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Knees stuck in offwidths (Read 1781 times)

jwi

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Knees stuck in offwidths
June 16, 2022, 09:14:55 pm
I am sure many climbers have stories about getting the leg stuck in an offwidth. I was "stuck" some 30 min in one in Indian Creek, where water on soft sandstone always work. Another time, I made very very slow progress on a squeeze chimney on granite that me and mate put up (after having untied and removed the harness I did the last 25 cm in about one and a half hour).

This, however takes the price as worst incident of stuck leg I have heard of:

https://www-klatterforbundet-se.translate.goog/2022/06/16/oskar-satt-fast-mer-an-sex-timmar-raddades-av-stenhuggande-brandman/?_x_tr_sl=sv&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp

(Google translate from Swedish to English seems legible to me).

webbo

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#1 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 16, 2022, 09:28:11 pm
I always thought Martin Boysens epic on the Trango Tower sounded pretty scary.

remus

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#2 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 16, 2022, 09:38:46 pm
We can't have a thread about getting stuck in offwidths without this classic making an appearance.


Teaboy

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#3 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 16, 2022, 09:55:22 pm
That’s the one I immediately thought of!

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 16, 2022, 10:02:03 pm
I've watched that too many times, and still think it's fucking hilarious.

Worth watching if you think you had a bad day climbing.


cheque

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#5 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 16, 2022, 10:33:24 pm
I once got my knee stuck in a route at Burbage South called Drainpipe. It’s not what you’d call an offwidth route as such but it’s got a section where you can get a no-hands rest by wedging your knee in.

I was wearing these fairly loose-fitting cords which were the reason that my knee got stuck. To make matters worse I was soloing, there was no-one else at the crag and it was starting to go dark. I was there for about 15 minutes or so before I realised that if I got the other foot up on a hold next to it and stood up with a bit more force than felt sensible, it would just pop out and sure enough it did.

I think of it as a perfect example of how good a soloing head I used to have- I rarely felt properly scared when soloing, even when in real fixes. Just always had faith that if the route was in my abilities (and Drainpipe is far from a difficult route) I’d get up or down eventually and I always did. I wish I could have that confidence back  :'( .

More recently my mate got his leg stuck towards the bottom of a route called Tower Crack at the same crag and had to do some sort of aiding on a big cam to get it out. Naturally I thought it was hilarious but then went up myself and got my leg just as stuck  :lol: What a pair of absolute punters.

spidermonkey09

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#6 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 17, 2022, 08:47:53 am
When I was at Arapiles in 2016, I got stuck in Mr Chicken, the horizontal offwidth/squeeze chimney that runs behind watchtower craxl and watchtower chimney. Essentially there's a massive pillar of rock that leans against the rest of the crag and this chimney goes behind the pillar where there's an opening. It narrows quite quickly so you can't fall to your death but it's a pretty spooky place as it's pitch dark.

It started off OK, with me following my offwidth expert friend Anna and another friend following behind me. However about halfway I started to feel my hips getting stuck. I wriggled a bit, adjusted my position and unfortunately at the very moment i was facing straight down into the blackness my hips came loose and I dropped about 2 feet into a notch, like a key turning in a lock! I knew I was definitely stuck after 30 seconds wriggling and called for help. Alex and Anna started to assist with no luck. By this point I was starting to panic despite my best efforts! Eventually after probably only 15 minutes but what felt like hours Alex (who was a big strong guy) put a massive effort in and pulled me out by my foot! We returned to the campsite chastened, where upon arrival another friend, Jeremy, who we had left cooking dinner, took one look at my ashen face and said "what the fuck happened?!"

SamT

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#7 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 17, 2022, 09:16:40 am

Mountain rescue were called out to Millstone a couple of years ago to rescue someone who'd got stuck on Crewcut after the self rescue cooking oil hadn't worked  :lol:.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=3588122454549809&id=114061288622627&_rdr

petejh

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#8 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 17, 2022, 10:07:32 am
Not a knee and not an offwidth, but around 20 years ago my climbing partner got his hand stuck in the crack near the top of Zambesi, a straightforward VS on the now-banned Dali's Hole on the slate. Ended up having to tie off his rope to a boulder at the base, walk around to the top with another rope and put him on belay from above for support while he spent the next 45 minutes (what must have felt like hours) getting increasingly concerned that he couldn't free his hand. Just as I was going to leave him and head down to the village for some cooking oil and/or the MR he managed to wriggle his hand free.

Duncan campbell

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#9 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 17, 2022, 03:38:41 pm
Brings a whole new meaning to the phrase “a hand jam is as good as a belay”!!!

PeteHukb

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#10 Re: Knees stuck in offwidths
June 17, 2022, 09:40:13 pm
I got my knee stuck in Elder Crack for about ten minutes once. Long enough to start panicking a bit. Managed to get it out with a bit of flesh lost but retained the onsight.

 

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