What even are the indisputable solid 8C+ problems in Europe? Off the Wagon Sit? Soudain Seul? Ephyra? No Kpote Only?
Can't believe Gioia hasn't been mentioned, although I think a kneebar was found which maybe brings it down a tad.
REM on the Dreamtime boulder established by Giuliano Cameroni. Unrepeated I think.
There's also Brutal Rider and Terranova in Czech. I'm sure Bosi said he tried Terranova on his trip there but determined it was too hard.
Quote from: Bradders on June 14, 2022, 07:17:33 amCan't believe Gioia hasn't been mentioned, although I think a kneebar was found which maybe brings it down a tad. From memory, a load of the American wads tried it and found various tricks (inc. the knee) and thought it was probably 8C. Having said that I don't think it ended up getting repeated by any of them as there was hooha about crumbly footholds and Christian Core gluing it back together.
After Daniel Woods and Dave Graham's attempts at sending Gioia, today I fixed the new foothold which resulted from the accidental breaking off of a piece of rock in a section of the boulder that had never been used before - section 2 of Gioia.Now the line is back to its original state, exactly as it was when I first climbed it and when Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival did their repetitions.The original footholds are always the same; the new one was frail and would have easily broken again. I never use purpose made glue to fix these kind of issues, it's not a practice I like.However, due to its aknowledged importance, Gioia deserved to be restored to its original line so that it could be again equal to every climber who has tried it in the past and will try it in the future.
This is what Christian said about it at the time. Sounds like it'd be right at home in the peak.QuoteHowever, due to its aknowledged importance, Gioia deserved to be restored to its original line so that it could be again equal to every climber who has tried it in the past and will try it in the future.source: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2yu9kn/comment/cpdi71x/
However, due to its aknowledged importance, Gioia deserved to be restored to its original line so that it could be again equal to every climber who has tried it in the past and will try it in the future.
That seems fairly reasonable tbh
Trouble is, he didn't restore it to its original state. Evidently, there used to be a small foothold that was usable for kneebarring, and this was deliberately removed.
Fair enough. I don't know any more about it than has been posted online.A very minor clarification on your original post: it's had a couple of ascents since the glue job, one from Nico Ceria in 2020 and one from Elias Iagnemma in 2021.
Quote from: Wellsy on June 14, 2022, 04:42:46 pmThat seems fairly reasonable tbhI couldn't disagree more on this one!He must have really wanted to keep his big grade for bad beta.
Quote from: remus on June 14, 2022, 04:08:28 pmThis is what Christian said about it at the time. Sounds like it'd be right at home in the peak.QuoteHowever, due to its aknowledged importance, Gioia deserved to be restored to its original line so that it could be again equal to every climber who has tried it in the past and will try it in the future.source: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2yu9kn/comment/cpdi71x/Trouble is, he didn't restore it to its original state. Evidently, there used to be a small foothold that was usable for kneebarring, and this was deliberately removed.
Quote from: remus on June 14, 2022, 05:02:59 pm...it's had a couple of ascents since the glue job, one from Nico Ceria in 2020 and one from Elias Iagnemma in 2021.That's interesting, did not know. Assuming they did not think 8C+?
...it's had a couple of ascents since the glue job, one from Nico Ceria in 2020 and one from Elias Iagnemma in 2021.
Euclase [8C+] FA ⚔️ On April 20th I finished off my last project of the season in Ticino, accomplishing one of the hardest lines I have climbed to date 🙌🏻 I found the line in 2005 and dabbled around on it for many seasons, but never even remotely found the requisite solutions to climb all the moves, until I returned to Bavona this past winter and started delving in deep. The problem looks simple; there’s many holds, most are quite decent, yet all have a strange orientation in relation with each other, and the feet are never in a useful position in relation to the handholds. I spent around 10 sessions to climb all the moves, and another 10 repairing my transitions. Its a labyrinth of grips and structures, all perfectly sculpted on immaculate rock. With 19 hand movements, 21 foot moves, and 4 kneebars, its a game of connecting body positions. It’s one of the most technical climbs I have ever encountered and challenged my ability to toe-hook, heel-hook, knee-bar, and footwork like unlike any other boulder that I’ve tried in my life. The top-out adds a crimpy and dangerous no-fall-zone to the equation, completing the line with a real mental factor. After sending all my other projects it was the last one standing. Around my 30th session I fell off the last move unexpectedly with amazing conditions amidst the strange heat waves, devestated, I thought I missed my opportunity for the year. The boulder seeps, so rain is a real enemy, and with a savage storm looming on the horizon and a super deep cut on my index from repeated efforts on the 3 finger pocket in the crux section, I felt like statistically I had a very small chance to send. I’ve never felt like my whole experience as a climber culminated in one moment, but the day I sent this climb is maybe the closest example. I had one window with the weather, and one try with my cut. Somehow, I started at the bottom, and despite my internal uncertainty, executed the entire sequence, and summited the intense highball at the finish 😎 I would describe it as my pure style, and unless I missed something huge, I’m confident with the grade proposition, especially in comparison to everything I’ve climbed in the past 💎