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Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022 (Read 4182 times)

duncan

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Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 19, 2022, 07:31:20 pm
Not so powerful club...

M - Rest day, family stuff.
T - Craig Stirling with Wil. A new crag to me and worth a visit. It's a decent small granite sea cliff with an east coast rainshadow climate. Led Depth Charge and Electric Blue (E1s), followed Omnivore (E2). Wil tried Greedy Pig (E4), which was a bit too hairy in several senses of the word.  As we only had four cams remaining after his attempt we escaped via an Electric Blue/Electric Chair (E1) composite. The harder and less frequented routes here seem to need a brush before attempts.
W - Train back to London. Walked 10km.
T - Walked 10km.
F - Westway - ‘Aerobic power’: ~2 mins on / ~2 mins off x8. Frog squats, single leg squats.
S - Westway - ‘Aerobic capacity’: ~8 mins on / ~8 mins off x4.
S - Walked 10km. Frog squats, single leg squats.



Easy week recovering from Ceuse. Had booked a couple of extra days in Scotland after the family reunion hoping we could head for Glencoe or Ben Nevis. The weather wasn't cooperating this time but it's always good to explore a new area. Craig Stirling is a great spot for birdwatching too: saw two puffins fighting it out for about 20 minutes continuously. Looked brutal and exhausting. The object of the fight hung around until one of them was driven off. I hope she was impressed, I certainly was.

Thumb is improving, so I should be able to restart the shoulder conditioning fairly soon. Breathlessness is also a bit better so will ramp up the training. Interesting to try single-leg squats for the first time in several months. I’ve completely got out of the habit of doing these and a full squat feels way off at the moment.

James Malloch

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#1 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 19, 2022, 10:15:06 pm
M. Stopped in Arco for the night. Wandered around the shops, chilled a lot.

T. Had the day at the beach on Lake Garda. Pretty cold for swimming but lovely day for just chilling/reading a book. Drove to Brixen in the evening. Met some nice locals at a bar. Nice place.

W. Drove to Frankenjura and met up with a friend.

T. Maximillians Wand. Did a 6a+, 6b+ and a really hard Wolfgang 6c. Also tried Chasing the Train (7c). Felt like a massive sandbag. Hard climbing with lots of tweaky holds. Didn’t have a second go.

F. Day chilling and swimming and then went to Ankatalwand in the evening. Flashed a 7a (Computerspiel) which felt very easy. Though apparently many think it’s harshly graded. Then dropped the last move of a 7b onsight (New Dimensions - another Wolfgang route). Just threw for the wrong hold. Would have been my first of the grade and it felt pretty relaxed until I fell off. Went for a redpoint by headtorch but fell at the same place.

S. Went back and got got New Dimensions putting the draws in. Felt smooth climbing it. Finished with a 6b+ and then went for a swim. Went to the Petzl Kletter Festival festival. Had a good dance until 2am - first time at live music for ages!

S. Rest day by the river. Unfortunately it’s too cold to really stay in so it’s just a quick dip every now and then. Really hot today with forecasts of 36 degrees.

Really enjoying the style at Ankatalwand. Going back tomorrow as Zora was going really well on the 7a. It’s vertical climbing on small but positive crimps but a lot of it is getting the right feet to move between holds. Bother routes have had a bulge to finish but I’m finding I’m not at all tired by the time I’ve got there. Going to try one of the 7c there tomorrow, or maybe a harder one depending on how I’m feeling. Last day before a few weeks of visiting family so hopefully it will be a big day.

Got bit by a horse/deer fly on Friday too. My foot is still hugely swollen! Bastard! Trip to the Pharmacy might be in order tomorrow…

Aussiegav

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#2 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 06:42:48 am
Thanks Duncan & James for sharing your best lives. Very envious. Can’t wait to read the Frankenjura stories.

Rehab Club

Monday -

Following the 2days on, 1day off schedule. Feet on Campusing yesterday, density hangs today.
Fingers didn’t feel strong on the left side today.
Did 20min cryotherapy on my left hand after. Water & ice in a bucket. First 5mins was so painful.

Tuesday
3 weeks post op today.

