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Topic split: indisputable solid 8C+ problems in Europe (Read 2734 times)

jwi

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What even are the indisputable solid 8C+ problems in Europe? Off the Wagon Sit? Soudain Seul? Ephyra? No Kpote Only?

SA Chris

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https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-boulder-problems

Nice list here, not sure which are "indisputable".

jwi

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repeated a few times, no suggestions of 8C from repeaters

Will Hunt

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No Kpote Only got downgraded when it turned out that the floor is in and you're allowed to do it in two halves.

Moo

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I think no kpote would suit either will or aiden down to the ground, it looks like one of the most repeatable boulders Iíve seen with a big grade attached.

remus

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What even are the indisputable solid 8C+ problems in Europe? Off the Wagon Sit? Soudain Seul? Ephyra? No Kpote Only?

Some talk of holds having improved a little on Off the Wagon sit, don't think anyone's really gone in with the big downgrade yet though. Gets plenty of repeats (relatively) and most seem to agree 8C+.

Soudain seems solid at 8C+ or harder. Currently 2 votes for 9A and one for 8C+.

Ephyra has 2 votes for soft 8C+ and one abstain.

Think No Kpote Only has suggestions of 9A, 8C+ and 8C so depends who you believe.

Charles Albert's La Rťvolutionnaire seems to have settled at 8C+ (from the low start, think it was always 8C from the slightly higher start Charles first did it from).

Simon Lorenzi's Big conviction seems likely to be 8C+, though no repeats so far.

Poison the Well has had suggestions of 8C+ and soft 8C+.

Burden of Dreams seems pretty safe at something >=8C+ given the number of capable people who have tried it.

Bradders

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Can't believe Gioia hasn't been mentioned, although I think a kneebar was found which maybe brings it down a tad.

REM on the Dreamtime boulder established by Giuliano Cameroni. Unrepeated I think.

There's also Brutal Rider and Terranova in Czech. I'm sure Bosi said he tried Terranova on his trip there but determined it was too hard.

Plus Shawn Raboutou's new problems.

Plenty to go at.

Worth remembering as well, in this social media affected era, that he's not just turning up and doing these things. Aidan mentioned on his and Sam Prior's podcast that Will had tried Outliers before at least once, so yes he's walked up plenty of things but is putting time into others before doing them.

remus

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Can't believe Gioia hasn't been mentioned, although I think a kneebar was found which maybe brings it down a tad.

From memory, a load of the American wads tried it and found various tricks (inc. the knee) and thought it was probably 8C. Having said that I don't think it ended up getting repeated by any of them as there was hooha about crumbly footholds and Christian Core gluing it back together.

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REM on the Dreamtime boulder established by Giuliano Cameroni. Unrepeated I think.

Repeated by Paul Robinson who suggested a downgrade to 8B+.

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There's also Brutal Rider and Terranova in Czech. I'm sure Bosi said he tried Terranova on his trip there but determined it was too hard.

There's also Ledoborec. I reckon these are super hard, but they seem to get very little traffic (not sure any of Ondra's 8C+ have had a repeat?) so didnt seem the best choice if the aim was to find a solid 8C+ to go and try.

Bradders

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Good knowledge Remus!

owensum

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Can't believe Gioia hasn't been mentioned, although I think a kneebar was found which maybe brings it down a tad.

From memory, a load of the American wads tried it and found various tricks (inc. the knee) and thought it was probably 8C. Having said that I don't think it ended up getting repeated by any of them as there was hooha about crumbly footholds and Christian Core gluing it back together.


The "hooha" was that Core went to the boulder the day after the kneebar was found and glued over the footholds so it couldn't be used. After that no one was interested in the problem AFAIK and it seems to have dropped off the radar.

Will Hunt

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Wow! What a fucking baby.

remus

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This is what Christian said about it at the time. Sounds like it'd be right at home in the peak.

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After Daniel Woods and Dave Graham's attempts at sending Gioia, today I fixed the new foothold which resulted from the accidental breaking off of a piece of rock in a section of the boulder that had never been used before - section 2 of Gioia.

Now the line is back to its original state, exactly as it was when I first climbed it and when Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival did their repetitions.

The original footholds are always the same; the new one was frail and would have easily broken again. I never use purpose made glue to fix these kind of issues, it's not a practice I like.

However, due to its aknowledged importance, Gioia deserved to be restored to its original line so that it could be again equal to every climber who has tried it in the past and will try it in the future.

source: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2yu9kn/comment/cpdi71x/

Wellsy

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That seems fairly reasonable tbh

owensum

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This is what Christian said about it at the time. Sounds like it'd be right at home in the peak.

