the bar)

I recently spoke with a local climber who has been rebolting and cleaning quite a few routes in Oliana. The news are mostly good. Patxi's initial assessment turned out ot be mostly correct so far. Most of the routes in the central and left parts of the crag are completely or mostly unchanged after brushing. T1 full equipe and Mishi has changed quite a bit and are both clearly harder now. The routes on the left wall are either gone or a bit harder. There are a few new routes there following more natural lines after the changes in the rock.

A major drawback is that all vegetation at the base of the crag is gone and that the crag is even hotter, a lot hotter in fact, in the sun.