Awesome Walls to do some routes. See how the knee & finger went. I taped up my finger before climbing.
I did a 5a back to back as a warm up. Then Onsighted a 6a+ which felt reasonably comfortable.
Next route was a 6a+ on the Shield Wall that I’d done before. My foot slipped off a dual texture hold near the top but I managed to stay on. Onsight another 6a+ after that.
The next route looked finger friendly and I Onsighted that. So I’d done three 6a+. 
I stewed over trying something harder or sticking at the same grade. A 6b on big holds looked ok and I decided to give it a go. Managed to Onsight it, there were a couple moves where I wasn’t sure of my knee but it went ok.
Very pleased with the session, 6 routes in 2 hours with my first 6b Onsight at the wall this year.
Cryotherapy when it got home


Wednesday -
started doing low impact rides on the Peloton. Doing two a day, 5-10mins early morning before work & 30min at night. after each ride I do the rehab exercises.
Cryotherapy

Thursday -
Early 10min ride.
2pm start at work. Spent the morning doing tax return, what a headache. Then did a density hangs session before a visit to the dentist. Just did half crimp hangs due to time constraints.


Friday -

10min low impact ride & knee rehab before work.
Did a 40min low impact ride & rehab in the evening.
Did a density Hang session (single hand) at work. With 5kg weight and lattice edge whilst sitting.
Cryotherapy at home

Saturday -

Pre dawn session at the School
Still not feeling ready to boulder. Finger still tender, although better. Overall feeling a bit fragile and cumbersome.
Did feet on campus pulls. Did 10 sets.
Tried some moves on the Moonboard but don’t feel ready so I decided on doing feet on Campusing.
10of 1min on 1min off. Rest 10mins then 10 of 1min on 45s off.
Used the bench for my feet.

Conditioning

Australian pull ups on the rings 3×8
Bench Press
1set of 8 50kg
1sets of 4 75kg - Miscalculation on the weight. Should of been light to do 8 reps. 
3×8 65kg

Overhead press
1sets of 10 bar only
3 sets of 8 35kg

Pull ups 4min rests
4 body weight

3×8 body weight. stopped after 1 set. Finger was aching. Felt done.
Finished with knee rehab
Cryotherapy when I got home.

45min peloton ride at night. Knee felt good.


Sunday.
Went to Horseshoe around 5:30pm. Plan was to do a some routes on Fixed line.
I was offered belays by people who noticed I was on my own. So it was a real bonus. It really made my day.
Got a belay on a 6a+ called Blade Runner as a warm up.  It had a 6b on the left with the same finish. I sent up a self belay anchor as I forgot the screw gate to set up a fixed line.
I got half way up the 6b to the left on self belay but it was such hard work. I lowered off. Then these two climbers said I could join them.
They did lots a big high steps & rockovers. I was not sure how my finger & knee would go, so I opted for a top rope. Interestingly I didn’t have to do them & found the route easier than anticipated. I Flashed it on a top rope. Really great route. Best at the great I’ve done at Horseshoe.

Awesome few hours out the crag.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2022, 07:13:01 am by Aussiegav »

shark

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#3 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 09:50:11 am
Out in Briancon on family holiday with the Barkers. 30 degree+ temps.

M. First day out climbing. Warm up on the Wedge at the chalet. Decided on the west facing Paroi de la Grotte which is shaded till about 2pm and had fun steep pumpy routes on the right side. Scorching weather. Took a wrong turn on the approach and ended up trudging up loose scree. Did a couple of warm-up routes on the left then went on the super steep and sustained Vite Numeraire which would have been incredible at the guidebook grade of 6c+ which unfortunately it wasn’t. I took a couple of rests. Robin then flashed it with winging elbows then I redpointed it by the skin of my teeth.

T.

W. Earlier start. Decked out loudly on the flat of my back on the veranda when the feeble buckle of the adjustable strap which suspended my wedge broke whilst doing a speed pull. Ouch. No serious harm done though. Back for another spanking at the Grotte. Hot but a bit more overcast and slightly greasy. Warmed up on the extreme right which included an excellent 6b+ Superpatate which would make an outstanding E3 or 4. Then tried the super steep C’est Amusant 7a (more like 7a+). Came off at the third bolt misreading the move. Looking up I guessed this move might be the crux so lowered off and pulled the rope. My guess was right and I managed to lead clean to the top next go. Was pretty tired but decided I needed to push myself. By this point it was clear that climbing fast and slapping for what-might-be good holds worked well and quickly slapped my way up the excellent 30m Le Gros Lot 6c+ (more like 7a) which was coming into the sun.

T.

F. More Grotte both of us angling for an attempt at the classy looking Pire Empirique 7a+. Clear skies and a good breeze with excellent conditions. After a nice 6b I bottled going on Pire and decided to get a comfort tick instead and went on the ace looking and merely mildly overhanging A Bas Bush 7a. My day started to unravel when it turned out to be harder than expected and I came off midway pumped whilst slapping for a hold. Rob then went up Pire Empirique but ended up taking a rest near the top and was too tired for a redpoint so would have taken the draws out if I didn’t have a go. My go was much worse requiring three rests - but what a route! Predictably I had no beans left to redpoint A bas Bush (which by this point had come into the sun) and had a hard time bolt to bolting it to retrieve the draws.