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However, due to its aknowledged importance, Gioia deserved to be restored to its original line so that it could be again equal to every climber who has tried it in the past and will try it in the future.

source: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2yu9kn/comment/cpdi71x/

Trouble is, he didn't restore it to its original state. Evidently, there used to be a small foothold that was usable for kneebarring, and this was deliberately removed.

Liamhutch89

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That seems fairly reasonable tbh

I couldn't disagree more on this one!

He must have really wanted to keep his big grade for bad beta.

remus

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Trouble is, he didn't restore it to its original state. Evidently, there used to be a small foothold that was usable for kneebarring, and this was deliberately removed.

Fair enough. I don't know any more about it than has been posted online.

A very minor clarification on your original post: it's had a couple of ascents since the glue job, one from Nico Ceria in 2020 and one from Elias Iagnemma in 2021.

owensum

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Fair enough. I don't know any more about it than has been posted online.

A very minor clarification on your original post: it's had a couple of ascents since the glue job, one from Nico Ceria in 2020 and one from Elias Iagnemma in 2021.

Sure, I was more responding to the comment than you Remus! That's interesting, did not know. Assuming they did not think 8C+?

Wellsy

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That seems fairly reasonable tbh

I couldn't disagree more on this one!

He must have really wanted to keep his big grade for bad beta.

If the foothold and solution existed before I would agree, but if it wasn't doable that way until a breakage, which is how I read what he said, then I think it's fair for him to fix it to preserve the problem.

sdm

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This is what Christian said about it at the time. Sounds like it'd be right at home in the peak.

Quote

However, due to its aknowledged importance, Gioia deserved to be restored to its original line so that it could be again equal to every climber who has tried it in the past and will try it in the future.

source: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2yu9kn/comment/cpdi71x/

Trouble is, he didn't restore it to its original state. Evidently, there used to be a small foothold that was usable for kneebarring, and this was deliberately removed.

IIRC, he was aware of the kneebar foothold prior to the FA.

But he assessed that section of rock as obvious choss that would break repeatedly if anyone stood on it. So he thought it was obvious that the choss was out.

He also thought that any future ascentionists would come to the same conclusion so there was no need to clean the rock and get rid of the choss.

Does sound a lot like UK lime/sandstone.

remus

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...it's had a couple of ascents since the glue job, one from Nico Ceria in 2020 and one from Elias Iagnemma in 2021.

That's interesting, did not know. Assuming they did not think 8C+?

Nico didn't offer a grade as far as Im aware. Elias used the kneebar (so sounds like it still goes like that, don't know if there's any change in difficulty with that method since the break and repair) and suggested 8C/+ (from his 8a.nu account).

CrimpyMcCrimpface

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Somewhat OT but a new contender from Dave Graham.. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cey5A2EDtid/

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Euclase [8C+] FA ⚔️ On April 20th I finished off my last project of the season in Ticino, accomplishing one of the hardest lines I have climbed to date 🙌🏻 I found the line in 2005 and dabbled around on it for many seasons, but never even remotely found the requisite solutions to climb all the moves, until I returned to Bavona this past winter and started delving in deep. The problem looks simple; thereís many holds, most are quite decent, yet all have a strange orientation in relation with each other, and the feet are never in a useful position in relation to the handholds. I spent around 10 sessions to climb all the moves, and another 10 repairing my transitions. Its a labyrinth of grips and structures, all perfectly sculpted on immaculate rock. With 19 hand movements, 21 foot moves, and 4 kneebars, its a game of connecting body positions. Itís one of the most technical climbs I have ever encountered and challenged my ability to toe-hook, heel-hook, knee-bar, and footwork like unlike any other boulder that Iíve tried in my life. The top-out adds a crimpy and dangerous no-fall-zone to the equation, completing the line with a real mental factor. After sending all my other projects it was the last one standing. Around my 30th session I fell off the last move unexpectedly with amazing conditions amidst the strange heat waves, devestated, I thought I missed my opportunity for the year. The boulder seeps, so rain is a real enemy, and with a savage storm looming on the horizon and a super deep cut on my index from repeated efforts on the 3 finger pocket in the crux section, I felt like statistically I had a very small chance to send. Iíve never felt like my whole experience as a climber culminated in one moment, but the day I sent this climb is maybe the closest example. I had one window with the weather, and one try with my cut. Somehow, I started at the bottom, and despite my internal uncertainty, executed the entire sequence, and summited the intense highball at the finish 😎 I would describe it as my pure style, and unless I missed something huge, Iím confident with the grade proposition, especially in comparison to everything Iíve climbed in the past 💎

Pure psyche

Wellsy

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Dave Graham is the fucking man. What a great bit of climbing!

 

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