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Topic split - James Pearson’s “flash attempt” of Lexicon (Read 18048 times)

mrjonathanr

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It’s also historical, Haydn. I grew up with the term ‘flash’ simply meaning success on the first go, but not onsight because of prior knowledge. Nothing wrong with redefining something, but that’s my ‘curiously definitive’ view (to Alex’s mind).

That hardly addresses the grey areas though. Should it be ground up? Abseil past ok, but not fondling the holds? The term originates in a pre-video era, where most info would have been word of mouth- hidden pocket, filed-down RP2 etc so today’s avalanche of info was not a factor to take into account.

Today’s wads need to reach a consensus on what’s cricket and agree which terms correspond.

highrepute

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Do they have same set of terms with similar definitions in other languages? French, Spanish etc?
I imagine where you've not got the extensive trad ethics things might be defined differently?

I really like what James has done here. Feels like he's been sticking his neck out and going where no one else dares for a couple of decades now and no one is yet to catch up. I'm thinking E12, muy calianti flash, that weird film with Gaz parry, this. It's ground breaking stuff and that is really impressive not just for the act itself but because he's the first to do these things. It's great for climbing. Even if he gets it setting sometimes. Although, hopefully it doesn't attract anyone new to the sport  :-\

I really like what he's done but I don't think I'd have called it's flash. But I can imagine his approach preserved that feeling of the flash. Which is an approach I'm down with.

JamieG

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I've always thought about the style of the ascent in a hierarchy. Onsight > Flash > Ground-up > Head-point > Top-rope, with each an improvement of the style of the one below. So for a flash to improve on a ground-up ascent, you wouldn't be allowed to abseil inspect, since this would obviously not be possible for ground-up.

abarro81

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Do they have same set of terms with similar definitions in other languages? French, Spanish etc? .

The French and Spanish climbers I know would use onsight and flash as per most Brits. I've never asked about abbing things but I'd be surprised if they thought it was legit for a flash

Bradders

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I've always thought about the style of the ascent in a hierarchy. Onsight > Flash > Ground-up > Head-point > Top-rope, with each an improvement of the style of the one below. So for a flash to improve on a ground-up ascent, you wouldn't be allowed to abseil inspect, since this would obviously not be possible for ground-up.

That's the first time anyone's offered an explanation of this way of thinking that makes sense! Thanks.

 

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