S. Picturesque mountain walk with Sonia, Rachel and Poppy.

S. Much as we liked the Grotte felt we should look in on other crags and homed in on the Rocher de l’Hombre which was even closer to Briancon and described as having ‘very beautiful routes’ and was allegedly North facing 🤔. The approach description was misleading and we were misled. The crag was disappointing to look at when we found it and with some patches of sunshine must face NE. It is also over bolted - many poorly positioned.
Started on a traddy style 6b Monument which turned out to be very good and a full 30m. Then onto the well named Ducatti Melodie as you can hear an endless procession of motorbikes on the road below. For some reason I thought it was 7a and had real fight on it at the top. In fact it is 7a+ in the current guide which seemed fair though had formerly been graded 7b. Then went on Extazic Mysterious (guidebook 7a - formerly 7b - my grade low 7a+) which was a steep slab leading into an attractive narrow pink pillar. This was really good wall climbing between good rests and onsighted it without too much fuss. Nothing else looked compelling except a 7b+ a couple of routes to the left which would if I’d tried have required more rest days than we have left so we left.

Having a great time out here but only one climbing day left (tomorrow). It’s highlighted my lack of steep endurance fitness. Shame that the Grotte crag isn’t in the Peak as it would make great training for my upcoming trip to Red River Gorge in October.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2022, 09:58:37 am by shark »

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 10:00:50 am
Craig Stirling with Wil.

Could have stopped by for a brew. I can practically see it from my front window. I was WFH.

spidermonkey09

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#5 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 10:21:37 am
Simon, have you been to L'atelier? Theres an amazing 7a there, one of the best I''ve ever done, and the walk in is stunning.

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#6 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 10:22:38 am
Shame that the Grotte crag isn’t in the Peak as it would make great training for my upcoming trip to Red River Gorge in October.

There’s no excuse for arriving in Kentucky without the requisite fitness if you live near a climbing wall with a steep lead wall or circuit board though :jab: Now is the time to start.

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#7 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 10:29:49 am
Trad Bumbling Club.

As mentioned last week, NW trip turned into a different NW trip (North Wales...).

Not going to give a blow by blow account, but more a review on the success of the training.

Mon: Headed up to Scimitar Ridge. Led Chreon to warm up. Bit calf pumpy (been running less due to knee) but a good route and went fine. Si led "King Wad" which is E5 in the guide or E6 on UKC (never E6...). Had a great  time on second and managed the first half with barely any pump and the crux with a bit of margin - so the Aero endurance training has certainly paid off. Usually I'd be doing short spurts with lots of shaking out, but I just seemed to be able to keep trucking without ever getting much pump.

I then went for Killercranky. Got through the initial crux 6a/b moves by the skin of my teeth but then faffed a bit getting gear in and was suffering calf pump again...  Committed to the next hard section but was quite powered out in the back and shoulders. Stabbed into a fingerlock with the right hand but just slowly crept out of it until I was off. Ripped the top c3 000 cam (which should have been a good microwire...) and took a bit of a ride. Went back up with my highpoint still clipped (but below the ripped cam) and got it 2nd go. Slightly annoyed to have fluffed the sequence ((LH to the fingerlock was better) but I guess it good I fully committed and didn't just slump/back off.  Pump level was manageable but definitely felt at the top end of my powering-out core/back. Just need more miles and more punchy sport I think. Climbing fairly well.

[oh.....so that was a bit blow by blow  :lol: ]

Tues: Cloudy in the pass so went to Rhoscolyn. Light winds and very sunny, so a bit of a lazy day. The Sun was lovely!  I've rarely felt so secure on an E3. I f I were into soloing I think I could have soloed it. Was considering a DWS of Electric Blue, but the tide was low and it look more like a slab splat solo into a DWS. Si did it but I just went for a swim instead.

Wed: Did Far from the Madding Throng which was tough for E2!  Si had some goes on Pretty Girls Make Graves E6. I didn't fancy it. We had big gear with us so headed up for Fear of Infection as Yosemite training. It's described as an offwidth, but it's really 75% squeeze with an offwidth finish that's better climbed on the outside, especially when you're trying to make it look easy!  I actually did try to lead this but bailed after about 4m as I was overheating and had too much rack on. Pretty lame. Redeemed myself by tying in for a second go (on 2nd) just to see why I got stuck - basically I had too much rack and forgot to breath out when squeezing up!

Thur: Easy day on Cloggy, Shrike as a big social 5. Got to go back for the Axe!

Fri: The Skull. Mates had done it earlier in the week and raved. Neither of us we quite feeling like going for any more E5/6s, so a tough multipitch E4 sounded like the right choice for the last day. Was pretty tired after a windy night in the tent, but managed to get it all clean despite once again getting the dreaded calf pump on the last pitch. I'd forgotten my troos, so was climbing in shorts and tee-shirt. We were up in the clouds and it was breezy (really windy where exposed) but I was roasting!  The high humidity must have been the issue and I had to downclimb the final groove to a ledge, take my helmet off and just chill for 5 mins to get temps back to normal!  Great "adventure" route with some very exposed and tricky climbing. Great way to end the week and nice to feel close to the previous top of my game trad wise. Seems like I'm all set for the Bugs in August fitness/head/ability wise. So I just need to NOT GET INJURED!  Felt like quiet a low-volume week and never felt too tired/achey/run down. With a steady forecast we erred on stopping fresh rather than grinding ourselves into the ground.

Anyone else noticed the pub owners across from the campsite are dour-verging-on-actually-unpleasant?  The male owner/manager particularly.

@Simon, what happend on Pabbay?  Did you get whisked off early due to bad weather?
« Last Edit: June 20, 2022, 10:40:10 am by Fultonius »

shark

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#8 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 10:47:39 am
Simon, have you been to L'atelier? Theres an amazing 7a there, one of the best I''ve ever done, and the walk in is stunning.

No I haven’t. Just looked at guide and looks great and it’s North facing too. Don’t think Rob will be keen though with the A0 pitch to access it

shark

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#9 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 10:53:07 am

@Simon, what happend on Pabbay?  Did you get whisked off early due to bad weather?

Mingulay - yes the forecast bad weather meant the skipper wasn’t prepared to pick us up after the Tuesday evening so had to go back two days early but had already got 4 amazing days in so was relaxed about that.

Nice one getting the Skull done. It’s on my to-do list

shark

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#10 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 10:59:13 am
There’s no excuse for arriving in Kentucky without the requisite fitness if you live near a climbing wall with a steep lead wall or circuit board though :jab: Now is the time to start.

Would be nice to have a crag to train on instead but yes I’m resigned to 20/10’s and other intervals on the systems board and contriving linkups on the traversing section of Rubicon as preparation.

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#11 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 12:23:43 pm
T. Maximillians Wand. Did a 6a+, 6b+ and a really hard Wolfgang 6c. Also tried Chasing the Train (7c). Felt like a massive sandbag. Hard climbing with lots of tweaky holds. Didn’t have a second go.

F. Day chilling and swimming and then went to Ankatalwand in the evening. Flashed a 7a (Computerspiel) which felt very easy. Though apparently many think it’s harshly graded. Then dropped the last move of a 7b onsight (New Dimensions - another Wolfgang route). Just threw for the wrong hold. Would have been my first of the grade and it felt pretty relaxed until I fell off. Went for a redpoint by headtorch but fell at the same place.

S. Went back and got got New Dimensions putting the draws in. Felt smooth climbing it. Finished with a 6b+ and then went for a swim. Went to the Petzl Kletter Festival festival. Had a good dance until 2am - first time at live music for ages!

I never tried Chasin, but I heard a few people mutter that Hitchhike (which I did try) was either no harder or easier. Mind you, Hitchhike is probably more accessible in style, which could be part of it.

I found Computerspiele nails, and the guys we were with made New Dimensions look pretty hard too. Good effort.

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#12 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 12:27:32 pm
Power Club

Mon - boxing bag speed EMOM sets.
Tue - garage session 3.
Wed - bar work, ab wheel.
Thu - quick thruster session. Very short on time.
Fri - half TBDL. Farmer's.
Sat - pull ups, planks.
Sun - EMOM boxing bag.
Missing the board quite a lot. Unfeasible in mid 30s temps, even with fan and some A/C. Fingerboarding a little bit, highlight of the week being an off-the-couch 15" one arm hang on the BM central slot.

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#13 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 12:30:51 pm
Simon, have you been to L'atelier? Theres an amazing 7a there, one of the best I''ve ever done, and the walk in is stunning.

No I haven’t. Just looked at guide and looks great and it’s North facing too. Don’t think Rob will be keen though with the A0 pitch to access it

The A0 is easy, its a fixed rope attached to steel rungs. Extremely straightforward. I aided it with a few quickdraws then pulled the bags up but would have been comfortable doing it wth a rucksack on.

Duncan Disorderly

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#14 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 12:32:26 pm
Cold club...

M-T: Nowt
W: Shit @ The Sheaf Bloc... Couldn't pull for shite!
T: Spluttering @ Horseshit with the GF - Did a good 6a+ but was wasted afterwards...
F: Snowboarding @ Xscape - Good fun but still felt shite and got pretty bored after an hour or two (GF was doing a lesson)... Managed to land some nice big airs, tweak em and do a few rails etc... Did land on me head spinning 360's tho... Played dancehall and jungle to a bunch of folk til way too late for how I was feeling... Ace but not helping!
S-S: Nowt

This is taking the piss... Worried I'd got covid again but just seems to be an utter bastard of a cold that's refusing to bugger off.... Trying to ignore it isn't working so may actually try and rest - Blerggguuuuuugggg!!!!!  :shit:

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#15 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 01:02:49 pm
Power Club:

M. Evening shed session. 30 mins deliberating over where to screw on my new HardWoodHolds. Not much warmup, straight onto the board to give them a run. Got two new undercut edges which are brill, quite large and not tweaky but at 47degrees with shit feet you pull HARD!
T.
W.
T. Evening shed session. Warmed up properly and did 3 x max hangs. One arm on a 23mm edge, with 8kg on a pulley. Big improvement from previous effort. Felt like I could reduce the weight so had a go unassisted and voila = about 5s on right arm and 3s on left. Might go for something like 4 or 5kgs of assistance next time. Followed by a decent board session, repeated some fairly difficult problems despite the heat.
F.
S. DIY day.
S. Day out to Shrewsbury for some excellent Father's Day pizza.

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#16 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 01:44:23 pm
Power Club

Intense training continues. Rather than the board indoors I went out and pulled on a lot of limestone this week, but a similar stimulus for the body!

Monday - Anston for what was largely a rest day, basically wanted to have a look at Fine Art 7A+. Did a few moves, didn't try too hard, but I think it will go. Short little session.

Tuesday - Went to the Works, had a big indoor session as a confidence developer. Slowly it comes back! Did a load of the black circuit and tried really hard on some Murples. Felt good. Weighted pullups at 25kgs added for 5 reps, then 32kgs for reps (a PB!) then 25kgs for 5 reps. 3 sets of 8 V-pullups. Bench press up to 3 sets of 5 at 70kgs, OHP 3 sets of 5 at 40kgs

Wednesday - went to Frodo's Rock, ran laps on stuff up to 6C. Great session. Couple new problems on there to try as well which was cool.

Thursday - Fingerboarded, 35kgs on the 20mm edge for 10, 10, 10, 8, 8, 7. Bicep isolation curls with 20kgs for 3 sets of 5.

Friday - rested

Saturday - Frodos Rock again. Big goes on Nazgul 7B, getting very close! Lapped other stuff up to 6C. Great session, brilliant morning. Did 5 sets of 2 assisted one armers per arm, 10kgs taken off. Tried a 1 RM and can do a 1 armer with 6kgs taken off, also a PB. House party in the evening.

Sunday - against my better judgement went back with some friends to basically show them the buttress for the first time. Ended up repeating stuff up to 7A. An exhausted wreck by the end of the day! Decided to push my squat/dead/bench session on a day as just too tired.

Overall; probably overdid it a bit but felt very strong and confident this week, probably the best I've felt indoors since I got injured. Pleased with progress and keen to go out again soon!

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#17 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 20, 2022, 02:21:33 pm
M: G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW, +15lb, +30lb, +45lb, +55lb, +65lb, +70lb. Kilterboard 45deg 1V4, 1V5, 2V6, 3V7. Shoulder press 45lb, bicep curl 45lb, chest press 50lb X6 *3sets. Stairmaster 10 mins (9mins 8, 1 mins 10)

W: Vertical Endeavors Chicago. V hot at the wall. Mainly climbed on their board. Put a V5ish boulder then tweaked to V6 and sent then tweaked to V7 and sent. Really good fun! Smacked knee and skin sore so called it.

S: Upper Chaos, RMNP. First time up this season, still a lot of snow. Got lost trying to find Terrorism Arete. Nice high V7 arete that an early season snow landing makes safe. Seems it's still too early - didn't have a shovel to dig it out. Moved on to Skipper D boulder for my mates to try that. I worked Skipper G, a V9 line to the left. Thought it wasn't going to be great but the moves are so so good. Did all moves quickly and started making links. Ended session falling repeatedly at second (last crux) - basically almost doing boulder. Should go next session. Finished the day trying (again) a lowball V7 called Battlebug. A4 on LH middle made a not too friendly noise so called it a day. Feels all good

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#18 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 09:32:30 am
T. Maximillians Wand. Did a 6a+, 6b+ and a really hard Wolfgang 6c. Also tried Chasing the Train (7c). Felt like a massive sandbag. Hard climbing with lots of tweaky holds. Didn’t have a second go.

F. Day chilling and swimming and then went to Ankatalwand in the evening. Flashed a 7a (Computerspiel) which felt very easy. Though apparently many think it’s harshly graded. Then dropped the last move of a 7b onsight (New Dimensions - another Wolfgang route). Just threw for the wrong hold. Would have been my first of the grade and it felt pretty relaxed until I fell off. Went for a redpoint by headtorch but fell at the same place.

S. Went back and got got New Dimensions putting the draws in. Felt smooth climbing it. Finished with a 6b+ and then went for a swim. Went to the Petzl Kletter Festival festival. Had a good dance until 2am - first time at live music for ages!

I never tried Chasin, but I heard a few people mutter that Hitchhike (which I did try) was either no harder or easier. Mind you, Hitchhike is probably more accessible in style, which could be part of it.

I found Computerspiele nails, and the guys we were with made New Dimensions look pretty hard too. Good effort.

I did think about trying Hitchhike, but opted for a nails Wolfgang 6c instead.

Computerspiele and New Dimensions seemed like my perfect style. I think I used some whack beta on ND too (at the top). Way harder than it should have been and avoided all the better holds. Went wrong onsight but just stuck with the beta for RP.

Went back yesterday and did Internet (7c) too. Got it second go without any issues - thought it would be a fight as it was only my second route of the grade. Would be keen to try some of the 8a there but it’s our last morning today before 2 weeks visiting family.

I love that crag - style seems to be positive but small holds, and you really have to use your feet well. And every 3m you get a better hold to rest on.

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#19 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 09:38:16 am
After 10 weeks on the road we have 2 weeks visiting family so won’t be able to get outside. We might be able to squeeze some sessions in at the wall but will mainly have a hangboard available.

Any tips for keeping condition whilst having time off? Maybe a bit of strength work, and some repeaters to keep the endurance topped up?

We’ve climbed day-on-day off (on average) but never trying anything too hard, and some days are just 1-2 routes, so I’m not craving any rest at the moment. But maybe we could do with more rest?

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#20 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 10:44:31 am
I did think about trying Hitchhike, but opted for a nails Wolfgang 6c instead.

Computerspiele and New Dimensions seemed like my perfect style. I think I used some whack beta on ND too (at the top). Way harder than it should have been and avoided all the better holds. Went wrong onsight but just stuck with the beta for RP.

Went back yesterday and did Internet (7c) too. Got it second go without any issues - thought it would be a fight as it was only my second route of the grade. Would be keen to try some of the 8a there but it’s our last morning today before 2 weeks visiting family.

I love that crag - style seems to be positive but small holds, and you really have to use your feet well. And every 3m you get a better hold to rest on.

I'm there in the summer, so perhaps I should go back and give New Dimensions or similar another go. I was quite detrained by that point - month 8 of a van trip with little to no bouldering or other strength maintenance - I could feel that affecting some things but perhaps it skewed my strengths and weaknesses more than I had assumed.

If you're likely to be back there I do somewhere have my written down beta for Hitchhike which I could dig out if it would be any use. I've no idea how much sense it would make (even to me, 8 years after the fact!) but its a description of sorts for a set of beta that ought to work (I got through to near the end of the crux on my best redpoint, so it ought to be refined enough to do the job, if you see what I mean).

Which 6c?

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#21 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 11:19:57 am

We’ve climbed day-on-day off (on average) but never trying anything too hard, and some days are just 1-2 routes, so I’m not craving any rest at the moment. But maybe we could do with more rest?

If you've been day on day off but never anything hard, aren't you more likely to be detrained than fatigued? Maybe the best thing you could do would be to do a load of training during these two weeks rather than resting.

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#22 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 11:40:52 am
I'd be interested to hear other's thoughts on this - but when I know I'm going to have a longer period off I usually smash in a few hard days in a row. Obviously you need to be careful not to get injured, but it seems to me a good idea to have a massive last day working a hard route you might come back to.  Just be careful though, as it can be all that's required to tip you over the edge to an injury  :devangel:

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#23 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 11:57:50 am
I think this depends on lots of things, as ever, e.g.:
- what volume are you normally used to and how much have you been doing recently compared to that?
- what "life" stress do you normally have and how has that changed (e.g. are rest days lounging in the sun and sleeping or are they working and doing a big hike)?
- have you been getting pumped every climbing day for 10 weeks or dogging hard stuff?
- what do you tend to lose fastest, strength or fitness?
- how do you feel compared to when you left? what do you feel you're lacking for the routes you want to do in your remaining time?
etc...
It sounds like you've been doing lots of easyish stuff (i.e. quick ticks in a day or similar) so unless you're someone who happens to hold strength well and lose fitness easily I'd spend the 2 weeks doing pure strength/power... but then I lose strength/power fast so for me that would be my answer after 4 weeks away let alone 10!

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#24 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 12:00:02 pm
Goal: All limbs working

Tues: Garden workout with knockoff TRX rigged up to tree. Rows, presses, bicep curls and tricep extensions
Weds: MRI on poorly knee
Thurs: LSD after work. Bloody hot! 2 sets of deadhangs and a potter round some sub-V2 stuff I could reverse down
Sun: Father's Day walk round village via pub for a pint

Bit of a meh week - temperature, humidity and hay fever sapped by psych, and I ended up eating and drinking too much, and feeling generally grumpy most of the time. Knee was OK / manageable day-to-day, but had a couple of incidences of it "going".

Hope to hear back from specialist soon.

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#25 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 01:24:07 pm
M - 12 hr shift. Eve run, hilly, trail, glorious light, 7k, 38 min but that includes stopping to take loads of photos. Tiny bit of knee rehab but it felt tired after the run so stopped after one set. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
T - 8 hr shift. TCA eve, 90 min trying blues (7A - 7C) only did one, but failing on hard moves is how you get better right?
W - 12 hr shift. Knee bit tender. DOMS in calves
T - knee still tender. TCA afternoon, more trying blues. Managed 2, good to be trying hard. Knee tender. Knee rehab in eve.
F - Portland, arrived about 2 and straight down to Coastguard South. Warmed up on one of the 6a's on Xavier's wall area, then got the clips in Tennessee (7c). Would have been nice to have another warm up but tide window was already closing. Did moves ok, couple of hard ones but the main issue for me is the steepness. Only time for one RP, did everything pretty much as planned but not enough beans for the first hard move. Tide then stopped play, but tbh it's a fitness issue so not really much chance missed. Amazing route though, really steep for Portland and great climbing, keen to come back fitter. Swim and braai in eve
S - Hidden Valley, easy day planned, 5, 4+, 6b+, 6b. Then failed to do the crux move of a 7b+ (Stoning of St Stephen) so tried the neighboring 7a+ Mono y Mono missed a decent hold on the OS, but did moves ok, then a shower stopped the RP. Hung around for 20 minutes for it to pass, but gave up in the end. Obviously it stopped once we'd packed up, but couldn't be bothered to go back.
S - drive home. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Knee rehab.

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 169 min

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#26 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 01:51:17 pm

@Simon, what happend on Pabbay?  Did you get whisked off early due to bad weather?

Mingulay - yes the forecast bad weather meant the skipper wasn’t prepared to pick us up after the Tuesday evening so had to go back two days early but had already got 4 amazing days in so was relaxed about that.

Nice one getting the Skull done. It’s on my to-do list

Aye, get on the skull now while your trad psyche is there. Basically all tech and nouse rather than PE or anything modern like that haha!

Seems that the new skipper (son of old skipper) is much more trigger happy with the exit plan! We noticed this last time we were there. He came 2 days early and said "times up". Seems like once he has your cash he just wants you off on the easiest day. The old boy would come it in all but the worst days.

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#27 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 01:52:21 pm

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#28 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 02:26:56 pm
Tennessee (7c)… Amazing route though, really steep for Portland and great climbing, keen to come back fitter. Swim and braai in eve

It’s brilliant isn’t it, would love to get back on it. Felt nails for 7c to me, already feels like a 7c to get to the jug before the top rockover and then that rockover is hardly easy!

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#29 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 21, 2022, 02:38:00 pm
Yeah so good! Glad others thought it was tough, I assumed it was just that it doesn't suit me. Yup I was a bit shocked by that move onto the headwall, assumed it would be over at the jug...

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#30 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 22, 2022, 10:23:35 am
I did think about trying Hitchhike, but opted for a nails Wolfgang 6c instead.

Computerspiele and New Dimensions seemed like my perfect style. I think I used some whack beta on ND too (at the top). Way harder than it should have been and avoided all the better holds. Went wrong onsight but just stuck with the beta for RP.

Went back yesterday and did Internet (7c) too. Got it second go without any issues - thought it would be a fight as it was only my second route of the grade. Would be keen to try some of the 8a there but it’s our last morning today before 2 weeks visiting family.

I love that crag - style seems to be positive but small holds, and you really have to use your feet well. And every 3m you get a better hold to rest on.

I'm there in the summer, so perhaps I should go back and give New Dimensions or similar another go. I was quite detrained by that point - month 8 of a van trip with little to no bouldering or other strength maintenance - I could feel that affecting some things but perhaps it skewed my strengths and weaknesses more than I had assumed.

If you're likely to be back there I do somewhere have my written down beta for Hitchhike which I could dig out if it would be any use. I've no idea how much sense it would make (even to me, 8 years after the fact!) but its a description of sorts for a set of beta that ought to work (I got through to near the end of the crux on my best redpoint, so it ought to be refined enough to do the job, if you see what I mean).

Which 6c?

The 6c was just behind chasing the train. Called Auerbacher Weg. It’s basically a Boulder problem start on little pockets and then a really easy romp to the top. Nearly got it onsight and then failed miserably for ages trying to get to the second bolt again before it just worked one time.

I think ND is a weird one. Some guy cruised it yesterday before falling at the top. And then couldn’t get past the 2nd bolt on the rest of his attempts. The style seems quite unpredictable. Similar to CS, the pre-crux sections seemed okay enough to not need to work out beta, but it means that you can easily mess them up!

I don’t think I’ll be back on Hitchhiker, but thanks! Someone was saying about a broken hold too which may have changed things a bit. I get kicked out of the EU soon too so only a few climbing days left ☹️

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#31 Re: Power Club 649 13-19 June 2022
June 22, 2022, 10:49:05 am
I'd be interested to hear other's thoughts on this - but when I know I'm going to have a longer period off I usually smash in a few hard days in a row. Obviously you need to be careful not to get injured, but it seems to me a good idea to have a massive last day working a hard route you might come back to.  Just be careful though, as it can be all that's required to tip you over the edge to an injury  :devangel:

I did this yesterday by getting on my first 8a. Lots of minging crimping on a vertical wall. Haven’t pulled that hard for a long time, and avoided injury. Shame it felt so hard - though it was in the full sun!


We’ve climbed day-on-day off (on average) but never trying anything too hard, and some days are just 1-2 routes, so I’m not craving any rest at the moment. But maybe we could do with more rest?

If you've been day on day off but never anything hard, aren't you more likely to be detrained than fatigued? Maybe the best thing you could do would be to do a load of training during these two weeks rather than resting.

Yeah I think we will try to do some strength work and maybe some power (I see shark mentioning Speed Pulls on here - maybe that on our fingerboard…). Definitely not feeling that fatigued.

I think this depends on lots of things, as ever, e.g.:
- what volume are you normally used to and how much have you been doing recently compared to that?
- what "life" stress do you normally have and how has that changed (e.g. are rest days lounging in the sun and sleeping or are they working and doing a big hike)?
- have you been getting pumped every climbing day for 10 weeks or dogging hard stuff?
- what do you tend to lose fastest, strength or fitness?
- how do you feel compared to when you left? what do you feel you're lacking for the routes you want to do in your remaining time?
etc...
It sounds like you've been doing lots of easyish stuff (i.e. quick ticks in a day or similar) so unless you're someone who happens to hold strength well and lose fitness easily I'd spend the 2 weeks doing pure strength/power... but then I lose strength/power fast so for me that would be my answer after 4 weeks away let alone 10!

Not used to much volume, but our days aren’t huge ones. Definitely used to this volume now though.

No life stress for the first time in ages. Lots of lounging around.

I’ve barely got pumped on this trip. Not for a while anyway. Seemed to have found a nice (but maybe not that beneficial) median of routes that challenge me, but not so much that I’m having to fight to stay on.

The main thing I noticed was that when bouldering the other week I felt weak so I think you’re right that strength/power is likely to be the best bet. I’ve definitely built up a load of fitness which I didn’t have before.

I think that the main think I’ve built us is just being comfortable falling. I think that improves your efficiency so much and is the main reason why my onsight grade is increasing, more so than just pure fitness. Just feeling way more relaxed whilst climbing.

 

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